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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout



  • andrzejandrzej Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GMC SIERRA 1/2 ton 4x4 with an electronic tranfer case. When i put it into 4x4 the the car is making "boom" noise, and when try to accelerate a little harder there is this metal to metal grinding. Similar to a chain slipping out of gears. I don't know if it is the chain or not. Give me some insight on what the problem could be and if there is some kind of website out there that has a good step by step procedure to rebuild the transfer case. Thanks in advance!!
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I agree - if your gauge shows bad readings - it is broken and needs to be fixed -

    Like I said - the gauge is designed to hold steady when the truck is in gear so the reading does not jump all over every time you hit a bump or turn a corner or go up or down a hill. But for some reason the gauge will move if the truck is not in gear. Every time I back out of my driveway (which is down a hill) and shift from reverse to drive my gauge changes - but by the time I drive 2 blocks to the corner it is reading correctly again.

    My gauge is fine - but

    I know that in normal driving (for me)I will need about 23 gallons of gas somewhere between 325 and 350 miles - I reset the trip odometer at every fill up - If I go 350 miles and my gauge is not at 1/4 of a tank or less I would pull into a gas station and fill up anyway.
  • bjlbjl Posts: 7
    Does anyone have any ideas what would be wrong with my truck stereo? I got in my truck and the radio station seemed like it was off the air- no static, just dead. So I tried changing channels, playing cd's- still no sound. It seems to be operating correct other than no sound. It's like as if you hit "mute". I have checked my owners manual and came up empty. Any ideas?


  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    There is a service bulletin on this. I took my truck into the dealer and they did a reprogram. I haven't had the problem since.

  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    This doesn't sound like the same TSB but it should get you in the door.

    Radio - Erratic or Intermittent Operation

    File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

    Bulletin No.: 01-08-44-014

    Date: November, 2001


    Erratic or Intermittent Operation of Radio

    2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette
    2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Silverado, Sierra,
    Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali)
    2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Pickup and Utility Models
    (S10, Sonoma, Blazer, TrailBlazer, Jimmy, Envoy)
    2002 Chevrolet and GMC M/L Vans
    2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
    with RPO ULO, UNO OR UL9

    The following intermittent conditions may occur with the entertainment system:

    ^ The radio turns off by itself.
    ^ The radio's audio cuts out.
    ^ The radio can't be turned off.
    ^ The radio functions/features are erratic.
    Important : The above conditions are INTERMITTENT symptoms and may be difficult to duplicate. The customer reporting any of these concerns should be justified in exchanging the unit as these symptoms may never result in a permanent failure.

    Radios that exhibit the conditions above should be returned to an ACDelco(R) Service Center for exchange.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    02-08-44-020B MAR 03 Audio System - No Audio From Speakers At Times.
  • bjlbjl Posts: 7
    Thanks for the input on my audio trouble. I will be calling my dealer in the morning. One of these TSB's has to be my problem. I just had this truck in there last week! My only issues were "service 4wd" on my display. Second time for this one. Also one of my keyless fops died- they replaced and reprogrammed. Wonder if all these problems are some what related? All involving computer reprogramming. Just a thought. I will report back.

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    "Wonder if all these problems are some what related?"

    Common denominator being that it's made by the General.
  • bjlbjl Posts: 7
    Good news radio works this morning. Bad news something else is haywire. Truck struggled to start. Something funky! Waiting for my dealer to open.

  • madjakmadjak Posts: 1
    I am shopping for a late 90's model Chevy or GMC truck. I have heard that a letter or number in the VIN tells which rear end gear it has. Does
    anyone have any info on this or know how to identify the gear ratio in a used vehicle?


  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    There is an underhood decal that lists all the option codes installed on the vehicle. Just find out the option code for the rear end you are looking for and cross reference it with the decal. To the best of my knowledge, the VIN # does not include this info.
    PS. Some model years put this decal in the glove box.
  • bjlbjl Posts: 7
    02-08-44-020B MAR 03 Audio System - No Audio From Speakers At Times.

    This is what it said on my repair summary. Like psg mentioned. The rough start was not found, but it only did it that one time. I my have made that happen. Sunday I was jockeying the truck about in my garage to get at the fuses. A lot of starting-moving the vehicle, turning off, starting...
    Hopefully my problems are solved.


  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    my Kenwood system works just fine...........what TSB are you guys talking about.............LOL
  • gearhedgearhed Posts: 26
    I had the aluminum wheels rotated on my 2003 Silverado in December. I asked the dealer to grease the screw threads before putting the wheels back on. The service manager refused and said they don't do that anymore as a safety issue.
       Three months later, I get a flat tire. Five nuts came off using a whole lot of force, but one nut unscrewed about three turns and then locked up solid. I sprayed WD-40 oil all over it, waited a few minutes, and it still wouldn't come off with a two foot breaker bar on it. So I had to take a truck with less than 9k miles on it back to the dealer to change a flat. Anybody else hear about garages who refuse to grease the wheel threads as a safety policy?
       I feel that if I get a flat out in the middle of nowhere and can't get a wheel off, why bother to include a spare tire?

  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    I think the proper thing that is put on the threads is called "anti-seize". I think what happened is your wheels were put on with a air wrench and over torqued. Factory specs for my aluminum wheels is 130 foot pounds. Most air wrenches are usually set for over 200. This is what causes a lot of warped rotors too! I don't let the dealer touch my wheels. I rotate them myself and use a torque wrench to meet specs. I also have the anti seize on the threads. It is not a lubricant and does not affect torque settings.......
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    I do the same thing on all wheel studs and have NO problems ever removing the lug nuts, the service manager was blowing smoke up your butt telling you it's a "safety issue", antiseize has no effect on proper torquing of lugnuts. Overtorquing also stretches the threads on the studs which can also cause them to stop turning after just a few turns when removing. Worse case scenerio is you either strip the threads or snap off the studs. INSIST on torque wrench usage whenever dealer or service company reinstalls a wheel. 200 psi on an air gun is going to give more torque then needed and will do damage to rotors as well as studs as stated by Iowabigguy.

    I had this happen on a Subaru when new tires were installed at Mavis Tire, they overtorqued and I could not remove nuts when I went to do disc pads a month later, they had to replace 5 studs on 2 different wheels because of overtorquing and stretching the threads.

    Ray T.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    On several different vehicles after having new tires put on, I have ended up breaking the studs after the nut locked up after a few turns. This can be a real PITA on 4x4s if you have to pull the hub in order to get new wheel studs in place.
  • obriendmobriendm Posts: 7
    I was checking the oil today in my 1997 GMC Sierra 4x4 (126,000 mi with the 5.7L) when I noticed there was almost no coolant in the reservior. Sure enough, underneath the truck there was some orange coolant fluid. Does anyone know if the intake manifold gasket problem that has been reported with the 3.1/3.4L V6's also affects the 5.7L V8?
  • gmhellmangmhellman Posts: 121
    I have checked the TSBs that I could find and none of them stated that there were any coolant leaks listed in a TSB for the 5.7L. I would beleive that due to the mileage and the age of the engine that the hoses or seals might be cracked/leaking. I hope that the fix is cheap and easy for you.
  • gearhedgearhed Posts: 26
    14 city, 18 highway

    2003 Ext cab, 1/2 ton, 4wd,
    4.8 vortec, auto trans,
    3.73 rear, autotrac
  • hunter33hunter33 Posts: 6
    I have 2003 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3 extended cab.could someone tell me if this is normal or not every time you take off from a stop with med. acceleration you here a clunk and when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd it will clunk it's not the Ujoints its like to much backlash in the gears I took it to the dealership there saying its normal. I have read some post on clunking and there saying its in the Transmission my noise is in the rear end?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Do you feel a small clunk when you stop?

    Then a second clunk when you take off?

    If so the problem is binding at the point where the drive shaft goes into the tranny. Removing the drive shaft and using a special spline lubricant on this point solves the problem.
  • pathy58pathy58 Posts: 15
    I had this happen a long time ago and it was a spider gear in the rear end. It was only cracked and then split. That's when dealer admitted it was a spider gear.
  • 2001 extended cab
    No warrenty left !
    Power mirrors,locks window,
    Problem Window will not work I can hear the motor, but window does not go down.
    Is this something easy to fix, or should I get it to the dealer ?
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    Could be a busted window regulator, have to open up the door panel to find out. Might also have bent tracks. I think the window regulator is sold only with the motor, so it'll cost you a couple of hundred in parts. The tracks are cheaper, maybe $25. I'd recommend a good mechanic using GM parts.
  • I recently purchased an 02 Silverado 1500HD 6.0 litre and love it. The truck has a full cap on it and I would like to be able to lock it up tight.I carry a lot of equipment and tools in it for my job.
    The existing lock is on the cap only and seens to be pretty badly corroded and it is not very secure.
    If anyone knows of a solid fix to this problem please let me know.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Are you looking for a lock for your cover, or for your tailgate?
  • Well it is a busted window regulator !!!!!
    $220.00 in parts + labor =
    $518.00 Plus TAX am I getting screwed ?? or is this the price of owning a chevy ???
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    parts price looks about right, I think labor would be, at most, 2.0 hours. A faster tech could probably do it in less time.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    For that kind of money I could get the parts, the full five volume Service Manual, a set of tools and do it myself. But then, I'm the adventurous sort.

    stansharp: I'm wondering the same as bigfur.
     You used to be able to get a power tailgate lock at R&D Truck & Auto Accessories,
    but apparently not anymore.

This discussion has been closed.