Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

canufixit · June 2005

Check to see that you have compression in all cylinders and the timing looks to be OK when cranking....
My thought here is that the timing chain/belt (or Gear teeth) has let go/broken. If the valves do not move (broken chain / Stripped gear) you'll have some/most? of the valves open / partially open and not cycling - therefore no intake/vacuum. Also, if the chain/belt ships links/notches (due to worn Grear/stretched chain/belt) - the ingnition timing my way out ...

What's the mileage on the beast ???

Good Luck !!

canufixit · June 2005

If my Memory serves me ... The Brake and turn are the same wire/lamp for each side (L, R,) - the next thing in the circuit that is "common" to both would be the Emergency flasher relay/switch ???

If not, get out the ohm meter and trace the wire from bulb back. Remember, per your symptoms, the problem is that the voltage is NOT going off when the trun signas go on ... trace this back - not the stop light circuit ...

tinytruck · June 2005

It only has 96,200. Not a lot for a '93.

jpf · June 2005

I have owned a 2000 2WD S-10 (V-6) for two years. Two problems with the V6 were leaking oil cooler lines and leaking intake manifold gasket. Total cost to fix both at a GM dealership was $600. No problems since both repaired. I have made seven trips from Mississippi to Canada (2,500 miles round trip) in the past two years with no problems. Highway gas mileage is approx. 22 miles per gallon. A good solid truck. I would not consider the 4 cylinder model. Also, 4WD models require higher maintenance.
The V6 engines (4.3 liter) generally have a long lifespan. 200 to 250 thousand miles is not uncommon for these engines if well-maintained.

codeman8702 · June 2005

Im not sure what your problem is, however, Ive got a '99 S-10 and I seem to have the same exact problem when my brakes get wet. There is a hard vibration in the brake pedal, and a jerk of the steering wheel to one side. I am dumbfounded as well. If anyone else has a solution to our problem, please let us know what exactly is going on.

codeman8702 · June 2005

About 7 months months ago, my '99 s-10 began to lean. I went ahead and lowered in anyway (3/4) drop. Since then, it has gradually gotten worse. I am wondering if there is a quick fix to this problem, or will it take a lot of work to get it sitting properly again?

teamrpms10 · June 2005

I have recently done a 2.2 motor swap in my 1994 s10. The block that was in it was blown to shreds when a piston rod blew through it as well as taking some of the wiring, heater hoses, radiator hose, and a/c hoses with it in a blaze of glory. The motor I used to replace the blown block is out of a completely trashed 98 s10. All the parts on my 94 motor were removed and placed in storage. The 94 head has been put on the 98 block and the cam position sensor has been plugged with a tap in freeze plug. I replaced all gaskets except the oil pan gasket, redid the T5 input shaft bearing with the right shim this time, got new seals for the T5, a new throwout bearing and used the 98 power steering pump, alternator, water pump, starter, flywheel and clutch, coil packs and coil pack mounting bracket, and a/c hoses. The only parts that are 94 are the a/c compressor, intake and exhaust manifolds, air intake, radiator, hoses, wiring harness which i rebuilt, and the fan and fan clutch, head, rocker arms and valves, egr and egr mounting plate, crank position sensor, motor mounts, and ICM . I replaced all the pushrods and rocker arm studs. I got the motor rebuilt and reinstalled, had a little problem with the stupid coil packs being crossed, and then got the motor running. Upon further notice I now have a power steering pump whine and a very loud valve tick. Any thoughts or comments on how to fix the valve tick or what I can do?? I have racked my brain and my grandfathers too as well as read the chiltons book front to back.

rossiter · June 2005

I drive a 2003 Chev s10 4door. It has always been tricky to fill the tank. As soon as the gas pump shuts off you must stop filling the tank. It will spit back out real quick. Dealer says this is because of the fill pipe configuration to accommodate the shortened box.
The other day the service engine light came on. - computer said fuel emission problem.
Stopped at the service station to fill up because it was down to 1/4 tank. (accurate according to the km driven since last fill up) The gas cap fairly well flew off when it was loosened. And could only get 10L of gas in. Tried twice more within the next 2 days and only got a total of 7 more litres in. :mad: I am going to try to syphon gas to the bottom of the tank with a hose to try to dislodge what I think must be an air lock.
What do you or any one else think? Suggestions?

arichards · June 2005

I have a 1995 chevy s10 2.2 4L. It is really loseing oil presure, it start to run very bad. I WENT TO CHECK THE SPARK PLUG AND FIND OIL ALL AROUND THE PLUGS, MAY A OIL LEAK IN IN THE BLOCK. PLEASE IF ANY BODY COULD HELP DO SO FAST, I REALLY NEED TO KNOW WHAT CAUSING THE OIL LEAK. AND CONFRIM IF THIS CAUSES LOW OIL PRESURE

bryan5 · June 2005

Hi i have a 87 S10 with about 85,000 miles on it. I have been having some problems with it. I will be crusing down the road and it will just cut off. Also I have been having alot of problems trying to start it , It will take a few times for it just get the juice it needs for instance it will turn over and run for a second then die out. I have changed out the fuel filter. Not sure whats going on with it but it can be very dangerous when I am doing 85 mph on the highway and it just dies out! Does anyone have suggestions? I am thinkin something electrical or maybe the fuel injection ports but who knows Thanks for your help!!!!!

blazer5 · June 2005

Blazer would not pass smog test. Removed Heads had a valve job, installed Heads, installed new spark plugs/wires, cap/rotor, Cat/muffler/exhaust pipes, O2 sensor, vacuum lines. Blazer turned over but would not start, then backed fired on first start-up and would not start. Could I have installed the Distributor 180 degrees off? Or, could I have tighten the rocker arms wrong causing the valves to be off? Both affecting the timing. Any and all suggestions in correcting starting problem would be greatly appriciated! Thanks!

teamrpms10 · June 2005

as stated in my problem on the 94 s10, the plug wires may possibly be crossed seeing as how it backfired which is exactly what my truck did. if not that try the 180 out. rocker arms on an 85 i have no idea about, but im sure somebdoy here does.

stimi · June 2005

I have a "96" GMC Sonoma. That will not start. I have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump 3 times. When you try to turn the engine over it sounds like it is starving for gas. Is there anything else that it could be?

Thanks

banjo3 · June 2005

I just bought a '98 S10, LS, 4 cyl, 5 spd, with 11,000 miles on it. Yup...that's 11,000 miles. It was actually owned by an 89 year old man who never drove it. I've been driving it on the highway lately and notice that the steering seems overly sensitive. At first I thought it was just my imagination, but I can hardly keep it in a straight line without constantly correcting slightly left, and then right, to stay in the middle of a lane. You can't just hold the wheel straight and have it track straight without some correction. It has the original Tiger Paws on it and they look like new...the sidewalls have no checking and the tread is like new, but they were manufactured in early '98. Where do I start with this problem? I'm thinking a front-end alignment is first, and then could it be those tires? Anybody else have this symptom? Thanks.

joe3891 · June 2005

Had the same problem on my 99, I could not keep it in a straight line, the front wheel bearing adjustment was set too loose.

banjo3 · June 2005

Thanks...Just wondering how bad it was? Could you jack up the front end and wiggle the wheels or how did you find it? I think it almost has to be something like this because of the low mileage....I'd be surprised to find anything "worn out".

canufixit · June 2005

Hi,

Per the other responses so far ... I agree, there's just to litttle mileage for a major worn out component. So, I do as they say ... Check anything that has an adjustment.. Wheel bearings, Steering box adj, etc. ...

oh Yeah, one other thing it coould be - is a rubber bushing rot out from age - please check any you see - especially in the ideler arm.

And, As the truck sat so long - check the tires for flat spots ,,,,,

Good Luck and let us know what happens !!!

joe3891 · June 2005

Happened real early, still under warranty so the dealer adjusted the bearings.
When I repacked the wheel bearings at 30K one side was too tight, almost ruined the bearing, really I should have checked them myself after the dealer adjust.
The wheel had to be loose it, it was wandering, it took effort to keep it straight. Its a simple procedure if you have never done it before.

banjo3 · June 2005

Thanks for everyone's input. I have an appointment for a front end alignment tomorrow, and they'll check the bearings and bushings and the whole thing. I could do the bearings myself, but since I want to have the alignment checked I'll leave it to them this time. I'll let you know what happens.

Steve in CA.

lando · June 2005

Can anyone tell me the location of the camshaft sensor on a 2001 chev s10 2.2l engine 2wd manual trans?

jae5 · June 2005

jpf,

Is the oil cooler line leaks a common problem on the s-series? I think I may have the same problem with the oil cooler lines. Last oil change I noticed that where the lines and PS lines come near each other were a a little wet, but I did not know if the wetness was from the oil cooler lines or the PS lines. Wiped and smelled the fluid but couldn't detect if it was oil or not and a wipe of the area couldn't tell if it was oil, or a combo of things. The areas where the oil lines install into the cooler and into the block above the oil filter mount were dry. Plus, I wasn't low on oil so I just wiped the lines and left it at that.

But I noticed I got a small drip area on the garage floor near the same area. Also talked to a guy at the local Firestone and he stated it's a common occurrence and absolutely, positively sure it was the cooler lines. But wanted to not only charge for the cooler lines but also to run die through the motor to make sure. If you're sure it's the cooler lines, why the dye job :confuse: So was just wondering if this was really a common occurrence.

moncast1 · June 2005

when the rpms reach around 3,000 rpms, it starts hesitating and loses power, I check the in-line gas filter and it was ok, and spark plugs looked good. what else should i check? This all started when I messed with the crank case position sensor.

joe3891 · June 2005

Messed with the CKP sensor? sounds like it needs a relearn.

moncast1 · June 2005

relean?

moncast1 · June 2005

relearn?

afebrile · June 2005

I doubt that it is the tires. I had Uniroyal Tiger Paws on my S10 that lasted to 72,000 miles and still pased inspection. I rotated them faithfully and watched the pressure (I ran 35 pounds). I never had a flat, and the tires rolled well and true down the road. I would cuess an alignment would help.

afebrile · June 2005

I have a 2001 S10 that has always, always had a shimmy that is worst at 1850 RPM (about 65 MPH). I took Chevrolet to arbitration and lost as the female arbitrator agreed with Chevrolet that the truck "operates as designed.)

I just put new tires on it after 72,000 miles, and the shimmy is still there. No one I ask who drives one of these trucks (extended cab S10/GMC Sonoma) which have a 2-piece drive shaft, admits to noticing a shimmy. I tried several (11 or more) new/used, 4-cyl/6/cyl, standard/automatic, and they ALL have the shimmy. Most are worse than mine, and the worst I drove was a new '01 Sonoma 4X4. The image in the outside mirrors was not discernable due to the vibration.

Anyone else notive this?

jpf · June 2005

Yes, the oil cooler lines leaking is a common occurrence on the S-10's. The problem is with the crimping of the hoses which weakens over time. It is important to fix ASAP because the hose can separate from the metal portion of the line. You would then lose all of your oil.
As for the dye test, it is not a bad idea. In my case, I had two leaks: one with the oil cooler lines and the other one through the intake manifold gasket.

canufixit · June 2005

Hi,

What I meant was - sometimes the Belts in the tires will take a "Set" of they sit in the same location for a long period of time. There was one tire (Aramid ?? or something like that) that they took off the market due to the belts doing this -especially in the cold weather. So, I thought that since the tires we old and that he truck obviously sat for some time (as it's older with low mileage) the belts may be trying to "Steer" the car or cause wheel hop.....

I'm all ears as to what you find out .....

eryn619 · June 2005

I just got my '94 chevy s-10 2.2 automatic in febuary and i have already had two broken flywheels. The transmition bolts are tight and everything. When the truck starts it vibrates, could that have something to do with why they are breaking? Do you know of anything that could keep causing this to happen?

banjo3 · June 2005

OK, here's the latest scoop. I took it in this morning for a front-end inspection. Bushings, bearings, etc looked great, but the alignment was out of spec. They adjusted it and improved all of the alignment settings, especially the caster which was the really bad. I've only driven it about 10 highway miles since then, and that was with a 40 MPH crosswind, so I couldn't tell much about the tracking...I was getting blown all over the place. I did notice that it steers better going around corners in the neighborhood. Tomorrow I'll take it out before the wind kicks up and try it on the highway.
Thanks to everybody for your ideas and the good discussion. I'll keep you posted on tomorrow's test drive.
Also, I'm still keeping an open mind about the tires being a factor in the steering. I know they look like new, but I've never driven on 7-8 year old tires that have been sitting around like this, so I don't know what to expect. My tires usually get replaced due to treadwear, or the sidewalls crack way before 7-8 years.

teamrpms10 · June 2005

Well its time for an update. after doing some research on http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt30216.htm i discovered a bit about the crankshaft differences between 94 and 98. So, that being said, here we go again. I am locating a 97 crank to fit the 98 block and seeing if that fixes the timing problem. At the same time we are going to adjust the rear axle to get it recentered. I had bought the truck with a lowering kit (3" front lowering springs, 4" rear lowering blocks) installed already and have come to believe the rear axle has moved a half inch forward, causing the input shaft bearings to be under extreme pressure. I'll have further updates later. A simple question to end the update: As far as differences in power steering pumps from year to year, should the 98 whine or not? If not then I'll be replacing the pump with the original 94 pump.

joe3891 · June 2005

DTC P1336 will only set if the PCM has not learned the crankshaft position system variation. The PCM only needs to learn this variation once per life cycle of the vehicle unless the crank sensor to crankshaft relationship is disturbed. Removing a part for inspection and then reinstalling the same part is considered a disturbance.

A fully warmed up engine is critical to learning the variation correctly. If a valid learn occurs, no other learns can be completed on that ignition cycle.

If the engine cuts out before the specified learn procedure engine speed or at normal fuel cut-off rpm, the PCM is not in the learn procedure mode. Review the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure and re-enable the learn procedure. Verify that the scan tool displays Test in Progress.

moncast1 · June 2005

hey, Joe3891 what do i do if i don't have a scan tool? Im limited to what i can use. I only have access to the basic tools. so should i pull the crankshaft positioner out and put it back, and let the truck idle until it warms up? and by the way thanks for responding to my question.

volfan8998 · June 2005

My drivers side high beam will not work. I have replaced bulbs, but still no luck. What can I do?

joe3891 · June 2005

This is all I could find right off, I have a lot of information but my file keeping is lacking. I will look again as soon as I can, sorry about the delay.

markramatl · June 2005

i am having the same problem with my brake lights (all three) --- did you ever get your problem resolved

markramatl · June 2005

All three of my brake light are disabled; the turn signals and night lights work fine but not the lights when i depress the brakes----any known resolution?

jae5 · June 2005

jpf,

Thanks for the info. Will be taking the vehicle in this week to have it given the "once over". Looked at the hoses on Saturday and the rubber is wet. If it is the cooler lines will definitely have them replaced because as you stated, if one or both lines go, no oil and new engine time.

When you had your rig repaired, do you know if the dealership installed the same hoses, or if there was an improved version, like a later revision hose with more reliable crimping installed? Would hate to have this problem become a nickel/dime type thing (went through that before on another vehicle).

novadude · June 2005

Turns out it was the coil. I had an aftermarket ACCEL coil on it that I had scavenged from a parts truck. I put the old coil back on, and VOILA, starts right up all the time. Guess it was taking awhile for the coil to saturate enough to make spark. Hope this helps someone else.

volfan8998 · June 2005

Have you checked all of your bulbs? When I bought my truck 2 of the 3 brake lights didn't work and all I did was change the bulbs. Maybe that will solve your problems.

volfan8998 · June 2005

Has anyone ever changed out the dimmer switch on the turn signal lever? I believe that is whats wrong with my ' 97 Sonoma's high beam problem.

canufixit · June 2005

Automatic huh?? I wonder - could it be the Torque Converter not tight / lossening up on the flywheel?? Where did the other Fly wheel crack - around the Hole pttern for the Torque converter ??? (Also check to ensure they put the correct Flywheel back on the first time - if the counter weight is wrong - the vibration will be there ...)

doubletrouble · June 2005

I have a 2003 S10 ZR5 and would like to tow it behind my motorhome. I own a tow dolly and had intended to tow the truck backwards, since it defaults to rear-wheel drive when in 2-wheel, but is there something else I should do to avoid problems when towing? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

thuoskathir · June 2005

I have a 2001Chevy S-10 2WD with an automatic transmission. Recently, after driving for 1+ hours (usually on the interstate), the transmission will not go into overdrive but remains in 3rd. Anybody have suggestion??? How serious is this problem? Thanks.

kudzu67 · June 2005

Hello,
My 1999 S10 has been a perfect angel for all of its 201,000+ miles.
Monday, I stopped for a soda on my way to work.
When I got back to my truck, it wouldn't start.
"Clickity clickity clickity" is all I heard.
Dead Battery...right?
Right...so I got a jump from another car.
Both Starter & Engine would turn over, but it will not start.
I had it towed home.
There, I noticed the Fuel Pump wasn't priming at start-up.

How can I tell if the Fuel Pump Relay is bad?
The initial problem was a dead battery...is the Alternator causing the shut down?
When I turn over the engine...the volt meter only reads 9

Think an OBDII code reader point out the trouble?

94s10 · June 2005

Depending on what year your truck is, i know that my 1994 has a brake light switch that every now and then sticks on. this switch is connected to the brake pedal and the fire wall. the switch could be faulty. just a suggestion

jpf · June 2005

Unfortunately, I believe the design of the oil cooler lines has not changed. On the other hand, I believe the intake manifold gasket has been redesigned. Each repair is about $300. Good luck with your truck.

kudzu67 · June 2005

The OBD II Code Reader did NOT find any trouble codes.
A smart suggestion from a co-worker (ex-GM Tech)
was to take one of the Fuel Pump relays and switch it around with another relay.
So, I tried that...nothings changed.

The hunt continues.

dgillis001 · June 2005

Both of my tailgate straps/cables broke at the same time, I needed both left/right sides and the dealership here in Augusta, Ga. wanted to charge me $148.00 for the part and I needed 2 of them, one for each side. I searched the "net" and found a dealership "Beyer Bros" on Google and bought the parts for like $33.00 apiece. Installation is fairly quick and easy although may require some patience untill you figure how to go about it! I'd be glad to help iof needed etc. doug. dgilis001@comcast.net

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions