Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

liltrkbighp · November 2004

it'll take it! how long and heavy is your trailer

liltrkbighp · November 2004

i need parts for a five speed and actually the five speed that backs the 4.3 fi

hategm · November 2004

I've got a 97 S-10 with 187K on it. I've replaced the trans after carrying a load in OD. Use 3 gear when carrying 1000 lbs or more. I put air shots on it and raised the rear end about 2". In doing that I developed a rattle between 22-28 mph. Now have oil leak in rear end. Not sure if its realated to air shocks or 187K catching up on it.
One of the best trucks I've ever owned. 2.2 Liter gets good gas mileage. 27 on high and about 20 city. She will never win a race, but she always been there.
Too bad they retired the S-10. Those new Mid size trucks are junk.

christopher71 · December 2004

I have a 1999 S-10. the left side tailgate cable broke. I bought a new one, but can't pull the latch out of the tailgate because there is tension on the latch. The latch is hooked to the tailgate handle. How to I replace this latch without destroying the tailgate?

alcan · December 2004

Document ID# 390324

1999 Chevrolet/Geo S10 Pickup - 2WD

Support Cable Replacement - Endgate (Pickup)

Removal Procedure

Safely support the endgate in the open position.

Remove the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the endgate.

Remove the endgate supports from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

Install the endgate supports to the vehicle.

Install the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the vehicle.

Tighten the bolts to 2.8 N·m (25 lb in).

Install the bolts that retain the endgate supports to the endgate.

Tighten the bolts to 2.8 N·m (25 lb in).

joe3891 · December 2004

Your post is confusing, first you mention broken cable, then handle and latch. The cable is attached with 2 bolts. Save your cable receipt, a recall is being looked into at this time.

leg1969 · January 2005

hello hope that you are happy with this truck i have a 2002 4x4 truck and now the problems are adding up it has 60,000 miles on it first differential problems and now the transfer case has gone out boy talk about money problems . about better gas milage change the air filter under the hood and that will help your gas milage a whole lot .

leg1969 · January 2005

yhello i hate to tell you this but it could be the transfer case or the differentail in the rear of it i own a 2002 4x4 crew cab and now the problems are adding up

leg1969 · January 2005

hello i own a 2002 chevy s10 crew cab 4x4 pickup and i have never had problems like this hope somebody can help first the rear balol bearings went out so i replaced them and now the transfer case has gone out and when i call ed the dealership to see if it was under warranty of course they said no i only have 60,000 miles on it don't anybody use 100,000 mile warranty on things like this any more so now i, pulling my hair out cause seems like every time i turn around something tears up on it somebody pleaser give me some answers of what is going on

jpf · January 2005

The wheel bearing problem is a common problem on the 4 wheel drive S10. On the 2 wheel drive models, the wheel bearings are greased and repacked with a brake service. On the 4 wheel drive models, I believe the wheel bearings are self-contained and are supposed to be lubed for the life of the vehicle. Unfortunately, the bearings usually go between 60 and 100 thousand miles. I would check your owners manual to ensure that no periodic service is required for the wheel bearings. Good luck!

stormz8 · January 2005

I recently bought a used 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab 4x4. The truck is loaded and the mileage and price were right. The only problem is that the Gas mileage sucks. Really sucks. I thing the truck is getting like 12mpg. Runs great but eats gas. Anybody got any suggestions. I am switching to AMSOIL and an AMSOIL air filter soon. I hope that will help.

kimo2 · January 2005

i have a question for you all should my truck have any problems starting if the EGR VACUUM CTRL SOLENOID is no working i noticed that one of the outlets the hose connects onto was cracked so stupid me played round with it and it snapped clean off now it wont seem to start .

jae5 · January 2005

There is a strong possibility that it won't start. Did you try to tape or re-attach it temporarily and then try to start (electrical tape my hold it long enough for a start)? Is the engine cranking or is it totally dead?

The problem may be that since you engine is not sensing a vacuum signal from EGR, or pulling too much vacuum, it won't start. Don't believe the EGR is electronically controlled. What year and engine type?

s-dime51 · January 2005

I was wanting to put a 2-3" drop on my truck but i was wondering if all the lowering kits are universal. by universal i mean through all years because i would hate to spend $150 on a lowering kit when i can spend alot cheaper else where. any information is welcome. THANKS

driftracer · January 2005

is to get a copy of Truckin' or Mini Truckin' magazine - they have gillions of vendors, and you can figure out the best way to do your drop. My advice is to stick with named brand components, like Bell-Tech or Rancho, to avoid cheesy equipment with no manufacturer support.

kokomos10 · January 2005

I have a 95 S10 vortech V6 engine code W 2 wheel drive I bough used Its been a good truck up until now. I took it to a place and had them run a diagnostic on it they told me it was the fuel injector. I then replaced it still running rough. It sounds like it has a miss or miss firing. I took one of those code readers it told me the air temp sensor was bad replaced that but still no help then I got the check engine back and ran the check again and the new code is P1406. Can anyone help me with this problem.

alcan · January 2005

P1406 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Performance

Remove the EGR valve and make sure the pintle's not being held open with a crumb of carbon. If it is, it can cause a rough idle and the P1406 code.

bdubs1 · January 2005

Got a question for all ya... I have a 2001 4.3 ltr zr2. Every 30-45 days I begin to hear a severe altenator noise from the stereo even if the stereo is off. This is then proceeded by the truck going dead once I shut off the engine. No power... I can jump the truck and it then starts to freak out, the gauges start fluctuating, every light on the dash starts to blink and ding, the head lights will go out and back on or the truck will die. I can then start the truck but it will sputter and die. What I have tried to remedy: cleaned terminals, replaced the battery, replaced the altenator. Once I do this I get another 30-45 days before the process starts again? Any Ideas???

bdubs1 · January 2005

Yo! I am having this exact same problem on my 01 ZR2 except for I can get mine to start... Here is what not to replace: battery, main wiring harness, altenator. I replaced all of those without change. In order to get my truck to start I have to re-seat all the connections to my altenator and battery and any other connections I can get to without removing the batter tray... It lasts about a week before I can't start my truck without the portable jump... Let me know if you find a fix cause I have tried all I can think of. Thanks

electricdesign · January 2005

Both you guys need to learn DIAGNOSTIC ELECTRICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING or else take it to a mechanic who knows electrical diagnosis. You have found out that you can waste a lot of time and money by not knowing what you are doing. You can throw parts at it all day long, and plug and unplug connectors all day long, but it won't do you much good if you don't get to the root of the problem. You need to start out with a 12 volt test light and a digital multimeter and check all wiring for Power, Continuity, Resistance and Voltage Drop and use logical electrical troublshooting techniques. You need to know the fundamentals of electricity and the application of the ohms law formulas. E=IXR, I=E/R, R=E/I You may need a wiring diagram of your vehicle. You might be better off to take it to a mechanic. It could be one of several possible things wrong, but most likely is a loose electrical connection. You need to check all the wiring starting at the battery and work you way out, checking connections at the starter, check fusable links, check power distribution boxes, check ground wire at battery, check ground wire at chasis and at engine. Good Luck fellas.

tommc · February 2005

Educated guess. Ignition switch. Pretty common in this series vehicles. Take to a dealer or good mechanic and ask them to check for this. Might save some money by steering them in the right direction, if this is actually the right direction.

montanamike · February 2005

Hi Folks, my 2001 S10 CrewCab w/ 33K miles (3.25yrs old) has been in 6 times now for 4WD problems. Last winter at 20K miles (Lemon Law + 2K) the 4HI setting wouldn't engage. The dealer fixed the TCCM (transfer case control module) terminals, then replaced the TCCM. Also at that time the gas gauge would drop from 1/2 to empty then recover, they replaced the Fuel Level Sensor. Also they replaced 4 O2 sensors then finally the 'stuck' thermostat and coolant temp sensor to fix a check engine light that kept coming back in a week. Also they couldn't duplicate the dash lights reseting wile driving down the road (its only done it a couple times since).

This winter the 4WD failed first snowfall, they replaced the TCCM twice, fixed the wiring twice, and today replaced the encoder motor and dash switches. Is it me or are these guys clueless? I scanned for similar problems on the web but no luck. GM was no help, but said I 'could try' another dealer. Oh, and the gas gauge drops out again! I love my S10, but this is just wrong. Sound at all familiar ?

xixiaoyu · February 2005

Hi, I'm going to rent s-10 for moving, and want to check if its bed can hold a queen size mattress? Thanks.

snoopytwo · February 2005

I HAVE A 94 S-10 107,000. FIRST OF MY PROBLEMS WAS.MY ENGINE WOULDNT TURN. SO I TOOK IT TO MY MECH AND HE REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP ON GAS TANK. THEN IT STLL WOULD NOT START, SO THEN HE SAYS THE FUEL INJECTOR WAS PLUGGED..I REPLACED THAT.IT FINALLY STARTED ,BUT THEN,THE SPEEDOMETER WOULDNT MOVE AT ALL AND THE ABS LIGHT STAYED ON. HE RESET THE COMPUTER. AND IT WAS FINALLY FIXED..NOT..I DROVE IT FOR ABOUT 5 DAYS AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON AND IT DROVE VERY ROUGH..IVE HAD THE EGR VALVE REPLACED.IM AT MY WITS END .SO FAR I HAVE A NEW BATTERY,ALTERNATOR,EGR,INJECTOR,FUEL PUMP.WHAT DID I MISS..PLEASE HELP!!! ALSO THERE WAS A ROTTEN EGG SMELL..THANK YOU ESTHER

ESTHER

electricdesign · February 2005

Please turn your caps lock off. I can hear you screaming from way over here.

84s10 · February 2005

I am the original owner of an '84 S-10, 2.8 liter V6, 5 sp, pick-up, 175,000 miles. Its been a terrific pick-up, very little problems.

The throttle light came on 2 days ago about 2 miles from home and the idle started racing and wouldn't go back to normal. I parked it when I got home and have not driven it since then.

I had to jump start it today. The throttle light is still lit and the idle still races but not as high as the other day.

I've been doing some reading and it seems to point to the TPS sensor, distributor or clogged fuel line filter. I did put some fuel line cleaner in the tank earlier the same day the problem occurred.

Anyone experience this problem and have an idea to what the root of the problem is?

jae5 · February 2005

Would check the TPS first. The pintle should be extended approx. 28mm (1.10 inch) from the base of the housing (it's shown in many repair manuals for the 2.8/3.1). Unplug it, clean it then place it back into the throttle body. If the pintle is out of position, the engine will race. I suggest this since it's a snap to do.

Next you can check the fuel pressure with a gauge, hooked to the schrader (spelling?) valve on the fuel rail. Not sure the exact pressure, again, verify with a chilton's manual from the library or online. Again, something very easy to do, some auto-parts will even check it for you.

thomast · February 2005

Anyone know the best way to replace a broken hazard warning switch on a 1995 S-10 pick-up? I snapped off the old one installing my son's radio. I purchased the replacement switch from the dealer, but can't figure out how to get all the plastic shroud off from around the steering colum. The bottom half comes off with no problem, but I can't figure out what is still holding the top half in place? I've seen some posts about taking a Dremel and enlarging the hole on the top of the steering column and replacing the button without removing the plastic, but I'd like to keep the plastic intact if at all possible. Thanks in advance for any help!

alcan · February 2005

The upper cover is held on with 2 Torx screws.

checkeng · February 2005

I've had the same problem with the 4HI. The first time it went, the Chevy garage told me the computer lost it's mind and needed to be reprogrammed. That didn't give me a warm fuzzy but I had no choice but to accept it. 3 weeks ago, the same thing happened. The killer is, that I may use 4wd, maybe 5 times the entire year. Seems like there is a bit more of an issue with it, than meets the eye. I'm sure, now that it's out of warranty, I'll find out the real problem and pay dearly. I'll let you know when I find out.

acephotog · February 2005

My problem started with idle problems When cold the truck didn't idle properly. I was told the throttle position sensor might be the problem. I ignored the problem for a while just giving the truck warm up time in the morning. Then my service engine soon lamp started coming on intermittently. Performance was impeded when the lamp was on. Then I killed the engine and tried to re start and it would turn over but no start. I replaced the throttle position sensor and still no start. Can any one out there help me with the problem. I still think it may have something to do with map or oxygen sensors. Someone help me.

s1095 · February 2005

i have a 95 s10 and it made the same noisy. i had to replace the clutch assembly because i thought it was a regular noisy. then it just went out going dowm the highway.

rootabaker · February 2005

I have a 1999 S-10 p/u w/6cyl. It starts, runs a few seconds then dies out. It has about 95k but had no problems until now. I tried pouring gas down the throttle body and it makes it run longer. The fuel pump seems to be working. I had the pressure checked and it puts out 60 psi. Has anyone else had this problem? Someone help me please!

electricdesign · February 2005

Check to see if the security light in the instrument cluster is flashing. If it is, then the ECM has locked out the fuel injectors for a 10 minute cycle. Leave the ignition key on for 10 minutes until the security light stops flashing, then turn off key for a few seconds, then try to restart, It may start or it may go into another 10 minute security cycle. Do the same procedure again. Sometimes you have to go through (3) 10 minutes cycles to get it to start, depending on what caused it. Then get to your dealer and have the passlock security system checked.
Good luck,
E.D.

foxracer · February 2005

could some give me some ideas of what can be wrong i gotta 03 s10 and it lost a engine power today and i am wondering what could have caused that

gmjon · February 2005

I have a 99'S-10 ext.cab that leaked thru the windshield and caused the AirBag lite to always stay on. I got the leak fixed at the dealership,but they said that the AirBag sensor got fried due to the water. Computer diagnosis doesn't see an error/AirBag lite on.I recently passed inspection?
Since then,I am still getting water coming into the truck thru both doors. I have replaced the door rubber weather strips that go around the door openings but am still getting water/ wet carpet. I know that the door sill mouldings have 4 holes for clips to hold the mlds in place.
How do you fix the waterleak? Replace the door sills? Would water find it's way in thru the sills? Everytime it rains,little pockets in the floor next to the door sills are always wet and water drips down under the vehicle.Also, the front seats are installed with a bolt that is anchored with a hole in the floorboard. Would this be a cause of a leak also? I 've got to stop the leaks before I change the AirBag sensor. Does anyone else experience leaks around their doors Jon Wiz

dfakin · February 2005

I have an 89 S-10 Pickup with a 4.3. I have some type of electrical problem. When I turn the key on to start it first thing in the morning the check engine light does Not come on after I crank on it for a little while it (the light) comes on and it starts immediately. After I drive it and kill it if I start it back up in a few minutes the light will come on and it immediately starts . but if it sets longer than 20 - 30 minutes it does the same as as a cold start you crank on it until the light comes on and it starts immediately. I would appreciate any ideas anyone out there has on this it has really got me scratching my head. dfakin

qa_guy · February 2005

Hello all, this is my first post to this forum.

I just purchased a 91 s10 v6 4.3 this weekend, it has throttle body injection with 200,000 (and some change) miles.

so my question is what can I do to improve my mileage from 13 mpg. I had a tarp stretched across the back to cover some tools, so I am going to check my mileage again with out the tarp (to see if the tarp was affecting my mpg)

I don't know much about the maintenance habits of the previous 2 owners. The person I purchased it from was rather clueless

Some things I have noticed is that it idles rough when it is warm and wants to stall when trying to back out of a parking spot (when warm). There is no glazing in the throttle body and the filters all look new. There are also new plugs and wires.

I am thinking that maybe the injectors are worn. But I don't know how big of an effect the injectors would make.

thank you

alcan · February 2005

I'd suspect a defective fuel pressure regulator, given all the symptoms. Can be confirmed by a high HC reading on an exhaust analyzer. Requires throttle body removal and partial disassembly.

robert01 · February 2005

I have a 01 and have found the same thing. The passenger side is on a slant due to me parking the truck on the street. The drivers side is dry. So I'm thinking maybe it the hood vent, for better words, right below the windshield that is leaking.
Its been raining hear in OC, CA for what seems like a month. I drive 57 miles round trip to work on freeways and don't see any leakage when driving.
I did find water in the rubber seal at the bottom of the door. Have you had any replies? Robert........

extremejunk · February 2005

it seems to me that my transmission is junk, but im not sure. I took it to have it looked at, but I feel I could be getting taken advantage of. Automatic, four speed tranny, when cold outside it will not downshift on its own, has to be done manually, once it warms up, if I shut the truck down and restart it, it will downshift just fine, but it never wants to go into drive, only 1,2,and 3 works, its almost like it slips through drive. not sure, I have been told that it sounds like a tranny modulator or something. anyone know anything?

extremejunk · February 2005

I have had the same problems with both of my doors,and I found that when I took the door latch assembly apart and just WD-40ed the living crap out of it and put it all back together it worked just fine. maybe this will solve your problems.

gmjon · February 2005

I live in Jersey,and am waiting for the weather to warm up a bit before persueing and repair at this time. The passenger side floor feels damp all the time after a good rain.The driver's side has a spot that pools water to the extreme right of the door sill plate. There's a small pocket in the floor between the seat and door sill plate that always wet. Wish I had an answer, when I do, I'll share it on this site! GMJon

alykat89 · February 2005

I am also the original owner of an '84 S-10, 2.8 liter V6, 5 sp, pick-up 252,000 miles. Whenever it's raining or even just damp, the motor loses power, enough so that I need to stop on the shoulder to warm the engine compartment. Travel another 15 miles, and the same thing. I've replaced cap, rotor, wires and coil. Am I missing something?

alykat89 · February 2005

I had similar problem with my 84 this year but it
corrected itself when I replaced the springs holding the exhaust to the manifold. I'm guesing
the sensors were confused like me. Anyway, idle is at 700 and no lights are lit.
It's a great handling truck after 21 years, isn't it?

bigrooky14 · March 2005

Hi all, My name is Matt, I drive a 97, 4 banger s-10 and I have a problem. A few days ago I noticed I was leaking coolant. Today i filled up the radiator and the overflow, and then looked underneath my truck and watched it stream out. I checked my radiator hoses to and from the engine, no visible leaks there. The leak seemed to be coming from the engine, possibly the lower part. Also, it leaks the most while running. When turned off, the stream turns into a drip, and eventually ceases. Any suggestions as to what the problem is (I have been told maybe water pump) please let me know. By the way if you didn't notice I am an idiot when it comes to cars.

buggs1 · March 2005

Hi everyone, I purchased a 97 S-10 a year ago, had it for four months when my transmission clutch plate broke. This expensive repair job has taught me alot about the problems associated with the S-10, that's the reason GM stop making them after 2004. Owners beware, the clutch plates in the automatic are not the best, according to the tranny shop I use. Gm had a bad design there.

buggs1 · March 2005

Likely it is the water pump. Have it checked before you ruin major things.

rbstm · March 2005

HELP..I am looking at a 1996 chevy s10 2whl drive,with the 4.1 ltr . It has 89000 miles on it with 5spd man trans. current owners take OK care of the veh, matained, but not over doing it. anyone give me some hints, or things that i might be instore for?

electricdesign · March 2005

You need to have a pressure test done on the cooling system. This is done by pumping air into the cooling system thru an adapter connected to a hose or else one that fits in place of the radiator cap. The maximum air pressure is just above the pressure rating of the radiator cap. I usually use about 16 pounds. The point of the leak will beome obvious at that pressure.
Most auto shops and auto stores have the testers.
Then just replace whatever is leaking. Replace hoses that show any signs of wear, including cracking, stretching & bulging.
Good Luck,
E.D.

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions