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Jeep Wrangler

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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    IIRC, the only TJ's that had a LS in the back was the Rubicon, whose locker acted as a LS when not engaged. Mac will probably correct me though. :)

    You're correct on the description of the Rubicon's locker, but the Trac-Loc limited slip has always been an option on other models, on both the D35 and D44 axles.

    Several ways to check. Tag on the diff cover bolt, sticker in the glove box, and with the rear end jacked off the ground and one wheel is rotated the other will rotate in the same direction. If the diff is open then the wheels will rotate in opposite driection.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The smaller backspacing MAY cause more wear on the hub, regardless of choice (wheel or spacer), but on my 97, I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary and I've been running them over 1 year now.

    No, the smaller back spacing WILL cause more wear on the hub! :shades:

    However, with the wheel bearings likely to last the life of the vehicle, even a 50% increase in wear isn't something to cause immediate concern.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    I have created a discussion in the Jeep Wrangler Forum called "Backspacing and Maximum Tire Width." When folks come here to ask "How wide can I go on tires for my Jeep?" we can refer them to that discussion.

    Of course, we welcome them to THIS discussion and ask them to become one of the family. That's a given.

    I guess we are going to sort of end up with the something similar to what I proposed many moons ago, when I suggested that we start threads for the most commonly asked questions. Most of you guys at that time feared that to do so would discourage people from coming to this general discussion and becoming part of our family. I could see your point, and I decided that you were most likely right, so I didn't try to create new single-issue forums.

    Apparently, Edmunds wants those single-issue discussions, so let's give it a fair chance to work, what do you guys say? Please be sure in put in a plug for this discussion when you create a new discussion or participate in an on-going discussion in the single-issue threads.

    Tomster
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Er....... Tom, before you create any more threads could you wait another day or two? Trust me! ;)

    P.S. You might check the last few posts over here: Forums Software! Your Questions Answered...
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    OK, Macster. I read your "Let's Talk Specifics" message, and you were very articulate in presenting our case. You, along with many others, have gotten the attention of Management, so maybe there is hope for something very close, if not identical, to what we had. Thanks, Mac.

    I'll hold off on creating any more new discussions until we see which way things are going to go around here.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    Glad to see things may be back to normal here.

    I went to the off-road expo this weekend. I guess it is a new event. It is only taking place in three cities this year. I hope they continue it and that it gets bigger and better every year. I forgot my camera so I didn't get any pics.

    Off-Road Expo link

    Here is a pic of my Jeep after getting in some mud without my doors. I didn't realize it was that muddy where I was going. I did end up stuck and eventually got out. It made me laugh when I had to drive a couple hours home with my Jeep looking like this.
    image
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Thanks for all the warm replies. Really glad to be in the Jeep family. I am in Bay area CA. I'll sure want to check out Turkey bay if I have a chance to visit KY.

    The tire rotataion test for LS seems to be very interesting and I'll give it a try over the weekend.

    I plan to stay on stock for a few months until I figure out what to do next. Mostly likely a small lift of 2" or 3".

    One thing I dont like about the Jeep is the raw plastic color on the fender flares. I am thinking about spray paint them to semi-gloss black.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    4rider:

    No personal experience, but many people swear by Krylon Fusion paint for the fender flares. It supposedly bonds real well with the plastic.

    Do a search on "Krylon," and you will be able to read for yourself the many posts on the subject.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    I read Tom's post suggesting Krylon Fusion paint. I have used it several times with fairly good results. It seems to depend on the surface and of course the prep. The smoother and harder the surface the more difficult it is to get it to bond. Check out the prep instructions for best results. Good Luck, John
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Thanks Tom for the search tip on the Krylon. I did not realize there were quite a few people felt the same way on the color or discolor of the flares.
  • brazucabrazuca Member Posts: 95
    I also have used a product called "Forever Black" (you can find it on ebay) which brings back the color on faded black plastic / rubber. It had worked very well on my Jeep and it's supposed to last over a Year, easy to apply and no mess. I used it last month and so far ... so good. Just a suggestion. ;)
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Brazuca:

    I don't think 4rider's flares were ever black. From the way his post reads, I would say he got one of those Jeeps that came from the factory with the ugly gray flares. I'm pretty sure 05 was the year when DC decided to leave the flares gray, but that didn't even last through the entire model year. There was an uproar among the Jeepers over those UGLY gray flares, and DC backed off and went back to black.

    Do a search, and I'll bet you will find TONS of posts about those gray flares. Those things were so ugly they would gag a maggot.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Tom is right here. I dont think mine are faded. My flares apear to be very new but in gray color. The kind of "raw" platic color that you can find in some base model cars' bumpers. When the flares appears next to the runnig board, which is black, they look really dull or simply cheap.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to know why DC does stuff like that sometimes, though at least they listened in the end.

    If Krylon is to be used, then as was said earlier, surface prep is really important, and the newer the plastic the more important it is. I'd suggest doing an area on the underside of the flare first.

    You might also think about replacing the flares with aftermarket ones (Bushwacker maybe) which seem to retain their color better than O.E. ones.

    image

    Bushwacker.com
  • fairviewfairview Member Posts: 20
    I used Rhino Shine on my flares to turn them back to black. It is sold by Rhino Lining dealers to keep your Rhino lining black. Works great on flares. I put it on about three years ago and I probably should reapply it now because it is staring to turn gray again. Just rough up the flare with sandpaper and paint the stuff on.
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    I would definately agree with Mac and consider getting new flares. Otherwise you will keep on trying to get the color you want but I don't think it will happen with paint. As I mentioned, I have used Kyrlon Fusion with initial success but after time it was chip city.

    Mac, I have an interesting question for you. A friend of mine asked how many revolutions the "average" Jeep wheel will turn in one mile? Strange question but how does one figure this out? John
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    John,

    I'm not mac, but if you consider the "average" to be 30 inch diameter, you would get about 672 turns per mile. 32's would get around 630.

    Wheel diameter times pi (3.1416) gives you circumference in inches. Divide by 12 to convert to feet. Divide the circumference (number of feet in one turn) into 5280 feet per mile to get the number of revolutions per mile.

    Terry

    Terry
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The only thing I would add is that one should consider the 'rolling' radius to calculate the diameter for the equation i.e. r/r x2. The rolling radius being the radius of the tire reduced by the weight of the vehicle bearing on it. Just measure from the center of the wheel to the ground. I would guess that average unloaded tire size for the majority of TJs would be 28" (30" being an option). When allowing for the loaded deflection of the tire, I'm guessing half an inch reduction in radius, that comes to around 747.

    To satisfy the original question for an average figure, it would probably fair to ballpark it at somewhere between 650 and 750, but it would be easier to give an reasonably accurate figure for an actual Jeep. If a completely accurate answer is required then the speed of the Jeep is relevant, as the tire will 'grow' back from its weight reduced radius because of centrifugal force, which will increase with speed.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    hmmm, I did the Krylon Fusion last month on the flares and have been pretty happy with the results. We'll see how long it lasts. Mother's "Back to Black" didn't do squat.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Yeh mac, mine was just a ball park estimate. I wonder what DC uses when they figure the speedometer design? I bet they have some "standard" factor they use based on many measurements at different loads and speeds.

    Terry
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm sure they do, and their figures err on the conservative side. If they indicated you were going slower than you actually were, then you could imagine the lawsuits for unintentional speeding tickets. Showing a higher speed also has the effect of making the odometer roll over quicker, so your warranty finishes a little sooner than it should and gas mileage figures look better.

    My OE speedo gear was off by 8% with factory fitted 30"s, but it's spot on with 31"s.
  • koolbreeze2koolbreeze2 Member Posts: 252
    Mac and Terry, thanks for the extremely complete information. I will forward this on to my Silverado driving friend. This is what makes the site so benefical and fun. Thanks, John
  • jack_pjack_p Member Posts: 2
    Two weeks ago I put my hardtop back on my 05 Wrangler Unlimited after storing it outdoors on 8' 2X4's for 7 months and it appears to be warped. It leaks like a sieve and the rear wiper hits the rear brake light holder. Any help is much appreciated.
    Thanks for a great forum.
  • ocean_shipperocean_shipper Member Posts: 70
    Jack - I thank you for posting this issue. While I can't offer any advise or assistance, I have stored my hardtop on my garage floor since I took it off in late May.

    Yesterday, the wife, teenagers, and I put it back on with NO problems. The only issue that became problematic was loosing the space in the garage which prompted me to put it on a little sooner than I wanted to.

    I was thinking about storing it next year under our elevated deck in the back outside. Your post has convinced me that this is not a good idea.

    Mac, Tomster, et. al - This is just the kind of general reading that we needed to get back to instead of that silly system that Edmunds was forcing on us. Without having to post for a particular issue, my general reading alerted me to a potential situation to avoid that I MIGHT not have seen in the 'problem specific' forum.

    This proves that the old 'Jeep Wrangler' forum is still the BEST! -- Chuck
  • keatskeats Member Posts: 412
    You might just need to adjust the top. Just because the pegs are in the holes, doesn't mean you have it lined up correctly. There is still a bit of room for adjustment side-to-side. Loosen the bolts and try again. Or you could take it to the dealer. I noticed the first year I put my top back on, there was a gap in the back window you could put your finger through. Dealer adjusted the window glass and it's been fine each time since then.
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Years ago, I went to a local truck shell dealership to get a camper shell for my Chevy 1500. I noticed that they stored all the shells outdoor with some kind of fastening rods to avoid the shell from being expanded or contracted out of shape.

    For home use, I think if we bolt the hardtop on a simple wood frame made of 2x4s may help keeping the hardtop in shape particularly if it is stored outside.
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Here are some of my findings out of my 30 miles of ownership experience so far:

    I am getting used to the road noise level as well as the puzzling off-the-line hesitation now.

    One interesting point I have noticed is that every time I make a turn, I can feel some kind of flexing and fishtailing in the back. When I travel straight on city streets, I can also get similar "wondering around" feeling enough to make me feel the Jeep is not willing to go straight. I vaguely remember test drove new Jeep also gave me the similar feeling.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    I stored mine upright on a homemade cart I built for cheap back in may or april--I posted pics back then on the forum, go look for it you're interested. Worked fine. Just put it back on the jeep and no warping or leaks.
  • jack_pjack_p Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice - I'll be busy trying out your advice this weekend. - and thanks for a GREAT forum. Jack :)
  • cherokee123cherokee123 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me what they know about the 2007 wrangler with the 3.8 engine? In the past I had a 2001 wrangler with the 4.0 which was a good strong engine, I just wanted to know how they compare as I consider an 07 wrangler. Is this 3.8 related to the 3.7 that is used in the Liberty?
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    I'd like to hear someone's opinion on that engine myself. Not that I'm in the market for a new Jeep, but I'm just curious how that puppy is going to work out for people who like to off road.

    Lots of low end torque is needed for off roading, and that good old inline 4.0 had plenty of it.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you are coming for a 2.5L or 2.4L 4 cylinder, you'll probably love it. If you are used to the 4.0 i6 engine, you'll probably be a bit disappointed.

    The 3.8 is a version of the engines they are putting in the minivans (and maybe the Pacifica?) and not is not as related to the Liberty's engine as it is the minivans.

    Many feel it adequate for on road, but with it had a bit more oomph, especially with the 4 door.

    I personally haven't driven one yet.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I haven't driven one myself in this configuration, but I've been hearing that the new 4dr Unlimited Rubicon (the heaviest Wrangler version) is struggling when used for light towing.
  • mrnaturalmrnatural Member Posts: 21
    Maybe someone has experinced what I'm going through and can help with some good info. My '99 TJ's soft top is in excellent shape but last winter my Jeep dog Reggie stuck his nose through the back window. According to 4Wheel Parts their replacement tinted windows do not fit OEM soft tops. The Jeep dealer wants about $250 for a replacement back window only. I realize for a couple hun more I can get a RAT with tinted windows and slide for the next 5 years or so. Problem is I have been on disability for over a year and had a knee replacement 3 weeks ago. Is there another option to find a back window to fit my OEM top. I'd really like the 3 tinted window option if it would fit. If anyone has the strait scoop on this I'd really appreciate some help breaking the code. Thanks!
    Alan in the Desert
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You can't get a tinted back window alone, but you can get a set of all three for $170. You need Bestop Tinted Windows to fit the Replace-a-Top, which is patterned on the OE top made for Jeep by Bestop.

    Here are the product details (my bold emphasis):

    "Product Details
    Manufactured to OEM tolerances by Bestop, this set will help you to keep your interior cooler with 31% tinted rear windows. Three piece tinted window sets will reduce heat build-up. And let's face it - they look cool too! Versions for all '97-'00 Wranglers with the orginal top or with a Bestop® Replace-a-top™.
    Bestop offers replacement sets for your aging, damaged or lost windows."

    Here is the link to the Black ones, but also available in Dark Tan and Spice:

    Bestop@Quadratec

    image
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    From the respective Jeep sales literature, following are the maximum torque ratings for the 3.8 and 4.0 engines;

    3.8L - 237 ftlb @ 4,000 rpm
    4.0L - 235 ftlb @ 3,200 rpm

    Although a graph is not shown, it is logical to assume that the 3.8L has less torque available at 3,200 rpm than the 4.0L and probably less most of the way down to idle conditions.
  • mrnaturalmrnatural Member Posts: 21
    Yeah, that's exactly the setup I want but 4Wheel Parts in Bakersfield says that the zipper is not compatible. I have an email into Besttop for an official determination. Hopefully the Bakersfield guys are just inexperienced (new store and all) and the tinted window set will work out. Thanks for the response. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    A quick search pulled this up, but there's lots more out there.

    The red line is the relevant one here. As you imply, a high level of torque is available even at idle (750rpm), then rises to a peak at 3200rpm before dropping a little at maximim revs. However, the term 'peak' is a little misleading because, as can be seen from the graph the curve is virtually flat, which is what makes the 4.0 I6 so good at low speed and for towing.

    image
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Everybody has their own opinions, but one tire that makes a very good replacement is the BF Goodrich All Terrain AT/ KO. It has good grip in both the wet and dry, wears extremely well, works well on most surfaces except goopy mud, balances well, is readily available and reasonably priced, and finally, it looks good.

    Oh, and other than using them myself, I have no connection with BFG or any other tire company.

    image
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I used the BFG AT's on my TJ when I lived in California. They were GREAT on the road and GREAT offroad in the California conditions. Like Mac said, they DO kinda suck in the mud. And since I live out here in Alabama now, I have switched to mud terrains (and a larger size).

    NO REGRETS about the BFG AT.

    As for the windows, Bakersfield finally got a 4 Wheel Parts? Bout time. They were lacking for a 4x4 shop (I used to live in Tehachapi).

    If you have concerns about the replacment windows, take your Jeep there and try on a set of the windows that they say won't work. That is the surest way to find out.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Alan, so how is Cal City? :) Used to live in Tehachapi myself.

    As for your 99, you have the basic 1 ply top. To survive the heat wind and conditions you see in Cal City, the sailcloth replace-a-top may be a good option if you can swing it.

    I bought my 97 with the same type top from a Lt.Col. at EAFB and the top was so thin you could see the sun through it. I put on a R-A-T and the difference in sound was incredible. Since it doesn't rain much there, the RAT is more for sound abatement, but it is worth it.

    If you can't, try eBay and see what is available. There are always windows available.

    -Paul
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    However, the term 'peak' is a little misleading because, as can be seen from the graph the curve is virtually flat, which is what makes the 4.0 I6 so good at low speed and for towing.

    I really need to replace the TJ with something that has four doors and at least a little more room. The new Unlimited looked like the answer until I read a few tests. Why should I pay a premium for a vehicle that is slower, less capable off road, and no more economical than my TJ?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Very good question. :(

    However, I have to admit that engine is the only thing I don't like about the new '07s, apart from the unavoidable complexity of the new electronic stability systems. To my eyes it really is a step forward. Unfortunate the 4.0 I6 is gone and won't ever be coming back. How long can you wait? There are usually many improvements to subsequent model years of any new vehicle, and DC has been no exception to this in the past. Also, I don't think it will be long before the aftermarket starts offering solutions (other than the usual air filter stuff).
  • fairviewfairview Member Posts: 20
    I have run the BFGs and liked them. Now I am running the Firestone Destination AT and, from what I can see so far, they are just as good. I heard about them from my brother-in-law who owns a construction company and has a big fleet of pickup trucks. The Firestone AT is all he runs.
  • itabackitaback Member Posts: 21
    I am looking at the 2007 Unlimited as a possible new car. I have wanted a convertible for a long time, but with three kids (ages 5, 9 and 12), I have been hesitant to get a vehicle with only 4 seats, which all convertibles have (except for this baby). Our primary family vehicle is a Chevy Tahoe and this car is really intended to be my commuter vehicle, but one in which I may at times need to drive the entire family.

    I am used to driving relatively sporty midsize sedans. I know this car will not drive like a midsize sport sedan, but what I would like to know from current owners is whether the 2007 new Jeep has "sufficient" power and handling prowess.... or do you feel it is woefully inadequate...

    There is a major "coolness" factor to this vehicle. It is the ONLY 5 seat convertible out there!! That alone may justify a sacrifice in power/handling....

    Now, I DO realize that power and handling is an individual thing with every person being satisfied with different levels of each.... That being said, I am just looking for generalizations....

    Thank you very much!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    As you say, individual perceptions of power and handling will vary. It depends so much on how you drive and in what conditions. Many adverse comments here are in comparison to the previous engine. This shouldn't affect you as you'll be coming to it fresh.

    The new 3.8 V6 actually has a higher output of both torque and hp compared to the 4.0 I6, it's just that they come in at different points in the rev range, which changes the response characteristics, both on and off road. In simple terms it means it has to be revved higher in traffic than the previous engine, but it should keep up without any problems.

    To see if it suits you, you really need to take an extended test drive in the conditions that you intend to use it. Drive it for a while solo, then loaded with family etc. My opinion as to its suitability would almost certainly be different to yours.
  • itabackitaback Member Posts: 21
    Thanks Mac24. I certainly will follow your advice!
  • mrnaturalmrnatural Member Posts: 21
    Howdy Paul,
    Cal City is still trying to grow. Right now we have way too many builders putting up overpriced houses they will surely lose their a**es on soon.

    Anyway I understand the economy and usefulness of investing in a new top but I have a hard time tossing one that is still good as well as my side curtains and quarter windows.
    The main concern is that winter is coming on quick and I'll miss no back window soon. I hope to hear from Besttop on Mon. so I can make the right decision and move on. Normally, I wouldn't squeak about having to invest in the best but with knee surgery and having been mostly laid up for so long makes $ a consideration for the next couple of months.
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Coming back from hunting this weekend, i started having trouble shifting. It started out with a rough downshift from 4th to 3rd with grinding. Then, on the way home, i could not get into 5th gear. The shifter would go, but once i let off the clutch, there was just grinding. Initially, i thought the throw out bearing might have gone, but the 5th gear problem threw me off. Now, around town, i have trouble getting into any gear, although sometimes can with double clutching. What kind of trouble am I in?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like a typical synchromesh failure, though the fact that it's affecting all the gears points to the failure being caused by incorrect or insufficient lubrication rather than wear. It's commonly symptomatic of the use of a GL-5 lubricant when a GL-3 should have been used.
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