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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • usman1usman1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 chevy s10 pickup. I had just gotten done cleaning the seats and dashboard of the truck. I had checked the airfilter and oil. but when i went to start it..the truck didnt start. The battery seems fine cuz the lights and horn are working but it seems like the truck wont turn over. What could be the problem? Also yesterday i had put in 89 octane gasoline instead of 87 what has been usually put in but the tank was mostly empty when i did so. So could that be it ? or the starter. Please help. Thanks.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    No codes? Should be showing P1870, converter slippage. That year an earlier has an issue with worn valve bodies, GM has an updated valve body assy for your truck, how many miles on it now. The transmission need not be removed to replace the valve body. :)
  • shaz5shaz5 Member Posts: 4
    the chevy dealer i took it to hooked it up to the machine for diagnostics. they did not tell me the number of the code, only that it did show the transmission had slipped. but since truck was fine when they drove it, they said there was nothing they could do (and charged me $80 for diagnostics). my truck has only 62,000 miles on it. would the worn valve body cause the problem to happen only when the truck was hot (after driving over an hour)? is the valve body part of the transmission, and about how much is it gonna cost to replace it?
    :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Joe, we've had good luck with this fix. Services original and factory reman units:

    http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/PDF/77754-Combo(rb).pdf
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Sorry thats a classic, the dealer is really out of date, should have known fix. It will do it at 62K and even at 40K. Check with a GOOD independent trans shop, they will give you an estimate. :(
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Thanks for the link, was aware, reamers cost LOL. :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    My door originally had a rattle -
    Actually my door bottom was so far out - I had to have the Dealer buy a new striker plate and I extended the adjustment slots in the latch in my milling machine ... (and I broke two cutters - that latch was really work hardened from the factory bending/processing - well over approx 30+ RC ). That change pulled in the dor and fixed my rattle ... My opening latch has always been a ltttle hard - but never really had a problem so I left well enough alone ...

    Glad you fixed the problem ....
  • jrgreggjrgregg Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 sonoma, 5-spd, V6, it has right at 100,000 miles on it. for the past year or so when i'm driving it will just cut off on me (at least thats how it started). usually it is in hot weather, and on long trips. now instead of the whole thing just cutting off, its just like the fuel isnt reaching the engine. i will keep pressing the gas, and the truck will lurch like its trying but theres just nothin there to power it. most recently it has started sputtering and knocking inside the engine and no one has a clue what it is. i have taken it several places where it has been "fixed", the first two "fixed" an electrical problem, the last one replaced some burned out O2 sensors. I have also replaced the fuel filter, checked for leaks in the fuel line, and also check the fuel line to make sure it isnt touching anything hot that would make the gas evaporate inside the line. diagnostics show nothing and they tell me that unless i can pull it into the station right when its happening, then theres no way for them to find the problem. dear lord please someone help me, this is driving me insane!
  • shaz5shaz5 Member Posts: 4
    you might be having the same problem i am having with my '99 S10. it sounds similar to my transmission problem: after driving for an hour plus, the truck won't shift into high gear. which makes it drive like it has the emergency brake on (or maybe as you are describing, like the fuel won't reach the engine and lurches forward). just a thought. see postings 867-871. joe is saying 99 and earlier models have a classic problem with worn valve body assemblies.
  • shaz5shaz5 Member Posts: 4
    Joe, thanks a lot for the tip. i will check into it. i looked back at my receipt from the dealer who did the diagnostics and it does show that it was a code 1870, "slipping component". Don't know how they could not have known about the issue, or the fix. :)
  • paul1217paul1217 Member Posts: 1
    ive got a 1990 s15 jimmy 2-door suv and the back glass squeaks like crazy! ive tried tightening the glass and the gate and replaced the struts, everything i could think of. anyone else who's had this problem?
  • goodgodgoodgod Member Posts: 6
    I have my red brake warning light at 1/2 intensity on my dash. Also, my speedometer quit working at the same time. I took off each tire and examined the brake components before I read your post, but they seemed to be fine. I ran the code procedure and I got 12 all day long, which I take to mean no code. My issue may be related to using a trailer (an S10 cut off at the back of the cab) and running those lights as well. Prior to this, my bottom taillight, middle bulb, was not working. I changed the bulb, but that made no difference. Any ideas would be appreciated
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Since this discussion is for S10 and S15/Sonoma pickups, you may have better luck asking here: Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bbkittybbkitty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 Pickup with 82,000 miles. I have replaced the alternator 2 times and about to do it again this weekend. AARRGH! I can't figure out why I keep having this problem. The auto part store said that I might have just gotten 2 bad alternators...but I don't know. After I changed it the 2nd time I changed the tensioner arm, because it was causing my truck to lose power as well, and I was wondering if that could have done damage to my alternator. I also have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, battery, and the throttle postion sensor! This truck has had so many problems I would not recommend buying a Chevy! Anyway....any advice or help anyone can give me about my alternator would be very much appreciated!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Vehicle speed sensor or it's wiring.
  • goodgodgoodgod Member Posts: 6
    Where is Vehicle speed sensor located?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Aftermarket overhauls are an issue, buy a new Delco or google for a larger Delco that will fit. :)
  • blakeskiblakeski Member Posts: 1
    this ought to be an easy one, but i am not too "bright" when it comes to electricity. headlights are fine at low-beam, but when i switch to high-beam, the right-side light (passenger side) goes completely out. the left-side one goes high, so i suspect it's not the switch. i replaced the sealed-beam (it is a 1983), and that did not fix it, so i expect it is something between the switch and the lamp. my chilton does not have wiring diagrams.

    this has been a hell of a truck. i have never had trouble with it and would not hesitate to drive it anywhere. it has 238k on it. i bought it with 59k in 1989, with the only major repair being head gaskets at about 85k. still has original clutch, carb, distributor, water pump, and i have worked it hard.
  • iantiant Member Posts: 1
    did you fix the problem or not I have the same problem?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I was advising to a probable fix, never heard back from the guy. What is your problem and what have you done to it so far. :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    2wd, left side of transmission extension housing. 4WD, transfer case.
  • sdimesdime Member Posts: 1
    Hey I have a '94 S-10 with about 145,000 miles. I have had little to no problems with it after i replaced the alternator at around 100,000. Lately when i start the truck it will either idle at 500rpm, idle at the normal 800-1000 rpm, or just fly at 3000rpm. I checked for disconnected vaccuum lines and found nothing. If anyone has any ideas or has had this problem i would greatly appreciate some advice. Thanks
  • bigpaz2003bigpaz2003 Member Posts: 1
    Headlight high beam is burnt out. Replace the whole headlight.
  • chevyfreakchevyfreak Member Posts: 1
    Hey ya'll,

    Just bought a 92' Chevy S-10 the other day and have been doing a few repairs here and there, but I have run into a few problems and was hoping maybe you guy might have some ideas! First of all, I hear it is a common problem with the digital dash, but everything but the odometer and speedometer is out. I have no Tachometer, no fuel gauge, nothing for the battery, nothing for the engine or oil...I took the dash display out and checked all the bulbs and they seem to be working just fine, but they have nothing to do with the other displays so I have learned. I checked the fuses, nothing wrong there otherwise the whole display would be out. So I am not sure if it is the display or if it is the engines computer or what? I use to have a problem with a squeeling noise while accelerating and taking the foot off the gas, but I replaced the U-Joints and it was just those. But shifting is a bit rough, and it doesnt want to go into first, second, and reverse too easily. I dont know if that is the clutch or the transmission, cause i push the clutch in all the way and it sometimes grinds going into reverse while the clutch pedal is still down. I dont know much about transmissions yet, so I dont know if it is clutch fluid, the clutch or what? So any help with these problems is greatly appreciated! Thank you all in advance!
  • filthyrobfilthyrob Member Posts: 1
    Sorry for such a silly question. I have a 99 Sonoma V6 and I thought I'd start doing my own oil changes. I have the Hayes manual which doesn't tell me where the oil filter is. I've been under with a flashlight but still I don't see it. I have the skidplates option, do I need to get under those?

    Thanks in advance, Rob. :)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I have a 92 4.3Z that I traded from Dad. He bought it 10 yrs ago with 30k on it. Every since day one it has had a high idle especially after start up. He took it back to the dealer and was told that it was normal. He and I searched for vacuum leaks to no avail. A couple of months ago I was changing the thermostat. In the process I discovered that the plastic elbow that taps into the throttle body and goes to the PVC hose was cracked on the bottom. I replaced it and the idle has been beautiful every since. We surmised that it was that way off the assembly line.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Some earlier 4.3's have an oil filter access door in the skid plate. Looks like this:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018ad4c.gif
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Good Catch - and it sounds like it fixed your problem..

    A couple comments if I may ??

    As far it it being there since day one ?? If it was as noticeable as you say since day one - I 'd have to say the dealer should have easily caught that with a vacuum gauge which logically they must of tried for an Idle issue ... But, you never know ....

    Also, for the original poster / issue - my 2002 does start and idle high for a few minutes AND the clutch in the fan is on as well - so it sounds loud and sound like it is racing much faster than it is ... This is normal .. just for reference ....
  • fatman40fatman40 Member Posts: 2
    I turn on the ign and no fuel pressure. I hooked up 12v batt to the wires from the tank and still no sound from pump. :confuse: Truck just stopped running.I thought @first it was vapor lock. Put fuel in throttle body and ran until fuel was dry. :confuse:
  • davidvfburtondavidvfburton Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    Your post was from June-6, did you get this problem fixed?
    I am having the exact same problem and was wondering if you have a fix for it yet..

    Thank You
    David Burton
  • orngmnorngmn Member Posts: 1
    im thinking of buying a 1994 gmc sonoma 4cyl with auto trans, the trans needs replaced but i'd like to know the model # of the trans to look for another 1 first. can anyone tell me what model might be in this truck?
    thanks
    orngmn
  • fatman40fatman40 Member Posts: 2
    All right, I answered my own question and fixed it. The problem is the fuel pump. It was nice to have a 4" lift, didn't have to remove the tank. :P
  • mkokomomkokomo Member Posts: 1
    Truck has approx. 72,000 miles on it. 5-6 months ago started losing power going up hills & after driving for long distance. Doesn't matter if AC is on or not. Pretty much had to floor it to get up to speed on the interstate. Going up hills it's REALLY bad. Replaced spark plugs, air filter, ignition rotor, fuel filter so far. Still does it. Plus when I start it up in 1st & 2nd gears it kinda "chugs" and jerks back & forth like it's about to die. Any ideas on what to do next? Check engine light came on a few days ago, mechanic said it was the Max Air Flow Sensor - what the heck is that and WHERE is that?
  • 01ccs10tn01ccs10tn Member Posts: 1
    I have a broken tailgate cable on my S-10 2001. I want to know what you have found out about this problem. I am new to this forum and just spotted your message. I am not even yet sure how to follow a thread on your message if there is one. Will I have to replace the whole latch assembly? (For those who don't know, it appears the cable is riveted to the latch assembly, requiring the rivet to be cut--I think, to replace the cable) Can I install cables from an Autoparts store by cutting the rivet off the latch assembly and bolting a new cable on? Is there a recall? Will my dealer fix this as a warranty repair? I would really appreciate your feedback.
  • jjj4jjj4 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Sonoma 3 door stepside with a 2.2L,auto, and 75,000 miles.
    I`ve never had any problems with this truck untill last week.
    I was at a stop light with the AC on, and when I pressed on the accelerator to go the engine lost power and quit running.
    After comeing to a stop the engine started right up and ran just fine.
    The truck ran fine, and I thought everything was cool----but today I was at the same stop light and the same thing happend again but the AC was turned off.
    I dont know whats going on with the truck, but it kind of reminds we of the old vapor lock thing back in the 1950s and 60s.
    Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks jjj4
  • rkovachrkovach Member Posts: 1
    Christopher, I have the same problem, just went to a junkyard and got a whole assembly replacement and let me tell you getting that thing out is a bear. It was so bad that I don't even want to attempt to do it on my own vehicle. Have you heard of any recalls or easy way to replace the cable? Drilling out the rivet looks like the easiest thing to do. let me know what you found out. thanks......
    rkovach
  • gearshift1gearshift1 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 4.3 sonoma and when i crank it up seconds after it fires it clunks or knocks cant tell ... but it causes the motor to shake briefly :( any ideas???
  • larryj1larryj1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, got '04 S-10 (crew cab) 4x4, auto, 4.3L, 21,000 miles. This is my 4th S-10 since 1984 (two good ones, one lemon, and this one which jury still out). Anyway getting a continuous ringing sound @ 2500RPM or so in each gear. Took it in under warranty, test drive and mechanic said probably trany. Appointment and tranny mechanic didn't hear it, second test drive and he heard it, said not trany but part of drive train! Goodwrench doesn't think warrants any further work as there are no bulletins on such a problem. But I'm really concerned I'll breakdown pulling my pop-up camper (about 2000lbs) in next couple weeks somewhere out in the boondocks - where I like to camp with family. So anyone got any similar problems or suggestions???
  • zr2machine01zr2machine01 Member Posts: 4
    Hey i got a 2001 4WD Chev S-10, Z-R2, great truck 4.3 V6, 46000 miles on it. Runs great and everything, the only thing is i get around 220 miles to a tank. What is anybody else getting, i want to compare numbers with others. Also someone that had a 92 GMC with the 4.3 4WD told me that they started using K&N air filters instead of your standard filter, and they put a flowmaster exhaust system with the medium pipe (thats all you need with the 4.3 V6 anyhow) and it helped with HP and felt quicker of course but said they started getting around 360 miles to a tank! Any Input, or comments about this?

    Another thing whenever i fill up, my gauge doesnt read completely full and judging from only 220 miles to a tank its probably about a 15 gallon tank, right? I heard though these trucks have about a 2 gallon reserve tank so i dont know what to think. Would that 2 gallons be the remaining fuel left when your low fuel light comes on?

    Please tell me everything you know bout these trucks, any answers to my questions will help

    Thanks - Brian
  • drglinskidrglinski Member Posts: 4
    I beg to differ and are offended by your comment. My S-10 has been flawless thus far; it was just a problem with that particular truck.
  • drglinskidrglinski Member Posts: 4
    Trucks with 4 bangers are BAD ideas. That is my thought.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    We have the 2002 4WD Chevy S-10, Z-R2, no quite so great truck 4.3 V6, 85000. We use a K&N air filter but have no modifications. In order to figure out my fuel economy I take the amount of miles on the tach and divide it by the gallons of gas I just put in and then reset the tach. We get typically 15-16 mpg. Roughly 250-270 depending on when I stop and refill. The longest I have ever gone with the fuel light on was 17 miles and I think I put close to 17 gallons in the that time.
  • yar1yar1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1989 s 10 4.3l 4X4 I have an intermittent cooling problem. change thermostat and two temp sensors....is there a third? runs hot then cools down ....

    also have a noise at first start up in the transmission when backing up its like a grinding noise. i think this could be the 4 wheel drive try to kick in don't know

    help please

    thanks for your time
    yar
    :confuse:
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    29 miles to a gallon is bad, the 4.3 owners are screaming about poor fuel mileage. :)
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    360 miles to the thank is great, how they do that?. Have '99, 4.3, 4L60E, ZQ8 suspension. As with chevy02, I usually average 250 - 260 a tank, but have gotten as low as 230. The 3.42 gear my vehicle has isn't the greatest for gas mileage, but if that was my biggest concern I wouldn't have bought a truck. Anyway, believe the tank is 19 gallons, maybe be 18. When I fill up, after the auto shut-off of the pump, I can usually get another gallon into the tank. I've driven about 20 miles with the fuel light coming on and off, but wouldn't make that a practice as fuel pump damage can occur. Just nice to know approx. how far I can go until dead empty. From my experience with GM vehicles, there is usually anywhere from 2 - 4 gallons left in the tank when the light first comes on. My 66 Impala, on the other hand, when it hits the 1/4 mark, I start looking for a station and at the 1/8 mark, I'm in the station.

    Have installed a K&N air cleaner, helped a little in seat-of-the-pants feel, haven't dynoed the truck so don't know how much gain I've gotten. Have been looking for an exhaust, but many don't have an application for my vehicle due to the lowered suspension and rear sway bar.
  • zr2machine01zr2machine01 Member Posts: 4
    Yeah see im kinda mad cuase im only getting like 220 max to my tank, so i love the truck and all its just that im gonna try and do what ever i can to increase my fuel life. So im lookin into the flowmaster exhaust system a little, more so cuase i love the sound, but im also gonna start using k&n or possibly look into an air intake kit as well. I dont know, suppose i should pay off the truck first! Hah

    thanks,
    Brian
  • hategmhategm Member Posts: 8
    My gas gage shows full most of the time. I have turn the key on and off a few times to get an actural reading. My 2000 Astro just started doing the same thing.
    I now know why their is a trip meter on the trucks. I fill up every 400 miles on 19 gal tank Does anyone know why it does that and how to repair it.
  • ttnrarattnrara Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 s-10 blazer that the piston was stuck out in the caliper hanging up the wheel. I went and purchased a new one and installed it and bled the brake system. Put it back together to find that I have the same problem with the new caliper. Any suggestions to what I may have missed? Thanks in advance
  • mama42mama42 Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    I have 1999 chevy silverado with the same problem :cry: , manual brakes work well but the abs system stop working long ago. don't know what causes this. just waiting on someone on the web to come up with a solution. if i find out anything i will post it here.

    thanks

    david
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    A flex hose collapsed internally will act as a one way check valve. Fluid can get into the caliper but not out.
This discussion has been closed.