Mazda Protege5

bluong1 · January 2002

how is this white P5?

douglam · January 2002

Thanks Bruno. I went out to clean my windows just now (I washed and waxed yesterday). I tried using Windex with a cotton cloth and got rid of the spots. But then it was streaky. So i tried using Windex with a crumpled up newspaper (read from another forum). It works great!!! now the window is really clean without spots or streaks!!!

I'm gonna have to warn my passengers NOT to touch the windows... hehehe

elec3 · January 2002

as long as it's a paper where the ink is pretty set and not going to come off onto your windows with moisture. It's fairly easy to tell whether this is the case by simply looking at your thumbs after reading the Sunday paper.

I also highly recommend shop towels for removing water spots and streaks by hand although this can get pricy. The problem with cotton (like an old undershirt or a towel) is that it often leaves fibers behind on your window or will streak if the material has any oils or detergents left in it (fabric softeners are notorious because they're basically fat in liquid form...they or even skin oil will be enough to streak and smear your windows).

Also because my Pro5 is still fairly new, I have that problem where chemicals in the plastic form an oily film on my interior windows. I usually use paper towels and some stuff called Fog-X every month or so to make sure my windows are clear on the inside. It bugs me mainly at night when streetlights and headlights show you just how many smudges and smears there are on the inside of your windows.

Sporin · January 2002

I'll have to measure mine and let you know.

mazdafun · January 2002

You can use cotton towels for drying off your car. But, like elec3 said, avoid using fabric softener or those dryer sheets on them. They deposit fatty substances, which can leave streaks on glass.

Mine are so old, they don't shed many fibers anymore. After wiping off glass cleaner or water, I follow up with a dry one and buff away any remaining streaks.

douglam · January 2002

Ok, so when you guys are done with these towels, how do you wash them? Especially those that are used for waxing? I wouldn't think it'll be wise to wash them all in a same machine using hot water.

mazdafun · January 2002

I wash them in hot water, with hot-water rinse. I used only detergent. No softener. No dryer sheets. If there is a lot of dirt or wax, I use a pre-wash cycle and then a full wash cycle. I've been doing this for almost ten years, with the same washing machine.

protege_fan · January 2002

I think that it's a good idea to wash your towels that you use for waxing seperately from the ones that are used solely for drying. At least that's what I do.

bluong1 · January 2002

I wash the waxing cloth and the drying/cleaning cloth separately. Before I put them on the washing machine, they have to swim at least half of the day in a detergent mixture.
I dry them in the open-air, and prefer not to "overdry" them so it remains humid and soft.

Bruno

elec3 · January 2002

about your towels, I really recommend disposables. I find that streaking and spotting on the paint isn't a big deal and can be easily removed...usually it's not even visible on my silver Pro5 so I just leave it. It's the windows that bother me. I'll give them a thorough wash and then a dry with a rag or chamois. After they're totally dry, I usually go back with newspaper, paper towel, or shop towels and rub out any remaining streaks or spots. Paper towels work ok but often break down or leave fibers on your windows. I prefer shop towels because they're softer, stronger, and don't really leave anything behind but, like I said, it can get expensive buying these all the time for your windows.

For the insides of my windows, I'll usually use Windex or a similar glass cleaner and paper towels for the once over and then go back with newspaper or shop towels to rub out streaks. Sometimes I also use that Fog-X stuff which I usually apply with paper towels (you put it on, let it sit a few minutes until it gets hazy like wax does, then rub it all off until your window is clear). It's supposed to keep your windows from fogging up. I find it works well for almost a month.

iamz · January 2002

Be carefull not to use Windex or any cleaner with ammonia on your tinted window film. The instructions for care of my tinted window film stated not to use ammonia on it. I don't know why it states that, but I don't want anyone to wreck their window tint.

Sporin · January 2002

I have been using my own formula for window cleaning for years now. I do auto detailing as a side-business and needed something that really worked but didn't cost a bundle.

2 parts distilled water + 1 part Isopropyl Alchohol.

No streaking, won't harm other materials, costs about 43¢ to make a big bottle of it.

meinrad · January 2002

I was at the dealer last night but forgot to take my tape measure. If any of you wonderful P5 owners out there would do me a favor, I'm wondering what is the width in the hatch area. When I popped the hatch last night it seemed pretty skinny between the wheels. I had wanted to measure it, to see how my stollers, golf clubs, etc. would fit in there, but it was the one thing I forgot.
Two things though I was happy with, the headroom with the sunroof was still good for me and I like how the hatch works. That it just has it's own handle and doesn't need a hatch release.
Getting closer to joining the family.......

protege_fan · January 2002

Actually, my friend at work got her P5 windows tinted and the guy said that he recommended using windex. He said that the old films had trouble with it, but now you can use windex with no troubles.

My suggestion would be to ask your tint installer on care instructions, including how long you have to wait before rolling down the windows.

doctor_r · January 2002

I like Sporin's idea for window cleaning, however I use a mixture of Ammonia and water. Usually I just use a regular old cotton towel to dry with and a chamois to wash with. Ammonia in the water will get rid of all the impurities in the water and leave your windows streak-free. It does however take a little bit more elbow grease to get all the moisture off your windows. Ammonia is basically the only active ingredient in things like windex anyways...

moo01 · January 2002

The width of the hatch area is about 3 feet (plus 1-2in). I purchased a treadmill recently and the box fit perfectly in the back with seats down and hatch completely closed. The box measured 2'x 3'x 5'.

douglam · January 2002

ashutoshsm · January 2002

This has appeared here (or the sedans board) before.
Hoax! IIRC

Of course (and I think most current P5 owners will agree) - the P5 looks great as it is, and is certainly better looking than this block!

the_big_h · January 2002

they throw it out to get reactions, much cheaper than building an actual concept car!

ah the wonder of modern technology...

meinrad · January 2002

Cool, thanks, thats what I needed to know. I'm going home to measure some stuff now.

ateixeira · January 2002

That looks more like a Mazda 6 wagon than a P5. But the actual 6 wagon is nicer looking, sleeker. That photochop looks like it stole the D-pillar from the Pontiac Vibe.

-juice

mazdafun · January 2002

Which looks pretty ugly IMO. Ditto the C-pillar on the new Altima. What're designers thinking? That kind of stuff looks unnecessarily busy and ruins the lines of cars. Now check out the back end of the new BMW 7-series. That is UGLY! Shame. The rest of the car looks OK.

meaford · January 2002

Does anyone know if and when the Japanese version of the Pro5 will be available in Nth America? It has 170 hp and I am thinking about waiting for it.

riopelle · January 2002

I love my P5, and think it looks much better without the roof rack (which I had removed by the dealer) But I must say I think this photoshop concept is significantly better looking than the current P5 - it's got a bit of Audi TT or BMW Z3 in the line (maybe some Peuguot too), a nice long hood, and I love the lower greenhouse and the shorter overhangs. This is a nice complement to the New Mazda6 - will they rename the Protege and P5 as numbers too? Five requests for the next P5, Mazda - heated leather seats as an option, 6 speakers, 150+hp, MSRP no more than $20K, and keep the same great handling of my car. Meanwhile, I will continue to love my P5.

Sporin · January 2002

The official word is that the Pro5 as you see it now is a 1 year only deal. One looooooong model year as it premiered as a very early '02 and will stay late.

There will certainly be a wagon version of the next-generation Protege when it is redesigned along with the Ford Focus. The next Proteges will be built off the all-new Ford Focus platform, as will the Volvo 40-series cars.

It is expected that bigger engines and more power will come to the US with that next generation of cars.

Everything else is rumor, inuendo, and hearsay. :--)

ateixeira · January 2002

I agree 100% on the BMW 7 series. They should lock that hunchback up in a church, and watch, it would yell "sanctuary!"

-juice

elec3 · January 2002

Still a good job, but notice how the backgrounds look artificial and out of focus. The stones (I think) under the car could be real but that green hill and the blue/gray stuff? Hmm. The glass doesn't exactly look right either. Anyway, I don't know if I'd buy one of those or not. The lines are not as smooth as the current Pro5. The front of this concept looks a little Mercedes but the nose is all stubby. The back end reminds me a bit of an Audi or the newer Volvos. It doesn't look bad but it's no improvement over what's currently offered. Notice in that picture how much of the car looks to be wheels

meaford: Don't hold your breath. We'll likely never see the 170 horse, AWD version of the Pro5 sold in Japan.

Sporin: I was actually hoping for that as it may make the Pro5 retain some value as a "limited edition" model. IMHO the Protege5 is far better than any of the Focus wagon/hatchback offerings, at least in terms of looks. I'm hoping and wishing the new Focus based Protege line will not prove to be better than the current line so that when I go to sell my Pro5 in 4-5 years, it'll actually have retained some value.

As far as power, more would be nice, and in about a year I'll be working full time and should have the money to mess with my Pro5. If I stay in southern New Mexico, I'm looking at a cold air intake, new exhaust headers, a straight pipe in place of the catalytic converter (there are no emissions tests here because there are no people and is no pollution), a freer flow exhaust and muffler, probably some nice tint and a better stereo system. No Type-R sticker or racing team decals though

I'd just like some more power. Which is why I'm contemplating a Subaru WRX for a next vehicle.

Sporin · January 2002

I'm planning on adding the AEM ShortStack intake and a cat-back exhaust in the spring. Bosel sells a unit that removes one of the cats (48-state legal).

mazdafun · January 2002

Too bad. I like the P5 as it is now (maybe a little more hp and torque). I definitely think its styling is tops amongst the wagon/5-dr hatchback crowd (even amongst 3-dr hatches). Even the Lexus sport wagon looks lumpy and disproportioned in comparison.

I DO NOT like the concept that was recently posted. Looks like a shoe. Front end is one big slab (I don't think that was an improvement on the current Passat over the old either). It also seems visibility is compromised greatly. That impacts vehicle safety.

Rob360 · January 2002

I must say that I am surprised by some of the mileage numbers being posted here. They seem quite low. I am very happy to report that I am getting close to 32 mpg! My last tank I got 33.5 mpg!

I drive about 80% on the freeway. If you use a light foot, keep the car at about 70 mph on the freeway, and accelerate slowly and evenly on city streets, this car is capable of getting great mileage!

I have 2100 miles on my Vivid Yellow P5 and so far I LOVE it!

Sporin · February 2002

I can drive it like I stole is and still get 28mpg. :-)

vocus · February 2002

I used to have a 2001 Protege ES automatic, and I drove it pretty hard. I used to get like 23-25 mpg on regular with it. I now have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T, and get about the same (on premium fuel though) but the car has a LOT more power than the Pro ES did.

elec3 · February 2002

Depending on god knows what. Temperature, how I drive it, city/highway. I can vouch that my fuel gauge is way nonlinear though

I filled up today and drove 100 miles and my gauge indicates I still have 3/4 of a tank. While 400 miles on 14 gallons would be nice, it ain't gonna happen. At least not for me. I think fuel economy may be a bit worse here because the gas is 86 octane to compensate for altitude...I'm just above 4000 feet. Also, I tend to drive fast, or at least at high rpms once the engine is warmed up. Sure you could shift at 3000 all the time but that means you've got 3500 revs you never use. Also speed limits out here are 70 or 75 making driving 70-80mph very reasonable.

And for anyone curious, with my automatic, 70mph is achieved at just a hair over 3000rpm and 80 can be done at 3500. This car is a tremendous expressway commuter type car and is very quick and agile in the 60-80mph range. 80 is pretty effortless and very stable and everything up to that point the Pro does with a salute and a "Yes sir!" Beyond 80 you get more of a "Are you sure you want to do that, Dave? Well...ok..."

boopoppa · February 2002

my beautiful midnight blue mp5 was egged sometime last night, once on the windshield, once on the rear passenger door...left a mess. Went to self-serve carwash today and cleaned it off withe the high pressure hose.

then when i examined the car, i think i found the point of impact on the door...what looks like small circular radiating scratch marks about the diameter of an egg. is this possible? can an egg thrown at impact cause fairly large, visible scratches in the paint? or is it just stuck residue that i wasn't able to clean off? i tried some bug/tar remover on it, and it didnt' work so now i'm really worried that it's scratched.

protege_fan · February 2002

I hate to say it, but I think that an egg thrown with any degree of force could easily leave scratch marks, especially at the point of impact. The egg shell is definitely harder than the paint and therefore could scratch the paint. I really feel for you

the_big_h · February 2002

and buff that thing out!

btw, mind if I ask why you were egged in the first place? Perhaps someone jealous of your beautiful P5?

tbay · February 2002

Would appreciate feedback about how the P5 does with its wide low profile tires in the snow. Thanks.

robr2 · February 2002

...yep - my sister-in-law's black 300M has an oval shaped spot with literally about 2 dozen scratches from where the egg hit the door with a glancing blow. Took the black off right down to the gray primer.

douglam · February 2002

LMAO

bluong1 · February 2002

you almost kill me since I couldn't stop laughing. ;-)

boopoppa · February 2002

so I'm getting the feeling from you folks that replied, that indeed, I got egg scratched. however, when I run my fingers over it, I don't really feel any catching, so it doesn't seem deep, but the color looks almost whitish/grey.

what do you suggest I do to remedy this

scrambled,
boopoppa

PS: no idea why this happened

elec3 · February 2002

douglam: The ground effects and tint look good though I admit I could do without the decals and oversized hatch-handle. If I had some extra money lying around I'd probably do some deep tint myself. Those rims don't do much for me though and I'm undecided about a sport exhaust - I like the looks and possible performance gains but I don't like the "weedwhacker on steroids" sound most have.

boopoppa: A friend of mine had his white Integra egged and the egg did leave several minute scratches in the paint including a couple on his rear bumper that went down to the primer. Best I can suggest is what big_h already has. Get some scratch remover or touch up paint and just buff 'em out.

douglam · February 2002

Probably just the clear coat is slightly scratched. I would definitely try some normal, non-abrasive wax on the egged area. It may cover up the scratches.

If this doesn't work, then you need some wax with light abrasives to smoothen out the scratches, then rebuff with non-abrasive wax.

And to those who are wondering... NO, that white shopping cart is not mine.

(I wouldn't mind getting those ground effects, tint and wheels though)

protege_fan · February 2002

Merguiar's and Mother's both make scratch-removing products. I know Merguiar's is called "Scratch-X", but I can't remember what Mother's product is called.

Follow the directions carefully and it may be able to help you. I've heard it can take quite some time actually getting the stuff to make a noticeable difference as it is a mild abrasive.

Other than that, maybe a professional can help you out. Good luck.

meinrad · February 2002

Thought I'd be done shopping by today, but Saturdays trip to a dealer just got me the promise of a call back after running a search today. Was just hoping for a quick price and do a deal, but it hasn't happened that way. Oh well, eventually I'll join the P5 family......

ateixeira · February 2002

Why a huge rear spoiler and lower air defusers on a FRONT-wheel drive car, anyway?

Boy, my sides hurt from LOL.

-juice

stropro5 · February 2002

Hello,

I'm a new Protege5 owner (700 miles in 2 weeks), great car, I love it.

However, this is the first Standard Transmission car I have driven in about 5 years, and I think I was working the clutch wrong this past weekend:

The Problem: Overloaded Car (Me + 4 college buds = about 1200 pounds) starting from stop on a steep hills.

The Result: When I pulled away from the steep stop there was a bad smell (similar to burning rubber). The first time I thought it was the tires... but the next two times it happened, I was beginning to think it was the Clutch??? I have started from many steep hills before (with only myself in the car) with no smell.

The ANSWER???: Can any one help and tell me in what way I was seriously harming my new baby. And how I can avoid this in the future (aside from putting myself and my buds on a diet)

Thanks,

maltb · February 2002

Congrats on getting 5 250# people into your Pro 5.

If you are starting on hills just get the clutch out as soon as possible even if you have to bog the engine a little. Either way it's not something you want to do daily.

dsm6 · February 2002

Some folks will use the hand brake to hold the car from sliding back while starting on a hill with a manual. This will allow you to get going as you usually would on a flat surface. Just don't forget to release the hand brake. :-)

Of course, this may just end up trading off burning up brakes instead of clutch, but ...

elec3 · February 2002

I've had myself and 4 college buddies in my auto Pro5 before, combined weight probably 1000 pounds or so. I'm really surprised how little this effects the feel of the car (considering passengers are approaching half the weight of the vehicle itself). Steering feels a bit more sluggish and the whole vehicle feels a bit weighed down. The engine is a champ - even though the car is no longer really quick (I don't like to zoom around with even another 200+ pound passenger - the difference is noticeable), there is plenty of power available for around town driving. You just can't punch it and expect it to go like it does when it's only you. And my friends keep coming back when they remember my car has 4 doors and a real back seat. That's a luxury when you're a college student. Well that and the fact that I don't eat in my car or use it as a storage unit, so it's usually pretty clean inside.

Mazda Protege5

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