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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    oh yea another note i hardly drive with the fog lights on. Only if it is actually foggy, snowy, or rainy (pretty much any bad weather)
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Merry christams everyone

    matthew
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Yea... a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all!

    Hope you all find that new truck in your driveway in the morning!!!

    PF Flyer
    Host
    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Merry Christmas to everyone (I know i am a little late)

    Hope everyone had a good holiday. I know mine was very nice
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    Hope you guys and your Rado's are doing fine!
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    thanks, but from a new owner of a jag(even if it is owned by that 4 letter word company), there is only relished hope for all pre avalanched rado owners.........LOL
  • ftpftp Member Posts: 16
    Any input on the type of vent visors which hold up the best? I prefer the look of the channel mounted but don't know if the cause problems with the window or if the don't stay set properly.
    I have a 2003 1500HD Crew.
    Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    channel mounted is german designed. No problems after three years.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Ventvisor tape mount still intact after 3 1/2 years of northeast winters. The key is make sure the surface is clean before mounting, the 3M double sided tape is plenty stong. Never tried channel mounts so can't say much about them.

    Ray T.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    I hear ya on that one!
  • volfan4volfan4 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 99 silverado ls ext cab z71 that has developed a terrible squeak under the dash on the drivers side i have looked up underneath with truck moving at slow speed to duplicate it i can hear it but i cant exactly pinpoint it anyone please help!!!!!!!!!
  • interrapidinterrapid Member Posts: 2
    I would like to find a new GMC 2500 crew cab short bed 6.0 and the dealers in St. Louis have NONE. One dealer said he did a search and found almost no trucks that even come close to my needs. I went to the Chevy lots and there are a few but I did not care for the grill as it looks like someone pulled the trucks pants up to far! Does any one know why these trucks are hard to find? What is the difference between the HD and the standard truck. If I order one will there be any problems? Seems like a popular truck but supply is slim. Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    why dont you just order one? it doesnt cost anything extra plus you get every option you want nothing less nothing more and no one takes it out for a test drive
  • kcflyerkcflyer Member Posts: 78
    NO shortage of CC's in Oklahoma. One dealer in Norman had over 40 on his lot last week. Unless you are looking for something unusual maybe you should drive south and look around. As far as ordering goes....I ordered a 4WD 2500 CC with quadrasteer (nobody had one within 1000 miles) back in the first week in November. I'm told it will be delivered by the first week in February. It was on hold during the month of December I'm told because GM over committed to the number of units they could deliver by years end. I suspect your order would take far less time now.
  • interrapidinterrapid Member Posts: 2
    Thanks kcflyer, couple of questions. Are you refering to GMC's? Dealer here said he would sell/order for invoice price but of course had none on the lot but had 40 ext. cabs. Wierd. Is invoice price the standard deal now? How much do they want for quad steer? When that first came out I thought it was $5000. Thanks!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Happy new year guys!!!
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    Happy new year!
  • kcflyerkcflyer Member Posts: 78
    I ordered the truck for invoice. Quadrasteer adds about $1700 to the invoice price. Yes, It is a GMC. I would have ordered a chevy but every time I see the new front end I don't know weather to laugh or be ill. The Aztec lives on!
    P.S. -- the deal was contingent on the $2500 rebate being subtracted from the invoice price. I walk if the rebate goes away by delivery.
  • tp4unctp4unc Member Posts: 437
    Deer season just ended here. 100k on the Tindra and she's still kickin'. See ya again in a year or two. Hope all is well.

    Hello to Quadrunner, too.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    "channel mounted is german designed. No problems after three years."

    No problems here either...

    WeatherTech is the name.

    I have them on my '00 Silverado K1500, Ext Cab, front only, the wife's '01 Suburban K2500HD front and rear, our '03 Tahoe C1500 front and rear, and my son's '99 GMC Subruban front and rear. Love them, but on the expensive side.
    Do not need them on the wife's '03 Corvette AE Convertible or my '04 Z06 CE. LOL
  • hknoepflehknoepfle Member Posts: 45
    I have a 2000 2500 Silverado with the trailer package and heavy duty option. I have purchased a travel trailer and am wondering if I need to put a electric brake controller on the truck or if the trailer plug that came with the truck provide the electric signal to actuate the brakes?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    See my posted answer on the "Chevy Silverado" board.
  • gvoigtgvoigt Member Posts: 63
    I have them on my '00 Sierra and love them. They offer a cleaner look than those which you 'stick on'. Don't know what I would do with out them, they really earn their keep, in summer lets the heat escape and winter the moisture build up from melting snow and water from passengers feet. I don't have foggy windows ever! IMO they are the cats meow.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    I didn't like them. Too much wind noise. I left them on the Wife's Explorer 'cause I don't drive it much, but took them off my Sierra.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I know you have some exhaust experience and was wondering your thoughts on the following:

    Magnaflow
    99-02 4.3L V6, 4.8L/5.3L V8, Extended Cab, Short Bed,
    5x11x22" Muffler, 3" Tubing, Side Exit, 4" Tip
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    When I bought the PV system, it came with a magnaflow muffler as the inventor hadn't developed a muffler at that time. Being that he's an exhaust specialist, it says something that he chose Magnaflow. It has served well over the years with no complaints. Nice rumble at idle not loud like the corsa on the denali. Sounds good at WOT too. You will get a little resonance from it though as I have. If you have a bed cover it will enhance the resonance a little too like a drum...hehe.

    Course everyone has a tolerance level when it comes to resonance. What's resonance for one doesn't bother the next. If you want loud I'd suggest the Corsa. One thing for sure is stay away from Gibson and Flowmaster.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    noise doesnt bother me. Did you lose any low end? Should i go with the cat back or just the muffler?
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    About staying away from Flowmaster...why??? I have one on my truck (01 5.3L). I got the one that dosent scream all the time, only on the throttle, at cruising its only slightly louder than stock. i LOVE it on my truck. Then again, thats my opinion. Only a cat back into 3" dual stainless tips. Nice set up.
  • peekamoosepeekamoose Member Posts: 7
    I bought an '04 Sierra 1500 about a month ago. Was wondering if anyone on this board has installed a sliding rear window in theirs. GM's is about $300...the Tri-Vent from Laurence is $100 less. Would it be a mistake to go that way?
    Thanks
  • shiftlessshiftless Member Posts: 40
    The C. R. Laurence sliding rear windows is in my opinion a very high quality. I purchased a Model: ECT8995 as a replacement for a defective factory slider on a 2K Sierra Regular Cab. It looks great, seals well and works very smoothly. It was installed in April 2000.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Ryan,
    Look into the Borla Cat Back also, it cost around $500 back in 2000 when purchased, I had the exhaust system before the truck was even delivered. I installed mine the first week I got the truck, took just over an hour to do. It has a mellow sound at idle and impressive sound @ WOT, and not obtrusive at highway speeds. Iv'e noticed no loss of power at all. I opted for the split side exit rather then rear exit.

    Peekamoose,
    I also went with the C.R. Laurence slider on my 2000 Rado X-cab. I had ordered the factory slider but do to quality issues GM had stopped installing their brand do to breakage problems and the C.R. came highly recommended for aftermarket and quality. I believe it cost around $300 for the C.R.
    No regrets on that choice.

    Ray T.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    was what I experienced with the Gibsons along with resonation. Loud is one thing. Resonance is like driving with a continuous buzz. Not nice at all.

    From what I understand, doing the muffler is fine cause you don't gain much with the mandrel bends in everyday driving unless you drive at high rpms all the time.

    Course if you really want to remove the restriction in the exhaust system, gutting the cats will gain you more flow that any catback system. That's where the true restriction lies. That's not to bad for me cause we don't have emission testing here. Not sure about where you are.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    There's tons of information on this over at the Av Site. "Magnaflow vs FM", "FM 50 vs FM 70". Many Av Owners swear by the Magnaflow. Choice of our resident Muffler expert is the FM 70 w/o resonator. Can use stock pipes or the single in dual out but no more than 2 1/4" for exhaust pipes. Personally, I had the FM 50 with no resonator on my '99 X-Cab and thought too much resonance so switched to 70 w/o resonator. Nice but a little too quiet at the rear. On my '01 I went with the FM 50 and a resonator. Quiet inside and a little more noise out the back. As Oby says what some see as quiet some can't stand. There's quite a few running 40's....ouch!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Guys I remember reading about some people who have data (temp, speed, etc) for their intakes. I forget offhand which computer program does this but I am thinking of doing some research on how to improved the intake design.

    Does anyone have any data for their stock intake? Please let me know
    Thanks!!!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    does it. The data generated by the sensors can be recorded through the autotap software. Before I commit to doing this how would the data be of help unless you're comparing stock vs. FIPK or something? Especially since I would have to find and reinstall the stock box.
  • bowtieman1bowtieman1 Member Posts: 38
    I posted this about 6 weeks ago and need some advise. I have a 03 Z71, LT Ext cab. We have lots of snow and Ice in NE ohio and I use the auto4wd alot. Typically when auto trac is engaged and there is any wheel slippage the 2 to 4 wd is instant, seamless and other than a driveline hum not noticable. On my current truck the rears slip for about 1.5 seconds before the front wheels engage sometimes with a clunk that will shake the truck if I am into the throttle. I took it to the dealer and they say there is nothing to adjust to help this. My 00 did not do this at all. Anyone have any advise? Ryan- I know you have similar weather in Indiana? Any thoughts? Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I dont expect you to put the stock box back in. I am sure that would be a PITA. I was wondering if anyne had the numbers handy. How much is the autotap software?

    Basically (short version) I am wanting to model the air flow with the stock box then make design changes to the tube/box and see what kind of results I will get. How you ask? Using CFD (computational fluid dynamics) software. I can model anything but I would like some real data to compare to my calculation data. Its a project for my cfd class.

    4wd- I havent had anything like that happen to my truck. The autotrac engages immediately. It almost sounds like something isnt catching. Maybe a front diff problem (gears?). A guy at work recently had his front diff fixed (00 gmc) ill ask him about it tomorrow
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    My 2001 Silverado 1500 ext-cab is due for an oil change at 33k miles. My question is about the 30k mile major service my dealership offers for the whopping sum of $600. It includes alot of inspections, oil change, tire rotation, replace fuel filter, air filter passenger comp., replace auto trans fluid, cooling system pressure test and lot of lubrication. The dealership also offers a minor scheduled maintenance that includes alot of whats offered in the major service for $99. What is necessary at 30k? The air filter and fuel filter are mentioned in the manual at 30k and seem to be the only things not offered in the $99 service.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Get the mini treatment and also do the gas filter. Trans fluid isn't due until 50k by manf. specs in your manual, the dealers just trying to gouge you on unnecessary work. Air filter has it's own reminder system that you can tell when change is needed, there is no set mileage for that. In cab filter should be done but like a few of us other posters I still have the original on my 00 Rado, just not high on list of necessary things to do. Now if you have allergies that's a different story.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I've never seen anyone post that kind of data that you're looking for. The only one that came close was one at Pacific Audio where the guy measured the air temperature at the intake in trying to decide how to route his ram air. I'll hookup the autotap and see exactly what kind of data is retrievable. Course this will be with the FIPK installed.

    For info on the autotap software check out:

    http://www.autotap.com/products.html
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    see what you can get with the FIPK

    id like air temp entering the system and as it goes into the engine.
  • peekamoosepeekamoose Member Posts: 7
    The snowplow prep package specs on a 2004 Sierra 1500 lists a '...1.65" (42mm) access hole with grommet in front of dash panel for mounting snow plow controls'. I've been looking but I can't find it. I need to route some wiring from inside the cab to the front bumper area. Any help?
    Thanks
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Hello all, I finally took delivery of my Chevy 2500HD, LS, SWB, 6.0, auto, 4x4 and Eaton Locker.

    I hope to have any better service than my previous Dodges. lol...
  • hknoepflehknoepfle Member Posts: 45
    I am looking at the pigtail for the electric brake controller that I received with my pick up and attached to it is a large fuse. I know where the pigtail plugs in but where does the fuse go??
  • stef7stef7 Member Posts: 22
    My 1999 4.8 is getting harder to start since a couple of weeks. There is no problem starting when cold or very hot, but when I try to crank it up after 5, 10 or 30 minutes, it's taking a while to do so, maybe 6 to 8 seconds, and then it's runing rough also for a few secs.

    From what I've been reading in the Helm manual, this could be caused by the MAF, the ECT or the IAT.

    If I have a dirty MAF sensor, I'm wondering if it could be cleaned and what is the procedure to do so. Any ideas would be welcome.

    Thanks
    Stef
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    Took my truck in for service yesterday and after talking with the service writer I decided to get the following services, oil change, check fluids, check brakes, rotate tires, brake fluid flush and fluid exchange, automatic transmission flush and fluid exchange, replace fuel filter, replace air filter, total $425. The guy told me that he is not supposed to write up a 30k service this way, he is expected to sell the complete package at $600 plus. When I questioned him on the necessity of some of the procedures and the cost of the major service he told me that if we break it down and pick a la carte the price is much better for basically the same services. This was probably the last service I will have done there however, since price and convenience will take me elsewhere. The reason for using the dealer for service up till now has to do with building a relationship with the service department in case of any warranty related problems. There have been a few but with only 2500 miles left on the warranty I'm probably done with the dealer.
  • jrkracejrkrace Member Posts: 32
    Hi All,Just wondering how everyone with Duramaxes were doing with this cold EAST Coast weather. As I type it is 6 degrees F. outside and snow is on the way. What I am after is the differences between the two engines in terms of snow plowing, heating up in the winter, ease of starting in the winter,etc. I know that the Duramax is more powerful, but the drivability issues are what I am after. Thanks and sorry for the length....Any input would be great.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Look under the hood at the "electrical center" on the drivers side wheelwell, liftoff the cover and using the diagram find "stud 1" for the location of the 40 amp fuse for trailering purposes.

    Ray T.
  • texsuntexsun Member Posts: 23
    Well, it's been a month since I installed the Tornado and though ya'll say it can't be so, 2500 miles later, I am averaging 17.5 MPG hi-way vs 15.5 and 15 MPG in and around town vs 13-14 MPG pre-Tornado. Not a big difference, 1.5 to 2 MPG improvement per tank of gas, but I'll take it. No hiccups or coughing, just a smooth operator. Seems to have a smoother take-off from stop, but that's probably the perception thing ya'll spoke of. No increase in performance, but I wasn't looking for it. The K&N FIPK gave me enough. At $42.00, it should pay for itself in a few more months at the current price of gas. And there ya go, no matter where you're at!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I have a 96 x-cab dually with 7.4L and auto tranny. Truck came new with HD cooling system. I am having issues with the engine heating up and tranny following suit, under heavy loads. (ie towing up hill.) I thought this problem was just seasonal last summer towing my boat at 100 degrees. But I noticed truck heating up again last weekend on the way to the ski resort. I have replaced the thermostat, thinking it may not be opening fully, this did not fix the problem. Anyone out there with any ideas? I don't want to go through the summer worrying about this.
    As with post 3839, my truck is also somewhat difficult to start. When cold it fires right up, but any other time I have to crank it for a few secs and/or step on the gas.
    Thanks all for any input.
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