Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler

1…433434436438439…455

Comments

  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Mac or anyone with an opinion. I live in Chicago area. In the winter, I use a touchless car wash that just sprays and rinses. It also has an underbody wash that appears to be a high pressure spray under the vehicle. May or may not have a detergent in it.
    What are the chances this washes out the lube or forces water in the u-joints?

    Terry
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yup, I'm normally good for an opinion. :shades:

    What are chances? Virtually none IMHO.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Thanks Martin. I feel the same way. I just wanted another opinion.

    Terry
  • wpowellwpowell Member Posts: 125
    You may also want to consider switching to synthetic diff lube, especially if you do any towing. Be careful not to overfill, otherwise it will blow out the vent line (don't aks me how I know :P )
  • chiefusnchiefusn Member Posts: 20
    Merry Christmas to all!
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Ross Allen wishes everyone a Merry Christmas from Heaven.

    image

    Check out his website at http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay53/

    I wish all of my Jeep Buddies here at Edmunds a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

    Tom
  • paulp575paulp575 Member Posts: 12
    That's correct, the 2007 Jeep Rubicon took 1st and 2nd place in Four Wheeler magazine's "Four Wheeler of the Year"! Here's the results:

    7th place: Chevy Suburban Z71
    6th place: Chevy Tahoe Z71
    5th place: Kia Sorento
    4th place: Hummer H3 Adventure Package
    3rd place: Toyota FJ Cruiser
    2nd place: Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
    1st place: Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

    Complete story is in the Feb 2007 issue which should be in your mailboxes now of on newsstands Dec 26th.

    paulp575
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    How does the overfill happen since the oil can not be filled above the filler hole??

    Also, I was planning the put on the Warn diff skids in the past few days. However, the diff skid bolts need a very small(smaller thant 3/16) hex bit which is very difficult to find at a reasonable price. This is very annoying so I have decided to swtich to a different kind of skid. Any suggestions?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Merry Christmas to you, Tom. I betcha Ross Allen is helping my pooch JD chase some angelic rabbits.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Can't help with the second part (so many to choose from, each with their own particular features), but the first is easy.

    Either the vehicle is jacked up so that the axle is not in the same plane as when sitting on all fours, or having pumped more than enough oil in, the level plug is refitted before the excess can run back out.
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    I am leaning toward a full face kind of heavy duty diff cover which makes more sense particularly if the oil is to be changed every 12k miles.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It doesn't just have to be changed every 12K miles, every time you go through axle deep water or mud you should also consider changing it.

    Ok, since you twisted my arm I'll highlight two very effective and very different full face covers. I've seen them both, but I haven't used either one personally. One is a very neat, strong and attractive replacement cover. The other is an ugly, crude, and multi-purpose cover modification (though it's sold as a complete cover replacement).

    The first is from Crane, and can be cast or CNC machined. Standard cover on the left, Crane on the right.

    image

    Product review HERE.

    Crane's site HERE.

    The second is made by Baertrax, and as well as protecting the diff it also protects the tie rod. If you study the review you'll see why this a good thing!

    image

    Review HERE.

    Baertrax site HERE.

    If you are, or intend to be, seriously involved in rockcrawling then I'd suggest the Baertrax. For occasional use, and with a very attractive style and construction, then I'd consider the Crane.
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Is there some kind of 'one-way plug"(not sure what it is actully called) to plug the diff vent host so that water and dirt wont get into the diff?? Just like the little plug found in my dirtbike's gas cap where air can get in but gas can't get out.
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    Crane looks really well made.
  • semperjjsemperjj Member Posts: 2
    Am new to the site and this will be my first Jeep. My Family has always owned a Jeep, now its my turn to get my first. Am looking for suggestion on where I should be looking to gain the most info. to get me a good deal.. Thank you all in advance for your insight.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Is there some kind of 'one-way plug........

    The diffs have vent tubes on the breathers to raise them up, and they do have caps on the ends to prevent contamination ingress, which can comfortably deal with day to day expansion and contraction. However, when a hot axle goes into cold water the air inside is rapidly cooled and often the breather can't cope. What happens then is that water gets sucked in past the axle seals and pinion seal.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    For pricing information and reviews why not start at our parent site: EDMUNDS.

    For recent buying experiences check here: Jeep Wrangler: Prices Paid & Buying Experience.

    For potential problems and solutions check here: Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions.

    For everything else, just keep going back or searching through the forum you're on now, Jeep Wrangler!
  • gdh3gdh3 Member Posts: 28
    Hello from long time lurker. Does anybody KNOW if the 07 two door wranglers have the multi-piece freedom top. Jeep's website shows it in the 360 degree view in cartoon form. My local salesman says that it does not. It is a very appealing feature to me. Would love to hear from some 07 owners.
    Thanks in advance
    gh
  • semperjjsemperjj Member Posts: 2
    from everything I have seen and heard yes it does.. I have only seen one hard top option and that is the 3 (pc)...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Not an '07 owner (there aren't that many yet), but this from Jeep's website (JEEP.com) with reference to '07 two door's:

    Available Power Windows, Power Locks, and Remote Keyless Entry
    Available Freedom Top™ 3-Piece Hard Top
    Standard Electronic Stability Program†, Electronic Roll Mitigation, and ABS
    202 hp, 3.8-liter V6 Engine

    Remember, it's rare to find that a salesman has better information than the manufacturer.
  • gdh3gdh3 Member Posts: 28
    Help wanted with abbreviations.
    OME=Old Man Emu??
    OE=??
    OEM=??
    Thank you,
    gh
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    Definately three pieces on the on I saw at a dealer. Two half tops over the driver and front passenger. Like a t-top without the center bar. The latches holding the front pieces on have a form of manual twist latch.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    OME=Old Man Emu??

    Correct.

    OE = Original Equipment (as in factory fitted).

    OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer (as in "Bestop is the OEM for soft tops").
  • gdh3gdh3 Member Posts: 28
    Thank you mac24.
    gh
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Does anyone know of a good solid YJ frame for sale in the midwest for a reasonable price? Can be with or without running gear, axles, ect.
  • mvanderwalmvanderwal Member Posts: 3
    I have 1995 Wrangler and it leaks water through the dash every time it rains. I have replaced the window seal and the seal along the window frame and the hardtop. It has full steel doors. I can not find where the water is coming in. Can anyone help with this?
    Matt
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm not sure from your description which seals you replaced, but the most common cause is degradation of the rubber seal that goes between the bottom of the windshield frame and the body. Sometimes the windshield frame itself can also let water in through rust holes. The cure is to replace the seal (it's not expensive) and make any necessary repairs to the frame/body at the same time.

    The most important part of the repair is to free up the hinges withot bending them or the frame. Lots of PB Blaster and patience is required!
  • mvanderwalmvanderwal Member Posts: 3
    Yes I replaced the seal between the bottom of the window frame and the body. The window frame and the body are all in good condition and have not signs of rust.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Time for the garden hose test then! Having a helper works best. Work from bottom to top, rather than from the top down. Lift the hood and have them spray against the upper firewall first, then progress to the bottom of the windshield and on up to the roof. You may also want to do around the side window frames and up inside the front wheel wells/inner fenders. Spend a good two or three minutes in each area before progressing to the next. You should be inside the Jeep with a powerful flashlight. Try removing stuff, like the glove box, from the dash to be better able to see where the water might be getting in.

    It's tedious, but with the hardest part (w/frame to body seal) already done, you should solve it quite quickly.
  • mvanderwalmvanderwal Member Posts: 3
    I'll give it a shot.
  • jefferson1964jefferson1964 Member Posts: 330
    Hello everyone Ive not been on since July 05, hope everyone is doing good. I have been trying to get an 07 wrangler and trade my 05 rubi unlimited. No luck so far to much difference between trade and amount owed :-( Plus the dealers in my area want sticker or over sticker for rubi's on the 07's. Same issue i had when i purchased mine in Dec. 04 and it forced me to buy out of state....There is someone in my neighborhood that has the sahara 4 door w/ hardtop and rescue green and its sharp...i want the darker jeep green and a 4 door for the family...anyone have one? if so how do you like it? Take care everyone be back soon i hope...Jeff
  • jefferson1964jefferson1964 Member Posts: 330
    Hi Tom,

    Its been a while since we chatted. I still appreciate all your help while i was making my decision on my 05. Take Care, Jeff
  • jefferson1964jefferson1964 Member Posts: 330
    what kind of lift did you put on the jeep. Ive got an 05 rub unlimited and would like to get a lift since i cannot get a descent trade-in value....Jeff
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Will I have much of any trouble swapping my frame out if my jeep is a 6 cylinder and the frame i'm looking at a is a 4 cylinder?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It should just be the engine and transmission mounting points that differ. They don't usually rust out so you should be able to cut yours off and weld them into the 'new' frame. Remember, measure twice cut once! :shades:
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    My current YJ has a 3" body lift and 16 inch rims with P245/70/16's. If I swap the frame, will i be able to keep the wheels and tires without using the body lift? My thought was that i might get better fuel economy, but will it really make a big difference?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Your tires are a virtual equivalent to a 30" so you should be ok without a body lift, though the frame swap has no bearing on it. Any fuel saving, while theoretically feasible, is unlikely to be measurable. Sixteen inch rims are fairly unusual, are you sure they're not fifteens?
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    yes, the previous owner put on 16" aluminum american racing rims wrapped in the michelins previously mentioned along with a 3" body lift">image
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yup, nice wheels but definitely lose the lift (or at least drop it to a 1"). :)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    For a Rubicon, it depends on how much lift you want. A small OME 2.5" lift, like Mac, Tom, and I all have would be great.

    The RE 3.5" lift is another lift I hear good things about. Those lift heights should work great for a Rubicon. A body/motor lift would be another option to keep your suspension lift smaller (easier to deal with) yet still allow room for flex and somewhat larger tires.

    -Paul
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Welcome back!

    I first had a used 2" Procomp suspension lift on Thelma Jane, but the springs had finally sagged to the point where I might have actually had an inch of lift, if even that much.

    I recently replaced the Procomp lift with an Old Man Emu 2" lift. I went with the HD version, and that gave me nearly 3" of lift. It is very common for people to get more than 2" out of the 2" OME lifts, especially in the HD version.

    I absolutely LOVE that OME lift. The ride quality is BETTER than stock.

    Tom

    image
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Lost out on the eBay frame. Looks like that frame swap will be further off yet. :cry:
  • jmackinjerseyjmackinjersey Member Posts: 1
    Know any one looking for a Jeep Wrangler? '91 I6 5spd, fresh rebuilt motor, one up cam, roller rockers, ported and pollished 3angle valve job ported/polished intake and exhaust Borla header, high floe cat, Turbocity Throttle body and spacer, intake and filter, cap/rotor/wires & plugs, new radiator, Flexalite electric fan, Dual force Clutch/flywheel, 3" suspension lift, 31x10.50x15 BF Goodrich MT TA's, steel braded brake lines, 2 sets of KC daylighters, custom steel tube bumpers, bikini top 3 pieces and a whole lot more...

    Body is straight, no accidents, paint is ok, hard top needs painted, drivers door needs internals worked on a little. Only had Mobil 1....

    I really hate to sell it, but Times are Hard. I've had this thing for a few years now. It was my toy. I'm choking back the tears as i type this.

    I can be reached at 973-713-4958 or jmackinjersey@yahoo.com

    by the way i'm in new jersey.
    http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=865

    Thanks,
    Jeremiah
  • dizzle65dizzle65 Member Posts: 20
    Hi all,

    I just placed my order for a 2007 Wrangler X (2-door; steel blue) with pkg 24S, auto transmission, infiniti speakers, and tow package (4.10:1 axle ratio and Dana 44 rear) I have some questions.

    1) Who makes the best rubber floor mats? (I really like the weathertech floor liners but don't think they are available for the JK. Also cannot find mats for the rear).

    2) I plan to install arb air lockers front and rear (once the warranty expires, of course). How much time (labor) would be involved in this procedure (10 hrs+)?

    3) I will only have the Dana 44 rear (not the front like the Rubi) so I was wondering what is the largest tire I could go with without overstressing my axles or rubbing? I really like the BFG A/T KO and was thinking P265s or something.

    thanks a bunch
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Dizzle:

    Congrats on your Jeep order!

    Husky Floor Liners are hard to beat for floor mats. They have a nice high lip around the edge to keep the muddy water from running out onto the carpet.

    Sounds like you will be doing some pretty serious off roading, since you plan to lock the front and rear axles. I'm not enough of a mechanic to advise you on the install time for those lockers. You will have an air compressor to install in addition to the lockers. I would think it would be a BIG job, and it would require some pretty high class mechanical skills. You would have to know how to set gears, and not just anyone can do that.

    That was a real good move to get the Dana 44 rear axle. It will support larger tires and a locker, but it is NOT indestructable. Driving technique is still important.

    Once again, congrats!

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • diegotexeradiegotexera Member Posts: 11
    Hello all...Diego from Miami

    98 Sahara w/73k miles
    Warn 8000 series
    AR 15" and BFG AT 325/60-15
    and yes...life is good ;)

    So I've been reading and searching around the board for quite some time now and I've seen a few issues that I've had as well so many thanks to all!

    Now for my complaints and grievances...

    My TPS has been acting up since I tossed my rig into the everglades trails and took it up to the headlights in water. Yes, I'm VERY impressed...my jungle fighter just kept on chugging along....woot wooot...steady as he goes! It acts up every once in a while and gives me a check engine but I throttle through the stalling thing it does and just deal with it and eventually it goes away.

    Next, I'm running wheels with negative offset and I just replaced my front wheel bearings. I'm sure the 325/60 tires, negative offset and my less than conservative driving habits have something to do with this. Btw, the wide BFG AT's and neg offset together with the stock suspension helps for quick and aggressive street driving like you would not imagine. I drive this thing HARD...and it takes the beating like nothing I've ever owned (this is my second TJ, btw...).

    So if the neg offset wheels are destroying my car, please let me know...I have a set of factory 15" wheels (i think the model is called the outlaw? the one with the 5 or 6 holes and the rivets all over the place). Both my current tires and the ones on the other wheels are GONE so I need new ones regardless. However, I know my transmission and drivetrain are going to be due for a SERIOUS overhaul soon, but I would like to avoid that for as long as possible...so...any advice here?

    Next...security...I know there is no such thing...but does anyone have any advice or ideas on this subject? How good is the tuffy center console insert and the tuffy glove box?

    Overall...I love my jeep, even though I beat it up whenever the mood is right ;)

    My interior still looks great, carpets, seats, dash, panels, etc... these cars (erggh...trucks) are unstoppable...truly H2 recovery vehicles!

    Diego
    ...always waving ;p
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Personally I'd replace the TPS. It's not expensive, it won't get better on its own, and it will let you down eventually.

    Wider tires and negative offset wheels will shorten the life of your wheel bearings, but not in the short term. However, once the bearings start to get a little wear the seals don't work as well, which will then allow water and contaminants by more easily, which in turn will accelerate the wear on the bearings. So, extra loading plus a severe working environment is worse than just the extra loading.

    Both the Tuffy console and glove box inserts are very good. A complete and well secured Tuffy console is even better.

    Keep waving!
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    What Mac said.

    I would have told you the same thing... the water/mud that your wheel bearings have been exposed to on what I assume is a fairly regular basis would have contributed to your bearing failure much more than the backspacing of your wheels would have.

    I've had to replace one of mine, and I know it's because of all the " wheelin' " I do. I stay out of mud and water whenever possible, but it cannot be completely avoided where I go.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • dizzle65dizzle65 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks so much for your help. I was wondering what size I could go for tires with the Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 Front? There was no way of getting the Dana 44 in the front without ordering the Rubi. Once my warranty expires, I would seriously consider doing a front axle swap.

    Also, any reason why the warranty on the powertrain is only 3 yrs/36K miles. I plan on keeping this thing for at least 6 to 7 years.

    thanks
    dizzle
  • dizzle65dizzle65 Member Posts: 20
    Hi again,

    I was also wondering if I made a good choice going with the automatic. I drove both but didn't care too much for how the manual shifted. My old man has a '94 D-90 with a manual and actually wishes he had an automatic for off-roading (rock crawling, etc.)

    Will an automatic be good for off-roading? And what about 0-60 performance? Will it be a lot slower on the highway. I have not seen 0-60 times for the '07 two door but have seen the dismal numbers for the Unlimited 4 door.

    thanks again
    Damien
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles