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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • mattn2mattn2 Member Posts: 4
    It sounds like you need to replace the injector filters in the throttle body. These are little screens that go around the injectors. It is usually about a 20 minute job to replace theses.
  • mattn2mattn2 Member Posts: 4
    the chirping noise you hear from the clutch is coming from the throwout bearing mounting arm pivot point. When the clutch was put in the installer should have liberally applied grease to the pivot point. It will not hurt anything to leave it as it is, it will just be annoying. Do not drive he the clutch partially engaged to stop the noise as this will lead to premature throwout bearing failure. No advice for the oil burn problem though. good luck
  • mattn2mattn2 Member Posts: 4
    I must be one of the lucky ones. I have had 3 different S-10's and never any major problems. My first was an 83 2.8L 4 speed manual, next was a brand new 96 2.2L 5 speed, which I gave to my sister with 70K miles, which she is still driving with over 170K miles on it, and I bought a used 91 2.8L 5 speed that now has 160K miles on it.

    The only things replaced on the 96 are the Power Brake Vacuum Booster, Water pump, alternator and a couple of clutches. It has drive California to Virginia pulling a trailer a couple of times.

    The only thing on the 91 is an alternator and a couple of clutches.

    Just a heads up though, don't think all S-10's are junk. Just remember that any make and model you look up on these forum boards are going to be about cars with issues, after all that is the purpose of these boards, to help people solve problems.
  • lingrenlingren Member Posts: 3
    it looks to be a single injector so would that still be the case?
    It does have a big hole in the muffler if that matters.
    Could it be a cataletic converter?
    Also chiltons reference to a lean o2 sensor is common a vacum leak or pressure regulator.
  • airpowrairpowr Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 1996 GMC Sonoma 4.3L. I do not have the owners manual so please bear with me. When I am driving with the air/heat off, there is air blowing through the floorboard vent. I'm not sure about the passenger side, but it blowing out of the vent next the the gas pedal. It is not driven by a fan, the volume increases as I drive. I had an old ford truck that did this also, but you could manuals close the vent. Is this the same for this truck? Can I stop this from blowing? Thanks in advance.

    JP
  • airpowrairpowr Member Posts: 4
    My interior ligts do not come on when I open the driver side door. The chime works when the door is open, so I guess the little switch on the door jam is doing something. Does anybody know why the lights won't activate? They work fine when you open the passenger side door.

    JP
  • airpowrairpowr Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 1996 GMC Sonoma 4.3L with m/transmission. It shifts fine, and everything seems okay, but it makes clicking and clanking noises when you shift gears. Besides the noise it shifts fine, the clutch feels normal also. Are these noises normal for these trucks? I haven't owned a GMC before, so I don't know.

    JP
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    My 99 will flow air out the floor vent with everything off, it flows hot air in the summer. I complained to the dealer under warranty and was told they all do it. I made them take me out in a new one and it did the same thing, they said when hot air comes out in the summer turn it on vent and modulate it, if its still to hot told me to use my a/c, great uh. Its a 2.2 l, great milage at $2.20 a gallon. :)
  • diver80diver80 Member Posts: 6
    i have a 95 s10 2.2 with a little more then 120k on it. does anyone know what code reader it is to retrieve the trouble codes from the ecm....GM switched the hook up for the computer from an OBD1 to an OBD2 but left the computer as a 1 ... im tring to find out why the motor hesitates when you take your foot off the gas
  • diver80diver80 Member Posts: 6
    i had a problem similar to that and it was my oil pump
  • diver80diver80 Member Posts: 6
    does anyone know what code reader to use on a 95 sonoma 2.2, it has an OBD2 hook up but it runs on a OBD1 computer.
  • lingrenlingren Member Posts: 3
    still looking for help to #610 above.
    1989 s10 2.5 4cyl
    thanks
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI,

    A few comments - Not sure if this helps ...

    Sounds like you are not getting fuel ... another reply suggested the in engine compartment, change the Fuel Filter ... If you can - while you have the line open (and BE CAREFUL HERE due to the line pressure) see if you can turn on the fuel pump and verify you actual have good flow - and check the pressure as well ... It may be that crap and corrosion from the tank (from sitting or may be someone dumped in some foreign matter ??) clogged the fuel filter under the hood (and the injectors). Also, I'm not sure , but there may? be a fuel filter in the tank ?? Again, lack of flow / pressure may indicate that this filer (if there?) is blocked as well.... IT really sounds like a fuel supply problem .... Maybe even the fuel pump??
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Just a thought .... Does this squeak/make noise ALL the time when you move off a dead stop - or only after you first stop, then go ?? If it's only after you apply the brakes and stop first - the rear end may be "Twisting" / torquing (along the wheel axis) whn you stop - then when you start up - the rear end "un twists" and squeaks due to the movement in the rubber attachment bushings ...
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    What I understand is the computer is read with OBD 1 scanner and you have to use a special cable. For 1994-1995 GM OBD-1 vehicles with a 16 pin connector uses a blue connector, so my AutoXray Manual states. :)
  • gordonrulesgordonrules Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 S-10 Crew Cab and the Check Engine Light just came on for the first time. Does anyone know how and where to read the codes on the computer so I can figure out what is wrong? I know this is easy, as I have done it on previous vehicles, it's just that I haven't had to on this truck and I can't find a website that will tell me. If anyone knows of a website where I can find this that would be great. Thanks in advance.
  • omahadriveromahadriver Member Posts: 1
    98 S-10 120K - Problem is with the oil system. Vehicle operates fine when driving but when stopped a light or idling the idle is rough and the oil gauge fluctuates but never goes into the red low. I have taken to dealership and they have told me that the vehicle is low in oil. So I add in oil between changes but is seems like it continues to occur even after adding oil. Could there be an oil pump problem? I have read on another board that there may be an o-ring on the oil filter adapter that is bad but there is absolutely no oil leaking that I can find.
    |
    Any ideas or suggestions? Is it a problem to just keep adding oil if the engine is consuming?
    |
    Thanks for the time!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's an OBD II vehicle, and diagnostic trouble code retrieval requires a scan tool or code reader. AutoZone will read the codes no charge. Post the code #'s and we'll go from there. Btw, don't buy any parts until it's properly diagnosed.
  • mitchek2mitchek2 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same truck but it is a 96 - the Position Sensor Code is now coming up after I replaced the actual EGR valve (it had alot of carbon build-up on the pintle). My next challenge is to find out where the sensor is located, and then where can I find one. Am I only chasing rabbits by trying to replace the sensor, or should I try another avenue?
  • 00xtreme00xtreme Member Posts: 3
    Whenever I take off I hear a screeching noise from the rear of my truck, it also happens after I break and take off again. I'm not sure if that is a usual noise from the u joints or the carrier bearing. Plus, I hear a rattling noise that might be going along with it but im not sure. The rattling is getting louder and louder. I have changed my shocks, my rear bearings, axle is fine, differential is fine, exhuast if fine and the brackets are all fine. The problem does not go away, it just gets worse.
  • diver80diver80 Member Posts: 6
    does it tell you what scan tool to use ???
  • choppercustomschoppercustoms Member Posts: 2
    I have a '94 S10 2.2. My truck starts fine and idles normal. But when I rev the engine it starts to sputter and backfire and the engine shakes really bad and the truck finally dies. After i start it it will start three to four times then i have to wait a few minutes before it starts again. I have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump is pumping. Im not sure what it is please help.
    Thank You
    .
  • olegredolegred Member Posts: 1
    First let me thank

    1. Creators of the forum
    2. Everybody who would care to give me some advice

    My chevy s-10 91 , p/u, 4cyl, 2.5 L started having problems starting in the morning especially on wet rainy days. One day while driving I turned the AC on and the truck died right there. I was able to restart it some time later but it would stay running only if I slightly pushed the accelerator. Ok. I made it home and changed the fuel filter (oh naive me). I started the truck and it ran for some time but when I turned Ac on it died again. And this time wouldn't start at all. Plus my headlights stopped working. I replaced the fuel pump (the stainer was blown and apparently there was no pressure in the line). Hooked the pump but no result. I think I've blown something in the electrical department. I thank you in advance for any suggestions. How

    How do i know that pump is getting voltage? how can I make sure it does/does not?
    How do I check the relay?
    What is it that I may've blown that shut my headlights? Voltage regulator?

    Thank you one more time
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    You use the OBD1 scanner, but the standard 12 pin connector won't work, so you need a special 16 pin connector. :(
  • airpowrairpowr Member Posts: 4
    I purchased this truck and it did not come with the manual. Could someone please tell me how quarts this truck takes so I can change the oil. Thanks in advance.

    JP
    1996 GMC Sonoma SL (V6)
  • pgoetz1pgoetz1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 GMC Sonoma which had a 5 speed transmission in it - I need to get another trans for it - My question is - What kind of transmission is this 5 speed and what other GMC / Chevy vehicles came with this 5 speed? Can anyone Help?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Any recycling yard with the Hollander interchange catalogue or software has the info.
  • diver80diver80 Member Posts: 6
    your transmisson is a Borg Warner T-5, probably the world class model, ...sorry dont know what other vehicles have that tranny in it...
  • xteme03xteme03 Member Posts: 3
    I think I know exactly what that stupid noise is. e-mail me if you still need it. otherwise I am usually signed on too! AIM: eatalargecorndog
    -Aaron
  • xteme03xteme03 Member Posts: 3
    what kind of squeak is it? is it possible that it is coming from the driver's side rear of the truck near the suspension? Cuz I have an 03 Xtreme and I had a similir problem, but I finally found it.
    My brake line/s were rubbing on the hanger near the back wheel (driver's side) I covered the hanger up with some rubber hose and bingo! No more squeak! I don't know if this helps, but if it does, you are welcome!
    -Aaron
    AIM: eatalargecorndog
  • arltralitearltralite Member Posts: 2
    The problem with your truck is most likely the CV joints in the driveshaft. If you look at the rear driveshaft, you will see it has 4 u joints. Between the two u joints at each end of the shaft, there is a CV joint (ball and socket). The u joints are probably fine but the ball is probably egg shaped and the socket is probably gone. If you let the problem go too long you might have to replace the yoke. I have had the problem twice, once on the front of the driveshaft and now on the back. A ball kit is $70 and the u joints are about $15 at NAPA. I would recommend scrapping the driveshaft and finding a longer one without the CV joints.
  • arltralitearltralite Member Posts: 2
    NAPA has replacement cables. Grind the old rivit off. The new pin has a snap ring.
  • chevy_guychevy_guy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 2.2L 5 speed transmission (which I traded for a 93 Camaro Z28 with a busted head). Since I have owned it,it has had a problem with leaking fluids which I did not know when I traded for it. It burns oil (I say it burns because everyone says it leaks,but never have i seen a spot of oil on the ground) leaks anitfreeze,and leaks clutch fluid. Recently I noticed a leak under the driver side door and today I was told that it is more then likely clutch fluid running through the transmission. If anyone has advice on this please let me know.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Should be 5 quarts including filter for 4.3L.

    Can verify at parts store or in Chilton service manual.
  • rynoryno Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light just came on the other day, this is the second time it happened. The first time it took forever to find out what was wrong, but it just ended up being that I had to have the computer reprogrammed. If this is your problem, your truck should still be under warranty.
  • waynorthsonomawaynorthsonoma Member Posts: 4
    just a bit of info for all who may have the same problems. Just back from the shop and the hissing sound I was a vacuum leak....part on order, still under warranty.....

    the other sound...."grinding from behind the dash" at first the shop guys thought it was the tach..after they got the dash appart.......nope......after a few hours and a couple of opinions they tracked it down the PCV valve....never would have guessed! anyway still liking the truck, bit thursty though!
  • waterislewaterisle Member Posts: 1
    Sonoma electrical problems:
    I just bought a 2002 GMC Sonoma with 50k miles for use in the Virgin Islands.

    The battery keeps losing charge in 14-18 hours. New Battery did not help. Alternator is good.
    No lights are on, but occasionally on very dark night, the lights in bottom of gauges (the park/neutral/drive light) appears to be on very dimly. It looks like a phosphorescence glow, not a real light.

    Removal of fuse 4 in the cab (the gauge fuse) causes park/drive light and some of the gauges to go out when truck is turned on. However, the faint glow is still visible even when key is removed.

    Removal of fuse 19 (the radio fuse) causes faint light on park/drive to go out, also the speedometer/odometer, gas, temp gauges also go out

    Sometimes removal of fuse 19 causes all the gauges to quit working, sometimes not. When 19 is replaced, there is a surge and all gauges peg momentarily. Both fuse 19 and fuse 4 have to be removed to shut off the gauges.

    Any ideas how this is possible?
  • chuck46chuck46 Member Posts: 6
    I have a rattleing noise when I dowshift or accelerate the engine, I think it is the clutch bearings or something of the sort, Is it very hard to rebuild a clutch or should I take it to the garage? I do all of the engine work on my cars , but dont mess with transmission and never rebuilt a clutch.
  • workinwithjunkworkinwithjunk Member Posts: 1
    Airman,
    Im kinda having the same problem with my truck.I was hoping that you could let me know how to reset the computer.My security light stays on all the time and I think that the security system is telling my computer to stop my injectors from working.The truck will start and run for maybe a second and then dies.I have to turn the key back,wait a few seconds and start the truck again inorder for it to start again.SOMBODY PLEASE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION!
  • joel36joel36 Member Posts: 1
    I turn the key until the dash lights "should" light up, but they don't.If i keep turning the key the truck will turn over but won't start until the dash lights are on.I sometimes have to wait about 5-10 minutes with the key tuned until the dash lights finally come on.I don't know much about trucks, but i'm hoping someone can help.
  • dtl379dtl379 Member Posts: 3
    you may have a faulty sending unit. I have read online of a few trucks with this issue. Mine has a faulty sending unit, and has for years. Just for note, if you have the 4.3 X, 262, SCPI, with a 15.8 gallon tank, you can get just over 300 miles to the tank. Keep that in mind. GOOD LUCK!!!
  • redtruckredtruck Member Posts: 2
    Just when I take off from a dead stop. Seems to be coming from center of driveshaft suspect carrier bearing starting to go or maybe something in the CV-joint.
  • woodmarewoodmare Member Posts: 1
    I run smaller tires on the front than on the rear of my 1997 S15 Std cab Sonoma. (I insist on a nice nose down attitude) Also lowered 4/6 with springs, spindles. Naturally the ABS light comes on. Aside from changing tires, can this be condition corrected/reprogrammed?
  • inside_wiremaninside_wireman Member Posts: 2
    My '99 S-10 runs normal above 1500 RPMs, but hesitates and frequently stalls at idle. I have replaced the "before cat" O2 sensor and the fuel filter. This fixed it for about 24 hours. My idle problem comes and goes daily! I checked the Fuel pressure regulator with the "suck and tongue" method, and it held fine. All vacuum lines seem to check out and the fuel pump whines as normal. PLEASE HELP! :cry:
  • claudiam1claudiam1 Member Posts: 1
    Both my power windows just quit working. Using a meter, there doesn't appear to be any power going to the motors, but the switches appear to be ok. The fuses in the inside fuse box all check out ok. The manual doesn't show any fuse in the fuse box under the hood that applies to the power windows. The manual shows something called "lift glass" but doesn't give any details and that position on my fuse box is empty. Does anybody know if there is a hidden circuit breaker or relay somewhere that controls the window motors? Thanks
  • londog77londog77 Member Posts: 5
    The problem I have had for a while now, is my AC/Heater doesn't work. When I turn on either the AC or heater I get the same result. The blower works fine...it will blow hard as usual. The problem is I only get a hint of cold air or a hint of heat. If I put my hand right up against the vents I can feel the heat or cold air. Its almost like everything works except maybe a valve(?) that actually lets the hot or cold air in to be circulated. Can somebody make any sense of this? Thanks.
  • monzamessmonzamess Member Posts: 5
    Truck: 97 S-10 2WD ext cab V6 auto ZQ8 suspension, about 75000 miles

    I get a droning vibration starting around 35 MPH and getting louder until at least 75 MPH (didn't go faster). This just started happening one day with no obvious cause. It sounds like I'm being chased by a prop plane. I can feel the vibration in the floorboard. It's still there whether the trans is in any gear or in neutral, whether or not I'm braking, whether or not I'm turning, etc. Sometimes these events can slightly change the noise but it's still there.

    I rotated the tires with no effect. I don't feel any "play" on any of the wheels. I looked at the driveshafts and didn't see any missing weights but maybe I wasn't looking close enough.

    I tried jacking up the rear of the truck and running it to observe the driveshafts, but after getting up to around 55 MPH, the truck flooded and died. It took several tries to restart. After that I didn't want to keep trying that method so I stopped.

    Any ideas?
  • monzamessmonzamess Member Posts: 5
    Me again, same truck as above (97 S-10).

    Sometimes when I'm driving with the headlights on, they will blink out, along with the dash lights. Each event lasts under 1 second. This happens roughly every 15 miles (sometimes more frequently, sometimes less) so it's hard to isolate. One time the fuse for the rear running lights blew, and after that, no more glitches, until I replaced the fuse. What's strange to me is that is a different circuit than the headlights but I guess a short on that circuit can mess up the whole electrical system?

    Any tips on troubleshooting something this infrequent?
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    HI,

    You say "Vibration" then say "sounds like a prop plane" and "vibration in the florr boards" ? - leads me to think it might, possibly, be a wheel bearing in the front?? Get it up to the noise speed (35+) then, in a deserted straight road, do a long lazy weave - left , right, left, and see if you can hear the noise / feel the vibration change pitch .... It might not be this - but it's an easy test ....

    Good Luck !!
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Not much help here - but a comment ... Although the electrcal systems /circuite are separate - they do come from a common power source. Should a dead short occur - not only does the amperage on that "line" or "circuit" go sky high, it also will draw down the voltage of the rest of entire system "if" the power source cannot produce enough amps to compensate - (or otherwise said - if the amp draw on the battery/alternator exceeds capacity, the entire system voltage will start to drop).

    This drop will stay until something gives - the "dead short" circuit's fuse gives - or until the short goes away (i.e., the wire moves off the frame). Now, The fuse will blow if the short is there long enough - BUT - it does take some fractional part of a second for the fuse to fry (and there are different types - i.e., AGC). In this "short" amount of time (pardon the pun) - the voltage drops in the entire system - including the computer, the relays, etc (almost everything) these starts to see the voltage drop/ spike. The relays can open, the computer can reset, etc .....

    With that said - You said you changed the rear lights fuse - how was it blown?? Was it "Vaporized" (a DEAD short will do this!! ) - or was the fuse just melted enough to open (Minor over amp fuse blow) ??
    If the fuse was vaporized - I'd stay on THAT circuit and check the entore harness - due to tha fact of what I said at the beginning. If not, Be patient and "hopefully" it will get worse real soon - and go completely out - then you have a situation you can trouble shoot ....

    Canufixit ....
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