Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

milanj · April 2001

New update on my 97 S10 tranny. The dealer changed the O2 sensor yesterday, and sure enough when they test drove it the tranny started shifting erratically again (lucky for me because I think they thought I was out of my mind when I described what it was doing). A code of P01870 came up on the computer. Today they are installing a new "valve body" in the trans. Not sure exactly what it is, but joe3891, I think you hit the problem on the head. There was too much pressure when this valve would stick, causing hard shifting. Should have the truck back by tomorrow night. Thank goodness I have an extended warranty, because two days of work I'm sure would be quite expensive. Hopefully this does the trick, because other than this, this truck has been great. I have not had any other problems (other than ball joints seemingly going bad every 40K miles just like my 91 S10 did. At least the first set was covered under warranty)

joe3891 · April 2001

Thanks for the update,ill stay tuned.

milanj · April 2001

Tranny problem solved. Got the truck back on Friday. I used it extensively on the weekend with no issues. It was the valve body assembly that they found to be defective. I will once again give this dealers service department credit. I have taken all my Chevys here for service, and they have always done a good job. I was very surprised at the short amount of time needed to solve this problem. Also, there's never a wait to get a vehicle in for service

edwin76 · April 2001

Am I in for a rude surprise here? After reading through all the problems, I have to wonder. I've got a 99 S-10 AS ex cab with the 4 cyl and 5 speed - no problems to speak of... yet.
I only have 19,000 miles on it and have been maintaining it fairly well - regular oil/filter changes, etc.
My biggest gripes about it is the daytime running lights - not being able to shut the lights off at night except when I kill the motor. As someone pointed out, it's probably something simple like a fuse I could pull to disable this - so I'm going to check it out as soon as I can to see what damage I can do to it.
The other disappointment - not really a gripe per be, has been the fuel silage. I was really expecting better than the 20 town/25 highway that I'm getting now.
Reason being - in comparison to my OTHER S-10 I bought new in '82. It had the 2.8L V-6 and a FOUR Speed - the OD transmission hadn't gone into wide-spread production as yet. With this truck, I managed to get 22 city and as much as 29 on the highway....27 with the A/I on (he, it's Texas y'all!)

I didn't have long-term experience with that truck as it got repo'd after about 18 months or so - long story. I'm hoping that I won't find myself dealing with all the various predicaments that folks here are writing about.... dealt with a Ford Aerostar for 5 years and have the scars still healing to prove it!

I wonder - does GM manufacture the S-10 at more than one plant? These trucks in Texas seem to all be manufactured at the Shreveport plant - maybe there IS a difference in the quality between assembly plants? I'm hoping so, anyway!

chadc777 · April 2001

Check the owners manual. It says how to shut off the daytime running lights (though they will reset to "on" after shutting off the engine and restarting it). I believe it is the "dome light off" button. You push it four times or something like that and the daytime running lights shut off.

Sounds like you are getting fabulout mileage. Be happy!

As for the manufacturing plant, I know some are being made in New Jersey. Friend just got in her S10 crew cab and it was made there (don't recall the city).

Chad

runninreb · April 2001

I am the original owner of a '95 V6 with 59K miles and, for the record, my truck has been nearly trouble-free and a joy to own and drive.

I have noticed recently that the rear-end sags quite noticeably under any kind of load (as little as 200lb). I am looking for suggestions to stiffen the rear-end and perhaps even raise it about an inch (for looks).

Also, has anyone tried to install an aftermarket sliding rear window? I've heard it's pretty easy, but I'm not sure if I can tackle it myself.

Thanks!

Tim

milanj · May 2001

I had a 91 S10 which at 37,000 miles failed inspection due to ball joints being worn. It was the first time at this mechanic, so I figured he was trying to rip me off. Sure enough, a mechanic I trust said the same thing. Replaced them and sure enough, at 75,000 miles they failed again. This was expensive (about $500 - $600 per incident). Reason given was that there were no grease fittings so you couldn't prevent premature failure. Now I have a 97 S10, and sure enough, at 39,000 miles the ball joints were bad. Supposedly, theses ball joints have grease fittings. This time the dealer inspected it. They were replaced for free since I have an extended warranty. Why is this?? I certainly don't beat the truck in any way. Any body have any ideas on how to avoid having them replaced again at 78,000???

joe3891 · May 2001

Don't grease them on a frame lift,they are under load.Lift under the lower control arm which takes the load off then grease.

vintner · May 2001

I have a 2000 Sonoma 4.3ltr w/ auto,all access,that I wish I didnt.Transmission went at 6500 miles, still not right,truck shakes like hell on freeway,has a grinding noise under dash the dealer has not been able or willing to fix,brakes have problems,on and on and on.I had to sue GM for refund.I personally have decided not to purchase any more GM products,if for no other reason because of the incredible hassles they give you trying to correct defects.This goes all the way to corporate level,not just their dealer.Note:there is a TSB for crankshaft pulley
on the 4.3(2000 only?) at www.nhtsa.org.
Good Luck

wally00 · May 2001

Does anyone know the reasoning behind the xtreme not be able to be used for towing. I'm in the process of buying a jet ski (>1000lbs) and I know it would be more than capable. The problem is i'm stuck in a lease for the next 2 years, any suggestions?? thanks

eotis · May 2001

I have an S-10 LS and in the past 2 years I have had nothing but transmission problems. It doesn't know what gear it's in (automatic)and bangs back and forth when going uphill. Now it only goes from 1st to 4th in the Overdrive position, if I put it in D, 2, or 1 it stays in Overdrive. They are going to check it Wednesday to see if it is a solenoid or the inside gears have bound together. I'm claiming and praying to Jesus that it is the solenoid=$250, not $1700.

the5car · May 2001

After 136,000 miles, my fan clutch has locked
up and now the fan spins all the time while
the engine roars deafeningly through gears 1-3.

I could simply replace the clutch, but I'm also
considering an electric fan as a replacement.

Does anyone out there know of a simple, bolt
on application I can find, or one that would
only require minimum mechanical skills to
install?

This is for a 1997LS, 2.2L 5 speed, w A/C...

Thanks for any suggestions...

joe3891 · May 2001

I would just put another clutch on,136K isn't bad service.If you are really good at wiring and rigging things JC Whitney has fans,relays and sensors to set up a change over.I would just put a new clutch on my 99 Sonoma if it went bad,and i have the experience to wire one up.When the clutch is not engaged the is vertually no power loss.

newton75 · May 2001

I agree with joe3891. Ultimately a new clutch isn't really an expensive repair. I know a guy that tried a bolt on electric fan in his s-10 Blazer, and it never could do the job. He just ended up getting a new clutch after a few months of almost overheating. Who knows though - maybe he just got a crappy fan...

chev98 · May 2001

I have a '98 S-10 4X4 with the extended cab, enhanced Vortec and the Zl-1 package. I have had regular dealer maintenance. I noticed yesterday that shifting during overdrive required higher rpms. Today I'm stuck in the garage with no reverse. I have plenty of trans. fluid, no leaks, no apparent fluid mix in the radiator, and no trouble service lights came on for it. I don't tow or even off-road with it. Any Ideas before I have it towed to my Chevy dealer?

the5car · May 2001

Well, I've heard arguments both ways for either
just replacing the clutch or going electric...

I've seen clutch prices anywhere from $30
to $90 bucks. The most recommended electric
model was a Flexalite Black Magic Model 60,
with a price of $190 from summitracing.com...
The advantage (so I've been told) of the
electric is that you can set the temperature
to whatever you like (not that I necessarily
would), and also anywhere from a 5-12 hp gain
in performance. Install and wiring looks
rather simple.

Money's tight right now (what else is new?),
so before I end up ruining my water pump, I'll
probably throw another fan clutch at it.

Thanks for your input.

joe3891 · May 2001

I would like to read the explanation of that,i have 18K on my Sonoma and through two summers heard the fan come on twice.The electric fan when it comes on will cause the generator(formally called alternator} to load up and lose HP,there is no free ride in this world.So you will just switch one HP draw for another,i think you are just bored and need a project.

tjkirk2 · May 2001

Has anyone found a was to permanently disable the DRLs?? Dealer told me the dome light override would do it, but that resets itself when you turn the engine off.

joe3891 · May 2001

You probably don't use your seat belt either.

double_seven · May 2001

I have a 2000 Chevy s-10 ZR2. I've noticed recently that while driving with the air selector turned to "Off" and all the way to "Cold" heat pours into the cabin onto my feet. It has to be the most miserable problem to drive any distance with that I can think of. I brought my truck in and Chevy claims that the truck is designed to allow airflow into the cabin even when the selector is off. This is understandable but fiery hot air?

Just wondering if anyone has had similar problems and can offer some solution (or if you'd like to complain like me, that'd be fine too).

joe3891 · May 2001

I would say your heat control is stuck on hot,if its on warranty take it to the dealer.My 99 Sonoma lets air in when everything is off,but i can control the air with the temp control.Yours is BROKEN.

spacecadet · May 2001

I have a 97 s-10 with daytime running lamps, I found out that the only safe way to disable the D.R.L.'s is to pull the fuse in the fuse box. You should refer to your owners manual to see what number fuse it is.

mmace37 · May 2001

I can't find my oil filter! I have a used 1990, and this is the first time I am changing the oil filter, and I can't find it. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks, Marissa

mmace37 · May 2001

But I found it! Thanks anyways!
Marissa

dcmcmullen · June 2001

I just fixed my Idle and poor gas mileage problem on my 93 S-10 Blazer. I purchased the vehical used with 123000 miles on it. I read on another web site that a common problem with the 93 S-10 4.3L W engine was the fuel lines "inside" the intake Plenum. I had taken it to several mechanics who wanted to start by replacing the Dist and other sensors. I suggested pulling the Plenum on the intake and was told that would be extremely expensive. The previous owner already had the distrubtor replaced, the fuel pump replaced, the EGR valve replaced, the map sensor and a full tune up with no change (The last mechanic wanted to replace the Catalyic converter). I gave up and pulled the plenum myself. There was puddle of gas under the fuel lines. With the plenum cover off I had my wife turn the key on and watched the fuel lines. Sure enough one had a crack in it and was spurting gas all over. GM called it a NUT KIT and it cost me $67 plus $18 for the plenum gasket. Took about an hour to replace and the truck runs like new again.

corvette · June 2001

skyhawk3 posted some time ago that his dealer gave him replacement seat tilt handles. Does anyone have a part number for these? My dad's truck is a 1998 model (new interior and seats), but I think the handle is the same. Our dealer said he couldn't just order a handle, but instead would have to order something else that included the handle ($$$). TIA.

corvette · June 2001

Just looked at the truck again. The end of the round metal shaft that goes back inside the seat is what broke off. The plastic handle itself is fine.

guru101 · June 2001

I've encountered the first (potentialy) real problem with my 99 S-10. While driving yesterday at 50 mph in 5th gear the "service engine soon" light came on. Once it light up, it stayed on the rest of the way to work (15 miles). As soon as I started the truck to go home, the light came on again. Stayed on the whole way home. Wife took the truck to her brothers early that evening. In transit, the light goes off. The whole time the truck appeared to be running just fine.

I checked the cap on the gas tank, which was closed tightly. I looked under the hood and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. No apparent fluid leaks. Oil level was right on. I have no idea what may have caused this.

When I drove the truck today it ran fine and the light didn't come on. It's out of warranty (46.7k miles) so I obviously don't want to take it to a dealer. Does anyone have any ideas? The truck is completely stock, except for a K&N air filter. It has the 2.2L 4 banger. I have changed my oil religiously at 3 month intervals.

Oh, there's one more thing. Yesterday was the hottest day where I live (Detroit) in the two years I've owned the truck. It hit 92 (for all of you sun-belt dwellers, you missed it. Yesterday was THE day designated as "Summer" here in Michigan. Maybe you can make it up here for summer next year?). So, my theory is that the heat during the day had something to do with this, because the light went off as it was finally starting to cool off a little.

milanj · June 2001

Take to the dealer and have them put it on the computer. O2 sensor might be intermittent. I had a problem with the light coming on and staying then just as I was ready to take it to the dealer it would go off. the code for the light should be stored in the trucks computer.

ryanbab · June 2001

sounds exactly like my dads 92 S-10

replaced everything you stated plus exhaust and cat (both needed to be repalced badly)

Still ran bad. Turned out it needed a new fuel filter (changed 20K prior but something caused it to go bad)

joe3891 · June 2001

I thing the best way is take to anybody with a scanner,it dosen't have to be a dealer.You need the code thats stored,any thing else is a wild guess,just throwing parts at it will cost you more in the long run.I also have a 99 4 cyl but with only 19 K ,no light yet.

ryanbab · June 2001

all the parts i listed needed to be replaced truck has 100K on it. Also no ses light ever came on

It threw no codes

joe3891 · June 2001

guru101 has a code because he had a light,all ses light on stores a code.

tfazzio · June 2001

I've had a couple problems with my 99 S10.

First, the third door began squeaking constantly. I took it to the dealer and the interior panel had come loose so they popped it back on. It happens from time to time but it's easy to fix on your own.

Second, I always here a rattling sound from exhaust system. I took it to the dealer. Dealer replaced catalytic convertor (about 30,000 miles). It just started up again and I'm bringing it back in. Can anyone tell me why this keeps occurring?

Third, something rattles under the hood but it is very intermittent. I have no idea what it is and dealer has not been able to figure out either.

Last, the passenger seat recline handle sheared off. My friend has the same problem.

Has anyone else experienced any of these issues? Any suggestions?
Thanks

edk6 · June 2001

I have a 93 S-10 Blazer that I originally purchased brand new. It's the 4.3L "W" motor that's on its way out after only 110,000 miles. After just replacing the water pump, intake manifold and the precious fuel injector, the local dealer and another trusted mechanic inform me that the main bearing is knocking and it's time for either a new motor or new vehicle. Talk about a disappoinment! For a vehicle that was mostly dealer maintained with regular tune-ups and oil changes and never saw "off road" terrain. Anyone else experience this with this motor? I've been reading a lot of the other articles here and yes, ball-joint replacements....I'm there twice over. Oh, and I've replaced 3 alternators on this too.

A big hats off to the guy with the 410K miles on that vehicle. I guess some of us get lucky. I certainly expected more out of my Blazer, I don't think I'll be purchasing another one.

qiknis · June 2001

I have had both reclining handles break off. The passenger side on the first use. Now the passenger seat will not recline 10 days after the handle was replaced. The 3rd door handle cable broke. The rear seat rattled, till I ripped it out. The front passenger brake started sqealing at 28,000 miles. While replacing a flat tire the security lug split on the sides so the key would not work. Yes I know what I'm doing, I worked in a tire store in OR for 3 years. Took the truck to a tire shop and had all locking lugs removed. Then snapped a stud on a regular lug. Time for a new car. Oh yea, the DRL and automatic headlights drive me nuts.

davey69 · June 2001

While I like my 2000 Chevy S-10 ZR2 I am having some problems with it. One problem is that it idles extremely rough and sounds like a diesel. But my biggest problem is the steering. It is an automatic trans and whenever I shift from say Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive or back the steering wheel "locks up". Totally can't turn the wheel. I have had a steering gear and power steering pump replaced and has not taken care of the problem. The dealership is telling me that it is because of the size of the tires that stiffness in steering is the problem. But it is not stiffness that is the problem, it is the wheel locking up. Just wondered if anyone else has ever encountered this problem. Thanks! And by the way, I had a S-10 prior to my ZR2 and HOT air coming in down by the floor board occured in both. I was told thats common in S-10's.

jerdavis · June 2001

Hey guys, In the last 3 or so weeks I've been having some problems starting my blazer. The starter is running fine, the engine will turn over, but it won't catch. If I keep trying to start it it gurgles a bit, and eventually It'll start. Once it starts it runs perfect. I've got the 4.3l HO v6. About 110,000 miles.

Here's a better description:
1) turn ignition, no start
2) turn again, engine fires, dies imediatly
3) turn again, no start
4) turn again, engine fires, tries to run, dies
5) ... repeat a few more times
6) turn again, engine fires, smooths out, runs like normal

I've been driving it without problems in the last few weeks, it's just a PITA having to fiddle with it to get it started, and I'm concerned if it'll start at all when it gets cold again.

Any help would be greatly apreciated!

-Jer

schifer · June 2001

You Blazer in a prime target for fuel pump and CPI problems.

Fuel pumps lose thier prime and take a while to reprime. Makes it hard to start. They will soon fail. I changed my at 110,000 to avoid being stranded.

The fuel pressure regulator on the CPI (fuel injector) unit leaks at this age. It will cause the intake plenum to go full rich and flood the engine while setting, resulting in hard starting. This leads to heavy carbon build up and must be fixed.

To check, after the car sets a while, pull off the intake hose and open the throttle valve. If you smell gasoline, you have a problem. I replaced it myself for about $550.

GM will replace California units with under 100,000 miles for free. Everyone else is screwed.

With the new pump and CPI, my 94 runs great.

Scott

mjbwrtr · June 2001

i have a 1993 s-10 with tahoe package...2.8 v6, five speed. i love this truck! the one problem i have with it is that when i put it in first gear and let up on the clutch, it shudders and shakes until i build some speed and go to second gear. this does not seem to be a clutch problem, and it isnt me...i have driven sticks for years. and it didnt always do this. my father in law says maybe a universal could cause that, but i have no idea. and ideas? thanks in advance guys, and keep on truckin'! its got 107k on it now, on its way to 200k, wish me luck.

eharri3 · June 2001

Don't know if you'll see this. Your post was awhile ago. But the extreme is the lowered sport truck version of the S10 right? Thing is, towing doesn't just stress engine and brakes. You may think the V6 will be able to handle the load, but it also puts lots of stress on suspension components. On a lowered sport truck with a handling suspension like yours, the setup is designed for handling, not for heavy loads.

zr2 · June 2001

I agree on the fuel pump. To test, just turn key on don't start. After 2 sec turn key off, and then back on again. Do this 5 times. Now try a full start. If it start right away and keeps running the check-value in fuel pump is bad. Had mine replaced under ext warranty at 55,000 or so ($500 chevy cost).

sailorbeavis · July 2001

My mom has a '94 S-10 (2.2L engine with the 4-speed A/T), which she absolutely loves despite its anaemic acceleration. (I understand why; it came with an awesome detail job that turns heads even from the sports car drivers on the road.)

She got the truck in March '94, which probably means it was made in '93, at the Shreveport, LA plant. The wiper motor's started acting funny - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I searched the NHTSA recall database and found that the '95s were recalled for this problem, but no mention of the '94 model year. I read in one of these posts that the reason for the '95 recall was a bad circuit board.

I'm going to get hold of a Chilton's manual soon enough for the vehicle. Anyone replaced the motor on their '94 themselves? Can't drive in the South in summertime without wipers, as summer storms tend to pop out of nowhere, and I'd hate for her to get into an accident, especially if it's Chevrolet's fault for installing bad OEM equipment.

BTW, anything that can be done to fix the awful acceleration on these 2.2L engines that doesn't involve putting in a small-block V8?

joe3891 · July 2001

Should have bought the 4.3 V6,but then it would cost more.My 99 2.2 is rated 120 hp 140 ft lb torque and goes good,std cab 2 wd auto a/c Leer cap.

greystrk · July 2001

I too had this happen. The gas cap seemed to be on tight. Took it to the dealer and he tightened the gas cap, even though I had already done that, and told me to drive it and see if it went out. He said it can take up to 5 drives, each being 10 miles in duration. Also had a friend who thought his cap was on tight, re tightened it, and the light went out during his next drive.

PAman · July 2001

First, sorry to hear so many of you are having trouble with your S10s. This is my second one, and both have been great, trouble-free trucks. I had a Ford Ranger in between. Nice truck, that Ranger, but never again. Long story.... It will be all GM/Chevrolet products for me from now on.

My current ride is a 2000 S10 Extended cab 2WD, wtih V-6, automatic and loaded to the gills. It's one year old, have nearly 17,000 miles on it and have had no problems, except for my passenger seat recliner handle breaking off. Glad to find out I'm not the only one that happened to.

My question is this: the truck has the 4600 GVW suspension package. When full, it is smooth and totally under control, but when empty, it rides pretty rough. I'd like to know what, if any, modifications other owners have made to improve the ride, but still have a decent load capability.

If you basically rebuilt your entire suspension system to the tune of $3,000-$10,000, thanks, but no thanks. I'm not planning on going that radical. But, if you did try a different brand of shock absorber, tire, or remove that bottom flat leaf from the rear suspension and had good results, let me know.

Thanks,

Joe

jim4444 · July 2001

Trucks are meant to haul or tow etc. Not that that is news to anybody.

My old S10 rode ok and I never worried about it but when I moved halfway across the U.S. and was towing a trailer, man what a difference it made. It was never so smooth.

I have a 99 V6 S10, Z85 suspension and its awesome. When empty the ride can be rough. I havent loaded it down like I did with my old truck yet but I didnt buy an Impala either.

The uniroyals that came with the truck are a joke, a little rain and you could put a feather on the gas pedal and you'd be sideways.

So I got real tires, Michelins and my truck is fine.

Its a truck. Not a car or El Camino.

Maybe tires will help you out, maybe you need a car?

PAman · July 2001

Jim,

Not very helpful. Yes, I know its a truck. Yes, I've owned two El Caminos, and know the difference. Yes, I've owned two S-10s, and yes, I've ridden in trucks that ride better than my S10. And, yes, I know the difference between a car ride and a truck ride. That is not what I asked....

Once again, I'm looking for anyone that has tried various shock/tire combinations, or any other reasonable modification that noticably changed the ride of their S10.

Joe

hemihead · July 2001

Sup guys,

I have a 97 S-10 with a 4banger and a 5spd with about 91k on it, good truck, glad I got the extended warrenty. Anywho, like Jim, I put Michelins on mine, 215/70/R15 X-ones to be exact. These tires just put the useless-royals that it came with to shame, they handle great, don't scream when you make a U-turn, wear perfect, and most importantly, are really good in wet weather. With the other tires, I also could lite'm up in the rain when not trying, not to mention the rear tires coming loose while goin up a hill on a freeway at 60mph. The michelins came with an 8yr unlimited mileage warrenty, you just can't beat that. The current set I have was replaced for free, wore the others out in about 2 yrs commuting to school on a windy country road. They are just great all around, they wear very well too if you keep them rotated. I wore that other set out just taking corners to fast and such, but I kept them rotated to make it all even. They also look good, better stance than the skinny tires it came with, they didn't last like 20k until they were at the wear marks. SO, I highly suggest these tires, very safe, good traction, and well wearing tires. As for shocks, replaced the factory ones with Monroe sensa-tracs, they have been really good too, lifetime warrenty. I have noticed that most S-10s have a rear sagging problem when they are not loaded, mine did that from day one, was just weird, I even have the heavier suspension. I put monroe sensa-trac load stabilizing shocks on the back. They are basically the same as the regular xept they are beefier and have springs on them, this raised up the rear end a bit and makes it handle well when hauling stuff. This combination makes it handle very well also, the ride is also not to bad. One other thing, how long are the clutches lasting in your trucks and does anyone have a tach on their 4 cyl, if so, what does it redline and idle at? I put an aftermarket on mine, just wanna know.

Cheers,
RYan

joe3891 · July 2001

Mine has dash red lines starting at 5800 rpm & solid red lines starting at 6400 rpm.The idle speed is 900 rpm,I asked the dealer if that was too high and he said no,I think its because of the clutch fan being engine driven.Any other questions just ask.

Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions