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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 23dick4523dick45 Member Posts: 1
    is the backup light switch in the transmittion, if so can it be changed from the top? inspection time
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Year? Engine? Trans?
  • autoanguishautoanguish Member Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I know it's been a long time since your post, but I appreciate your post. I'm paranoid of breaking something and the info that the panel just pops off is a great relief. Thanks again for the details.
  • dawnpatrol219dawnpatrol219 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '89 GMC S-15 pick-up,(2wd,6cyl.,4.3 ltr.), and I just installed a new starter in it. I checked the flywheel and inspected everything I was supposed to and when I went to start it, all I heard was the starter motor spinning. It wasn't cranking the engine at all. My question is where to I go from here? Could the new starter be faulty? Please help me! Dawnpatrol219
  • smedley1smedley1 Member Posts: 1
    i have 97 s10 4x4 pickup with 4.3l changed crankshaft sensor engine light went out truck startedright up next day crank long time befor starting no eng light turned off truck now will not startno fire to plugs changed new sensor and coil now i haveno power toairbag turnsignals gauges ecm ign. pink wire out of ignitionswitch dosnot get power.
  • junya1junya1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone, I have a 1985 S-10 2WD 2.5 fuel injection. I am having a problem with the transmission, it will not shift gears. I've replaced the master and slave cylinders and it worked fine for a couple of hours. I remove the side plate next to the slave cylinder and noticed that when the clutch pedal is depressed I wan't getting any movement. The rod from the slave cylinder presses on a plate that I suppose engages the clutch. Well i can move that plate back and forth with my hand, it's not springing back like it suppose to. Is there a spring that's suppose to make this plate go back after pressure is let off the clutch pedal. It's going foward and staying forward. Please help
  • cred4ucred4u Member Posts: 2
    I Have own a 1999 S10. Just recently (this week) had it back at the dealer to replace a stresed oil pan, which they did the last time they worked on it (about two weeks ago). When I picked it up they informed me that they also replaced seals on the oil pump. Now I have a constant noise that was never there. At first I thought it was the heater fan but I do beleive now that it is the oil pump, sound like it is coming up from underneath. Any suggestions.
    Thank you Ed
  • bobdee1bobdee1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma with 110k on it and I think I need to replace the rear end pinion bearings. Is it ok to just put them in there and leave the existing shims as they sit?
  • cusackmcusackm Member Posts: 15
    Sounds like you have got it fixed then.

    My gas mileage started declining about 15k miles ago. But there is more to it than that. I've had this intermittent miss that iI've been trying to track down for a long time, replaced everything but the coil in the ignition. It finally wouldnt start one day and i found out it was a bad distributor cap. (Those are a bad design - im on my fourth or fifth one since ive had the truck and two of them have failed completely) I replaced it with an expensive one and the miss went away. Did i mention the miss stayed there through three different caps? And then shortly after, the catalytic converter went bad. I just took it off and banged everything out of it. Now my light stays on all the time and I dont know if there is another sensor out or if it is because i dont have a converter.
  • cusackmcusackm Member Posts: 15
    I'd check the fuel pressure if I were you.

    And to get the middle spark plug out... Jack up the front end and take the tire off. Then you'll need a spark plug socket that has a nut like thin on the end where the socket wrench plugs in. put your socket on the plug and then put and open end or box wrench on the socket and prepare to spend the next 30 minutes removing it about 1/16 of a turn at a time - if you're fortunate enough not to have much corrosion on it.
  • cusackmcusackm Member Posts: 15
    If your truck has the Borg Warner T-5 transmission, it should be cheap and very easy to replace the clutch. I have a 99 model that i had to replace the clutch on. The newer models, both 2.2 and 4.3 are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to get the transmission out and back in. And, $600 doesnt sound that outrageous to replace a clutch on a newer model s-10. I had to replace mine in Dec. 2001. The dealer had the cheapest clutch i could find (I also worked there so i got a discount over retail). But it still cost me around $350 just for the parts.
  • cusackmcusackm Member Posts: 15
    It sounds like one or more springs popped out of the middle of the clutch. If that is the case, the only remedy is to replace the clutch. I know several people with s-10s that this has happened to.
  • ttuckerttucker Member Posts: 1
    the t-stat gage on this PU hunts up and down,the thermostat is new,as well as both of the sensers, the one for the computer and the gage, but have no clue why the gage won't read the temp of the engin, temp gun on block and t stat houseing reads correct temp of t-stat, 195 deg.any help ??
  • yogi10yogi10 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like something my son did at one time. He had installed a new battery and had the cables switched. As a result, the starter turned backward. If you in fact did this, you will also want to check for other damages, such as blown fuse ( a big one, 50 amps or more). Also, if this is the case, count on replacing your radio - at least the fuse.
  • thornburg1thornburg1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,We have a 1997 GMC Sonoma Pick-Up that is about to drive us crazy. If anyone can help we would appreciate it very much. Our first problem is we are having a heck of a time trying to get it out park. We have to pump the brake and hope it comes out, we can hear a clicking noise around the steering column and have been told there was a solenoid under the dash well that covers a lot of space. Our second problem is I built the transmission put everything new in it and it still shifts so hard going from 1st to 2nd and downshifting from 2nd to1st that it will squall the tires.I have worked on cars all my life and never seen anything like this.
  • scurry3scurry3 Member Posts: 1
    Broken Tailgate Cables

    I know this is old stuff, but this question needs to be addressed because it is going to be a ongoing issue. richp2, posted the best remedy to the cable replacement issue. NAPA has the cables with a new pin and e-clip. You simply grind the rivet off and replace it with the new pin and clip. Bought a set today ($10.50 ea) and about an hour later my cables were as new again.
  • rick68rick68 Member Posts: 3
    I have replaced the heat diverter switch in my 98 s-10 pickup but the flow of air still goes through the defroster when the switch is in the floor only position. Any idea whats going on?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    If automatic did you replace the valve body with a rebuilt.
  • longrunnerlongrunner Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S10 5 speed with a 2.2L and 250,000KM. Runs like a top. I normally do over 1000km a week and was getting 800 km to the tank for the life of the machine. As of two weeks ago, this went to 700 then this week to 650KM. No really obvious issue, no service light but I am hearing what sounds like a lifter noise. Would have guessed O2 sensor but no service light. Any ideas?
  • bigfoot15bigfoot15 Member Posts: 2
    Ruined engine after new intake manifold gasket. The Chevy dealer recently replaced the intake manifold gasket in my 1993 S-10, 4.3L V6, engine code Z (that is, not the high output version) because coolant was slowly disappearing (but there was never any water in the oil, nor on the ground).

    The next morning after I brought it home, when I first started it up, it sounded as if I’d just changed the oil: it clattered for a second or two, then sounded normal.

    Next morning, same thing. So, I changed the oil and filter, even though the dealer had done that as part of the intake manifold gasket job.

    Next morning, same thing. And every morning thereafter.

    A couple days later, the engine started making very bad sounds while driving at normal operating temperature. I took it back to the dealer (having driven it 300 miles since the gasket job), and they said it sounds as if I have a bearing in the bottom end going out. They offered to put a used engine in it and to split the cost with me. (“Without admitting any fault,” they said.)

    I think that they know they did something wrong. Does anyone have any ideas about what may have happened?

    Thank you very much!
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 95 S10 with a bad 2.2 motor. Will an engine block from a 92 camaro work in this if I change the head and other stuff from my motor? I have tried to find a motor and not having much luck at that unless I want to pay the bone yard $1000.00 for one from a 95 which is not in my budget. Thanks to any and all replies.
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    Sounds like what happened to my friends car. Repair shop did a head change on his engine and started it and left it run not realizing they forgot to put the oil back into it. If they did something like this and thought they caught it in time it and just put new oil in it, it could have scored the main bearings. This would warrent having to change the motor or taking the crank out and haiving it turned and putting in a new set of rod and main bearings. If they are so willing to go half the cost it sounds to me as if they did do something wrong and are trying to save face.
  • nut62001nut62001 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new here. I own a 1990 S10 4X4 4.3 litre engine. Three weeks ago I had the starter rebuilt. The next day I drove to work, park the truck, came out three hours later to go for a coffee and the truck will not start. The starter is turning the motor but I am not getting any spark or fuel. Replaced the module in the distributor, still no spark or gas. The mechanic who has the truck now is baffled as to what the problem is. He has another truck there, that does run, and has tried many different parts from this truck on mine, still will not start. He even tried a different computer, nothing. If anyone has run into this before or has an idea of where to look for the problem I would really appreciate it. Thanks alot.
  • 01deftones01deftones Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 S10 pickup, 2.8L engine, 124,000 mile. My problem is that once the vehicle has been started and warmed up for awhile and then turned off it is hard to re-start. The engine when warm will re-start and act just fine for only about 5 seconds and then it starts to feel like it is misfiring or is having a fuel problem then will cut out. The exhaust fumes given off while this is occurring have a very strong carbon like smell, sort of like preignition does. The vehicle when cold starts great and runs great, no problems, this only occurs when the engine is warm, you turn it off and try to re-start while hot. I have already changed the plugs, wires, cap & roter with no luck. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    Sounds to me like the coil is breaking down when warm or hot or the catalytic converter could be becoming clogged. Good luck.
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    Could be a vacume leak in the vacume hoses comming to the heater. Or the vacume switch that opens and shuts the door on the heater may be leaking. If it is cable controlled the door inside the heater could have come loose.
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    Check for a broken wire at the started.
  • pekjr4pekjr4 Member Posts: 1
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Just a reminder... as mentioned in the post box and the Rules of the Road - http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/rulesoftheroad.html - please do not post your email address in your messages. It benefits everyone when answers are shared in the forum, and it prevents others from using your email address for spam. If you wish for other members to be able to contact you, click the Preferenes link in the left margin and chamnge your email address from private to public - that makes your email address visible only to members logged in.

    Thanks!
    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bigfoot15bigfoot15 Member Posts: 2
    Since a mechanic put in a new intake manifold gasket on my 1993 Chevy S-10, 4.3L, vin code Z, when I start the truck in the morning it sounds as if I just changed the oil: it rattles for a few seconds then sounds normal. Any ideas about what could cause this? Thank you!
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I have a 2000 S10 with 2wd. I had the oilcooler lines replaced a few months ago. They were leaking. The problem is with the crimping where the metal and hose portions of the lines connect. You can check it out by just looking under the front of the truck. This problem affects the 2wd and 4wd models. Same thing with the intake manifold gasket problem, both 2wd and 4wd models are affected. However, wheel bearing problems generally only affect the 4wd models.
  • guitarplaya84guitarplaya84 Member Posts: 1
    im trying to replace the fuel pressure regulator on my friends 96 s10 v6 4.3l but im having trouble finding it. can someone please tell me where it is. if you can send me a pic it would be awesome. thnx.
  • hawggod2000hawggod2000 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 S-10 approaching 60,000 miles. Around 59825, the service engine light came on and went off after I replaced the battery, which needed to be replaced after looking over the vehicle and one of the connecter had corroded and fell off. Today, at 59925, the light came on again. My uncle thinks there might be some type of emmisions programing setup to go off for 60,000 miles. Has anyone else expirienced this problem?
  • jh1956jh1956 Member Posts: 9
    Thank you. I was told by a bone yard that the camareo 4cyl would work but did not trust the guy. (I will continue to search for a loaded block that will actually fit my 95.
  • dmblair78dmblair78 Member Posts: 7
  • dmblair78dmblair78 Member Posts: 7
    My service engine soon light came on and I took it to autozone and P0420 is the result. They didn't know really for sure what could be causing that. Anyone else had that before and if so what can I do to get rid of it. Thanks.

    sorry for the duplicate posting..hit enter accidentally.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/bc/a0/09- 00823d8018bca0.jsp
  • thornburg1thornburg1 Member Posts: 2
    Hay me again, I have another problem with my 1997 GMC Sonoma 4.3 Liter auto. I replaced the manifold intake gasket which went just fine, drove the truck did good but sounded like it was a notch out of time,it was hard to start then, however I decided to move the distributor a notch back, now it won't crank at all the dash lights such as the oil light and check engine lights or the fuel pump will not work I have checked all the grounds on it and everything seems to be hooked up HELP anybody who may a solution other than junking it which I'm very close to doing
  • littlered87littlered87 Member Posts: 2
    we have a 1987 S15 with a 2.2 standard 4spd. Great little truck, it's mileage is at 460,000 KM and going strong.

    The problem we have is that we have lost our low wiper speed. (we do not have the intermittent feature)The question is, do we replace the switch, or is it the wiper motor? anyone else have this problem?

    We also are experiencing the chirping noise that others have mentioned. It can be annoying, is it the throw out bearing,?? is that hard to grease? My husband is able to fix most things, so we don't like taking the truck to a repair shop.
  • littlered87littlered87 Member Posts: 2
    we have a 1987 S15 with a 2.2 standard 4spd. Great little truck, it's mileage is at 460,000 and going strong.

    The problem we have is that we have lost our low wiper speed. (we do not have the intermittent feature)The question is, do we replace the switch, or is it the wiper motor? anyone else have this problem?

    We also are experiencing the chirping noise that others have mentioned. It can be annoying, is it the throuw out bearing,?? is that hard to grease? My husband is able to fix most things, so we don't like taking the truck to a repair shop.

    We would like to add that we are very happy with our little truck!
  • jasleepjasleep Member Posts: 3
    I got the truck running now im having brake light problems. the switch is working i tested the two wires that go to the switch one stays hot all the time and the other wire is only hot when the brake pedal is depressed. all the other light in the back work fine. Can you help please? were do i go after the switch? it looks to me like the wires go out the fire wall and connects to the hazard switch in the engine compartment. could that switch be bad? Thank you for the help. oh its on a 92 s10 4.3L v6 automatic trans 4 wheel drive. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes hazard switch could be bad and also your directional switch. I believe your brake lights might run through the direction switch. This is where a wiring diagram would come in very handy.
  • crabscrabs Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 02 sonoma. I bought a reese hitch years ago. I dug it out, but can't seem to see how it will work.
    Any ideas? The hitch is a Type 3. 750-500 tounge weight.
    It may just be to big. I checked reese. All they showed were diagrams on assembly. Hope there's help. Thanks Crabs.
  • mattv1mattv1 Member Posts: 12
    I am thinking about taking out my 2.5 4cyl and dropping in a 305 or 350. What all would I have to do to make it fit. Do I need to make it carburated or can I use fuel injection. Also would the stock trans and rear end work
  • argonzalezmargonzalezm Member Posts: 4
    The service engine soon light comes on sometimes (not evereday) during highway driving, ussualy going faster than 55MHP, on my 1995 Chevy S10. But when i shut down the engine, and restart it again the light is off. Can anybody tell me what could be happening?
  • jasleepjasleep Member Posts: 3
    the wiring diagram i have is the haynes manual it doesn't say anything about the directional switch is that on the firewall? I'm not even sure where the hazard switch is. in the haynes manual it says the break lights go through the hazard/turn switch is that under the dash or is that on the fire wall? the wires that go to the rear come out of a little black box with a bolt through the middle on the drivers side connected to the firewall. there's 3 sets of wire clusters coming from that box. one goes to the front lights one goes to the rear lights and the other goes to the engine. Thank you very much for the help.
  • harley88harley88 Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 GMC Sonoma pickup has only 22,400 miles on it and the SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT keeps coming on. I had the 3 O2 sensors replaced and that worked for a day or two. Then the light started coming back on. I took it to the garage which had performed the scan and replaced the O2 sensors. They re-scanned the engine but could not set any codes. We tightened the fuel cap for two full turns of clicking. The light didn't go off right away but did so after a few miles of driving. It stayed off for 110 more miles of driving but is now lighting back up. The vehicle seems to run OK except for the light remaining on. My garage mechanic says that the problem is inferior American quality in the cars they build. I believe he is correct but won't be able to pass the required emissions test with the light blazing away. Have any of you been able to solve this problem?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    With the light on what codes are set now.
    " My garage mechanic says that the problem is inferior American quality in the cars they build"
    Is that another way of saying he has no idea how to fix it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    the direction switch on your steering column, that signals left and right.
  • harley88harley88 Member Posts: 4
This discussion has been closed.

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