Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

1323335373840

Comments

  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    re: "Does anybody have an idea of what exactly was happening? " (A/C issue) ....

    I'll take a guess (as That's all I'm good for these days ..;-) "Normally" the vacuum lines are under Vacuum - so theoretically - anything in the lines should be sucked to the engine - but when the engine is off - the vacuum goes away and "vapors" may migrate up the lines. GM had recall many years ago (76' ?) - and they had to put a check valve in the vacuum line for the Power Breaks booster vacuum line - the power break membrane was getting damaged ...

    So ... It's possible that leak back vapors from the vacuum system is affecting the seals and the switch body - or perhaps even the hoses and vacuum motors ??

    Mine is a 02 (Made on fall of 01) - and it's 4 .5 years old now and has 42K + miles... no issues with my vents... Of course it could be a switch issues (material too senstitive to the engine vapors ... and needs a material change)...

    What's your Year Vehicle ???

    Canufixit
  • e3mcgrathe3mcgrath Member Posts: 1
    The mileage on my cluster works when it wants to. I have been told there it a light behind it but when I took it out, I did not see a light. Am I going to have to replace the whole cluster?
  • kcarlsonkcarlson Member Posts: 2
    Could anyone tell me how much gas milage I should get with my 2000 S10, 2.2L 4Cyl, burning E-85, driving on the highway 90% of the time. Right now I'm getting between 17 and 18. Someone else in my situation told me he gets about 25. I was wondering if I could get a few more averages to see how far off I am.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi BigAL

    I think this is good good news for you .. Rotted out Rubber holes or Motor Diaphragms seldom fix themselves. So.. it "might" just be a sticking part. Be sure to cycle the selector through each range (leaving it at each position for 5 minutes or so). - it my just be sticky and work it's way out if exercised ...

    re: Mw / my tires - Tires appear to be fine .. (Toyo A/T's). Apparently I got two out of round tires (Very Visably out - but now replaced) along with a poor install Job (Bad tire gauge = low tire pressure, 1 Leaky new valve stem damaged at install and over inflation (they "thought" it should have been 36psi Cold w/ max at 44 - tire is actually 36 Max and I set at them at 32 PSI per my gut and the door sticker...)
    Ride is muche better and no shakes/shimmies ..
    But it should not have to take multiple trips to Town Fare to fix - all of these should have been caught on first installation - if they used adaquate checks - in my opinion ...

    Canufixit
  • vince443vince443 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S10 with 4.3 engine. The fuel sending unit won't turn off even after the ignition is turned off. I have to pull the fuse 20Amp #9 to get it to stop. I pulled the Fuel pump relay and it still stays on. Problem not in the relay. The manual says that the power comming from fuse #9 is hot at all times. Can a defective oil pressure switch keep the circuit closed and keep the fuel pump running?
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    It's a 2002 4.3L V6 ZR2. Currently, it has 100,000 on it, but the problem started at 26,000 which is why it was fixed under warranty thankfully.
  • natinicknatinick Member Posts: 2
    I am about to atempt to flush my radiator on a 2001 Sonoma 2wd , need to find the petcok. Does anybody know where it is?
  • natinicknatinick Member Posts: 2
    Can you tell me where to find the petcok on my radiator? 2001 GMC sonoma 2wd. Looking to change fluid!
  • nomad1976nomad1976 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2001 GMC Sonoma that I've owned for 5 years now. I recently had to change the alternator on it. It's got the 4cylinder engine in it, and that meant I had to take out the splash guard on the passenger side wheel well. this wasn't too bad, but I had to disconnect the battery, extra coolant resevior and a piece of electronics that must have run the compressor before I could get the splash guard off. After putting on the new alternator and putting everything back together again, the truck runs fine, except now the compressor doesn't engage when I try to turn on the a/c. Usually I can see the rpm's go up 100-200 when I do, but now the blower is all I get. And during the summer, that just don't cut it. Any help would be greatfully accepted.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    On my 99 2.2, it is from front drivers side, look down between rad cap and air filter box.
  • twellmantwellman Member Posts: 3
    I just picked up a 93 sonoma w/4.3 V6. The digital dash doesn't seem to work. The warning lights work, but the tach, speedo, oil pressure, gas gage don't. Checked fuses, they're OK. Where to look?
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    My Suggestons;

    Fuses are a good place to start - as you have multiple issues here - that, hopefully, - have one common issue to fix.

    Check you library for the body and chassis manual for the vehicle - many larger libraries may still order them. Full schematics and locations of fuses, relays, etc + debug charts!! (I have a hard copy for my 2002)
    Alternatively try alldata.com. A Vehicle specific site for about $25 USD for the first vehicle /per year. Most of the diagrams are there and you can print them ... A Trial area is there so you can see what you would get. Most of the manuals schematics are online as well as recalls, TSBs etc ...

    As for the cause - again I'd look for 1 common issue here .

    - Bad Ground to the panel area.
    - connection issue - Cable/ribbon cable loose at the instruments or any where from there to the computer ..
    - Cut cable on dash steel edges, etc ..

    AND - most important - was anyone in the dash recently ?? (Radio fix/change, polking around under the dasd , etc. etc ...)

    Be sure to look for ALL the fuses in the Body/Shop manuals - often they may have others (or isolation relays) hidded under the dash - in the glove box etc ...

    Let us know how you make out !!!

    Canufixit
  • rustler51rustler51 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find a TSB on the internet for adjusting the latch and if so where? My latch is not broken but the latch at the top sticks. Thanks
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    I've got it ... Put your E-mail in your profile so I can send it to you .... Or - tell me where to post ...
  • andyr80andyr80 Member Posts: 1
    (2001 S-10 4.3 4x4)When I'm driving 1-15 mph, I hear a clunk noise from the rear of the truck, it sounds like like it clunks on every rotation, I'm thinking its from the rear differential??? Any help?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I need to go back to the drawing board on my electric fan conversion. I was really proud of how I took some junk yard parts and made it all turn out. However, when I drafted up my wiring schematic I neglected to take into account the A/C condenser. Not an issue during cool months, but in 90's plus weather while using the A/C it becomes a big issue. So the first thing I'll need to do (after deflating my head) is to get the repair manual out and check out wiring to the A/C relay and see where I can tap in for a fan signal during A/C activation. I'll let you know how it turns out.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I had a GM that did that. It took a new coil to fix it. Another time I had those same problems "after" tune up. Come to find out one of the plug wires I replaced rubbed against an exhaust return tube to the EGR.
    Good Luck.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    The compressor won't kick in if its low on freon. You might be a little low and need to top it off.
    Good Luck.
  • skyethorskyethor Member Posts: 3
    I have had the same trouble. Where is the tccm located? the dealer i went to said its buried under the dash and would take 4 hors to replace. I have had the switches replaced on the dash three times and this last time it is not the problem.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Bummer ...
    And please forgive my rant ... How can American Companies expect to sell vehicles in todays markets when you need A half day (or More) to get at many of the components (many that never last much longer than the short warranty they provide!). This issue along with the inability to change heater cores (without complete dash board removal) , fuel tank pumps (without taking many of the truck beds off), etc - has got to have driven away many many of the past "USA Made Only" car buyers ... I for one will never get another GM - and perhaps any American designed Vehicle for that matter... The terrible Ball Joint issues are bad enough ... but the day my dash needs to get pulled - I trade or scrap it and bring my money elsewhere ..(Rant Off)
  • skyethorskyethor Member Posts: 3
    yep i agree most american cars i have had were waiting to fall apart. My wife had a 1999 Ford Taurus. Replaced the transmission, then the main bearing seal needed replacing, then the wipers would turn on by themselves when you made a left turn. Of course all thsi occures after the warranty ended.
    Well The dealer on my Chevy said the dash had to be taken out to get to the TCCM, Bull [non-permissible content removed],i found it behind the passenger side kick panel, he just wanst to charg 4 hours of labor for a short job, I do not need 4wheel drive very ofen so i just did waht i was informed to do, Just disconnect it for a few minutes it worked fine for one day. The 4 wheel drive will shift if you put it into neutral and hit the button.
    Also the tail gate cables rusted apart. They recalled all the larger trucks but they said the s-10s do not hold the cargo weight as the larger trucks. Its a design flaw, they dipped the STEEL cables in a plastic coating so when it get wet the plastic coating holds the water. The dealership told me to buy a new set. I even complained the the national hwy safety admin :lemon:
    Hell no. I got some galvanized cable and fixed them myself.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hey All,

    Get a load of this ... Site:
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm

    You gotta go to the site's "Defect investigations" -and put in Chevy Sonoma (go figure ??)

    I've got no notification - have you guys ??

    Quote from PAge "

    NHTSA Action Number: NHTSA Recall Campaign Number:
    EA05008 N/A
    Make: CHEVROLET Model: SONOMA
    Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
    Year : 2002
    Component :
    LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:TAILGATE:LATCH

    Date Investigation Opened : April 14, 2005
    Date Investigation Closed : May 19, 2006
    Summary:
    GENERAL MOTORS IS CONDUCTING A "SPECIAL POLICY" PROGRAM FOR 903,464 OWNERS OF 2000 - 2003 MODEL S/T VEHICLES THROUGH WHICH OWNERS MAY, AT THEIR OPTION, EITHER (1) PERIODICALLY INSPECT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES INSTALLED IN THEIR VEHICLE AND HAVE THE CABLES REPLACED IF THE CABLE COATING EXHIBITS ANY INDICATIONS OF DAMAGE OR DETERIORATION OR (2) REQUEST THAT THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. GM WILL HONOR ALL REQUESTS BY OWNERS WHO OPT FOR REPLACEMENT WITHOUT QUESTION REGARDLESS OF THE CONDITION OR APPEARANCE OF THE CABLES. GM HAS AGREED TO MAIL REMINDER NOTIFICATIONS TO OWNERS EVERY TWO YEARS UNTIL THE TAILGATE SUPPORT CABLES HAVE BEEN REPLACED OR UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS 12 YEARS OLD. ODI'S INVESTIGATION INDICATES THAT A SIGNIFICANT MAJORITY OF THE REPORTED COMPLAINTS (87%) AND INJURIES (94%) HAVE OCCURRED IN MY 2000 - 2003 S/T VEHICLES

    End Quote"
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    Yes! And it will kill your battery, too, if you don't catch it. Happened to me on a 1989 S10 4.3.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    What was the Fix ???
  • charlestondrewcharlestondrew Member Posts: 3
    i just aquired a 2001 chevy s10 single cab and at times the truck wouldnt start for atleast 15 to 20 tries. but the gas gauge reads 1/4th of a tank. when the tank is full i have no problems starting the truck. but after about 230 miles the gauge reads anywhere from 1/4th to 1/2 a tank and i have trouble starting the truck. could it be when the tank goes low on gas that there are lots of sediment that is blocking the fuel pump? could it be that my gas gauge is mis reading? i am perplexed. so i have been refilling the truck with gas after i reach 200 miles to a tank full. but i want to correct this problem because its just anoying. does anyone know what the problem could be and if its a DIY or should i take it to someone.
  • cs_tarheel34cs_tarheel34 Member Posts: 3
    Recently, my turns signals stoped working all together. They wont blink they wont even come on. I checked my fuse box for the Turn Signal one and that seems to be working. I am thinking its the Flasher located under the steering column but I am wondering if there is one in the Fusible links box under the hood? Can someone help me out with this please? Thanks you
  • cs_tarheel34cs_tarheel34 Member Posts: 3
    So what exactly are the fuses under the hood? ARe they the fusible links located in the box under the hood? What wire would that be inside there cause there are about 5 or so?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Sounds like the HVAC heater core went. Since you now have no HVAC of any kind (other than vented outside air), that would be my first check point. The black smoke and unburned fuel was probably a result of the engine being too hot, so try not to run it if you can.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Hmmm... front leak, no HVAC except fan, black smoke...

    If you weren't smelling coolant from the vents, next check points are water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hose connects.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    If the 01 has a radiator cap, remove and see how low the coolant is.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    The oil pressure sending unit was shorted. Replaced under warranty.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    I had that problem in my 99 Sonoma. Found the wires on both sides of the transmission were ripped apart. Only thing I can think of was a dog trying to get at a cat who was climbing up in there. Repaired the wires and all was fine.
  • sblasicksblasick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 s10 zr2 4 wheel drive, 4.3.... it only has 34,000 on it but my question is i hear gurgling sounds behind the dash, im almost sure its from the heater core, any answers if this is correct and or what to do?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    I would get the cooling system pressure tested first. You may have an air pocket in the system. Just a thought.
  • cs_tarheel34cs_tarheel34 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know where this is located in a 96 GMC Sonoma extended cab? I have an idea where they might be at but I dont wanta rip into the dash without knowing for sure.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    Look between the radio and glovebox behind the panel. There are several relays under there on my 96 S10 ext cab.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    If it's a V6 4.3, the petcock is at bottom on passenger side. It is very irritating to get to and operate.
  • crashfj55crashfj55 Member Posts: 1
    There are 2 flasher located below the radio one for the turn signals and one for emergency flashers. You will have to drop the bottom trim panels from the drivers side all the way to the center.
  • oldpawdadoldpawdad Member Posts: 14
    You are correct. Thanks!
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Pressure from the full radiator (hot, expanded to the brim) will push the extra coolant into the overflow tank. Vacuum, when it contracts/cools, sucks it back to the radiator. With you lower hose gone - no vacuum .... hence full tank.

    The hose (if it popped off (and not wiggled loose) - was probably the weakes link in the system when under pressure... The question is - did it overheat from coolant loss (i.e., Drips, minor leaks = low coolant = engine overheat) or is something else wrong that caused a full system to overheat (plugged radiator, bad thermostat,, etc ...). If it was low coolant - over time - then the over flow tank should have worked ... So I'd get the system flushed, pressure tested, etc. - and hope the engine is OK .... Good Luck
  • jjs342jjs342 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 2.5 4 cyl s10 with the 5 speed and it will not go into four wheel drive I can pull the stick for the transfer case and it will not go into four wheel drive. Any idea how to fix it and what could be wrong. Any help will be great. Thanks
  • 99s10slow4bang99s10slow4bang Member Posts: 2
    My S10 seem to be running alot hotter than it did before. It used to run at like 1/4 of the meter which I think is pretty cool. I changed the oil to 20w50 since its got 104K now. Right after I did the tune up it ran great and the oil pressure raise a little bit. But after that it started to run alot hotter like a 1/4 more on the Meter.(sorry for not being specific) But it still ran good, Then I got a check engine light which turned out to be a Misfire on one of the cylinders (code P302) so i changed the spark plugs and the ignition coil and like its supposed to after 4 ignition and power down cycles the light went away if no misfire is detected. The problem now is that it still runs hot and does not give me good power it's like I have the hand brake on! All this and I think I might just be asking about the oil (Im using Synthetic 20w-50) 2.2L 4banger using Bosh Platinum, 8mm cables)
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    GM says nothing above 30 wt oil, 50 wt is looking for trouble. I ran a 2.2 on 5W-30 for 120K no problem. The original plugs are the best for the 2.2. If all this happened when you made changes, back track. My 99 temp runs between 1/4 and half, which is about 195 deg F, straight up is 210 deg F.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    The only thing I would use 20w50 in would be a dying engine with a rod or main that's on it's out the side. Unless, your talking a high performance racing machine which would be a different realm all together.

    As for the loss of power and increase of engine temp, I had the same thing happen on a car with a bad catalytic converter. When I replaced the converter everything went back to normal.

    Good luck
  • 99s10slow4bang99s10slow4bang Member Posts: 2
    I guess your right about the oil It started heating up right after I started using it. Now its just gotten a little hotter, The loss of power might also be a result of the oil. I hate to just throw away that expensive oil but I guess I'm gonna have to. My truck has also been sounding a little louder so the catalytic converter also might be having some problems. I love this truck. I got it with 40,000 miles 2 years ago. Now it has 104k and it's the first time gotten any problems. Well thanks guys, will change the oil and see if any changes.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I don't think the heavy oil is the reason for the loss of power and excessive heat. But I do think on start up the heavy oil is hard on things like valve train and oil pump. Especially if it was in cold weather. I know what your saying though about not wanting to abort the synthetic oil considering the expense and all. It being summer time, if it were me, I would go ahead and run with it. Then the next time switch back to a lighter weight.

    A lot of times just having loss of power causes the engine work extra hard trying to keep up with demand. That in turn causes the engine to run hotter.

    A bad catalytic doesn't necessarily equate to louder exhaust. An exhaust leak such as a cracked exhaust manifold, faulty exhaust gaskets, or holes in exhaust system is usually where the noise comes in. A bad cat converter causes an obstruction and restricts the flow of exhaust. This in turn causes poor performance and poor performance causes excessive heat. It's kind of like you jammed a shop towel in the tail pipe. If you have use of a lazar thermometer, shoot the temp of the exhaust pipe where it comes off the manifold and compare that to temp of the cat converter. If there isn't a measurable difference then I would say the cat converter is suspect.

    When you had the plugs out did you run a compression check? Did you isolate the cause of it missing? Sometimes running a compression check can tell the tell.

    Good luck
  • dstangdstang Member Posts: 4
    I have a general question, I was looking to replace my Radiator which has An upper and lower radiator hose, two connections for transmission, and one hose about 1 inch in diamater which I do not know it's function. Any help? should I be concerned?

    Thank you,
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Generally speaking, I haven't came across anything like that yet. However, if you can't find a replacement that matches, you might consider taking it to a radiator shop and having them rodding it out and fix the bad spots. Sometimes they have to change out the core. They'll give you a like new guarantee when done. My guess would be the 1 in. hose is for a heater core, if your vehicle has one. Is it off a truck, car, road tractor, gas, diesel?
    Good luck.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Where is the 1" hose connector on the Radiator ?? Top, Front, Rear, Etc ??
  • dstangdstang Member Posts: 4
    On the same side as all the other hoses come off. It is located between the lower radiator hose and the upper transmission line.

    Thank you,
This discussion has been closed.