Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler

1417418420422423455

Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    CJ-2A vs the Mule (Straightline)

    Steve, Host
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    drewmeister, I think you are making the right decision to not immediately sell the Jeep. Certainly don't understand your situation well enough to offer specific advice, but I would suggest that you try to not make any immediate, emotional decisions about things like finances, relocation, etc. Its been my experience that a couple of weeks reflection on your new circumstances will change those first knee-jerk thoughts. Conserve cash, tell everyone you know--or have ever known--that you are looking for employment and remind them often. May be tough on your pride, but friends, family and acquaintances are nearly always the best source of career prospects. A lot of advice from someone who just said they have none, sorry!

    Mark
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    I want to take my doors off but have never done it before. :blush: Any advice? Thanks.

    jb
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    You will need a 13 MM boxed end wrench to remove the nut from the bottom of the door hinge pin. I recommend a boxed end wrench, so that you are less likely to scratch your paint due to the slip of the wrench.

    If you are worried about the paint on the nut itself, you can put a rag or something over it before putting the wrench on it, but this is not going to be real effective. You can pretty much count on the paint being removed from the corners of the nut.

    Once the nut is removed, be sure that the door limiting strap is disconnected and SLOWLY lift the door STRAIGHT up. It may be necessary to work the door back and forth a little as you lift. If you have full doors, they are going to be a lot heavier than you would expect, so don't let the load take you by surprise and cause you to let the door slip. Those exposed threads on the bottom of the hinge pin will take the paint right off the side of your Jeep.

    You will need to remove the #4 fuse from the fuse box to keep the interior light from staying on all the time. I believe it is the bottom fuse in the right hand column of fuses.

    Good luck.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    Thanks Tom. You rock! :D
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    One more thing, as I've seen it asked on this board before. The doors simply may not come out if they haven't been removed before. We've solved this with a combination floor jack and 2x4 solution. A short length of board (I notch a V into it) placed between the cup of the floor jack and bottom of a slightly open door will allow you to SLOWLY lift the door out of it's hinge. Going too quickly will bend the bottom of the door or pop the door out too fast to catch. I can do this alone since I've done it a few times, but it's a bit easier having someone to hold the door when the hinge pins get to the top. Then get the jack out of the way and carry the door to the garage or wherever. Oh, really important if you're a detail nut like me, get a couple of folded cardboard boxes or other soft landing to stand the doors on. If you just set them on your concrete garage floor they will get scratched up.
    Final check item, put the windows down first. Seems simple, but if you've never done it before I just wanted to make sure. Tom's right in that the weight will surprise you, as they don't take much effort to open/close, so it doesn't seem that they'd be heavy. The frame makes a natural handle/yoke with the window down.

    Does it seem to anyone else that they've become lighter? I remember my YJ doors being REALLY heavy. The TJ doors don't seem quite as bad. Not an empirical measure, just a gut feeling...
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Mark,
    Thanks. That actually does help more than you know. The left side of my brain says you're exactly right and is overriding the right-side of my brain, which is calling to SELL EVERYTHING AND TURN OFF THE CABLE RIGHT NOW AND GET FOODSTAMPS!
    You're right about just breathing for awhile. I've still got a month or two on the clock to help transition job duties, and watching Fun With Dick & Jane a couple of times has helped greatly. I'm going to move on to Office Space tonight, as well as put the bikini top on the LJ and putter around in the sunny weather.
    Thanks again for the post.
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    Ah, Office Space:

    Bob Slydell: You see, what we're trying to do is get a feeling for how people spend their time at work so if you would, would you walk us through a typical day, for you?
    Peter Gibbons: Yeah.
    Bob Slydell: Great.
    Peter Gibbons: Well, I generally come in at least fifteen minutes late, ah, I use the side door - that way Lumbergh can't see me, heh - after that I sorta space out for an hour.
    Bob Porter: Da-uh? Space out?
    Peter Gibbons: Yeah, I just stare at my desk, but it looks like I'm working. I do that for probably another hour after lunch too, I'd say in a given week I probably only do about fifteen minutes of real, actual, work.

    Bob Slydell: I'd like to move us right to Peter Gibbons. We had a chance to meet this young man, and boy that's just a straight shooter with upper management written all over him.
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    WD 40 may help .

    you are going to lose your side view mirrors too, i use these. in IL you are required to have at least one side view mirror.

    http://www.quadratec.com/products/11046_99.htm

    jeff

    like others have said, they are heavy, and if you work them back and forth while lifting they will come off.
  • rross8085rross8085 Member Posts: 4
    Just got a 2000 with a hardtop and a pavement ends Softtop still in the box. followed the directions for installation and had it installed in an hour. One problem that seems to happen when we open the flip top is that the fabric doesn't stay in the channel at the rounded sides. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what did it take to fix it.

    Thanks,

    Rob
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    I've been shopping for soft doors since the first week of warm weather this spring.

    I ordered a set today for $319 delivered from Summit Racing, much cheaper than other places I had seen.

    Its an expensive way to keep my neighbors cat from sleeping in my Jeep at night!!

    jeff
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    he traded his 80 something Vet on a YJ. He's thrilled! He says he's not taking it off road, that will change.

    jeff
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    What's up with that?

    Tidester, Steve... did you guys use your deodorant???

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    and had NO way to get on the net. I wasn't even on land. :)

    -Paul
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There were some log-in issues over the weekend, but summer's coming on, the days are long, people are playing hard outdoors. Sometimes it's hard to compete with Mother Nature.

    Btw, clogging your pores with nasty chemicals is overrated. But then again, I do work at home. :shades:

    Fortunately for you, DigiScents folded, lol.

    Steve, Host
  • zeistzeist Member Posts: 8
    Rob,
    I have a 2001 and just bought a Halftop and am experienced the same problem. Being from Buffalo, I have had the top rolled back only once, I probably just have to do more investigating. But anyways, any suggestion would be great. Thanks.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Buddy's '99 with the 2.5L is idling a little rough. Also this weekend, the engine stalled twice in as many days. 122K on the odometer. Any ideas? Might just be a bad tank of gas but who knows. Changing the plugs this weekend which are overdue but any other thoughts are welcome.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Changing the wires may be a good way to go too. Check the air filter as well. Shooting some carb cleaner down the throttle body helped my engine idle a bit too as it cleaned some stuff off that the air filter kinda missed.

    My 97 2.5L has about 110,000 on it and it is running great now.

    -Paul
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    got a question about my mileage readings...when i push the button on the dash to switch the view from "regular" mileage to the view with the decimal point, the values are off by ~2 miles. anyone else notice this?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The view with the decimal point reads the trip mileage since it was last reset. It will always vary from the other reading, which is the total vehicle mileage. Most people reset their trip reading when refilling the tank. To do so just hold the button down for more than two seconds when in trip mode.
  • rross8085rross8085 Member Posts: 4
    :( Thanks for the info. I did find it was easier to put back on each time I us the flip top by marking the center point on the fabric and bracket with white paint so I wouldn't have to try and realign it. I live in the Seattle area and this time of year we get one good sunny day followed by days like today where it is raining.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    My '95 with the 2.5 has developed a coolant leak. Water pumps are cheap and this may be my source. How difficult is the water pump to remove. I notice the serpentine belt does not have a tensioner that can be easily rotated thereby allowing easy removal of the belt. What trick(s) do I need to know to remove the belt. After that, I assume the water pump is an easy replacement?????

    Are there any other notorious sources of coolant leaks. I can't be sure the source of the leak as the undercarriage is somewhat scummy. This vehicle also has a tranny cooler (I think).

    Thank you,

    David
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's not usually a good idea to replace parts just based on a hunch. Why not clean the engine compartment, either degreaser and a garden hose or with a pressure washer, so that you can confirm the actual source of the leak. It could be the water pump, but it could also be a hose or a core plug etc.

    As for the serpentine belt, assuming it's the same setup as the later models, you slacken the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley then adjust it to remove the tension by using the bolt that sits at 90º to it on the side of the casting that the pulley is mounted on.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Coolant leaks on the 2.5L are at the hose fitting points and the top of the radiator (the plastic portion).

    The belt tensioner on the 2.5 is not a spring arm type setup. There is a pulley that is essentially on a bolt. You turn the bolt up or down and it will adjust the pulley up or down (tight or loose). If you look at the engine from the grille, it is not the top most pulley on the right, but the one below it (if I recall correctly).

    Radiator leaks are VERY common on Jeeps, and it is no more than 150-250 to buy a radiator online at some place like radiatorbarn.com or something like that and get a 2 or 3 row all metal radiator, eliminating the plastic/metal connection. I replaced my radiator myself in about 2 hours, taking my time and reading a writeup on www.stu-offroad.com. If you do this, take the time to replace your hoses and thermostat as well and start as fresh as possible. There may be gunk in the hoses that may prevent proper flow or seals so for a few extra bucks, do it right and completely.

    The peace of mind is worth it!

    -Paul
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Understood!

    Which is why I was asking for alternative sources other than the water pump. The leak is not coming from an easily observed location, i.e. upper/lower radiator hose and I wanted to be able to quickly eliminate some sources. It needs a new serp belt anyway, so I wanted to take care of it all while I was in there.

    Thanks again,

    David
  • smurf6smurf6 Member Posts: 27
    Hi, I've finally saved enough to replace the stock tires for my 2003 Sport which is driven on town roads, interstate and some dirt roads. I've read the posts here about the different tires and would like to know if you have any opinion of the Nokian All Weather tires. Better or worse then BFG's? The local tire place is recommending them but I've never heard of them. Thanks in advance. Susan
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Neither have I! :shades:

    However, that's not to say that they're a bad tire, but I'd suspect that they're being recommended because that's the brand they carry (and possibly have the best markup on). Did I really say that? :blush:

    Brand X........unknown quantity, BFGs........highly recommended. You choose! ;)
  • smurf6smurf6 Member Posts: 27
    Yeah that was my concern. But I am admittedly not as well versed in tires as some of you are so I figured I'd ask. If all of you hadn't heard of them....I'll look for the BFG's. Thanks.
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Tom, Mac, and Mtngal all suggested the BFG's. I just installed them on my 2002 Sport....what a ride!...
    these guys and gals really know what they are talking about....Tom recommended the 31x10.5 BFG All terrain....
    they look great. Trust me...you'll love em.
    By the way.....Costco's has an additional $60. off starting June 5 on a purchase of 4 tires. you also get free rotations, road hazard, mount balance, new stems and all the other stuff.
    Lew
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Nokian tires are a well respected brand among those who want to drive their sport sedans in the slick stuff. Recently Nokian has begun to expand their product line into other market segments. For example, the Nokian WR tire is similar to the BFG and the Dunlop RVXT in that it is an all-season tire which also carries the "Snowflake on the Mountain" winter certification. Are the Nokians All Terrain tires better than the BFGs or the Dunlops? Beats me. That said, Nokian tires are certainly not generic off-brand junk such as Big-O or Mastercraft.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I just said my final goodbye to my Noble Black Steed ('98 Wrangler). It's sad to not see him in my driveway, but on the other hand, I sold him to someone who drove up in a Liberty. And he does his own maintenance and will take good care of him. I got what I wanted (more than I was going to ask for it, less than I advertised it for - it was a good, fair price). I'm delighted to have sold it to a good home.

    So now we're back down to 2 vehicles, the Unlimited and the Fit. I'm delighted with how things have worked out, it's just that I've never had such fun with a vehicle, and it was something special for me. Even more so than the GiGi (the Unlimited), which is much more practical and easier to drive. Can't quite explain it, guess it's a Jeep thing, and all of you would probably understand.

    P.S. I definitely like the BFG AT tires, both Wranglers have them and they wear well, ride well and have good traction for the off-roading I do.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    50K on my BFGs with probably another 20K to go. If you have the option, get the insurance though no matter what the tire. I picked up a 6-inch bolt through the sidewall of one of mine a couple years ago and extremely glad I had spit out the $80 or so for the insurance package. If you get a long-lasting tire like the BFG A/Ts, chances are at least one will eventually encounter something unpleasant.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Well after 2 weeks, don't ask, I finally got the Jeeperman rear bumper with tire carrier installed.

    I'll answer any questions you may have about it, but here is how it looks all nice and done.

    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    My 33's with my Canyon wheels now fit nicely. The LED 3rd taillight looks nice and clean and is VERY bright. I'm now set to do an LED taillight conversion when I install my corners. Backup lights will be some $20.00 fog lamps from WalMart or something like that and be mounted on the tire carrier itself.

    -Paul
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    Good looking bumper and the tires look great also. What width are those? The canyons are 7", right? Is that the 3rd brake light in the center of the spare?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Tires are TrXuS MT's 33x12.5x15 running on 15x8 Canyon wheels. The Canyons on TJ's are 8", but I do believe there is a 7" version as well.

    The 3rd brake light is indeed in the center of the spare. It is a flush mounted LED light that I got with the carrier setup. And it is WAY brighter than the factory CHMSL.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The Canyons on TJ's are 8", but I do believe there is a 7" version as well.

    Yes, that's correct. TJ Canyons are always 8" but there's a 7" version that was fitted to Grand Cherokees.
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    thought about a vanity plate for the jeep but was wondering if there was any place that does personalized tire covers (decent price)?.....I've checked the net but most want over 150 to do it.....is that reasonable??
    Lew
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    "Tires are TrXuS MT's 33x12.5x15 running on 15x8 Canyon wheels. The Canyons on TJ's are 8", but I do believe there is a 7" version as well.

    The 3rd brake light is indeed in the center of the spare. It is a flush mounted LED light that I got with the carrier setup. And it is WAY brighter than the factory CHMSL.

    -Paul"


    Paul:

    You must be running wheel spacers in order to fit those 12.50" tires on the Canyon rims without rubbing the spring perches and lower control arms, right?

    No way you could run them otherwise.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • jeff62301jeff62301 Member Posts: 310
    Looks Great!!
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    where's the ladder for getting in it? :>)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Tom, yup. :)

    When I've rotated the tires, I've checked the torque settings on each of the wheel spacers (Spidertrax), and they've been at what I set them at every time.

    My wife wouldn't let me sell the Canyons after having bought them to replace the stock SE wheels, so I had to make em work. All that, even though the spacers cost more than some black steelies. :)

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    No ladder required. I have a trampoline. ;)

    Actually, it is still pretty easy for me to get in. But my wife has to use the Raingler hand grips I installed and she can pull/hop up into it. Honestly she doesn't ride in it much, but when she's in it, she doesn't mind it at all. :)

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Changing the brake fluid for the first time this weekend on the Jeep (I know, I know). Any advice? I've never done this before. How many pints will I need? I'm going to get one of those bleeder kits at the parts store. Note that I have ABS.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First, get a good brake fluid. I like to use Valvoline SynPower synthetic brake fluid, which doesn't cost much more than the cheap stuff and is widely available. It comes in 32 fl.oz. containers and I'd get two. You can always return the second one if you don't use it.

    Unless you get a pressure bleeder (about $60), it's best to have a helper, though they don't have to be skilled. Although ABS brakes theoretically require some extra equipment and procedures, I've had no problems doing it the regular way.

    All your helper has to do is sit in the drivers seat and follow your commands. You start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work back towards it. So, right rear first, followed by left rear, right front, then left front.

    Using a piece of clear hose that fits snugly of the bleed nipple, place the other end in a container. With a wrench over the nipple, tell your helper to press 'down' on the brake pedal. As they do so, slacken the nipple by 3/4 to one turn at which time the pedal will sink to the floor and old brake fluid will flow through the hose into the container. Your helper should hold the pedal to the floor and you then tighten the nipple. Your helper then lets the pedal return when you tell them 'up'. As it returns fluid will be sucked from the reservoir into the system.

    Repeat the process ('down', slacken, tighten, 'up'), until fresh clean fluid is passing through the hose. Pause every four or five cycles to go and top up the reservoir with fresh fluid. After you have clean fluid through to the furthest wheel the process will be much quicker on subsequent wheels.

    You can substitute all the scrambling up and down from the wheels for your daily workout! :sick:
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Mac, should I siphon off the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean stuff before starting?

    I have a helper, thankfully my sister will be over here on Saturday.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, that will shorten the overall process but it's not absolutely necessary. Be careful not to spill any on your paintwork though. Make sure not to reduce the level to below the takeoff ports at the bottom of the reservoir, or you may introduce air into the system.

    One final point. Unless your brake pads are new, don't fill the reservoir to the highest mark when the bleeding is completed. As the pads wear the fluid level will drop, but it will return when new pads are fitted and the pistons are retracted. If the level is to the max with old pads, then the reservoir will overflow when new pads are fitted.

    Have fun!
  • minarets1minarets1 Member Posts: 49
    well, i am no die-hard jeep guy, so i may have just scared half of you away but i am coming to the pros for some advise. i am and have always been a sports sedan kind of guy. id like a G35 sedan or a Saab Aero 9-5, but the 2003 9-5 i want is 20k. i have been told i could see a 2003-04 Wrangler for around $15,000? is that right?

    also, i drive about 22k miles a year. how is the Jeep as a daily driver on the road?

    thanks guys
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    It's about the opposite side of the spectrum from a sports sedan. More of a cruiser around town in its street life, not something to corner fast in. Much looser steering and a higher center of gravity. Much louder. This is a minimalist's vehicle. I can't imagine cross-shopping an Infiniti or Saab with a Wrangler. And 22K miles/year is going to get expensive on gas compared to a sedan.

    One of my best friends drives a Mini Cooper S, and we both admire each other's rides, but we'd never confuse them.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Okay, as one who has driven sport sedans like the BMW 3 Series, I can address this.

    The Jeep Wrangler is not about go-fast, get there first or get there in luxury kinda travelling. It is about the experience of getting there. Take a drive in a TJ with the top off, doors off, radio playing your favorite music, while enjoying the scenery while the wind messes up your hair. It truly is a Jeep thing.

    Now as a daily driver, even my modded TJ does quite well. Granted, it is no highway cruiser (I have the 2.5L 4 cyl engine) but when needs be, I can do just fine on the highway.

    My other rides make up for the lack of speed, and both would fall into the sport car/sedan category.

    I have my Jeep for the simple days when I want the sun in my face, the cool wind in my air, and I don't really care when I get to my destination. If I'm in a hurry, have needs to be comfort (like for a real long drive), or want to present the professional side, I take my other car.

    -Paul
  • believebelieve Member Posts: 74
    Price depends on model, mileage, condition etc.....
    You can drive all the G35's....Saab's....and ALL others and you will NEVER have as much fun as you do in a Wrangler! I sold a 91 Wrangler and missed it from that day on....I swore I would never do that again. It took me some time to find the right one (color, mileage, condition etc).
    By the way...I'm a die-hard Honda fan....but NOTHING takes the place of a Wrangler.
    Sorry for getting soooo emotional!!! :cry:
Sign In or Register to comment.