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Comments

  • Was quite interested in your report of road construction east of Lincoln's 10,000 Silver Dollar Bar and Smikes report about west of Three Forks. I am heading that way on Friday. Do you know of any decent country roads a person might get around all that. Guess if I take Lolo pass to Missoula, I can get around the Silver Dollar bar construction, but don't know how to get around Three Forks. Any ideas? I would like to keep my 2001 extended cab in the best shape possible. Thanks
    cowboyjohn
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    The road construction east of Lookout Pass on I-90 that I went through on July 6th wasn't that bad. Just guard rail work now.

    Lolo Pass is under construction, they are widening the road at the top.

    It sounds like near Three Forks you might want to make sure you have a bug/rock guard on your truck. Or at the Garrison exit off of I-90 you could take Highway 12 east through Avon, Helena, Townsend and then meet up again with I-90 east of Three Forks. It's 2 lane most of the way, but not many vehicles, no road construction and it's a nice drive. Just one mountain pass west of Helena (MacDonald Pass, 4 lanes up and down, elev. 6400', 8% grade I think, watch for deer at dusk). Stop and see the capitol building in Helena, they just got done restoring it. Great museum too.


    Here is a link to the Idaho road report:

    http://www2.state.id.us/itd/ida-road/idaroad.asp?criteria=All


    Here is a link to the Montana road report:

    http://www.mdt.state.mt.us/travinfo/const_mai_frame.html

    (click on Construction Reports)


    -David

  • David

    Thank you very much for that input. It was very helpful and I am bookmarking those websites. I also learned of some construction around Absarokee, Red Lodge, and the Wyoming line which I will be going thru. I am on my way to Nebr., and stopping in both directions to visit friends from a couple of past lives. It will be fun, but I don't want my new pickup messed up from construction. And yes, I do have the bug (stone?) deflector. Am leaving on Friday.
    Thanks again.
    cowboyjohn
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    I wish I knew who my friends were in my past lives.
    Anyway, have a great trip, hope the truck doesn't get damaged, and try to visit a Cabela's retail showroom in Sidney or Kearney NE.
    I've heard the one in Sidney is Nebraska's #1 tourist attraction...hmmm imagine that. They are pretty cool though, wish we had one here.

    -David
  • Thanks for the road trip news. Driving to Livingston MT next month from Oak Harbor WA and will keep those sites bookmarked for a road review.

    Stan
  • hdaiv1hdaiv1 Posts: 3
    I just bought a 2001 GMC Sierra with the "Ride Control" option (Hey, it was the only white one left w/$1000 rebate). Does anyone know how to lift the front end to make it match the rear? Thanks
    David A
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    crank the torsion bars up (if its a 4wd)
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    Don't you also want to add to post # 907 "....and then take it in for a wheel alignment."

    Check the height of my truck at the center of the wheelwells (with fender flares) last night. The truck was sitting level in the garage with the gas tank 1/2 full. Here are the numbers if I remember them correctly.

    Right Front: 35.75"
    Left Front: 35.75"
    Right Rear: 37.75"
    Left Rear: 37.75"

    Truck has not moved at all since day 1.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    david my rear is like 39" and front is like 37.5"

    After 285's and torsion bar crank. Before it was 36.5 in the front

    Yea you will need an alignment after you do this
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    I'll go check it again tonight, and remember to write it down too.
    -David
  • hdaiv1hdaiv1 Posts: 3
    Thanks, I knew I had heard something for it here somewhere. Unfortunately, I couldn't justify getting a 4x4, living in the South with next to nothing in snow. On a C1500 series, is there anything short of adding a front-only suspension lift kit to raise the front about an inch or so?

    I forgot to mention my new truck's specs: 2WD Ext. Cab, 5.3L, 3.73 locking rear, and enough power to pull my house down!

    David
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    cant raise the 2wd trucks. They do not have torsion bars
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Just add rubber spacers between the springs.
  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    That aint the right way to do it... but it does work.
    -Eric
  • seeligseelig Posts: 590
    is to put BFG's on the front.........like 285's!!
  • gator36gator36 Posts: 294
    Go with a 3 in. spindle lift from Fabtech? If you are going to put the
    tires on it. It would be worth the $500 to do a spindle lift.

    Then you can coax 33's into the wheel well...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    you see BFG is coming out with a new mud terrain tire? 255/85/R16 might be in my future

    Anyone wanna donate a set of rims?
  • quinnjfquinnjf Posts: 1
    Is Autotrac available on the base 2002 Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4? GMC says it's standard on the SLE but isn't clear about the base truck.
    --anybody know?

    much obliged...
  • dddaveldddavel Posts: 10
    Has anyone got their $1000 certificate yet, or know anything about whats going on ? I sent for mine in april or may, still waiting. Thanks.
  • michgndrmichgndr Posts: 160
    Pls explain further.
  • cdnindccdnindc Posts: 14
    I have a 2001 Sierra 4x4 Ext Cab, 5.3, with locking rear. I'm at 8000 miles and my owners manual says I need to check drive axle fluid level if I've never towed, or replace fluid after first 500 miles of towing. The only thing I've towed was a 6x12 uhaul trailer this past weekend moving into a new house (about 80 miles of loaded tralier hauling), and I'm about to drive from Washington, DC up to Atlantic Canada and back on the long weekend towing a loaded 6x12 trailer again (2300 miles).

    Do I need to check the drive axle fluid now, and replace when i get back,
    or
    should I replace it now, and check it when I get back.

    And how mouch do they charge for this? At the dealer, they quoted me $160. Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    You can do it yourself for about $75-80 or cheaper if you want to go with different fluid

    gm fluid is $26-$28 a qt and you will need 2 qts and about half of a third so thats almost $80. Then you need a new gasket.

    i did mine myself not to long ago. I have never done this on a vehicle before and found it pretty simple
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    In May when I got my new truck I got
    a sidesaddle cert from a friend.
    Because I was getting a GM employee
    discount and was not related or living
    with the person on the certificate.
    I could only get $250 on it.
    I showed my copy to the dealer.
    Filled out a GM paper at dealer and
    that was it. I never recieved the
    actual certificate !!!!!!!!!
    It must have been sent to the dealer.
    I haven"t heard anything else since
    May 01. So I guess it worked !!!!!!!!!
    Love my new Chevy 2500..........Geo
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    the Chevy/GMC ADTA Truck Show in Tulsa? It's in October. I saw it listed in Sport Truck but am not familier with this show. Always looking for shows within driving distance and am thinking of going. I don't even know what the ADTA stands for.
  • Looking to buy a 1500 in January, need to have it in possession by March 1. I know most people like details so I'm interested in Extcab LB 4WD - off road - 6.OL engine (Big as they have - non diesel)- basically loaded - at least 3 doors.

    I figured I'd buy about a 2000 model b/c what I want in the truck will be too expensive new, but I hear so often about special rebates - several thousand dollars off MSRP - 3.9% financing, etc. Does this just apply to what they have in stock or can you order a truck and still get the same deal? It seems like you could get a new truck at a similar cost to a used vehicle 2 years old. Are there special requirements on the financing - like at my bank I can get the best auto loan rate they offer with no money down. Any money down required with GM?

    Any help is appreciated and I hope to become a regular contributor in the future. Thanks.
  • the truck. If you buy at the end of the model year - like a 2001 now through the next two months - you will probably get the best price. You often get $1500 - $2000 off in "consumer cash" or 1.9% or 0% financing - usually either or, but not both. If you get on one of the GM brand websites and ask for information, you will sometimes get a discount certificate later in the mail as an incentive. Also, GM has a lot of discounts for various classes of people (active duty military or reserve, recent college graduate, current Olds owner, etc,) so if you fall into one or more of those classes you can get $1000 per category in discounts.
    Some discounts depend on which region of the country you live in - I think you can get that from the GM brand websites also.
    If you plan on keeping the vehicle a long time - like 5-10 years - then I don't think it matters which model year you buy, so buying at the end of the model year makes sense. You can verify this by checking the value of a 5 year old vs. 6 year old vehicle on various car pricing websites - like here on Edmunds TMV site, Kelly Bluebook website, NADA website, Cars.com, etc.
    I lean toward taking the cash incentives vs. low financing since I plan to trade every year or two.
    If you are short on cash or just don't want to tie up money in a depreciating asset, then I would go for the lowest financing. Usually, the manufacturers can beat the ordinary financing available elsewhere, except for credit unions, which usually can meet or beat the manufacturer's normal financing.
    The most popular vehicles have the least incentives, the least popular vehicles have the most incentives, so I wouldn't look for too many incentives on big SUVs or heavy duty trucks, but since you want a 1500 you can probaly get a good deal right now.
    One other thing, if you think we are heading for a big recession you might want to hold off buying your next vehicle, since prices will drop if economic activity slows. Personally, I think this won't happen, so I think now is the time to buy.
    Good luck and welcome aboard.
  • 87lion87lion Posts: 166
    You may have a hard time finding an x-cab longbed. In the Washington DC area a year ago I did not see any long beds except for regular cabs. I had to factory order mine.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Posts: 4,162
    good luck on that one now!

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    in the 1500HD
This discussion has been closed.