Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

1…3031333536…40

Comments

  • jetter3jetter3 Member Posts: 1
    My daughters S-10 wont start. The engine turns over but no dash lights at all. No oil light etc. Also cannot put car in neutral without using bypass in boot. My son checked coputer no faults. Any ideas where to look.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    No dash lights is a sign of a bad igniton switch, not the key one, the electrical one on the lower steering column. Check it out.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    One thing to check is making sure the passenger-side airbag wire harness is plugged back into the switch. Had a similar problem when I installed a subwoofer/amp in mine. I forgot to plug the wire back into the switch when a replaced the dash surround and no instrumentation/HVAC lights. The dash harness taps into the switch, not sure if it shares ground or power from it.

    Hope this helps.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    You said "Won't Start" - can you be more specific - Does it Turn over ok??
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Truck started overheating the other day. Gauge maxed out, check engine light lit up. I was almost home so I parked it and let cool. The next day, unscrewed the radiator cap and could see no liquid... while the reservoir is filled perfectly. Ended up adding about half of the volume of the radiator.

    Which leaves me with 2 questions. 1. With no sign of anifreeze leaking out of anywhere, where is it going?
    2. Why isn't the reservoir refilling the low radiator?
  • jeff26jeff26 Member Posts: 2
    I recently noticed a somewhat noise annoying hum coming from my fuel pump on my 2001 S-10 Zr-2. A friend suggested I replace the fuel filter because maybe it was plugged. I tried that, no luck losing the annoying hum. If I need to replace the fuel pump, is that a major project to just go to the mechanic or do it myself? Any other suggestions as to why that noise is there before I start replacing more stuff. The truck only has 49,000 miles on it so I can't possibly believe the fuel pump is already garbage.
  • chevys10chevys10 Member Posts: 1
    When applying brake, indcating light does not light. System does work. What activates the light? Thanks
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Most likely the pump insulator is worn, except for the hum no harm.
  • g_haightg_haight Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Sonoma with 2.2 4 cyl. 5speed trans. The problem I have is that it will not always start when the key is turned on. All the lights come on, and has power. After turning the key on and off several time it may start. The dealer can't find the problem thru diagnostics. I am thinking ignition switch, or netural start switch. Also the repair manual I have doesn't show the ignition switch or how to replace. Any ideas or info. would be great.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    You may wish to post this question in the general "No Start" Problems discussion - might get a quicker response there.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • sdimeprojectsdimeproject Member Posts: 3
    It is throwing a too rich code, but there is no computer update to fix it. I replaced the plugs,wires,cap,and distributur rotary. The light goes out when I fill it up but at half a tank it will come back on. Any other suggestions would be helpful. It is a 96' 4.3 Vortec
  • tesanfordtesanford Member Posts: 3
    I have the exact same problem. Did you ever find anyone with the solution? I can't find the drain hose either and the dealer acts like I am crazy.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    What is the code that is being set?
  • sdimeprojectsdimeproject Member Posts: 3
    Honestly I dont recall but the code update had nothing to do with it. My mechanic ran the engine diagnostics and told me just to give it a tune up. Now it runs better, with what I've done to it. I dont believe its a censor because the diagnostics would have said so. I've reset it, started running a higher octane, even put on a flowmaster cat system and a K&N air filter. But that stupid light always brings me down.
  • nscottnscott Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone here tell me where the transmission fluid fill cap in a 99 GMC Sonoma is located :confuse: :blush:
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    AutoZone will read the codes for free....have the code read and post it. Someone then may be able to make an educated guess as to your problem. Until then it is impossible to even make an educated guess as to what may be wrong.
  • sdimeprojectsdimeproject Member Posts: 3
    The only code thats being thrown is "fuel to rich" and the diagnostics test only confirmed it more. Its rich on both sides of the block but none of the sensors are out.
  • tesanfordtesanford Member Posts: 3
    AC condenser won't drain. I keep hearing water noise splashing inside the truck beneath the glove box. I can't find the drain hose. Have any of you fix this problem?
  • rtb20926rtb20926 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Chevy S10 pickup that has just started doing this same ABS issue. The ABS comes on when stopping (under 5mph). Have you figured this out. I'm looking for any suggestions before taking it to the garage.
    Thanks!
  • rtb20926rtb20926 Member Posts: 4
    Chevy S10 ExCab ZR2 - I have a problem with my seat levers and I was wondering if you could help me out. The drivers side seat will move front and back fairly easily without touching the lever under the seat. Even if I lean back to hard the seat will slide back. How can I fix this and how costly? Thanks!
  • gwjrgwjr Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem also along with my battery dieing over a 24 to 48 hour period while just sitting while not in use. The dealership first put a new alternator and battery in it and next put a new ignition switch in it to no avail. I have been told by a independent mechanic that it could possibly be the starter causing all of the problems by having a shortage and not getting fire. I haven't taken it back to get it checked out yet. I still have no clear answer but maybe this will help.
  • rtb20926rtb20926 Member Posts: 4
    Chevy S10 ExCab ZR2 - I have a problem with my seat levers and I was wondering if you could help me out. The drivers side seat will move front and back fairly easily without touching the lever under the seat. Even if I lean back to hard the seat will slide back. How can I fix this and how costly? Thanks!
  • rtb20926rtb20926 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Chevy S10 ZR2 pickup that has just started having an ABS issue. The ABS comes on when stopping (under 5mph). Has anyone seen this problem. I read a post that was like this one and I replied but there was no response. I'm looking for any suggestions before taking it to the garage.
    Thanks!
  • tesanfordtesanford Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my passenger seat. If anyone has a fix, it would be appreciated. Also an S10 extended cab ZR2.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    There is a TSB on that problem, corrosion under the front wheel sensors. It basically says remove the sensor, clean the rust and use grease. An update says use something else but I like the grease idea, it is simple.
    Some trucks are being recalled, call your dealer and see if yours is one, if it is not report it to NHTSA so they get another recall going.
  • kanthokantho Member Posts: 1
    Today I will go for the replacement as you discribed. It's the 6th busted latch handle on my 2003 sonoma. I just get tired waiting at the dealer for them to do the replacement each time. I will go buy a bunch of handles and get familiar with the method of replacement. May even try to reinforce the handle design with fiberglass and epoxy. The GMC design on this handle sucks.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I'm having a problem charging my 97 S-10 A/C. It's low and keeps short cycling. I bypassed the relay to make the pump take a charge but it still short cycles even with relay bypassed. I'm bewildered. A common place for me these days. Any suggestions?
    Thanx,
    Bewildered in Midwest
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    "Lessons Learned" After much time and expense including, among other things, dropping my transmission and having it overhauled, I fixed my vibration problem. I felt like the dog chasing his tail, duh.

    As it turns out, some time back I replace the catalytic converter with an aftermarket. The heat shield on top didn't match up. I manufactured a bracket and mounted back end to bottom of cab. Thus when conditions were low speed/ high torque I got a bad vibration. Bet next time I take a car to trans shop first, for test drive, before dropping it out to be overhauled.

    Lets see: rotate and balance tires, new motor mounts, new drive shaft carrier bearing, new transmission, to fix a vibrating heat shield. Seems like it's learning the hard way.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I think we have all been there.....I don't even want to think about some of the "duh" moments I've had over the years :blush:

    Remember, If you ain't screwed up it's because you ain't been doing anything :shades:
  • joelhjoelh Member Posts: 1
    My temp. gauge swings with no rime or reason,,but can't find the switch on the engine to check it.Also,,my truck has 171,000 on it and still carries high oil preasure,is that normal?THANKS.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    I have a 98' sonoma, with brand new shocks on it, it still sits lower in the rear-end, any help would be great. Thanks!!!
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Shocks wouldn't affect the ride height. Either you have weak springs or they have been changed.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    My 99 Sonoma is low in the back, it has the soft ride.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Considered air shocks?
  • araber08araber08 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Chevy S-10 2WD 4.6 V-6 automatic. When i pull out of somewhere quickly and get the RPM's really high and then let off when i get up around 55 it begins to sound funny and loose power. If i stop it will almost not run, the lights dim (not the alternator), and i loose power brakes (they still work you just gotta push) it sounds like its flooded but im not sure thats the problem. Some say the chokes stuck and others say its the fuel regulator. It doesn't do this every time but it will do it every so often. If im having the problem and stop then try to start again i have to push the gas pedal down pretty far before it takes a hold and goes. what do you guys think?
  • trogdortrogdor Member Posts: 2
    i have a 99 2.2 5 spd and when wiring up my stereo well actually when done wiring my stereo my speedo and oil pressure gauge do not work any more. any ideas on what may have happened i tore my dash apart and didnt find any loose wires and i have checked all my fuses and the sensor on my tranny. all appear to be in order.
  • talonflyttalonflyt Member Posts: 1
    Don't know if you have had any luck but mine has been doing that for 3 years now and i've been driving it every day. I just check it 3 times a weeek. I've been to seatttle twice and back to central calif and haven't had a problem. you ask why i don't fix it? because I have a spare wrecked s10 in my yard and when the engine quits I'll just swap it.But it's gone 60,000 miles that way and never missed a beat.I f you take out the rear spark plug you will find it'd got white residue on it near as I can tell it's the head gasket good luck
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks for the tip. We have been dragging our feet replacing the handle a second time with a factory part that is going to break again.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Changed the oil. There didn't appear to be water in it. Also there doesn't seem to be any white smoke out the exhaust, so hopefully it's not the main gasket. We did have a problem in the past with the dexcool turning to sludge, so clogging could definitely be a problem. The whole interior surface of the coolant system is coated in brown rusty like sludge. However, the coolant running through it looks good. As long as it's filled, we don't have a temp. problem, so for now I think we are just going to keep checking it until we get a garage to tear it apart.

    Also, does anyone know where to get some decent shocks for the front? It's the ZR2 version. I don't want to spend a lot of money on them since we will probably be spending money elsewhere on the truck, but we put on 23,000 miles/year and I'd like them to last at least another 100,000...
  • pneumaticdpneumaticd Member Posts: 1
    I decide to replace the Rotors/Calipers on the front disc brakes. Cleaned wheel bearings, repacked, and reassembled before replacing the Rotors. The left caliper and brakeline reassembled with no problems. The right side is another issue.......I have been through 8 new washers and purchased a new banjo bolt.

    The problem....it won't stop leaking. I even took the caliper back where I bought it, frustrated that no matter what I tried it would not seal and not leak.

    When I take the banjo bolt out and look at the washers(using new ones each time) I have a contact problem of some sort, the indentation of the concentric rings on Caliper, brake line, and bolt do not appear evenly across the face of the washers.

    The only thing I can think is that the "lip" on brake line is not seating properly...before I spend money to have someone fix it in 20 minutes, I thought I would quiz some owners.

    Thanks!
    Joe
  • tiggboytiggboy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 S-10 2.2 Liter 4 cylinder. That I am re doing the engine. Now I am ready to put the pistons back in. I forgot to mark which way the pistons faced. Had the block, the crank and pistons looked at. All were still good. Using the original pistons. :confuse: Any help is welcome
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    If the washers are copper anneal them, heat with propane torch until red, then immediately quench them in water. They will now be soft.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    If there is any mark on top of the piston, that is front. If not it's your best guess, were the rod caps marked or did you mark them before you removed them. Maybe you can remember by where the caps were marked.
  • tiggboytiggboy Member Posts: 2
    There is a mark on top. but it is not centered toward the block. it is a little offset to the top. like at 10:00 o'clock. And it almost looks like a dollar sign. Not like an arrow or just a simple mark. it also has numbers on top of the piston. thinking have the numbers and that symbol facing toward the front of the block. I forgot to mark or remember which way they faced. thanks for the help
  • pealypealy Member Posts: 1
    my dad has a 1995 S10 pickup and his temp gauge isn't reading correctly, and am wanting to find out where the sender for th gauge is located. it's a V6, 2WD. thanks for any input
  • tjessetjesse Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    Just registered here after buying my first S10. It's a 1996 black ext cab with a 2.2L 4 banger. Thank god I got two V8's in my garage because the 2.2 is...not....powerfull haha!
    Anyway; I was hoping to get in touch with Nineline. My S10 has the same ticking sound when idling but at 1300 rpm it appears to go away. First I thought valve lifters but after reading the mssg of nineline I think it's the same as ninelines'! Also used a stethoscope and the sound is loudest/definitly coming at cyl #4 (closest to the firewall). Oil is 5w30. Anybody with some experience with these engines,please reply!! Don't want to replace lifters or re-invent the wheel if it's something else.

    Many thanks,

    Tjesse,
    The Netherlands, Europe.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    A dumb thought ... Did you check at night to be sure you do not have a "Spark Jump" near that cylinder (Wire to block). Just a thought ...
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi all,

    I have a 2002 Sonoma and I will shortly need some new tires (And I just replaced a ball joint after only 41K miles .... )

    The Wranglers I had from the factory I never liked .... I was thinking of the Michelin Cross terrains - an arguably better tire - but a little more $$'s Anyone have any experience with these on the S10's/Sonoma's??

    Consumer reports rates them just so so, but the overall specs for wear / noise, comfort are high - as are quite a few consumer references on line....

    OR - am I Just going to waste good tire money after changing more and more front end parts and just trash'n these tires as well ??/

    Thanks,
    Canufixit !!!
  • gmmmmgmmmm Member Posts: 1
    I just bought my daughter a 2000 extreme 4 cyl auto. When driving it to get inspected, I "lost" overdrive. 1st, 2nd and 3rd seem fine. If I put the trans in 3 it will shift normally the gears. Any suggestions, solenoid etc.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Thanks for the detailed reply ..

    Here is some more Info
    - I mostly (99% ) drive paved roads.
    - Do use 4WD in winter .. occasionally
    - Past Michilins I've had (on Autos not trucks) have approached 100K miles with no issues to date on multiple sets ...

    Overall, I've had good luck with Michelin - the slight cost vs the wear and great ride has always been the sales point for me.

    But. I'm considering all you said - and still have not made up my mind ...

    Anyone out there have Michelin Tires on their Truck ??

    Thanks All!!!

    Canufixit
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles