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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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Comments

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Lift rental?

    I dont even need to jack up my truck to change the oil

    FILTER 9.99? DAMNNNNNNN i paid 50 cents each for my AC Delco's (which is recommended by gm)
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    i'm with you on the filters, remeber when kyle and i both used the Mobil filter? both of us reported the lower oil pressure readings. may not be serious, but why take a chance, especially when you throw 10 bucks down the drain for an oil filter.
  • gmcdude61gmcdude61 Posts: 2
    Bought a new GMC 2500HD 2WD. Got it home, noticed front drivers side was drooping. Had to crank in 4 complete turns into the driver's side torsion bar.
    Is this something to be concerned about or is this normal?
    Thanks for any info...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Maybe i am wrong but i thought they were only on 4wd trucks
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    I like using a lift because it makes it sooo much easier. I can also inspect the entire underside of the truck that way. Wait til you're a little older, grasshopper!

    My oil pressure has always been the same...60 lbs while driving, a little over 40 lbs at idle. I have yet to see a PF-59 here in town. PF-58s are available, but I understand there is a difference. I'm sure the dealer has a PF-59, but it wouldn't be much cheaper than the Mobil 1. As much as my truck cost, I'll not squabble about the price of the Mobil 1.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    image

    (1) Sturdy 1" wrench nut makes removal quick and easy.
    (2) Drilled safety wire holes for racing.
    (3) Metal leaf spring provides a positive seal between element and lid.
    (4) Heavy-Duty construction provides over 550 PSI hydrostatic burst strength.
    (5) Resin-impregnated filter media provides maximum filtering surface for contaminant removal.
    (6) Inner core provides extra structural support to prevent filter collapse.
    (7) Anti-drainback valve eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown.
    (8) Rolled threads provide extra protection against stripping.
    (9) Leak-Proof double roll stream.
    (10) Internally lubricated gasket provides seal while allowing easy on and off of filter.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Posts: 1,000
    like i said, it's probably not a big deal, but to me, the higher you keep it(considering all items fed by oil) the better. with the pf-59 mine stays at 50psi. at idle and 65-70 at 40mph and above. when i tried the mobil filter it ran around 40 at idle, and 50-55 at normal speeds. tells me that the filter may be a little restrictive. not woth 10 bucks to use for only 5,000 miles anyway. i'd like to try the K&N like you are using Oby, but they aren't readily available here.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    For 2002 the C3 does indeed become the Sierra Denali and will offer "Quadrasteer". This 4 wheel steering system reduces the turning radius by 9.9 ft. I read this in the "GMC Directions" latest edition.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    on three things.

    1-There were no PF 59 around.

    2-Like that nut shape on the bottom for easy removal

    3-Due to its cost, its always available at Checkers...people tend to by that el cheapo fram.

    Course on the Denali, I run the cheapest oil filter which is Fram and regular dino...Chevron brand 10W-30 from Costco....$9.99 a case of 12. One of the advantages of leasing I guess.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    That one had a long screw that went through the filter and went into the bottom of the engine. Must be tje retro look? :):)
  • valkyvalky Posts: 21
    Anyone thinking of buying a Bully Tailgate lock, please reconsider. This is a cheap crappy item.
    The locking mechanism is easy defeated and the bezel is cast wrong, can pull it out with one finger nail, not tight at all. The manufacturer stated that when the bezel is installed it is there to stay, what a joke. I threw mine in the garbage. I'll consider this a $26 lesson. Does anybody know of a quality tailgate lock? Is the power tailgate lock worth the price? Thanks.

    Conrad
  • ndancendance Posts: 323
    Oddly enough, there is somebody on the Silverado Problems discussion with the same issue. Perhaps you could compare notes.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    It's the same person.
  • valkyvalky Posts: 21
    It's my evil twin. He's always shadowing me.
  • truckchictruckchic Posts: 105
    Hey, anyone with a 2001 GMC experiencing rusting on their bumpers? I know I mentioned this before but I don't think it was in this forumn. I had this problem and had trouble convincing the dealer about this, but somewhere in between my talk with them and my call a few weeks later to make an appointment, they said they ordered me new bumpers from a new supplier with a new sealer on them. I just checked with the dealer yesterday and they are going to see if they came in yet. But, they don't think they released these 'new' bumpers yet.

    Anyone else have this issue?

    Truckchic
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    would this be on the back side of them? Is it actually rust or is it like a brownish film?
  • truckchictruckchic Posts: 105
    It's on the front of the chrome bumper. The part you see. (Not sure how to describe it) I found it when I was washing the truck. I tried to scrub it off and it will if you really try to scrape it off but it comes right back.

    Seems like there was a defect in the sealer they used when the truck was manufactured. Why else would they be issuing new bumpers from a new supplier with a new sealer?

    Look at your bumper really close. The other part I found it was just along the top step on the back bumper. Where the chrome meats the skid proof step. (I'll try to get a picture of where I'm talking about)

    Truckchic
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    when you say it (the rust)comes right back, how long of a period does it take to reappear? Could this be what is termed as "rail dust" or fallout? I've noticed a small amount of what appears to be rust particles on the bumpers as well as on the painted surfaces, for the paint, I used Mequiars Quik Clay detailing clay kit-worked great. For the bumpers, I used some polish to clean and protect the chrome. In the winter here in Wisconsin, I apply a thin coating of grease to the right corner of the rear bumper to keep it from getting all pitted and rusty looking. Not sure if it's from the road salt and/or the exhaust of the truck blowing back on it. My advice is to keep it clean and waxed, better than having a dealer change bumpers and possibly damage the truck in the removal/install process.
  • sf0383sf0383 Posts: 204
    I had a power bolt installed for $90 a couple of weeks ago when I had the Roll Top cover put on. It wires into the power door locks so that it locks and unlocks with your doors. So far so good.The bolt actually slides into the handle and prevents it from being raised. Not sure what it would take to defeat it but I suppose it could be done
  • valkyvalky Posts: 21
    I installed the R&D Accessories power tailgate lock today. The unit is homemade and a little tweaking was involved to get a perfect fit. Overall, not a bad addition. However, if a crook was wise to these set-ups he could easily defeat this one also. This got me thinking about the "What IF's." What if the tailgate was wired to the security system, so if said scum bag defeated the tailgate lock, the horn and lights would go off as soon as he opened the tailgate? I believe this can be done and done fairly easy. The security system trips off of the door switches in the cab. What if I ran 2 wires and spliced into one of the door switches and put a switch back at the tailgate? Open the tailgate and the security system would go off. There is one problem with this set-up. Say the security system is not armed and I open the tailgate, the interior lights would come on and stay on until I closed the tailgate. I believe I came up with a solution to that also. I work for a city and I work on their police cars. Each car has a shotgun mount with a power lock. What's cool about this lock is that it has a timed relay that sends power to the lock to unlock for about 15 to 30 seconds. After this time it kills power and it locks again. What if I put one of these relays in-line with the wire that would receive power when the tailgate was open? In theory power would run to the security system or the interior lights for 15 to 30 seconds. This would work for both systems. Let's say I have the security system off. I open the tailgate, the interior lights come on. The power gets cut after 15 to 30 seconds, bingo, I can leave the tailgate open indefinitely.

    Now I know each of you has tested your security systems. You roll down the window, close the door, arm the system, reach in unlock and open the door. The horn and lights go off. You then close the door and the horn and lights still continue to operate. This will still occur with the tailgate set-up. 15-30 seconds is plenty to get the security system going.

    What I do need is a wiring diagram to see which wires are which. Maybe Obyone can help me there. I'm going to go ahead and get the parts together and make everything water tight. I already have an idea where to put the switch, where it is out of the way and operable. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks

    Valky
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    You want to wire the tailgate controller into the truck's security system. So the diagram you're looking for is for the wiring in the physical door or for the the fuse box located in the engine comparment? or both?
  • erikheikererikheiker Posts: 230
    I haven't seen an R&D Accessories lock. How does it compare to the Pop Lock? I ordered a Pop Lock a few months ago, but the company e-mailed me back a few days later stating they no longer carried the item. For those with a power lock, which door did you hook up to? I plan on tapping into the passenger side, since that door is usually locked and it would be the same for the tail gate.
  • valkyvalky Posts: 21
    IF I can hook into the system under the hood that would be better, much easier hook-up. The only way for me to tell if I can is to see a wiring diagram of the system. The door switches almost always have two wires, one with power and one without power. When the door is closed the switch is open circuit, and when it opens the switch closes and completes the circuit. I need to know where I can hook into these two wires. Thanks!

    Erik,
    The R&D Acc. lock is a power lock. I believe the Pop Lock is key operated. The R&D set-up is $60 plus shipping. The job took me about 2 hours because I had to do some modifying to thier bracket, the holes did not line up exactly. Not to mention the guy that did my LineX liner stripped one of my handle bolts. After you mount the unit and run the wires in the tailgate the next step is to run the wires to the front of the truck and into the cab. Their instructions are lacking, they are not complete and you have to guess somethings. They state that you have to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the bottom of the cab. No way was I going to do this, so I pushed the wires through the rubber plug on the firewall under the windshield wiper motor. I took a razor blade and cut an X into the rubber and pushed the wires through, then sealed the hole with black silicone. The wires hook into two wires at the fuse block, easy to get to. So far works great.

    Valky
  • geowpowgeowpow Posts: 3
    I would like to change out my stock thermostat (195*?) for a lower temp. model (165*?). I have called around to chevy dealers and other parts houses, and everyone tells me none available, other than stock. They go on to say, if I do install a lower temp thermo, it will confuse the computer because its looking for the higher coolant temps. Does anyone have knowledge of this?
    My reasoning here is that I have always been told one key to engine longevity is good oil pressure and low coolant temp. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thanks! 01 4.8 3.73 locker.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    Good news and bad news -- Hypertech has a 160 degree thermostat for your engine. But, using it without Hypertech's programmer(about $350 average street price) correcting for the change will probably seriously piss off your truck's computer. Personally, although I have an HPIII programmer I'm not convinced that going to that low a thermostat temp is a good idea and I don't use one; but then I live in cold country.
    -- Don
  • truckchictruckchic Posts: 105
    Regarding the rust: This is actually rust on the bumpers. If you're having this problem, I'd ask the dealer about it because it sounds like there was a bad batch of bumper with bad sealers which went out. I can wipe off the 'rust' by scrubbing but it comes back within minutes.

    The truck is only 4 months old when I noticed the rust, and it wasn't in any type of winter weather, so that's why I couldn't understand it. Then when I took it to the dealer and they gave me hassels, then when I called back about it they had ordered me new ones from a new supplier and a new sealer applied, I knew there was something up.

    Watch those bumpers!

    Truckchic
  • maringamaringa Posts: 36
    I am interested in buying a GMC Sierra or Chevy Silverado. I plan to use the truck for city driving and occasional light loads (furniture, etc). I was looking at some of the pickups at the lots and noticed that there were two common gear ratios: 3.42 and 3.73 (I may be off a digit or two), however they both posted the same mileage. For those who own or have test driven both, can anyone tell me the difference and preference? Shouldn't the lower gear ratio theorically get better gas mileage? Also for those who have test driven a 4.8 and 5.3 liter engines, is the 5.3 extra 15hp and fuel economy sacrifice worth it especially since I don't plan to do a lot heavy hauling? Thanks in advance....
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I would get the 4.8 with the 3.42. Course with a truck, I don't think there is such a thing as good mileage...even with a 4 cylinder.
  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    I agree with obyone, a truck with a 4.8 and a rear axle ratio of a 3.42 would be good in your case. In regards to axle ratios, the lower the number, the taller, or higher the gearing. As for the engine size, in these two engines, it's a matter of preference-drive a couple and see what its like.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    other theory though....

    you can't buy too much truck......but you can buy too little..

    you can buy extra and not use it...but it's kinda hard to buy less and try to "find" more....

    I'd go with a 5.3/3:73

    - Tim
This discussion has been closed.