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Mazda Protege5
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Comments
Bruno
later,
d.
Ted (who's tired of venting on this board and angry that someone insinuated that he's a liar)
2) If it is a matter of the particular gas you get in your location, any other car you buy will yeild results below EPA stated figures as well.
Sorry the P5 isn't working out the way you had hoped.
Bruno
Several owners have brought their P5 in to have the fuel monitor checked. As for me, I think it's because the P5 begs to be driven hard, and leave it at that.
Keep in mind, I drive about 95% city...Also, when I got 31.3 MPG, that was the only time I ever drove continuosly on the interstate.
d.
Thanks,
d.
I have a 15 cu ft Sears on mine for a week this summer. The mileage didn't get hot too bad considering there were 4 of us and gear in the box and in the rear. Ended up getting around 27mpg on the highway doing about 70.
Didn't like the position of the box on the roof rack. Sits too far forward almost hanging over the window. I have a soft carrier which I am going to try this xmas and see if that is better.
HTH
Bruce
When we've carried two kayaks on a roof rack, the mileage has dropped 3-4 mpg. In fact, the kayak rack alone with its saddles reduces mileage 2-3 mpg. (We leave the rack on the car for the paddling season.)
The Cd (coefficient of drag)is increased, thus requiring more energy to punch the machine through the air.
Remember that the air resistance (the drag) increases with the square of the speed. In other words, at 60 mph the drag is _four times_ greater than at 30 mph even though the speed only doubled.
(This is probably a good thing, because otherwise we'd all be able to race along at 300 mph!)
Consider, too, that overall mass matters. It takes more energy to move a greater mass than it does to move a lesser mass. Chances are you're going to load up your car with greater mass using your roof box, else why buy it.
Your mileage will decline from the extra weight alone.
It would be interesting to see what mpg figures you record on the highway with just you and the empty roof box on board, as opposed to just you without the roof box. Things become more confusing when you add weight; I might not add as much as you, etc.
The suggestion that one might see a 20% reduction in fuel economy seems quite reasonable when anticipating a fully loaded vehicle complete with a full passenger load, everyone's luggage, heavy coolers, and vacation gear packed on board. And then you start filling up the roof box!
You'd drop from 30 mpg, for example, to 24 mpg (at 20% loss). Actually, I'd think you'd be _lucky_ to get 24 mpg in the example I described!
In fact, as I think of it, you might want to check the max vehicle load rating on your doorjamb sticker to make certain you're not exceeding the safe capacity for the vehicle. A lot of cars these days don't have much reserve capacity beyond a full passenger load. Just a thought.
Also, I'd pump my tires up to the maximum permissible (cold) pressure shown on the side of the tirewall when traveling fully loaded up. And don't forget to do a check on braking distances --- it could prove to be a real eye-opener, one of those white-knuckle moments, to discover just how much longer it will take to slow down with a max loaded vehicle. Best to get an idea of the problem _before_ an emergency arises, right?
(I rarely carry extra passengers, but one day, many years ago, I had two extras in the back seat. I was zipping down one of my favorite twisty bits and braked at my standard braking point for a pleasantly challenging curve. Whoah! Had a bit of a fright, there. Brain fade --- I'd forgotten to allow for the extra passenger weight. Haven't made that mistake since. I acted as though nothing was amiss, of course. But _I_ knew. It's unwise to get into a scrap with the Laws of Physics. Just a friendly reminder. ;-)
A while back I saw that REI had one of those attractive and sleek-looking Thule aero boxes on a good sale. You might want to check them out. Thule has fittings for the P5 rack, as I recall.
True, but this is one time energy to bring the car up to speed. When the car is cruising in the flat terrain, the Cx becomes a dominant factor, and extra weight doesn't cost any energy.
cheers,
d.
Bruno
Please post your comments.
FYI, on 8-8-02, I installed a K&N Drop-in Filter. Didnt seem to help the gas mileage...
Yes, I also read that K&N filter doesn't help much.
Cheers,
Bruno
Do they prevent the hatch from opening all the way due to overhang, or can they be mounted far enough forward to avoid this? Are some brands better than others in this regard?
Thanks.
You're welcome. :-)
"I guess I will just have to drop the cruising speed a little to adjust for the increase in drag."
Sure, you could do that. Sometimes I fret about my mileage, but then I work out the math, and I usually decide it's not really the problem I thought it was.
If you'll bear with me here, I'll show you how I'd look at this issue.
Assume fuel cost is $1.60/gal. in U.S. dollars. Further, let's assume that without dropping your cruising speed you get a mere 24 mpg with your roof box installed and the car loaded up. Let's figure the fuel cost of driving 1000 miles.
So, 1000/24=41.67 gallons of fuel used, @ $1.60/gal. costs $66.67.
Now, let's assume you could improve your fuel economy by reducing your cruising speed significantly and get 27 mpg, as opposed to 24 mpg.
So, 1000/27=37.01 gallons of fuel used, @ $1.60/gal. costs $59.22.
By reducing your cruising speed significantly you'll save $7.45 for every _one thousand_ miles traveled in my scenario.
You can play around with alternate figures, but I think the reality is that the additional fuel expense on your vacation will prove to be negligible.
I think I'd put on my roof box - and keep my boot right in the throttle, never mind the $7.45, if only to avoid being "trampled" on the highways by the faster cars! ;-)
When I work the figures, the dues for mounting a roof box and keeping up the pace in traffic seem quite reasonable given the additional convenience and flexibility offered by the box.
I'd get a nice roof box and enjoy it. That sleek, silver Thule box would look great on my silver P5.
Ideally, you'll probably want to buy a box that will permit opening the rear hatch fully without interference.
When you say it like that I will be still cruising at my regular speeds. I usually do forecasting before trips to see how much time/gas it will take.
"I'd get a nice roof box and enjoy it. That sleek, silver Thule box would look great on my silver P5."
I also drive a silver P5 and have seen those boxes. Thule should do their website like Tirerack where you can try on the box to see what it look like before you buy it. LOL
This weekend the snow tires are going on. I'm sure right after I change my tires over it will warm up again. That's ok, that means another camping trip.
Cheers,
d.
Actually, you could repay me by telling me about your snow tire experience.
We put Blizzaks MZ02s on our '99 Civic Si. They were superb in the snow and ice. (Sold now, including the tires. Replaced with the new '02 Si.)
In the dry, ummm... it was 'oribble it was. I think we had three days of actual snow and ice on the roads last year in Wisconsin. The plows and the salt quickly remove it all. Still, if I could find a tire substantially better than the four-season regular tires on the snow, that doesn't compromise dry/wet road handling and responsiveness significantly, I'd be interested. My lady is not happy driving in the snow. (She drives our '02 Civic Si most of the time. Another fun car.)
My guess is: 'taint no such animal. But, I'm still looking.
I'd appreciate your feedback on your snow tires.
Have you driven your P5 with the OEM Dunlops in the snow? If so, how'd you like them? I just got the P5 this past spring, and it has yet to see snow. Light snow is predicted here for tomorrow.
I enjoy snow driving; it's fun. But alone --- not around other drivers. (One of my "Basic Rules to Live By, Behind the Wheel: (1)Don't get involved in the other guy's mistake." It's a good rule, I think, but snow makes that tougher to live up to.)
Bruno
I've been driving stick for fourteen years, and while I've often read of heel-toeing (and imagined it), I've never understood it fully. Could you explain?
As an unrelated follow-up question: what are everyone's thoughts about breaking in a new car? I've heard everything from not exceeding 55 mph or 3000 RPMs for the first 1000 miles to the notion that engines no longer need to be broken in at all. Thoughts?
P.J.Heff
imagine your are approaching a 90-degree corner while in fourth gear at 50 mph.
In normal technique, you have two ways to down shift:
a) you brake to drop the speed to about 10 mph. The tach will drop, and you push the clutch as you goes around the corner. When you want to accelerate again you move the shifter from fourth to second gear, let out the clutch and the engine away. There is two bad things about this:
- you go around the corner with the clutch pushed in and using only the brake to control the car speed. As the brake applies equal pressure on both wheels, you get better chance to lock the exterior wheel.
- when you realize you can accelerate again, you need to downshift, which will cost you time.
b) You start to slow down a little using the brake then shift from fourth to third gear during the straight line. When you release the clutch, you have to release slowly, otherwise the car will buck and causing wear-and-tear on the clutch, transmission and engine mounts. In order to downshift smoothly, it requires you to plan your braking way before the corner with moderate deceleration. Again it will cost you time.
Heel-and-toe down shifting solves the problem. It allow you to downshift and braking quicker without jerking the engine. You can maintain the engine 90% of the time at the higher RPM, ready to accelerate. And most importantly, you go around the corner with the left foot off the clutch. Here is how it works:
1. Begin braking for the corner with your right foot canted a little to the right, closer to the throttle pedal.
2. Push in the clutch with your left foot.
3. Move the shifter from fourth gear to neutral
4. This is the hard part. With your right foot still applying pressure to the brakes, roll the outside edge of your foot outward and downward to touch the throttle pedal. Use the outside of your right foot to blip the throttle. Blipping the throttle means temporarily raising the engine rpms to match the wheel speed. The exact amount of revs needed is dependent on a variety of factors, but it is usually between 1,000 rpm to 2,000 rpm more than the current engine rpm for a one-gear downshift. If you do it right, you can release the clutch faster without jerking the car (to little throttling) or make it jumping forward (to much throttling)
5. Move the shifter from neutral to third gear.
6. Release the clutch with your left foot
When I start learning this technique, I begin to practice the double-clutching first, i.e., moving the right foot temporary to the brake pedal to a throttle pedal to raise the RPM. After I get better feeling about the amount of RPM to raise, I then focus on braking and throttling in the same time with the same foot.
Cheers,
Bruno
I didn't get any of the undercoating or paint sealant. IMHO, they are both too much for what they are. A paint sealant? Sounds like wax to me. Undercoating? $5 can from Canadian Tire. And if you look under the Pro, you'll see that there is undercoating that has already been applied.
Just my $.02.
The sealant won't work any better than a good application of wax. I'd give it 3-5 months tops.
The 3M clear urethane film works great though. I have it on the headlamps of my 99LX and no stone chips or cracks in them. Wish they'd had the full front-end kit when I bought my Pro, but it wasn't a popular-enough car for them to provide a custom-cut kit. Stongard has headlamp and front-end kits (partial and full) now.
The only reason I'm posting this is to find out if anyone is satisfied with any of the above configurations using the Infinity Reference series. Unfortunately, unless I can locate a 4ohm shielded sub, I can't install one because the magnetic field will destroy the computer equipment I carry for work.
I realize sound is a personal preference and I'm just looking for improved clarity and dynamic range.
"Oh, if the car really needs these extras, it must not have been made very well, maybe I should look at the Matrix again..."
Starting with late nov production the P5 will not have the roof rack as a standard feature and is now an option...but mazda has added a 100 watt subwoofer under the cargo floor and a under cargo floor storage tray. no charge.
We should start to see these vehicles in early Jan. 2003.
Rich
I agree that driving in the snow is fun and even more fun with snow tires and I love being able to start/stop/corner better than the SUV's. Four wheels spinning without traction gets you nowhere.
cheers,
d.
Bruno
I too will be interested to see how they have implemented it, as there is currently no room for anything under the cargo floor. Perhaps they dropped the metal floor down a few inches, though I don't know if there is space underneath to do that.
I've also heard of a subwoofer (can't remember which vehicle) that actually sits in the well in the middle of the spare tire...
It's interesting how they seem to update the P5 mid-cycle (i.e. not on a U.S. model year boundary). I would guess that this is because the major market for this vehicle is outside the U.S. where updating the model year number six months before the actual end of the year isn't considered important...