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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
First, if he can't remember when he last changed that fuel filter, do that TODAY. Fuel injected cars need much higher pressures than older engines with carburetors. A clogged filter can really reduce the pressure, and put a lot of extra load on the pump, causing it to wear out.
Next, add a quality concentrated additive to the gas tank. Ignore the hype, cute bottles and megabuck advertising you see on TV or in parts stores. There is an additive called BG 44K that many new car dealerships use on their customer's cars. It is not readily available at places like AutoZone or Pep Boys, but you can get it online. If you can't find it in your area, go to www.cambridgeauto.com or www.bgfindashop.com to order it. Yes, it is expensive (about $20 per bottle) but this is the real deal, not a late night TV miracle-in-a-can snake oil cure. BG 44K cleans the injectors as well as much of the carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves. You will actually feel a huge improvement in 50-100 miles.
Next, you need to clean that throttle body. Get a can of Berryman's B12 carb and choke cleaner at the parts store. Remove the snorkle and air hose, and with the engine running, spray this stuff all over the inside of the throttle body and plate. Keep the engine running by opening the throttle as you spray it in. Then, with the engine off, open the throttle all the way, and clean both sides of the throttle plate and all around the inside of the throttle body. Let the truck sit about 15-30 minutes, and then restart it and let it run a few minutes. It will be very hard to start at first because you have just dumped a ton of this stuff in the engine, but it does work.
If he is still not happy with the performance, have the fuel pump pressure checked. I'm not sure what the idle pressure should be on that engine, but I would guess it should be in the range of 35PSI at idle. Also, make sure it keeps pressure once the engine is turned off. If the pressure is low, he may need a new pump. If the pressure drops immediately after you shut the engine off, the fuel pressure regulator is likely bad.
Another suggestion is to use a good engine flush at the next oil change after you do all of these things. There is probably a lot of unburned gas getting dumped in the crankcase, diluting the oil and adding a lot of sludge. When he changes the oil, add a can of Restore to the oil. It's great for high mileage engines.
Good luck!
Joe
Mike
What concerns me, however, is that I'm seeing paint just flaking off in obscure area that don't see direct contact with debris. Like the lower edge of the tailgate, the front side of the box, betwen the cab and box.
Anyone else seeing this on their trucks?
I asked the service manager what that was all about and he said that the S-10 series suffered from "a lot" of rear differential failures.
Now, I have known people with better than 100,000 miles on their S-10 series trucks that have never had a problem. My son, who was the unfortunate owner of two S-10 PUs, never had a problem with the rear differential, either. Plenty of other problems, but not that.
I have known two individuals that have had a S-10 rear differential pop. I don't remember the miles on them since this was a while ago, but both were out of warranty.
I think you will find that rear axle failures are more than likely the result of incorrect machining or assembly from day-one that will affect a certain percentage of units manufacturered. Ford, Dodge, and Toyota have had problems in this area, too. In fact, Dodge use to buy rear axle assemblies from GM for the full size RAM (American Axle) some years ago and they had about a 4-6% failure rate, which is just about the same for GM full-size trucks.
Toyota Tundras are not exempt, I might add. About four months ago I saw one changed out at my Toyota dealership.
Regards,
Dusty
Repacking front wheel bearings on 2wd is required every 30K, i did mine last year.Not sure on 4wd they may be sealed.
What date was your 2002 built? Check the door jamb for the month and year. Does the noise occur only on startup and then go away or all the time in traffic? Finally how hot is it when this occurs?
Engine and tranny are running loud. It almost stalled at a light the other day. I'm clueless.
Any thoughts??
I checked the fluids in the transfer case and rear axle, which is a locking differential, and they are fine. Anybody have any ideas what this could be?
Please let me know if you hear anything....
Thanks!!!
I posted all of the gory details under the "Hard Starting Chevy S-10" thread in the Maintenance and Repair discussion topic. Bottom line is that the fuel pump had to be replaced after only 40,000 miles. Cost of pump...$544, labor to diagnose problem and replace pump...$345. Total including tax and a couple of nuts, bolts and gaskets...$975.
Four months ago, I had to replace the front wheel speed sensors, to fix an ABS problem. $130 for parts, and 3 hours of my time to do the job. $1100 in the last 6 months. This truck is killing me!
IMHO, you run the risk of spending a lot more than you can afford by trying to keep a high mileage vehicle running. I'd try to sell it, and find something a little better.
All of this has been done to a 41,000 mile truck! I can only imagine what it would take to keep this running for another 100,000 miles!! I included the cost of the last three repairs, as the vehicle is now out of warranty, and it's out of my pocket from now on.
Thanks
If it is not a limited slip differential, then it is possible it is water.
Now, I have a question for all you other good folks. My S-10 developed a strong vibration between 55 - 70 mph. The problem began prior to the new tires being installed and persists with the new tires so I can eliminate the tires as a potential factor. I checked the wheel bearings and determined that they are fine and the Chevy service department has verified that fact. There is no vibration in the steering such as you'd expect from a front alignment problem. I am the sole driver so I know the wheels and chassis haven't been abused. Could it be a rear wheel alignment problem? I'm at a loss; please help. Thanks in advance.
Despite the fact that your truck hasn't been abused, you might want to check for a bent rim anyway.
On older Chevies, sometimes a broken motor mount would show up as a speed specific vibration.
Dusty