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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
thanks much
Leigh H
thanks for posting and sharing tips with me we are lookin for anything we can do to fix it :shades:
thanks again
Leigh
Thanks alot,
Jeff
Thanks alot,
Jeff
thanks much
Leigh
If reverse was OK before the filter and fluid change they may have knocked off a solenoid connector, if so back track
Jeff
You might check the underneath. Has it been off-road alot? One time I hit a chunk of metal in the road that put a big dent in the cat converter (among other goodies) that caused internal damage to the converter. The result was poor performance due to restricted exhaust.
Good luck.
Tailgate cables; Mine broke when I was standing on the tailgate (Thankfully I was not handling a heavy object or I could have been seriously hurt.) The Factiory cables are not sealed at the crimp ends - so when the tailgate is shut - water can run down the cable (iniside) and sit inside the cable covering and just rust the cable and you don't even know it .. Dangerous if you ask me ...
You should at least "Feel" your cables over its full length and try to fee for rust buldges ...
On this site someone posted a link for NAPA (I think) for replacement cables - I bought a set and kept them - and then had to use them !! The cost - I think - was about 15 Each (maybe less) ?? But the b!tch is changing them. You have to remove the latches from the ends of the tailgate (Get inside the tailgae to disassemble the rod linkages), remove the latches and then mill off a pressed in stud to remove the old cables (new pins and E clips are in the NAPA kits.)
I got lucky on the install and had not real issues (but you could drop the rods and internal parts in the tailgate if you are not lucky !) and I also have a small milling machine - so it took me only about an hour+ to change these ... But I expect two or more hours for others who have to fudge with the studs and have less tools - and have worse luck.
To all - Please at least CHECK your cables !!
Regards,
Canufixit
My inputs.... And I agree with previouos comments ...
"Usually" the Auto transmisison fluid is changed once well before 100K and then left alone - unless there is a real need to change it (i.e. burned or othe issues ..).
In fact many of the std repair and fluid shops I know just will not change the oil once it gets well over 100K - because of the issue you are having - "it "was" Ok and now there is an issue " - and the shops just do not want to get caught up in that. (Regardless if the fluid change itself had any connection to the issue - as a transmission with lots of miles could have a many issues happen at any time - and the oil change facility does not want ANY issues being pointed back at them for the little thay make on the fluid changes ....)
With that said ...
As it "Was" OK - and it started so suddenly - I would suspect the oil change. I'd immedately check the fluid level (On a flat parking area, Engine and Trans Warm - and the dipstick level correclty seated and read - multiple times.)
FYI - The amount of the fluid to change depends on the type of fluid change process done (just by draining is different than also changing the fluid in the Torque Converter, etc.) - Regardless - if you check the level properly, nnow that it's been driven a few miles - proper oil level can then be confirmed and possibly excluded as an issue. (If it was driven on very low fluid level - that maybe a cause of your issues as well... The Transmission uses the oil for Pressue, lubrication AND cooling) - Also - does the new oil look and smell OK ?)
Secondly - as thebigal and others eluded to - when you change/ do something and then immedately have a problem - I ALWAYS go back to the last thing that was done/changed/fixed, etc and re-check everything again.
When you remove the Transmission's oilpan - they are working very close to shifter linkages and vacuum solenoids, etc. as well. Bumping these, cutting/cracking/bending these - or disconnecting these - are all real possibilites and easy to repair. You need to have someone look under the vehicle and around the transmission (top, bottom, sides, etc.) for any loose or broken slit/cracked hoses, Shifter linkage not bent/broken disconnected, etc ... and chack the Engine compartment as well !!! (near the oil fill hole - and check all vacuum hoses !!)
Also, I did not like the comment that the old transmission oil smelled burned when changed - it may mean you had a problem already with the transmission - but not necessarilly. Oil old that may have been over worked and possible overheated due to an engine overheat may cause the oil to breakdown smell burned anyway - and if so - it really needs a well deserved change anyway.
And Finally - If the above is not the soultion - before I drove it too far (and maybe make it worse) - I'd take it to a reputable shop that will re-change the oil and screen and have them look around the underside as well. They may find an easy fix (i.e. oil pan gasket / screen is incorrect one - or incorreclty installed, foreign matter in the screen (The did not take off all the cellophane wrapper) , etc.) - and they may see a slice in a vacuum hose, etc - and hopefully they basically just charge you for the transmission service (What's that cost now - $100 to $200 at the dealer ??) This would be money well spent if it fixes the problem - and if not - it's not a whole lot of money in todays repair dollars - and you can then decide if it's really the tranny and decide to replace it, trade it in (if possible) or scrap and by another vehicle ...
Hope this helps !!
(people always call me and say ... Canufixit!!)
Each Came with new hardware. Just remove the Latch, grind off the rivet - change cable w/ new hardware (Sholder bolt + e Clip).
10.99 ea for a 2002
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&Part- Number=8195739&Description=Tailgate+Support+Cable
Mine does something similar - but only when cold at startup. It did this since it was new. The "Dealer said" this was a "start up sequence" when cold. It turns the fan on for a minute or so - to exercise the fan clutch / circuit - and then the computer (knowing the engine is cold) keeps it in lower gears a little longer to, I believe, give you the power at low RPM until it warms up a tad. Usually after a cold start and a very short drive (a few hundred yards or so ) this goes away. I have no issues later at any other time (i.e., high way)speeds). I do not even notice if / when my air compressor kicks in when the engine is warm - but my fan minght kick in when ever I have the AC (or defroster) on - I'd have to confirm..
I'm kinda wondering if your temp sensor /circuit is OK - the computer might think it is in start up Mode all the time and keeping the fan on, keeping you in gear a little longer and of course probably give you some extra fuel (that's normally just gioven at cold engine start) - this might expain the bog, the shifting and the low gas mileage ... By the way - I get 15- 18 MPG in rual driving and about 19 MPG onthe highway (with out A/C or Defroster on). This seemed to be normal for others I polled (I have a 2K2 4.3 ext cab).
Just my thought ...
Canufixit
You had overheating problems - I think you were all set - but wanted to ask ....
Canufixit
My Suggestions on the post you reference are my best advice "in General". What I recommend is that you take to the Dealer (or perhaps ask a couple) and ask their recommendation. They may back up my earlier advise - or - they may suggest another oil change. Providing that they look it over first, decide it has no issues and guarantee the change of oil and filter will not cause an issue - I'd spend the extra dollars they charge (vs a quick lube shop) and have it done at the dealer.
I just don't like changing the oil at over 100K unless there is a reason to do so... I belive my manual list the initial change at 60K and then nothing after that is mentioned...
The Auto Trans, in my opinion is a fickle part. Providing you do do not cause an issue (overheating the engine/transmision cooling) and don't beat on it - it's still a dice roll - you either have a good one for life - or a bad one. I've run my last few vehicles up to around 160K with only the fist oil change as specificed by the factory ...
So go to the Dealer - and let us know what they say - and what you actually do ...
Canufixit
One quick thought - At nightime in a dark area when it's runnning rough - Open the hood and check to see if you see any sparks jumpoing off the wires (and if you do DO NOT touch these until the engine is down ...). 3-4 years old now - possible a wire is cross shorting or loose on a plug ..??? We need more info ...
Your front end and linkage (Tie rods, Connecting link, Control Arms, etc.) must hold the tires in the specified position. If the tires can toe in and out so it "can't be driven" you have major worn part here. I'd be reluctant to even drive it to a repair shop if it's that bad. So, Push/pull it to a decent alignment shop and have them check out the fron end and give you an estimate - although for it's age the repain my be more thant the truck ...
Canufixit
if you do it yourself there is going to be a big mess, so get a box and line it with trash bags. this should do the job for the fluid.
Any input is welcome!
Also why would the cigarette lighter blow a fuse everytime its pushed in? i can put my phone charger in it and it will work. crossed wire somewhere? how can i find out where.
Rick
Checked voltage to ICM and coils, never looses voltage. Had ICM checked out at auto parts store. Tested four times in a row to make sure unit was warm. Tested good all four times.
Checked coils as per manual with an ohm meter, both checked good.
Checked crank sensor as per manual, checked good.
Plug wire resistance checked within specifications but varied a lot. Plugs looked ok. I will replace them both for good measure.
HELP! Please!
2015 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.
Using these as clues (and assuming you are not shorting out on multiple speaker wires. ...) I'd say the issue is not in the speakers/doors - but at the Radio (Common Speaker connector is loose or dirty/bad connection - Especially and common return wire for the speakers (depending on series/parallel speaker hook up)).
Power and Ground seems ok as it's always on ... Therfore, I'd check the connectors on the back of the unit - possibly unplug and re-plug the connectors. You may be able to get at these from under the dash - but you may have to go through the front (remove the radio/Dash bezel, etc.). Also check to see if you can get there through the Glove box - you may be able to remove the box liner and get in fromthe side. (Be careful ! /you do not want to launch the Air bag !!)
Another thought may not apply to your vehile - but the later models also have "SCV" or speed control volume (the faster you go the greater the volume to compensate for road noise.). This may be "Muting" volume if disconnected ?? (Just a thought!)
good Luck and tell us wht you find !!!
So there are a number of cables for the Radio (Lights (dim at night when the head lights are on), Speed sensor wire, Power, Ground and of couse the speaker outputs.
You've checked a lot - and all looks good (I feel for you ..). You comment on the no spark gave me a thought. If it was going to stop for a problem - it should give an error code - so maybe there is none (to the computer)??. Can you check the "On" wire circuit from the key switch to the computer and the IGN on signal from the computer to the ICM ??? Perhaps it thinks you shut off the key and is just shutting down ??? (i.e. intermittant contact/wire, etc.)
Just continue to drive it for a while (do a few rough roads as well) and occasionlly during your drives cycle the selector switch through each setting (letting it stay at each stop for a few minutes.) It might loosen up.
alternatively - you can check for vaccum at the vaccum motors - but you''d have to get under the dash for that - also check the vaccum lines for cracks and splits - especially at the ends.... Get a Chassis manual from GM (or Try alldata.com on the net) and you can see where the vaccum motors are and how to get to them ....
If you get the chance - ask them what about persons like me - I replaced mine, after they did rust out, with after markets (as their's broke and I did not trust their replacements as they did not acknowledeg a problem). Will they swap out/ check ones that were replaced by actual failures and if not replaced by spending big buck at a dealer for their "Not a problem" original parts?
Thanks,
Canufixit
Most all Rear ends whine, the preload (shims) in the pinion grar to the ring gear cause a lot of this issue. If they are not properly "pre loaded" at the factory the whine will get worse as the mileage goes up. This can be fixed by a tech (re set / add/remove shims). Also - per the GM S10 manual - this truck has a sweet spot at about 35 to 45 mph - that's when it's the worse ..
You will not hear this when it coasts ... Also as there is little insulation (Noise insulation) in these trucks - the road noise, tranny and rear end noise are a lot more noticable in the cab. If it's real bad, and getting worse - I'd get it checked ...
2015 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.