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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dennisdixondennisdixon Member Posts: 5
    I received a letter from GM today telling me how sorry they are that I am not happy with their decision (normal operating condition). The letter tells me I can go to the BBB for arbitration.

    Keep me posted on any new happenings with your situation. Anyone else having these problems?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    I have a 2002 Crew Cab and if you tell me the problems you are having with fuel gauge I will check mine to see if it operates the same. Perhaps I could provide a letter to you if mine operates differently and this would help to support your position that your truck has a problem.
  • scoops2scoops2 Member Posts: 4
    Moparbad, the problem I have is when the fuel level gets below 1/2 tank
    and you stop and park the gauge sometimes shows empty and the low fuel light comes on. I have shifted the truck from drive to neutral going down the road and the gauge goes all over the place. Now this problem does not happen every time but there have been times when I haven't
    known if I have a 1/4 or 1/2 tank of gas .
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Could be a ground problem.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    My gauge reads slightly right of F when completely full, when it is at 3/4 it will take 3 to 4 gallons to fill it, when at 1/2 it takes approx. 8 gallons to fill it and when it is at 1/4 it takes approximately 11 gallons to fill the tank. It does not vary from 1/4 to empty when it is on the last 1/4 of a tank and does not go all over the place. Overall, the fuel gauge is the least accurate of any of the 20 plus vehicles I have owned but it does not have the same sypmtoms yours does. GM would be well served to review the design and operation of the fuel gauge on the S-10.
  • scoops2scoops2 Member Posts: 4
    Moparbad, the problem I'm having may be on the 2001 models only, I have filed a case with BBB and we'll see what they come up with, I wouldn't mind if they give me a 2002 model in exchange for my 2001, but I was afraid the 2002 may have the same problem. Thanks.
  • the5carthe5car Member Posts: 26
    How can you classify what you describe as
    'least accurate' ??? My '97 S-10 came with
    what the owner's manual claims to be an 18.1
    gallon fuel tank. The numbers you provided
    pretty much supports that capacity, and quite
    accurately reflects my experiences.

    Even if you're gauge works perfectly, I would
    recommend that you fill your tank, run it
    down to almost empty, fill it again, figure
    out how many miles to the gallon you get,
    multiply that by your tank's capacity, reset
    your trip odometer at every fill-up, determine
    what your vehicle's mileage range is, and not
    worry about what your gas gauge says so much.

    I'm getting around 27mpg lately, so I know
    that after 450 miles or so, I should consider
    getting some gas, regardless of what the gauge
    indicates....

    JMO....
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Your point is good, what I describe happening with the fuel gauge does not explain very well the inaccuracy of the fuel gauge. When I fill up the truck the gauge reads slightly to the right of F and then by the time I drive 24 miles the needle is just to the right of 3/4 and there it will stay until I drive 60 to 70 miles total, once it reaches 3/4 it gradually will go to 1/2 and then it likes to stay there until I get to around 170 miles, sometime around that point it will rapidly go to 1/4 of a tank. When it is at 1/4 it will take 11 gallons to fill the tank and then when it reaches E the most I have been able to put in the tank is 12.5 gallons.
    But, it does NOT move from 1/4 to E or E to 1/4 when it is being parked nor does it move all over the place. So while I believe there are problems with the fuel gauge I don't have the same problem as scoops. I have owned other vehicles that the gauge would not go all the way to F or E, that if you waited for E you would be walking, and that when they reached E you still had a large reserve of fuel. The 2002 S-10 is the first one that has a fuel gauge that with favorite areas where it likes to stop and rest and then rapidly goes to it's next favorite area.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Not just talking about fuel gauges, but alot of various types of gauges read the most accurate at midscale and read a little off at both ends, also the fuel tank shape messes things up because it is not a constant cross-section size from the top to bottom, My truck goes from full to about 3/4 very quickly and then slows down from 3/4 to empty. When the tank is nearly empty there is only an inch or so in the bottom and that probably doesn't help the float either. It would be good if Chev could make the gauge accomodate for the shape of the tank, and for the very full and very low condition but they don't seem to be able to,,,
    From what I have seen they deliberately set the low fuel light to come on a little early to help people avoid running the tank too low which lowers the full level in the tank and allows the fuel pump to run hotter as well, remember the fuel pump is cooled by the gas in the tank too, helps the pump last longer if you don't let the level get too low too often
    Good mornin
    Rando
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    >remember the fuel pump is cooled by the gas in the tank too, helps the pump last longer if you don't let the level get too low too often<
    If that was true they would have the guage "E" when the tank 1/4 full,just another myth.The pump is cooled by the fuel passing through it and it sets in a sump.
  • kraaschkraasch Member Posts: 1
    I have just bought a new 2001 S-10 ZR2 W/ the 4.3 Vortec and only 640 miles. I have notice there is a loud noise and vibration coming from the rear of the vehicle, but when I shift it into 4wd HI the noise and vibration go away. has anybody brought it back to the dealer for this problem and if so what did they say. Thank you.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    Also the fuel return line dumps the excess fuel from the regulator back on top of the pump as well. You are right that the fuel in transit helps do the cooling and the pump sits in a "well" of fuel, but having a larger "bath" of fuel makes a bigger difference on that pump temp.
    any cooling the pump gets helps in the long run, and of course they normally last longer than the warranty period,,,so the mfgr gets to say "yes the pump is 20 bucks and the labor is 150, thankyou very much"....probably being very forgiving on those prices too!!!
    Keeping the pump submerged will let it live a little longer, but yes you are right about those details you mentioned, they do help.
    I think we all wished those pumps were air-cooled
    but I guess that would add another 50 bucks and save the 150 labor charge for us home mechanics huh?
    see ya
    Rando

    Kraasch:
    your under warranty buddy, get back to the dealer to let them here it and fix it before something else vibrates/wears,,,noises sometimes come from NOT where you hear them.
  • cwp1cwp1 Member Posts: 3
    I am trying to help my dad out. He has an '83 S10 (2.8 V-6, 2 bbl.)that runs rough or dies after about 1 hour. He has replaced fuel pump and filter, vacuum hoses, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, and catalytic converter. He says no improvement. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    The best thing you can do for the fuel pump is change the fuel filter every 30 K,the extra load on the pump burns out the commutator and brushes from high current draw.
    Most people wait until the engine starts losing power,hard on the pump.
  • jim4444jim4444 Member Posts: 124
    Thats unusual, after an hour trouble starts? The only thing I can suggest is check the timing or take it to a pro.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    backpressure is a killer too,
    keep gas in the tank, and change filter regularly, and cross your fingers,,,,
    I think we both are on the same page here.
    See ya
    Rando
  • meistermanmeisterman Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 extended cab and have been having problems with the passenger seat not locking properly. If the seat it not moved back all the way and there is someone sitting in the seat, it will always slam back, it never locks. I have been to the dealer, and they replaced the rails, but the problem persists. They said that it had something to do with the frame being bent and that the seat was not on track. I brought it back again and they told me they had fixed it but once again it does the same thing. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and would appreciate any help. Thanks
  • the5carthe5car Member Posts: 26
    I changed mine last spring....be careful with
    the pressure...I opened my fuel cap to relieve
    the tank pressure, but that did nothing to the
    fuel that was already in the line...I ended up
    with a face full of gas...it's a very simple
    installation though....

    Oh yeah, I have a '97 S-10 LS w/2.2L....
  • rmyers76rmyers76 Member Posts: 34
    Heres a little tip: find the fuse that controls the fuel pump. Pull out the fuse and crank the vehicle for a few seconds to relieve some of the pressure in the system. You won't get all the gas out, but it will not be under pressure when you remove the fuel line.
  • yellowdryellowdr Member Posts: 41
    I really have enjoyed this 2001 crew cab s10 dispite the "beating" that it gets from the Edmund reviewers....comparing a v8, and vehicles that cost $3000 more...I guess the S10 does seem kinda pale by comparison...however...

    Chevy should fix the stupid gas gauge. After 1/2 tank it often drops to below empty!! Usually with 4 gallons remaining.

    I'm glad that I discovered this before my road trips so I avoided unnecessary pit stops.

    I get 20-21 mpg on road trips including town miles as well. About 16mpg strickly in town.

    Nice truck but Chevy has been aware of this gas gauge problem for a long time and can't seem to fix it...no excuse in my opinion.
  • jim4444jim4444 Member Posts: 124
    I've heard its because the fuel cools the pump, but still they should give you an accurate reading. If it bothers you that much ask the dealer if theres a fix for it.
  • guadeloupeguadeloupe Member Posts: 5
    the problems some of you guys are having with your Chevys. Unbelievable.

    I'd like to pass along this story to show you Chevy/GM once had a heart regarding reimbursement for out-of-warranty repairs.

    I bought a 1982 GMC S-15 Sierra (same as S-10 but different badges, yes?) new in '82. 5 speed, V-6. Drove it only 6K a year and just sold it last month with 116K on it. Aside from five (5) Clutches (no, don't ride the clutch) and four (4) sets of brakes it was a pretty good vehicle.

    At 53K and nine (9) years old, warranty expired, of course, I was driving on the freeway with my then 10 year old daughter. Heard a high-pitched Twinnngggg and pulled over. All well. Looked fine. Back on the freeway and up to 65MPH. Whamm! Transmission locked solid!

    No control, rear wheels locked and sliding toward a cliff but instead, luckily, hit a berm of dirt and stopped.

    Front and rear wheels bent by the berm.
    Transmission toast. Driveshaft/u-joints/carrier twisted and more to the tune of $2,000.

    A tooth had broken off one of the gears in the tranny and lodged between a meshing pair, Locking it solid.

    With very little hope that GM would do anything, I took a shot anyway. Through a month or two of letters and phone calls they agreed to split the cost with me! Got a check for $1,000!

    From reading this thread, it looks like those days are gone. But, you know, what goes around comes around. When will ALL the automakers realize an inferior product coupled with poor customer service and total indifference to customer satisfaction will sink their ship. I think some of them are sinking as we speak......
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    We bought a new Blazer a couple months ago. Salesman pitched and we jumped on a three year warranty extension. Took it to get the intial service last week, a 28 dollar oil change. On the way home my wife remarked that this was the first time she ever saw me pay someone else to change my oil. Well, it dawned on me that I have absolutely no confidence in GM quality and only had the dealer service to insure the warranty coverage on the engine. Pretty sorry state of affairs at GM seems to me. We both concurred that we would probably have been better off buying a used vehicle, tried and true, or buying a different brand this time around. Thirty years of owning GM vehicles is hard to shake I guess.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Change it yourself and save the receipts,cheaper that way.
  • dougsblu65dougsblu65 Member Posts: 6
    MAY 2001 WE BOUGHT A S-10 CREW CAB. BECAUSE MY WIFE WORKS AT GM WE HAVE BOUGHT CHEVYS BECAUSE OF PRICE BUT I WAS NEVER WILD ABOUT THEIR SERVICE. THIS TIME THE CHEVY DEALER WON. AFTER ONLY 6 MONTHS SOME PAINT FLAKED OFF THE FRONT OF THE BOX, BETWEEN THE CAB AND BOX LEAVING A SPOT OF SOLID RUST. MUST HAVE BEEN POOR PREP WORK AT THE FACTORY, ALSO THE CHROME ON THE FRONT BUMPER WAS COMING OFF. THEY REPLACED THE BUMPER BUT THEY PRYED THE RUBBER MOLDING OFF THE OLD BUMPER WITH A SCREWDRIVER, RUINED IT AND PUT IT ON THE NEW ONE. TO FIX THE RUST THEY JUST BRUSH PAINTED OVER THE RUST WITHOUT EVEN SANDING IT AND SLOPPED PAINT ALL DOWN THE SIDE OF THE TRUCK. WHEN I TOOK IT BACK AND COMPLAINED I WAS HOOKED UP WITH THE MANAGER THAT WAS OVER BOTH THE SERVICE AND BODY SHOP MANAGERS AND HE TOLD ME HE WOULD MAKE SURE IT WOULD GET DONE RIGHT. THEY KEPT THE TRUCK A WEEK AND GAVE ME BACK THE BIGGEST MESS I EVER SAW. THERE WAS RED OVER SPRAY OVER THE ENTIRE TRUCK (TRUCK IS WHITE), THEY TOOK THE BOX OFF AND MOVED IT BACK ABOUT 10" TO FIX THE SPOT, BEAT UP THE BACK OF THE CAB, KNOCKED MORE PAINT OFF THE BOTTOM THAN THEY WERE FIXING, OVER SPRAYED THE BACK DOOR WITH WHITE, DIDN'T CLEAN THE BOX SIDE AND CLEARED OVER DIRT THE FULL LENGTH, GOT PAINT ON THE REAR BUMPER CAP, BED LINER, TOPPER AND INTERIOR, TRIED TO WHEEL THE HOOD AND RUINED IT AND ONE COWL, BOLTED THE BOX BACK ON WITH ONLY 3 BOLTS, TRIED TO ADJUST A DOOR THAT WAS HITTING THE ROOF AND MADE IT GRIND ON THE STRIKER (THERE'S MORE , I'M TRYING TO KEEP THIS SHORT). WHEN I COMPLAINED AGAIN THEY WANTED TO WORK ON IT MORE, I DECLINED AND SPENT 30 HOURS CLEANING IT UP MYSELF, THAN I TOOK IT TO A PONTIAC DEALER WITH A GOOD BODY SHOP TO GET THE PAINT WORK FIXED. THIS WAS A LIKE NEW TRUCK WITH 6,000 MILES BEFORE THEY STARTED. I WROTE LETTERS TO CHEVROLET, SENT SEVERAL E-MAILS (ARRESSES PROVIDED BY A FRIEND THAT WORKS AT CHEVY), CALLED THE CHEVY HELP LINE AND I HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM ANY OF THEM. I DECIEDED TO TRADE IT FOR A FULL SIZE CREW CAB AND WENT BACK TO THE DEALER TO GIVE THEM A SHOT AT KEEPING MY BUSINESS, THEY AGREED TO GIVE ME THE 5% OF STICKER CHEVY PAYS THEM PLUS OUR GM DISCOUNT AND 1580.00 OVER BLUBOOK FOR MY TRADE. I HAD BEEN SHOPPING AND THIS WOULD BE THE BEST DEAL BY FAR, BUT IT HAD A CATCH, I HAD TO BUY FROM THEIR STOCK OR ONE THEY COULD GET FROM ANOTHER DEALER. THEY KEPT ME ON A STRING FOR TWO DAYS WHILE SHOWING ME TRUCKS ON PAPER ONLY TO TELL ME THEY COULDN'T GET IT. SO IN THE END IT WAS A GREAT DEAL ON A TRUCK THEY DIDN'T HAVE, COULDN'T GET AND WOULDN'T ORDER. CHEVY WON, I PICKED UP MY NEW DODGE A WEEK AGO, I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GM PRODUCT AGAIN, DISCOUNT PRICE=DISCOUNT SERVICE.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Last fill up the tank was below E and filled up total 13.8 gallons. Filled totally full and topped off. Get into truck next day and the gauge reads just over 3/4 tank. In a 17.5 gallon tank I would not expect to have a 4 gallon reserve when the tank is empty. Also, I can not seem to break 18 mpg even if I drive a constant 60 mph. My friend with supercharged Tacoma 4x4 double cab is getting 20 mpg average on hiway and up to 23 mpg. And the fuel gauge is accurate. I'm jealous. Other than fuel gauge and mileage I am happy with the S10.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    sounds like your problems are bodyshop/dealership related. I know i know it should have never had the problems in the 1st place but still 1 dealership is doing the repair work.

    Also try turning the caps lock button off

    much easier on the eyes
  • mckeownscmckeownsc Member Posts: 15
    Does anyone know how to reset the computer in a 93 s-10 blazer. There was some work done to it that made it run a little rough and i was told to try to reset the computer but dont know how to.

    Thanks in advance
  • rmyers76rmyers76 Member Posts: 34
    All you have to do to "reset" the computer is to remove the positive battery cable so the system looses power. Hook it back up in a few minutes and it should be reset.
  • nubira1nubira1 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 01 ZR-2 with the same exact gauge problems everyone has been stating. I took it to the dealer and they said it was normal. After many complaints to actually look at it they decided to replace the sender. That didn't do anything to fix the problem. I have learned to live with it now.

    Has anyone else had a noise on the driver side behind the dash board? It does it at about 1200 rpms. It sounds like a wheel turning that is also grinding. The dealer couldn't find anything wrong. Sometimes the power steering doesn't work at idle. It seems to be linked to the noise. Of course the dealer found nothing wrong. Any of you had this problem?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Are you people having fuel guage problems have the plastic fuel tank?
  • amrep1amrep1 Member Posts: 1
    My 90 S-10, 4.3 auto just turned over 250K, still does not burn any oil or leak any fluids. trans works great and everything works good (I bought it new and it has been one heck of a good
    truck that I use for work everyday). For some reason it has developed a problem with only
    lukewarm heat coming from the heater, even though the engine is fully warmed up..I recall at
    one time there were a bunch of people posting messages with this heater problem..anyone
    recall a fix????
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    do you smell a sweet smell in the cab?

    My dad had this problem about a yr and a half ago. i cant recall offhand how he fixed it
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Hi, anyone else ever have a problem with your S10 4.3 engine and a leaking intake gasket? My sister's '97 was experiencing a slow loss of coolant, never any exterior leaks, finally after a couple months, the engine developed an occasional knocking noise. Took it to a Chevy dealer who in turn found that coolant was entering into the internals of the engine. As I type this the truck is at the garage with a large portion of the engine disassembled and looks like our best route is a Goodwrench crate motor, at a cost of about $4500 including installation. This bites-truck only has 47k, and is in great condition,and well maintained. I am aware of GM having problems with many of their V-6 and V-8 engines and leaking intake manifold gaskets, when will they get it right!!
  • dougsblu65dougsblu65 Member Posts: 6
    I had a 2001 S10 with a 4.3, at 8 months, 7,000 miles I was fed up with it and lack of chevrolet service. Mine was starting to get that "sweet smell" in the interior with no visiable loss of coolent. The smell is antifreeze burning. Rather than to go through the hassel of trying to get chevrolet to do something about it I relied on my 15+ years of experience with chevrolet service and decided to take the loss now and traded it for a Dodge. A modern day well maintained engine should go 100,000+ easy. If you have maintance records I would get a lawyer and go after chevrolet, they should at least pro-rate the engine and pay half. It is useless to call chevrolet customer service, that service is only designed to wear the customer down until they get it fixed on their own or just give in and pay the long dollar. I only bought chevrolets because of gm employee discounts but in the long run it's not worth it. Get a lawyer, it's the only thing they understand. And because they can't get it right and won't make it right with their customers is why they keep losing market share.
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    You are correct, we will persue having GM assist in the repair costs. There is NO excuse for this type of problem, especially with the low mileage and being well taken care of. The vehicles our family has owned over the years have for the majority been GM products, but this will most likely change. I have a couple relatives who work in GM shops and the stories they can tell of problems with GM cars. They both drive vehicles other than GM, and no trouble with them.
  • eoghaneoghan Member Posts: 4
    I just learned I need a new fuel tank on my 95 extended cab(50K). The plastic shield which covers the front half of the tank trapped sand and leaf particulate and held them against the tank. It corroded from the outside. GMC Customer Service and the dealer were no help as apparently they think owners should expect to replace fuel tanks($500) with greater frequency than exhaust systems. This is a fire hazard as well, allowing fumes and MTBE loose in the environment. I suggest any owners remove the shield and blow it out before the rust gets out of hand. Does anyone know who to contact if GMC customer service stiffs you? I registered the fire hazard with NHSTA.
  • dougsblu65dougsblu65 Member Posts: 6
    I've been in the same boat, always bought GM because of my wife's GM discount. By 97 after 3 new chevys over the previous 9 years I was so fed up that I bought a full size Dodge pickup. I had always thought all new car dealers were the pits, come to find out it was only the chevy dealers. In 2001 I let my guard down because I couldn't resist the 7400.00 in discounts, (GM gas tank pay off, GM card earnings, rebate and GM discount) and bought the S-10 crew cab. No way is any discount worth the poor overall quality and the way they treat you, never again. After several letters to chevrolet it was clear that they just don't care. I took a big loss and went back to a Dodge and the quality in the paint job alone is amazing. Keep us posted on your 97 4.3, I would like to hear how it comes out, good luck.
  • dougsblu65dougsblu65 Member Posts: 6
    I had a 86 full size chevy pick-up that I bought new and took exceptional care of and the gas tank did the exact same thing after about 6 years. You would think they would learn. I took the tank out myself and took it to Gas Tank Renu. I think they are nationwide. they take the old tanks and sand blast them inside and out, weld the holes and coat them with a rubber type stuff inside. Of course the chevy tank problem was so common that they kept a dozen or so on hand all ready to go. They swapped the sending unit, put on new gaskets, fuel lines and ground wire right while I waited and it was under 120.00. They change tanks too, I would try them before the dealer.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Any long time GM owner knows that every spring you remove the gas tank shield and wash it,and the tank will stay looking new,mine is due for this year.The new plastic tanks excluded.
  • wvengineerwvengineer Member Posts: 3
    I have a brand new 2002 S10 extended cab 4x4. The easy entry feature of the passenger seat does not work. My dealer's service department said that feature is no longer provided and the seat no longer slides forward unless you move the front adjustment handle. I had an earlier '97 model extended cab and the easy enty seat was a great feature. The 2002 brochure states that the feature is standard equipment on the extended cab.

    Anyone else having this problem? Am I being lied to by the service department like I think I am?
  • wvengineerwvengineer Member Posts: 3
    I have a brand new 2002 S10 4x4 with the 4.3V6 and only 1250 miles on it. The engine has a rattling sound at idle when in gear. It sounds a lot like a jar full of marbles being shaken. The service department at my dealer said it was the cam drive system, loading and unloading of the balance shaft. A GM service bulletin says that the noise does not present any durability risks to the engine or any of its components.

    Anyone else having any rattling noise and getting the same story?
  • jim4444jim4444 Member Posts: 124
    Loading and unloading the balance shaft? Thats a bunch of you know what.

    The balance shaft is connected to the drivetrain, above the camshaft. Theres no loading and unloading of it. The 90 degree V6 needs a balance shaft to reduce vibrations, and having driven a 90 S10 without a balance shaft I can tell you it works.

    Dont know whats wrong with youre truck but it sounds like the dealer doesnt want to take the time to find out whats wrong with it.
  • nubira1nubira1 Member Posts: 13
    See if it rattles when you turn the wheel all the way till it stops. Mine has a noise at idle that I think is the power steering. When you turn it see if it is the same sound that you are hearing. Mine does it around 1200 rpms.
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    My '97 x-cab is my first and last GM product (*!*#! GM card discount). When did they go to plastic tanks? This is the first I've heard about cleaning the tank shield. Is it as simple as removing the shield and hosing the shield and tank?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Easy 1 nut and remove the shield,just hose off the shield and tank if dirty,i do mine every spring so just the shield needs cleaning.
    The plastic tanks are quite new,my 99 Sonoma is metal,but either 00 or 01 they went to plastic.M y 00 Cavalier has plastic.When they go to plastic you lose almost 1 gal in fuel capacity the plastic tank is about 1/4 in thick.
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    I'll give the ol' shield cleaning a go this weekend.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Member Posts: 593
    That's a good bit of advice!
  • cajun626cajun626 Member Posts: 54
    I pulled back the shield and two small rocks fell out. I have two pea-sized areas of surface rust on the bottom front of the tank. This may be a dumb question but here goes...can I sand/brush off the rust and put something on these spots so that they don't eat through the tank? Should I just start putting aside money for a new tank instead?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    what yr truck do you have?

    I thought the gas tanks were made of plastic?
This discussion has been closed.

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