Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

ryanbab · July 2001

they didnt reset it

trw3 · July 2001

It's a great deal no b.s. just straight forward answers, however not all dealers will participate in the program. My 01 GMC slt 2500hd crew 4x4 w/ lots of toys was just under 38000 and I saved approx. 4800.00 off the sticker plus the cost of the taxes on the disc. After a 1000.00 customer loyalty certificate applied for waiting 9 months for the 00 truck I never recieved and paying 6.25% tax I was out the door for around 34700. I guarantee no dealer will sell under invoice like this to someone off the street. Its well worth your effort to call for your form is you qualify. Good Luck.

pjb0422 · July 2001

GMS price should be on the dealer's invoice. My salesman showed the different prices for dealer's invoice, GM employee, and GM supplier, all on the same invoice. The GMS price was slightly lower than the dealer's invoice. The good thing about GMS is no-haggle. You show them your certificate and they show you the price. Any rebates and GM Card rewards are taken off the GMS price, not MSRP.

Phil

jpfltaw · July 2001

My oil is changed religiously, last time the meter was not reset. So when it it started flashing at start up, I just let it go. Well last Sunday, got in it to take a short trip, it would not start. I tried a dozen times, it was just dead. I checked the hood, no loose connections, air filter was perfect. Could not figure it out. Decided to just call the dealer on Monday and have flatbed tow truck pick it up. Very embarrassing . Then I thought about the message center "Change Oil" flashing. Sooooo then I got the Owners manual out ( hate reading instructions ), to see how to reset the $%#%$#%$#% thing. Never reset this thing myself, as long as the warranty holds, figure to let the dealer change the oil and reset whatever..

Well to make a long story short, reset the meter and the truck started right up.

txyank1 · July 2001

Never heard that one before. Wonder if that's normal and how long it takes to happen. I've let my flash for probably another thousand miles before I got around to change the oil and it was no problem. Mine always seems to start flashing around 4500 miles.

geowpow · July 2001

bought a 01 1500 ext cab last wk w/4.8,3.73,locker,h.d.suspension,trailering pkg--now have apprx. 700 mi.,avg.mpg 17.4 under break in driving conditions/city. I'm impressed. Does anyone know if the traction assist has any effect on mpg? Will try it disabled and let you know. I experience absolutely no wheel shake or start up knocking. I am familier w/ cold start knocking..had a 94 s-10 4 banger which knocked on start up from day one. Not this engine. My only complaint so far is the uncomfortably harsh ride. Do we know if backing off from 45psi in rear tires is helpful or advisable? Thanks!

ricsch · July 2001

any suggestions as to where go through the firewall on a Silverado to run the wire harness and air line for an airspring kit? Thanks.

truckchic · July 2001

I have the exact same truck! 2001 Sierra 1500 4wheel drive - 4 door. (Indigo Blue)

Since no one actually mentioned to you how to reset the oil light, I thought I'd tell ya. I had my brother do my last oil change and I reset the light myself, so it's no big deal.

Turn the key on - but not enough to start the engine, Press the gas pedal down and up quickly 3 times within 5 seconds. You should see the oil light flash. Then bring the key to normal 'off' position and try to see if you reset the light. It's a little tricky getting the pedal down 3 times in such a sort timeframe.

Good Luck!
Truckchic

erikf2 · July 2001

Sorry I'm so late in responding; busy at work (still am, too).

I bought my springs, pump, and controller through Les Schwab and had them do the install. They installed the pump on the fan shroud, near the battery, and ran the controller lines through the firewall right next to the steering shaft. I have pictures and will post them when I get the chance.

ricsch · July 2001

Thanks for the info, I never thought of mounting the compressor in the engine compartment, but that is a possibility-would keep it out of the elements more so than hanging on the frame-I was concerned how road salt may not be too good for it. I look forward to viewing the pics.

poolzy · July 2001

Does anyone know when the pricing will be available on the 2002s? I placed an order for a 2500HD crew cab with the Duramax but the exact pricing was not yet available. Curious as to when it will come out.

Thanks

ryanbab · July 2001

http://kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.nc1?kbb.IN;514059&46323;pic&162&7&

ryanbab · July 2001

doesnt work

try http://www.kbb.com

Ryan

mrurl · July 2001

I run 35 psi all around. My door plate says 30 in front and 35 rear, but this makes no sense to me.

Peter

mrurl · July 2001

Welcome back. I haven't had much traffic at gearheadsanonymous.com, but even so I am moving it to commercial hosting. My son-in-law is reselling hosting, so my wife is making me move it. Once I get it moved it should be a lot faster, as it won't be running out of a spare bedroom over a cable modem.

Blackmax did a nice review of a test drive of a Dmax/Allison equipped 2500. I agree with him on the length issue.

Peter

vusic · July 2001

Thanks for the "oil light" info. We got into the manual the next day and got it to stop flashing.
My understanding is that the computer takes into account your driving habits and conditions and actually informs you when to change the oil.
Go figure.

DC

erikheiker · July 2001

I also have a 2001 Sierra 1500, but my light is steady for about 15 seconds. There is no blinking on mine. I've only changed the oil once before, at 2887 miles. Yesterday it came on for the first time ever while I was on a trip to Fairbanks. I came home today without any problems, so I can't imagine that there is some kind of program that prevents engine start up just because you didn't change the oil. I was at about 6500 miles when the light came on, so I made it almost 4000 miles. Most of that was city driving, so I'm not surprised. I just turned 7000 miles today, but since I run Mobil 1 I'm not going to sweat it. But I do know what I'll be doing in the morning! It does look like I have a nice tight engine though. My dipstick still reads full when I check it on level ground. That makes it two GMC engines in a row (and they are the only two I've ever owned) that lose no oil between oil changes. I gotta love that!

mgdvhman · July 2001

It can't be reset unless it comes on though..I found that out.

As for miles between.....there is no sensor that won't let the engine run if it's not changed. I have over 8000 miles on this Mobil 1...and she starts fine...(light has been on for about 3200 miles)

- Tim

erikheiker · July 2001

The change oil message can be reset at any time. I reset mine before it came on the last time and I got the five second flashing the owner's manual talks about. GM recommends changing the oil after 3000 miles under certain conditions. Certainly they don't expect you to not reset the monitoring cycle. If you're not getting any indication that the system has been reset and you're sure you followed the correct procedures, then you should consider having the dealer see if there is a problem.

erikheiker · July 2001

Case of Mobil 1: $26.94
One Mobil 1 M1-206 oil filter: $9.99
Lift rental/oil disposal: $8.00
Oil change and lube done right: Priceless

This may cost a few bucks more than one of those oil change shops, but at least I know it was done right plus I have the added benefit of a synthetic oil and lube. I had to replace the hose on my lube gun so I also added a 360° swivel to the coupler and what a difference it made! I would seriously recommend doing the same if you have your own grease gun. It makes it much easier to keep pressure on the coupler plus you have the added benefit of being able to more easily line up the coupler.

ryanbab · July 2001

Lift rental?

I dont even need to jack up my truck to change the oil

FILTER 9.99? DAMNNNNNNN i paid 50 cents each for my AC Delco's (which is recommended by gm)

redsilverado · July 2001

i'm with you on the filters, remeber when kyle and i both used the Mobil filter? both of us reported the lower oil pressure readings. may not be serious, but why take a chance, especially when you throw 10 bucks down the drain for an oil filter.

gmcdude61 · July 2001

Bought a new GMC 2500HD 2WD. Got it home, noticed front drivers side was drooping. Had to crank in 4 complete turns into the driver's side torsion bar.
Is this something to be concerned about or is this normal?
Thanks for any info...

ryanbab · July 2001

Maybe i am wrong but i thought they were only on 4wd trucks

erikheiker · July 2001

I like using a lift because it makes it sooo much easier. I can also inspect the entire underside of the truck that way. Wait til you're a little older, grasshopper!

My oil pressure has always been the same...60 lbs while driving, a little over 40 lbs at idle. I have yet to see a PF-59 here in town. PF-58s are available, but I understand there is a difference. I'm sure the dealer has a PF-59, but it wouldn't be much cheaper than the Mobil 1. As much as my truck cost, I'll not squabble about the price of the Mobil 1.

obyone · July 2001

(1) Sturdy 1" wrench nut makes removal quick and easy.
(2) Drilled safety wire holes for racing.
(3) Metal leaf spring provides a positive seal between element and lid.
(4) Heavy-Duty construction provides over 550 PSI hydrostatic burst strength.
(5) Resin-impregnated filter media provides maximum filtering surface for contaminant removal.
(6) Inner core provides extra structural support to prevent filter collapse.
(7) Anti-drainback valve eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown.
(8) Rolled threads provide extra protection against stripping.
(9) Leak-Proof double roll stream.
(10) Internally lubricated gasket provides seal while allowing easy on and off of filter.

redsilverado · July 2001

like i said, it's probably not a big deal, but to me, the higher you keep it(considering all items fed by oil) the better. with the pf-59 mine stays at 50psi. at idle and 65-70 at 40mph and above. when i tried the mobil filter it ran around 40 at idle, and 50-55 at normal speeds. tells me that the filter may be a little restrictive. not woth 10 bucks to use for only 5,000 miles anyway. i'd like to try the K&N like you are using Oby, but they aren't readily available here.

txyank1 · July 2001

For 2002 the C3 does indeed become the Sierra Denali and will offer "Quadrasteer". This 4 wheel steering system reduces the turning radius by 9.9 ft. I read this in the "GMC Directions" latest edition.

obyone · July 2001

on three things.

1-There were no PF 59 around.

2-Like that nut shape on the bottom for easy removal

3-Due to its cost, its always available at Checkers...people tend to by that el cheapo fram.

Course on the Denali, I run the cheapest oil filter which is Fram and regular dino...Chevron brand 10W-30 from Costco....$9.99 a case of 12. One of the advantages of leasing I guess.

tucsonjwt · July 2001

That one had a long screw that went through the filter and went into the bottom of the engine. Must be tje retro look?

:)

valky · July 2001

Anyone thinking of buying a Bully Tailgate lock, please reconsider. This is a cheap crappy item.
The locking mechanism is easy defeated and the bezel is cast wrong, can pull it out with one finger nail, not tight at all. The manufacturer stated that when the bezel is installed it is there to stay, what a joke. I threw mine in the garbage. I'll consider this a $26 lesson. Does anybody know of a quality tailgate lock? Is the power tailgate lock worth the price? Thanks.

Conrad

ndance · July 2001

Oddly enough, there is somebody on the Silverado Problems discussion with the same issue. Perhaps you could compare notes.

obyone · July 2001

It's the same person.

valky · July 2001

It's my evil twin. He's always shadowing me.

truckchic · July 2001

Hey, anyone with a 2001 GMC experiencing rusting on their bumpers? I know I mentioned this before but I don't think it was in this forumn. I had this problem and had trouble convincing the dealer about this, but somewhere in between my talk with them and my call a few weeks later to make an appointment, they said they ordered me new bumpers from a new supplier with a new sealer on them. I just checked with the dealer yesterday and they are going to see if they came in yet. But, they don't think they released these 'new' bumpers yet.

Anyone else have this issue?

Truckchic

ricsch · July 2001

would this be on the back side of them? Is it actually rust or is it like a brownish film?

truckchic · July 2001

It's on the front of the chrome bumper. The part you see. (Not sure how to describe it) I found it when I was washing the truck. I tried to scrub it off and it will if you really try to scrape it off but it comes right back.

Seems like there was a defect in the sealer they used when the truck was manufactured. Why else would they be issuing new bumpers from a new supplier with a new sealer?

Look at your bumper really close. The other part I found it was just along the top step on the back bumper. Where the chrome meats the skid proof step. (I'll try to get a picture of where I'm talking about)

Truckchic

ricsch · July 2001

when you say it (the rust)comes right back, how long of a period does it take to reappear? Could this be what is termed as "rail dust" or fallout? I've noticed a small amount of what appears to be rust particles on the bumpers as well as on the painted surfaces, for the paint, I used Mequiars Quik Clay detailing clay kit-worked great. For the bumpers, I used some polish to clean and protect the chrome. In the winter here in Wisconsin, I apply a thin coating of grease to the right corner of the rear bumper to keep it from getting all pitted and rusty looking. Not sure if it's from the road salt and/or the exhaust of the truck blowing back on it. My advice is to keep it clean and waxed, better than having a dealer change bumpers and possibly damage the truck in the removal/install process.

sf0383 · July 2001

I had a power bolt installed for $90 a couple of weeks ago when I had the Roll Top cover put on. It wires into the power door locks so that it locks and unlocks with your doors. So far so good.The bolt actually slides into the handle and prevents it from being raised. Not sure what it would take to defeat it but I suppose it could be done

valky · July 2001

I installed the R&D Accessories power tailgate lock today. The unit is homemade and a little tweaking was involved to get a perfect fit. Overall, not a bad addition. However, if a crook was wise to these set-ups he could easily defeat this one also. This got me thinking about the "What IF's." What if the tailgate was wired to the security system, so if said scum bag defeated the tailgate lock, the horn and lights would go off as soon as he opened the tailgate? I believe this can be done and done fairly easy. The security system trips off of the door switches in the cab. What if I ran 2 wires and spliced into one of the door switches and put a switch back at the tailgate? Open the tailgate and the security system would go off. There is one problem with this set-up. Say the security system is not armed and I open the tailgate, the interior lights would come on and stay on until I closed the tailgate. I believe I came up with a solution to that also. I work for a city and I work on their police cars. Each car has a shotgun mount with a power lock. What's cool about this lock is that it has a timed relay that sends power to the lock to unlock for about 15 to 30 seconds. After this time it kills power and it locks again. What if I put one of these relays in-line with the wire that would receive power when the tailgate was open? In theory power would run to the security system or the interior lights for 15 to 30 seconds. This would work for both systems. Let's say I have the security system off. I open the tailgate, the interior lights come on. The power gets cut after 15 to 30 seconds, bingo, I can leave the tailgate open indefinitely.

Now I know each of you has tested your security systems. You roll down the window, close the door, arm the system, reach in unlock and open the door. The horn and lights go off. You then close the door and the horn and lights still continue to operate. This will still occur with the tailgate set-up. 15-30 seconds is plenty to get the security system going.

What I do need is a wiring diagram to see which wires are which. Maybe Obyone can help me there. I'm going to go ahead and get the parts together and make everything water tight. I already have an idea where to put the switch, where it is out of the way and operable. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks

Valky

obyone · July 2001

You want to wire the tailgate controller into the truck's security system. So the diagram you're looking for is for the wiring in the physical door or for the the fuse box located in the engine comparment? or both?

erikheiker · July 2001

I haven't seen an R&D Accessories lock. How does it compare to the Pop Lock? I ordered a Pop Lock a few months ago, but the company e-mailed me back a few days later stating they no longer carried the item. For those with a power lock, which door did you hook up to? I plan on tapping into the passenger side, since that door is usually locked and it would be the same for the tail gate.

valky · July 2001

IF I can hook into the system under the hood that would be better, much easier hook-up. The only way for me to tell if I can is to see a wiring diagram of the system. The door switches almost always have two wires, one with power and one without power. When the door is closed the switch is open circuit, and when it opens the switch closes and completes the circuit. I need to know where I can hook into these two wires. Thanks!

Erik,
The R&D Acc. lock is a power lock. I believe the Pop Lock is key operated. The R&D set-up is $60 plus shipping. The job took me about 2 hours because I had to do some modifying to thier bracket, the holes did not line up exactly. Not to mention the guy that did my LineX liner stripped one of my handle bolts. After you mount the unit and run the wires in the tailgate the next step is to run the wires to the front of the truck and into the cab. Their instructions are lacking, they are not complete and you have to guess somethings. They state that you have to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the bottom of the cab. No way was I going to do this, so I pushed the wires through the rubber plug on the firewall under the windshield wiper motor. I took a razor blade and cut an X into the rubber and pushed the wires through, then sealed the hole with black silicone. The wires hook into two wires at the fuse block, easy to get to. So far works great.

Valky

geowpow · July 2001

I would like to change out my stock thermostat (195*?) for a lower temp. model (165*?). I have called around to chevy dealers and other parts houses, and everyone tells me none available, other than stock. They go on to say, if I do install a lower temp thermo, it will confuse the computer because its looking for the higher coolant temps. Does anyone have knowledge of this?
My reasoning here is that I have always been told one key to engine longevity is good oil pressure and low coolant temp. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thanks! 01 4.8 3.73 locker.

minikin · July 2001

Good news and bad news -- Hypertech has a 160 degree thermostat for your engine. But, using it without Hypertech's programmer(about $350 average street price) correcting for the change will probably seriously piss off your truck's computer. Personally, although I have an HPIII programmer I'm not convinced that going to that low a thermostat temp is a good idea and I don't use one; but then I live in cold country.
-- Don

truckchic · July 2001

Regarding the rust: This is actually rust on the bumpers. If you're having this problem, I'd ask the dealer about it because it sounds like there was a bad batch of bumper with bad sealers which went out. I can wipe off the 'rust' by scrubbing but it comes back within minutes.

The truck is only 4 months old when I noticed the rust, and it wasn't in any type of winter weather, so that's why I couldn't understand it. Then when I took it to the dealer and they gave me hassels, then when I called back about it they had ordered me new ones from a new supplier and a new sealer applied, I knew there was something up.

Watch those bumpers!

Truckchic

maringa · July 2001

I am interested in buying a GMC Sierra or Chevy Silverado. I plan to use the truck for city driving and occasional light loads (furniture, etc). I was looking at some of the pickups at the lots and noticed that there were two common gear ratios: 3.42 and 3.73 (I may be off a digit or two), however they both posted the same mileage. For those who own or have test driven both, can anyone tell me the difference and preference? Shouldn't the lower gear ratio theorically get better gas mileage? Also for those who have test driven a 4.8 and 5.3 liter engines, is the 5.3 extra 15hp and fuel economy sacrifice worth it especially since I don't plan to do a lot heavy hauling? Thanks in advance....

obyone · July 2001

I would get the 4.8 with the 3.42. Course with a truck, I don't think there is such a thing as good mileage...even with a 4 cylinder.

ricsch · July 2001

I agree with obyone, a truck with a 4.8 and a rear axle ratio of a 3.42 would be good in your case. In regards to axle ratios, the lower the number, the taller, or higher the gearing. As for the engine size, in these two engines, it's a matter of preference-drive a couple and see what its like.

mgdvhman · July 2001

other theory though....

you can't buy too much truck......but you can buy too little..

you can buy extra and not use it...but it's kinda hard to buy less and try to "find" more....

I'd go with a 5.3/3:73

- Tim

Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout

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