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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dgillis001dgillis001 Member Posts: 4
    on Sonoma /s-10 trucks, tailgate cables frequently break and it's not a matter of just replacing a 10 dollar piece of cable. GM has allowed their so called engineers to design a non-serviceable unit wheras' you have to purchase the latch assembly that is a one piece unit in order to obtain the piece of cable. It's rather ridiculous.
  • kudzu67kudzu67 Member Posts: 3
    looks like my fuel pump is not getting power.
    Any ideas why?

    Here are my previous posts:
    My 1999 S10 has been a perfect angel for all of its 201,000+ miles.
    Monday, I stopped for a soda on my way to work.
    When I got back to my truck, it wouldn't start.
    "Clickity clickity clickity" is all I heard.
    Dead Battery...right?
    Right...so I got a jump from another car.
    Both Starter & Engine would turn over, but it will not start.
    I had it towed home.
    There, I noticed the Fuel Pump wasn't priming at start-up.

    How can I tell if the Fuel Pump Relay is bad?
    The initial problem was a dead battery...is the Alternator causing the shut down?
    When I turn over the engine...the volt meter only reads 9

    Think an OBDII code reader point out the trouble?

    The OBD II Code Reader did NOT find any trouble codes.
    A smart suggestion from a co-worker (ex-GM Tech)
    was to take one of the Fuel Pump relays and switch it around with another relay.
    So, I tried that...nothings changed.
  • j3hillj3hill Member Posts: 1
    my wife had a 01 jimmy with front end bearing faliure at 36k..undre warrenty they fixed it..I have a 01 sonoma with 39k..no longer under warr. and I just lost both front bearings...did you get any place with gm for help?..did you complain to gmc by phone or email?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Where the electrical connector plugs in at the top of the tank is a known problem on the trucks. Check for corroded or burnt pins. :)
  • sonomaguysonomaguy Member Posts: 5
    I don't know if anyone else out there has this same gripe but I need to vent :mad: . I know the S-10 and the Sonoma is practacly the same thing, but it isn't exactly the same thing. It bugs the dickens out of me when someone refers to my Sonoma as an S-10. It isn't an S-10, it's an S-15 already! I have parked next to a few S-10s and the Sonoma is a bit taller and leaner than an S-10. Maybe the parts are the same and the S-10 is more popular, but quit referring the Sonoma to being an S-10 ok? There...I feel better. :)
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I buy S-10 parts and put them on my Somoma, the badge is different. Except for grill and some other trim pieces they are the same. I wish they would have only one site, the S-10 gets more hits. :P
  • sonomaguysonomaguy Member Posts: 5
    NO, they aren't the same. Didn't you see my point of Sonoma's being taller & leaner? Hence, they are different. The Sonoma is a S-15. I don't care if they can take the S-10 parts. Chevy can take Buick parts( or they used to), but it's still a Chevy. The Sonoma is a S-15 people!
  • lisaflisaf Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Pickup, 2.2 liter. it got hot on me one morning, the water pump went out and we replaced it and it wouldn't start. so we replace the crankshaft sensor and spark plugs and it still wont start. it ran fine and i drove it home and shut it off and replace everything, now it wont start. does anyone have any ideas? i'm lost as to what it can be and i need to get it fixed. please help
    thanks
    lisa
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    It's only taller if the suspension and tires make it that way... as far as "leaner", it's the same sheetmetal and chassis, so it's not any narrower or less of weight than the S-10. Same goes for the Silverado/Sierra, TrailBlazer/Envoy, Tahoe/Yukon, Express/Savana, and every other Chevy-GMC truck pair.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • lisaflisaf Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Pickup, 2.2 liter. it got hot on me one morning, the water pump went out and we replaced it and it wouldn't start. so we replace the crankshaft sensor and spark plugs and it still wont start. it ran fine and i drove it home and shut it off and replace everything, now it wont start. does anyone have any ideas? i'm lost as to what it can be and i need to get it fixed. please help
    thanks
    lisa
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Lisa, don't hit "refresh" to see new messages - all that will do is re-post your message over and over. To see new messages, use the "Recent Messages" link in the little page number bar at the top and bottom of the page.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • sonomaguysonomaguy Member Posts: 5
    That may be so and I see your point, but it's still a S-15. ;)
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    All the more reason for GM to end the duplication :)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • phil87phil87 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 91 s-10 2.8 v-6 a year ago and i have the blower and the ac control panel and i have the vents. But what i want to do is put a ac system in it what else do i need to do this.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    But there is a difference. My dad has the Sonoma at a mid trim level. I have the s10 in the LS trim level. Yet, he still has more comfortable seats (Although they are 60/40 not the buckets) and those little extenders on the visors which I think is absurd the Chevy LS package doesn't have. Little things yes, but man I'll definitely go for the GM version next time!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Please post that over again, I am confused as to what you did or what happened when it would not start. :confuse:
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Compressor, condenser, evaporator, accumlator, all the lines and fittings which should include the orvice valve, R134a and oil. The wiring and relays. A vacuum pump to evacuate the system or bring it to an A/C shop to evacuate. I may have forgot something but you get the idea. :)
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I buy my Sierra parts at a chevy dealer because they have a better stock on hand. :)
  • choppeddroppedchoppeddropped Member Posts: 4
    I was just recently given a 84 crew cab s-10 and it shifts from 1 to 3. I think it might be a modulator or the vaccum assist but if anybody has any help or advice that would be wonderful.

    Nick
  • choppeddroppedchoppeddropped Member Posts: 4
    my 84 s-10 shifts from 1 to 3 (automatic) and i have no idea what could be causing it please help me

    Nick
  • cgm707cgm707 Member Posts: 5
    I just bought my '98 Chevy S10 Pickup. Everytime I put a CD in, it says ERR and pops it out. I tried a lens cleaner, using the CD when the truck is off/cool/on, etc., turning the CD upside down.....

    Anyone else have similar problems, ideas?

    Thanks for any help offered...

    Chip
  • 95sonoma9595sonoma95 Member Posts: 1
    if you know, please help......... :cry:
  • ron24ron24 Member Posts: 1
    Lunchbox,
    I am having the same problems but with my electrical. The wipers come on by them self, the headlights are dim and when you put turn signals on the lights go dimmer, the dash lights come on by them self. I keep thinking it has something to do with brakes?
    Any luck yet?
    Ron
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Try removing the fuse for 10 seconds. :)
  • cgm707cgm707 Member Posts: 5
    Even though the radio works ok?
  • lisaflisaf Member Posts: 4
    Joe,

    The water pump went out on my truck and it ran hot on the way home. I made it home and turned it off and let it cooled down so we could change out the water pump. And after we did, we tried to start it and it wouldn't start. So we replaced the Plugs and crank shaft sensor assuming that it was that. Well it still didn't start.And i have done everything i could possibly do to get it to start and NO luck.
    It ran fine on the way home and i just can't figure out as to why it wont start now. If you have any ideas please help. I have a chevy s-10 pickup. 2.2 liter. I had the timing checked and it's ok. The coil packs are ok and the module is ok. I am clueless as to what else it could be. Please help. I miss my truck :cry:

    thank you
    Lisa
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Sure, I repaired my CD that way and it was still on warranty, hey what have you got to lose.
    I picked this tip on another forum and its worked for lots radio and CD problems. :)
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Water pump went out ? Please explain, what was wrong with the water pump?
    First how hot, into the red and did it steam and boil out coolant. If that's the case I would check cylinder compression, it may have taken the temper out of the rings. :(
  • lisaflisaf Member Posts: 4
    Water pump was leaking really bad through the weep hole, and yes it was in the red, i checked compression on it and it's reading cylinder one is 80 psi and cylinder 2 is 50 psi and 3 is 60 psi. and 4 is 80 psi. could it be a blown head gasket maybe? :confuse:
    thanks
  • ump50ump50 Member Posts: 1
    i have had the same problem with my 2000 s10.i talked to my mechanic and he said that it might be tempurature problem related in the transmission maybe with some sensors he has not recieved anything from gm on the problem yet . i have had to pull off the road and wait about 10-20 mins and then go again. i havent had the problem in the winter time only in the hotter months. if i find out anything else i will let ya know.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Those compressions are low. The 2.2 has an aluminum head, they almost always crack when overheated, that’s the reason it has a temp gauge, GM knows the head cracks very easily when over heated.
    The statement that I got it home did not sound good. I don’t know your situation at the time but when you could see the gauge nearing the red, stop the engine, after it cools add water even from a brook or large puddle if need be. Looks like you have major engine work.
    :(
  • volstdvolstd Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 98 Sonoma for my son that only has 44,000 miles and is a five speed and has no dents and has never been wrecked. The dealership said that I could get it for $5,000 out the door. I know it's a good price but are Sonomas good trucks. What are some of your opinions. Are you happy with yours?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I have a 99 Sonoma std cab 2.2 auto with 48 K and no problems. :)
  • newblazerkidnewblazerkid Member Posts: 6
    '94 S10 Blazer (150k)

    My brakes intermittently get very hard, with no stopping power. Sometimes I can push through this, but other times I have to let it up completely and try again. Usually the second or third time after I let it up, it depresses fully and normally.

    The problem only occurs after I have been driving for awhile. The first 15 minutes each time I drive it are usually fine, but then the problem gets worse the longer I go. Eventually the ABS and brake warning lights will come on, but that takes a long time, and I've only had that happen once or twice.

    Other symptoms include a low and soft grinding noise when it happens, and hot front rims after I've been driving.

    Front calipers and pads are new, and the rear drums are new.

    I've been doing okay going back and forth from work, but I have to drive half-way across the country in a couple weeks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  • newblazerkidnewblazerkid Member Posts: 6
    Same problem from #849

    I just put my front end up and noticed that the driver's side front wheel doesn't spin as freely as the passenger's side front. I get at least a full revolution when I spin the passenger's side wheel, and at most 1/8th of a revolution on the driver's side.
  • jusbojusbo Member Posts: 1
    Hey all!
    Long time listener, first time caller...j/k. :0)
    I got this truck used, its basically a work truck. A few things wrong with it, relatively minor.
    1. The horn doesn't work (Fuse has been replaced) the horn itself actually works(Hooked it up to the battery) missing foam/insulator maybe?
    2. Parking break doesn't work. Clicks down nice and strong, but no stopping action
    3. Am in the process of trying to install a cd deck (Sony) no wiring harness to speak of. Hooked up ground to the body, power and ACC...it takes the cd in when I turn it to acc. but the face plate doesn't light up...

    Any suggestions, pointers, tips, advice, would go a long way. Thank you!
  • moes1moes1 Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2003 3 door sonoma pickup. estimated mpg is suppose to be 17 town and 23 freeway. i figured my gas milage to be around 11 1/2 mpg. should i take it back to dealership? i'm driving real easy. no fast starts. any comments as to what the problem might be? 38, 838 miles on the pickup
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I have a 92 S-10 pick-up with a brake warning light that won't go out. I replaced pads, calipers, hoses, master cylinder, flush and bled the system. Light is still on. Other than removing the light bulb, I don't know what else to do. The brakes work great and do a fantastic job. Any one else run into this problem?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    GM trucks with rear anti-lock used the red brake warning light at 1/2 intensity to indicate an ABS fault. Quick test, apply the parking brake and if the light gets brighter you have an ABS problem. Before you throw any more parts at it, retrieve the stored codes by jumpering terminals A and H on the data link connector as shown here:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
    Count the flashes on the light, post the codes, and we'll go from there.
  • gprestridgegprestridge Member Posts: 1
    On 87 S-10 with 2.5 4 cylinder engine. I have the water pump off for replacement and was wondering if I should check or replace the timing gear while I am this far into it. HAS 130,000 MILES ON IT. How hard is it to replace?
  • tailgunnerb52tailgunnerb52 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Blazer that idles rough all the time and sets no codes and does not turn on the check engine light. The plugs and wires have been changed and cap and rotor checked. Anybody have an idea of what I might check next?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Thanks for the info and instruction. I'll do as suggested and let you know what happens. Currently I have the ABS dismantled and in a cardboard box. Also I have on order modulator valve part # 570071. I'm learning as I go, it's been a hoot. The parts I have replaced so far were in poor shape and in need of replacement. Its a 92 with 173k and is starting to show some age. It runs very well for an old truck and handy to have around so we plan on keeping it for some time to come. It's the first rig I've had in along time that will spin a back tire.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like you got caught up on maintenance, which isn't a bad thing. A lot of guys have been hooked with the red brake light on earlier GM trucks and SUV's, trying to correct a hydraulic system problem when it's an ABS fault. Keep us posted on how it's going. Btw, here's why you should perform one of the most neglected services, flushing the hydraulic system regularly:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml
  • tim1959tim1959 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2003 S10 ......i do not know ...but need it resolved now........... does anyone know ???
  • 19351935 Member Posts: 1
    brake lights do not work, all other lighting works, ie. left turn. right turn, backup lite, park/running lights, no burned out bulbs, have replaced brake /cr control, switch, when running lights are turned off, there is no voltage present on the wire at the plug in rear of vehicle(harness plug,ft to rear)the same wire that has voltage when parking lights are on.. unable to find a wiring diagram, that lists diodes or other devices in this circuit. run a jumper wire from the brake switch(unloaded wire) on the switch back to the same wire at the back harness plug....plug unhooked) and then stepping on the brake petal operates all the brake lights.....i need some help big time on this one......c.j./1935 :sick:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The brake light wiring goes through the signal switch. If there's power into the signal switch at terminal P (white) with the brake pedal depressed, but no power out at terminals M (yellow) and N (dark green), replace the signal switch. Here's the schematic:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b295.gif
  • hunterjhunterj Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 and I here the same vibration when traveling at speeds ranging from 30 to 70 MPH. When traveling at speeds in between 30 and 40 MPH the sound is much louder, and sounds like metal rattling however the noise completely goes away when you turn the steering wheel at all to the right. Did you ever find out what the cause was for the noise? Any ideas would hlep!!! Thanks
  • normandnormand Member Posts: 1
    HEY I go 95 s10 4.3 lit 2wd and when my abs light come on my heater motor stop,and when my light go off heater is back on. any help?
  • shaz5shaz5 Member Posts: 4
    hey,
    i have a 1999 s10 and i have the same problem. after driving an hour plus, the transmission will not shift into the high gear. if i let it cool for about 20 minutes, it is okay again. it also sometimes seems to be slipping or searching for gears when i am driving over 60 miles an hour. it definitely does seem to related to the operating temperature, i.e., once the transmission is really warm, it has the problem. very frustrating, cause even the chevy dealer couldn't tell me what was wrong. they test drove it 21 miles, and of course it didn't have the problem. please keep us posted if you are able to find anything. do you think possibly the transmission fluid was overfilled and when it gets really hot and expands it causes a problem?? a website i read said before condemning the transmission, have the fluid and filter changed (not flushed) and be sure to use the right fluid when refilling. have either of you tried this? thanks.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    Even after adjusting the lock rods the door was not closing fully and the handle was still hard to open. So we also adjusted the latch on the frame which the doors locks on to by some hammering and tweaking and now the handle works nicely and the door closes better. Definitely do this when you are in a patient mood...it goes much better!
This discussion has been closed.