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What are the chances this washes out the lube or forces water in the u-joints?
Terry
What are chances? Virtually none IMHO.
Terry
Check out his website at http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay53/
I wish all of my Jeep Buddies here at Edmunds a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Tom
7th place: Chevy Suburban Z71
6th place: Chevy Tahoe Z71
5th place: Kia Sorento
4th place: Hummer H3 Adventure Package
3rd place: Toyota FJ Cruiser
2nd place: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
1st place: Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
Complete story is in the Feb 2007 issue which should be in your mailboxes now of on newsstands Dec 26th.
paulp575
Also, I was planning the put on the Warn diff skids in the past few days. However, the diff skid bolts need a very small(smaller thant 3/16) hex bit which is very difficult to find at a reasonable price. This is very annoying so I have decided to swtich to a different kind of skid. Any suggestions?
Either the vehicle is jacked up so that the axle is not in the same plane as when sitting on all fours, or having pumped more than enough oil in, the level plug is refitted before the excess can run back out.
Ok, since you twisted my arm I'll highlight two very effective and very different full face covers. I've seen them both, but I haven't used either one personally. One is a very neat, strong and attractive replacement cover. The other is an ugly, crude, and multi-purpose cover modification (though it's sold as a complete cover replacement).
The first is from Crane, and can be cast or CNC machined. Standard cover on the left, Crane on the right.
Product review HERE.
Crane's site HERE.
The second is made by Baertrax, and as well as protecting the diff it also protects the tie rod. If you study the review you'll see why this a good thing!
Review HERE.
Baertrax site HERE.
If you are, or intend to be, seriously involved in rockcrawling then I'd suggest the Baertrax. For occasional use, and with a very attractive style and construction, then I'd consider the Crane.
The diffs have vent tubes on the breathers to raise them up, and they do have caps on the ends to prevent contamination ingress, which can comfortably deal with day to day expansion and contraction. However, when a hot axle goes into cold water the air inside is rapidly cooled and often the breather can't cope. What happens then is that water gets sucked in past the axle seals and pinion seal.
For recent buying experiences check here: Jeep Wrangler: Prices Paid & Buying Experience.
For potential problems and solutions check here: Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions.
For everything else, just keep going back or searching through the forum you're on now, Jeep Wrangler!
Thanks in advance
gh
Available Power Windows, Power Locks, and Remote Keyless Entry
Available Freedom Top™ 3-Piece Hard Top
Standard Electronic Stability Program†, Electronic Roll Mitigation, and ABS
202 hp, 3.8-liter V6 Engine
Remember, it's rare to find that a salesman has better information than the manufacturer.
OME=Old Man Emu??
OE=??
OEM=??
Thank you,
gh
Correct.
OE = Original Equipment (as in factory fitted).
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer (as in "Bestop is the OEM for soft tops").
gh
Matt
The most important part of the repair is to free up the hinges withot bending them or the frame. Lots of PB Blaster and patience is required!
It's tedious, but with the hardest part (w/frame to body seal) already done, you should solve it quite quickly.
Its been a while since we chatted. I still appreciate all your help while i was making my decision on my 05. Take Care, Jeff
The RE 3.5" lift is another lift I hear good things about. Those lift heights should work great for a Rubicon. A body/motor lift would be another option to keep your suspension lift smaller (easier to deal with) yet still allow room for flex and somewhat larger tires.
-Paul
I first had a used 2" Procomp suspension lift on Thelma Jane, but the springs had finally sagged to the point where I might have actually had an inch of lift, if even that much.
I recently replaced the Procomp lift with an Old Man Emu 2" lift. I went with the HD version, and that gave me nearly 3" of lift. It is very common for people to get more than 2" out of the 2" OME lifts, especially in the HD version.
I absolutely LOVE that OME lift. The ride quality is BETTER than stock.
Tom
Body is straight, no accidents, paint is ok, hard top needs painted, drivers door needs internals worked on a little. Only had Mobil 1....
I really hate to sell it, but Times are Hard. I've had this thing for a few years now. It was my toy. I'm choking back the tears as i type this.
I can be reached at 973-713-4958 or jmackinjersey@yahoo.com
by the way i'm in new jersey.
http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=865
Thanks,
Jeremiah
I just placed my order for a 2007 Wrangler X (2-door; steel blue) with pkg 24S, auto transmission, infiniti speakers, and tow package (4.10:1 axle ratio and Dana 44 rear) I have some questions.
1) Who makes the best rubber floor mats? (I really like the weathertech floor liners but don't think they are available for the JK. Also cannot find mats for the rear).
2) I plan to install arb air lockers front and rear (once the warranty expires, of course). How much time (labor) would be involved in this procedure (10 hrs+)?
3) I will only have the Dana 44 rear (not the front like the Rubi) so I was wondering what is the largest tire I could go with without overstressing my axles or rubbing? I really like the BFG A/T KO and was thinking P265s or something.
thanks a bunch
Congrats on your Jeep order!
Husky Floor Liners are hard to beat for floor mats. They have a nice high lip around the edge to keep the muddy water from running out onto the carpet.
Sounds like you will be doing some pretty serious off roading, since you plan to lock the front and rear axles. I'm not enough of a mechanic to advise you on the install time for those lockers. You will have an air compressor to install in addition to the lockers. I would think it would be a BIG job, and it would require some pretty high class mechanical skills. You would have to know how to set gears, and not just anyone can do that.
That was a real good move to get the Dana 44 rear axle. It will support larger tires and a locker, but it is NOT indestructable. Driving technique is still important.
Once again, congrats!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
98 Sahara w/73k miles
Warn 8000 series
AR 15" and BFG AT 325/60-15
and yes...life is good
So I've been reading and searching around the board for quite some time now and I've seen a few issues that I've had as well so many thanks to all!
Now for my complaints and grievances...
My TPS has been acting up since I tossed my rig into the everglades trails and took it up to the headlights in water. Yes, I'm VERY impressed...my jungle fighter just kept on chugging along....woot wooot...steady as he goes! It acts up every once in a while and gives me a check engine but I throttle through the stalling thing it does and just deal with it and eventually it goes away.
Next, I'm running wheels with negative offset and I just replaced my front wheel bearings. I'm sure the 325/60 tires, negative offset and my less than conservative driving habits have something to do with this. Btw, the wide BFG AT's and neg offset together with the stock suspension helps for quick and aggressive street driving like you would not imagine. I drive this thing HARD...and it takes the beating like nothing I've ever owned (this is my second TJ, btw...).
So if the neg offset wheels are destroying my car, please let me know...I have a set of factory 15" wheels (i think the model is called the outlaw? the one with the 5 or 6 holes and the rivets all over the place). Both my current tires and the ones on the other wheels are GONE so I need new ones regardless. However, I know my transmission and drivetrain are going to be due for a SERIOUS overhaul soon, but I would like to avoid that for as long as possible...so...any advice here?
Next...security...I know there is no such thing...but does anyone have any advice or ideas on this subject? How good is the tuffy center console insert and the tuffy glove box?
Overall...I love my jeep, even though I beat it up whenever the mood is right
My interior still looks great, carpets, seats, dash, panels, etc... these cars (erggh...trucks) are unstoppable...truly H2 recovery vehicles!
Diego
...always waving ;p
Wider tires and negative offset wheels will shorten the life of your wheel bearings, but not in the short term. However, once the bearings start to get a little wear the seals don't work as well, which will then allow water and contaminants by more easily, which in turn will accelerate the wear on the bearings. So, extra loading plus a severe working environment is worse than just the extra loading.
Both the Tuffy console and glove box inserts are very good. A complete and well secured Tuffy console is even better.
Keep waving!
I would have told you the same thing... the water/mud that your wheel bearings have been exposed to on what I assume is a fairly regular basis would have contributed to your bearing failure much more than the backspacing of your wheels would have.
I've had to replace one of mine, and I know it's because of all the " wheelin' " I do. I stay out of mud and water whenever possible, but it cannot be completely avoided where I go.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Also, any reason why the warranty on the powertrain is only 3 yrs/36K miles. I plan on keeping this thing for at least 6 to 7 years.
thanks
dizzle
I was also wondering if I made a good choice going with the automatic. I drove both but didn't care too much for how the manual shifted. My old man has a '94 D-90 with a manual and actually wishes he had an automatic for off-roading (rock crawling, etc.)
Will an automatic be good for off-roading? And what about 0-60 performance? Will it be a lot slower on the highway. I have not seen 0-60 times for the '07 two door but have seen the dismal numbers for the Unlimited 4 door.
thanks again
Damien