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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    As mac mentioned, there are options:

    1. CO2 tank.

    Pro's:
    Easily transportable and can be used for other vehicles.
    Properly equipped with adjustable regulator, can be used to run air tools.
    Can be cheaper to build

    Con's:
    Have to refill
    Limited amount of CO2 to use
    Needs storage space to carry

    2. On board compressor - this would be like using an old AC compressor, like a York 210 compressor to inflate tires and such.

    Pros:
    Very efficient and fast
    Doesn't require additional storage, unless you use a tank to store air ready for use instead of directly from the compressor
    Unlimited air supply

    Cons:
    Can be very costly for proper installation
    More possibilities for leaks in system
    Requires more labor/effort to setup
    Requires (usually) modification to engine air box setup

    I went with CO2 as I don't wheel often enough to justify a full OBA setup. Nor do I run air tools. I got my setup built (did it myself) for:
    $75.00 for a 10 LB CO2 tank (NEW)
    $45.00 for a 150 psi fixed regulator (NEW)
    $10.00 for a 25' coil hose and air chuck

    Compared to over $200-$300 for a 'name brand' CO2 setup, I like my setup. :)

    So for about $130, I have a good working setup. I have a friend who is going to make me a storage rack that will mount up to my Jeeperman bumper and sit outside the Jeep.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I still like my last option! ;)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, well you're biased. :)

    -Paul
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    I think we would like that option best. My problem is I can't afford the container it comes in.

    Terry :D
  • jeepgreenjeepgreen Member Posts: 5
    How much CO2 does your setup give you? From what I've read, the beauty of the "name brand" is that it actually uses liquid CO2, so the volume of usable gas is tremendous.
    Ever try a portable electric like the ARB or the ViAir?

    Thanks for the info.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The ARB works well for operating diffs but doesn't really have the volume for tires. Viair has several models, the smallest being similar to the ARB with the bigger ones becoming progressively more useful (and expensive). None will provide the output that an engine driven a/c compressor, On Board Air for instance, can give. It's all about volume.

    I'll let erickpl give more specifics on his system, but I'm not aware of any practical setup that stores gaseous rather liquid CO².
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I have a 10# CO2 setup (yes it is liquid). When it comes out the pressurized liquid comes out as a gas, same as any CO2 system.

    A 10# tank holds 640 gallons of 'air' or CO2. I can fill up my 33x12.5x15 tires from 10 to 35 PSI (just above my street pressure) in just over a minute per tire. I usually only air down to about 16 psi or so, so the times will be shorter.

    I can get roughly 4 wheeling trips in before having to refill the tank (about 15 fillups when going from 10 to 35), but since I go from 16 to 33, I should be able to get 16 fills with no problem.

    I have an ARB compressor to run my locker in back, but the volume is so minimal it takes about 20 minutes to fill a tire, and THAT is way longer than the recommended non-stop run time for that compressor.

    While I wanted a York compressor, I did not want to have to relocate my air box or go with a cold air intake, esp for an offroad vehicle. Also, I didn't want to give up A/C or have to deal with all the hoses/wiring/gauges/etc that a hard-wired setup would entail. The portable CO2 lets me use it for other purposes, including filling sports equipment, air mattresses, etc...

    It is all personal preference, but to ME, the cost vs frequency and the labor involved to set up pushed me to the CO2 tank.

    If you offroad a LOT and/or have air-powered tools, then a York or Viair setup may be the best choice for you. For me, as cool as it is, it just wasn't.

    -Paul
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Do you need to re-adjust your headlights after doing a lift? When we were coming into work this morning, an oncoming lifted pickup's headlights were shining right in my eyes - more so than most pickups (they are common in my area). I wondered how many people think about checking/adjusting their headlights when they do lifts.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I wondered how many people think about checking/adjusting their headlights when they do lifts.

    Not too many from what I see around here. It's even more important if a lift is used to level the vehicle from a previous 'nose down' attitude.

    In Europe, where they take blinding an oncoming driver a little more seriously than we seem to here, Wranglers are equipped with an electrically operated headlight levelling system, so that if you're carrying a load (rear seat passengers, trailer etc.) the driver can correct the headlight adjustment with a four position switch.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I've seen many European cars do that as well (like Audi, BMW, MB, etc) in their HID lighting applications.

    I adjusted my lights:
    - after installing the IPF lighting
    - after doing my OME lift
    - after doing my BL (had to remove the lights anyway for that to make it easier)

    I have NOT done it since installing the .75" spacers and that may explain why I get flashed to turn off the brights occasionally.

    I have a list of things to do to Kermit. Time to add one more.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'm trying to locate a fog light mounting bracket for the OEM TJ fog lights. It is the bracket type that also helps align the fogs up or down.

    I've contacted the dealer - I'd have to buy a whole setup. Uh, no. Does anybody have a broken foglamp that they'd otherwise be pitching or have some sources I could try?

    -Paul
  • chiefusnchiefusn Member Posts: 20
    co2 is never in a liquid state.It sublimates, going directly from a solid to a gas, never passing through a liquid state.Think of it as ice cubes in your freezer.Ever notice them getting smaller and smaller without thawing out (melting)That too, is a form of sublimation. The only reason I know this is because I operated liquid o2n2 plants in the Navy for 5 years
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    Previous answer is partially correct. CO2 does not exist as a liquid at atmosphereic pressure (that is why dry ice doesn't melt - it goes directly from asolid to a gas). But at high enough pressure (75+ psig) CO2 can be compressed into the liquid state. So in pressurized tanks, the CO2 actually is a liquid, but when it discharges into the air, it instantly changes into a mix of CO2 gas and CO2 "snow".
  • iwntajeepiwntajeep Member Posts: 10
    hey everyone! I have a few questions, but they are all related to the lift. I have read the previous posts on lifts and they have answered many of my questions, but I have a few more and maybe even a few questions to be clarified.

    I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X model. It has been a GREAT vehicle for both travel and daily driving, but it needs some "beefyness" if you get what I mean. Its still completely factory, which I believe is understandable because I've only had the Jeep since last May.

    I want to get a 4" Series II Rough Country lift. My first question is if I can get away with keeping my stock wheels and putting 33" x 10.5" tires? I know they will fit and everything, but since they are not very wide, I was wondering if I could get some advice on whether they are safe or not (roll over risk...etc.).

    Ok, second question, I will not be offroading anytime soon because of how new my car is. I want to put some age on my vehicle before I run it through the woods. So in other words I will be a "poser" for a lil while. Does this mean I will need to get a replacement stablizer, slip yoke eliminator, and the CV custom driveshaft? Or since I will be staying onroad will I be alright without? I've also heard a lot about regearing. What is the benefits of that other than power, and if I don't regear will that hurt my vehicle?

    Any help will be very much appreciated! The site for the lift and those other parts are here link title
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    A lift and larger diameter tires will raise the center of gravity but, unless you try to corner it like a sports car, the most noticable effect will be in extreme cambered situations offroad.

    With regard to s/stabilizers, SYEs, and custom driveshafts, the situation is reversed. A lack of the above will be most noticable on-road, in terms of serious vibration. Off-road, if you keep the speed down, you won't notice the lack of them at all, (though you may need to put a spacer on the rear end of the rear prop shaft).

    Not re-gearing might negatively affect fuel consumption and acceleration, but it won't damage your vehicle.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Building on what Mac said:

    1. 33x10.5's should fit on stock wheels. I have 33x12.5's on my Canyons which are 8" wide.
    2. Your rollover risk will go up a bit since you are raising your COG. But if you drive prudently, the increased risk will be minimal.
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts. You may want to consider Rubicon Express or OME as better options.
    4. With a 4" lift, you will likely need either a transfer case drop (usually comes with lift kits) or do the SYE. The drop is a cheaper solution since you don't need the SYE, new rear driveshaft and adjustable control arms in back.
    5. Replacement stabilizers will be unnecessary if you balance and align tires properly after lift. They tend to MASK issues instead of prevent them.
    6. Going from stock to 33's, you will see a performance hit and a noticeable change in what your speedo reads vs true speed. Regearing is the best way to regain stock 'power' to the now-oversized tires. A new speedo gear would probably be good too (fairly cheap from the dealer) and is based on your new differential gear settings and tire size. It won't hurt anything other than your pocketbook for more gas if you don't regear.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    3. I've heard VERY mixed results about the Rough Country lifts.......

    Me too, but I thought I'd let someone else express it first! ;)

    Apparently the name (Rough Country) is an accurate descriptor of the product's performance. (What's the correct term for that?)
  • iwntajeepiwntajeep Member Posts: 10
    Thanks to all for their input. I appreciate it a lot. I have more things to think about and I'm sure you'll see me again on here as I am an avid reader for this forum!
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    could someone tell me the stock differential ratios for a 6cyl YJ ('92)?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Depends on transmission type. Also depends on which trim level and options it had from the factory.

    -Paul
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Back in 2002 I got a build sheet from Daimler Chrysler for my 95 Wrangler. I no longer have the instructions, but maybe somebody out there does.
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    Just to piggy back on the lift question... Can anyone comment on the Rusty lift kits... I am looking at his 3-1/4" kit. Rusty's Link
    Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    For the price, I've heard you get a decent lift. I have several friends looking at this lift as a matter of fact. I'd still opt for the OME or RE if price wasn't a concern. But that is just me. If you are on a budget and needing/wanting a suspension upgrade, then Rusty's is probably the top on my list.

    Price independent:
    1. OME
    2. RE
    3. Rusty's

    Price dependent:
    1. Rusty's
    2. RE
    3. OME

    Hope that helps.

    -Paul
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    Thanks Paul... I haven't seen the RE or OME for the JK's yet.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    They'll have em. ;)

    I'm not sure how they'd be different, except maybe with different springs/spring rate. Shouldn't be too much different though.

    -Paul
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    I just found the RE... $1,600 for the 3"... As far as differences... all I know is that the JK has longer Arms then the others. Not sure on the other specs.
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the input. I have another one. Would there be any reason that the 4x4 (possibly both ranges) would not be working when the indicator shows that 4x4 is engaged? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Failure of one range only to engage would indicate a transfer case or linkage problem. Failure of both ranges to engage is likely to be a vacuum problem, or at least a problem related to the vacuum operated actuator on the front axle.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Go to the 'Contact us' link on Jeep.com and send them your VIN together with your request.

    Alternatively, your local dealer should be able to print it out given the VIN.

    However, as there's no guarantee that a fifteen year old Jeep will still have the same equipment it originally came with, a check of the axle itself might be best.

    If the information tag is no longer attached to one of the diff cover bolts you will need to get physical with it. Just count how many revolutions a wheel needs to turn to complete one revolution of the propshaft. Make a chalk mark on the propshaft where you can see it from the side, and a chalk mark on a tire at the 12 o'clock position. Carefully roll the Jeep forward while keeping note of the marks. Easy!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Price independent:
    1. OME
    2. RE
    3. Rusty's

    Price dependent:
    1. Rusty's
    2. RE
    3. OME


    That would be my order of priority as well.
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Thanks mac!

    I'm pretty sure it is both ranges. Do you know offhand how much that actuator is to replace? and how difficult? or do you think that investing in one of those 4x4 posi-locks is a better investment?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    When in good working condition the factory part does an effective job but doesn't seem terribly robust.

    The Posi-Lock is a popular mechanically operated alternative. Appears well made, gives a positive engagment, but has the disadvantage of being rather pricy ($200+).

    A second alternative that may bear investigation is to DIY for around $20. See what you think.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While I think of it, here's a link to an install of the Posi-Lock: Install Link.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Just count how many revolutions a wheel needs to turn to complete one revolution of the propshaft.

    Martin, I think you got this backward. Don't you count how many revolutions of the prop shaft to make one revolution of the wheel?

    Terry
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I didn't realize you had a JK. My bad.

    TJ lift kit prices usually consist of (for a good one less than 4"):
    1. Longer Springs
    2. Longer shocks (still think OME is one of the best)
    3. Bump stop extensions
    4. Adj track bars or track bar relocation brackets

    Those are the MAJOR components. Higher end kits (like a $1,600 RE kit, would include adjustable control arms as well.

    DPG offroad sells several levels of OME kit (they are who I bought through) depending on your budget. Dirk knows OME VERY well and can help with making a selection.

    If you have a JK, I honestly don't know what is out there and was relaying what I knew about TJ's. Not sure if TJ shocks will work on a JK. Only limitations would be flex and how the shocks attach at each ends (bar pins or what).

    Honestly, I'd wait a bit to see more JK lift kits come out for it. When you only have 1 or 2, they pretty much dictate the pricing. As more come out, you should see prices become competitive again.

    -Paul
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    Is there a difference between a 15 inch wheel and a 16 inch wheel with a 35" tire. I would suspect that the larger the wheel (to a point)the more support the tire has and the less chance of loosing your beed when your tire has reduced air pressure? Does it impact performance that much?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, you're right, consider me embarrassed! :blush:

    (I think my fingers were trying to make my brain look bad.)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    A 35" tire is a 35" tire, regardless of wheel size. :)

    It is just the size of the hole for the wheel to fit that matters. :)

    With a 15" wheel, you'll have more sidewall than you would with a 16" wheel.

    Performance wise, when you're talkin about a 35" tire, performance will be about the same. The issue is more with the width of the tire vs width of the wheel. I have an 8" wheel but running 12.5" wide tires and have had no problem airing down to about 14 psi for the trails. Never popped a bead.

    -Paul
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    Thanks Paul,

    I understand that a 35" is the same regardless of the wheel size. I was trying to understand if there is any performance difference with a larger wheel size given the same tire size... And you answered that question.

    Just from my engineering back ground, it would seem that the more flex you have in the side walls, the larger your tire contact when crawling. Just food for thought :D
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Wasn't trying to embarrass you. You should see what my fingers do to my posts at times.

    Terry

    PS - I had to type this one twice. It may still have errors.

    T.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....it would seem that the more flex you have in the side walls, the larger your tire contact when crawling.

    That's correct, though the difference between a 15" and 16" rim is negligable in its effect. Think of the difference between a 15" and 22" rim with a 35" tire and the picture becomes clearer.
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    Wow! that story sounded really familiar! I'll investigate my options and figure out what to do. By the way, how would i check to make sure that there is vacuum?
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    Mac,

    Just wanted to make sure we are on the same page... the 22" wheel would be a poor performer as the side walls have less flex.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Exactly. :)

    A more flexible sidewall doesn't make the tread any wider, but it can help it to wrap around a rock or stump for added traction.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .......how would i check to make sure that there is vacuum?

    You could either use a vacuum gauge like this one:

    image

    Available HERE or at most auto stores for about $10.

    Alternatively, you could remove the actuator housing (it's only held on by four bolts), then while the engine is running have a friend operate the t/c lever as you look at the actuator fork to see if it's moving correctly.

    image
  • 4rider4rider Member Posts: 96
    I think another disadventage of larger wheel,22", is that it more likely gets side damage since there is much less rubber between the rim and the rock.
  • 2climbbig2climbbig Member Posts: 20
    I have seen quite a bit of JK bashing in the past and just wanted to provide a link where a JK with no lockers climbs up a wall with out the use of a winch... JK at work.

    Great footage.
  • yjohnyjohn Member Posts: 32
    I got a frame from a 91 YJ to transplant into mine!

    Most of you probably don't know the story of my jeep. I got the '92 YJ in Septmeber of 05. A friend of my dad's was selling it because he was getting a new car. The guy only wanted $1000 for it. After my mechanic's inspection, he said that the frame was gone almost beyond repair. The back by the shackles were rusted out along with the section by the steering box. He also went down a list of everything else that it would need, and we figured I'd have $2500-$3000 into it when all was said and done. So, after talking him down to $800, and deciding that my other vehicle to be my first car (1976 AMC Pacer X) would wait and the Jeep would come home because I always wanted one, but the Pacer just kinda grew on me. 16 months later, i have a replacement frame and other things are going wrong left and right. But i put faith in the thought that i will be replacing all the wrong and will know what was done to the jeep instead of buying one for more money that could have the same problems. Plus, i figured that the American Racing rims and the Michelin tires on it were worth almost the purchase price.
  • Hi Gang - I have an '05 Unlimited w/ 4.0 6-cylinder automatic and my commute has gone from 8 miles per day on backroads to 50 miles per day on mostly highway. After 7 months, my right foot says it's time to order and install the Mopar cruise control kit. Anyone have any experience doing this themselves? I haven't ordered the kit, yet...I'm assuming it'll have installation instructions but I'd appreciate any feedback before I spend the money. Thanks.
  • unlimitjunlimitj Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2005 Unlimited with a 2.5" OME lift and 32"x10.5" tires. I only have the soft top, so it actually rides more like 2.5" in the front and about 3" in the back. As the tires are wearing down, I find myself eyeing bigger sizes and trying to figure out the best way to go 33" or maybe someday 35". JKS makes a nice 1.25" body lift and I'm planning on going flat fender in the front for a little extra tire clearance. So...with that said...
    How can I even out my lift so that both front and rear are each around 4" or so? Coil spacer in the front? 3" springs?
    What happens when you go from a 2.5" spring to a 3" or 4" spring? Would I have to have an adjustable trackbar to make it work?
    Lots of questions...but thanks for any help or info.
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