Mazda Protege5

ashutoshsm · August 2003

I had Falkens (ZIEX ZE-512) on upgraded ('tuner') wheels on my 95 Pro for nearly 10K miles, and was thoroughly impressed by their nearly perfect blend of the four important features : dry traction, wet traction, (some) snow traction (unexpected bonus!) and longevity (barely any visible wear in 10K, and warrantied upto 30K - longer if you get 60 or hgher profile versions!)

I'd recommend those tires without hesitation.

vilainefemme · August 2003

Came out from a concert last night and found my driver's side window had been smashed and my stereo stolen. The stock stereo...so lame. Luckily they did a pretty clean job of taking the stereo out, just a couple small gouges on each side. And I'm super lucky because my cell phone and billfold were in the glovebox and they didn't even touch that, nor anything else in the car.

If anybody has had anything like this happen to them, is there any advice or suggestions you can give? I've already called my insurance company and they've got somebody coming to replace the glass and an adjuster to check out the damage. I figured I'd go get my car detailed after this to make sure the glass is gone but just was wondering if there was anything else I should do.

Thanks.
Jessica

bluong1 · August 2003

I can't even believe someone wants to steal the stock unit. They probably thing it's an expensive one. Does the windows are tinted? If yes the insurance should take care for the cost.

meinrad · August 2003

That is amazing. Who would steal a stock stereo, when you have to be able to ge them for almost free from people who have replaced them.

I can't believe there is a huge black market for stock Mazda radios.

mazdafun · August 2003

But it sounds like they did a clean job of it.

Sorry to hear about your damage.

It's probably someone else with a P5 too cheap to get one off eBay.

icvci · August 2003

No matter what the insurance company tells you, go where you want to have it done. I had a stereo stolen before and was duped into using the installer my insurance (AAA) recommended, they sucked.

Stock head units are so expensive. I'd ask the insurance company to send you a check for replacement. Then, have a different (and better) unit installed.

Consider yourself lucky, when I had mine stolen it snowed 6 inches, in my car.

vilainefemme · August 2003

Thanks for everybody's commiseration. No, the windows weren't tinted, so it'll be a quick and tidy replacement whenever the guy gets here today.

Unfortunately I found out that my comprehensive deductible is too high ($500) to make it worth claiming the stereo, so I'm going with just the glass coverage ($100 deduct.).

So unless somebody can point me towards a person who wants to cheaply sell me their stock stereo, I'll probably be checking out what they've got at Best Buy. Unfortunately the thief left a huge gaping hole because they took everything from that area and I'll need to figure out something to cover up the lower section where a new stereo wouldn't cover. Are there blank plastic pieces for that?

Jessica

riopelle · August 2003

My moonroof has been taken apart for the rattle issue three times - apparently the inside door kept coming off its slide rail. It was adjusted, lubed, who knows what else, and still has a slight resonance sometimes when open but is basically fine. I usually have it shut anyway. Next time the shop said they'll replace the entire fixture - they've been really good about it. Hope this helps.

pciskowski · August 2003

I'll sell you mine! Then I could justify the new one that I want. Just email me at the address in my profile if you are interested.

Maybe you will be lucky like my friend in high school. He had a car stereo that was so bad that after 3 days the thief brought it back and left it on his porch.

mazdafun · August 2003

...kind of how they left my '89 323LX's stereo alone when they broke into practically every other car parked outside on my street one night.

Then again, at least I didn't have my car busted. I was still a little insulted.

icvci · August 2003

Unfortunately I found out that my comprehensive deductible is too high ($500) to make it worth claiming the stereo, so I'm going with just the glass coverage ($100 deduct.).

I was thinking about your situation on the way in to work today. I don't get it. Your glass alone will run you close to $500, especially if you go with factory stuff. Then factor in your stereo and installation and I don't see how you're not well over $500. Plus the detailing you talked about.

Seems to me insurance is the way to go.

revka · August 2003

If you have any insights to share on the Protege5 vs. Matrix XRS vs. 2.5TS Impreza vs. PT Cruiser, please join us in this new discussion. Perhaps you can help thenebean9 make a decision. Thanks for your participation.

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vilainefemme · August 2003

Oh no, the glass was only $161, installed by Safelite. The stereo is going to cost under $200 if I go with something from Best Buy when they've got one of their free installation deals. The detailing though, that's my own choice and I don't think that would be covered.

Jessica

icvci · August 2003

Safelite is the cheapest, it's not factory glass. If you want to replace your factory stereo with a factory stereo, it will run you at least $432.00 plus shipping.

Are you sure your deductible for comprehensive loss is $500? It's not the same thing as your broad collision deductible. If it is $500, I'd look in to lowering it. If there isn't anything in your car over worth over $500 why carry insurance with a deductible of $500? I suppose airbags are worth more. From what I remember, going from a $500 to a $100 deductible on comprehensive loss isn't that much more money. And it would have paid for itself right about now.

Just a thought. Good luck.

icvci · August 2003

FYI most of the time, it's not free. To get things to look how they should, you have to buy filler trim and harnesses.

If you want it to look like it did, go to a good shop with professional installers.

bluong1 · August 2003

The 2003 half year sale is up +10% world wide. Most amazing gain is +34% sale in Europe. Shame for North America, it's the only market that doesn't contribute anything to the good overall result.

icvci · August 2003

Mazda has cut way back on rental deliveries in N.A.. So the numbers aren't quite as bad as they look.

boggse · August 2003

It is really too bad. I would much rather rent a Protege5 or even an MPV when I travel than some Focus or Windstar.

icvci · August 2003

Kill your resale value. It's a good move for Mazda to make.

mazdafun · August 2003

I remember when I get a good rental vehicle. Can make for good word-of-mouth press.

But they do lower resale value, so I can see that. And why do it if you're selling them all anyway? Of course, I think a few Mazda6i AT will find their ways into fleets. Good car still.

icvci · August 2003

I think a few Mazda6i AT will find their ways into fleets.

As long as the numbers don't come anywhere near those of the 626.

philippa76 · August 2003

I finally decided to sell my '91 VW, and purchased my first new car - a "base model" Protege5, which isn't very "base" at all! It's comparably equipped to other cars I was looking at with options. The only thing I didn't get (which I already regret) is the ABS/airbags. I didn't get it because my dealer was offering a great deal on this car only - $2500 off PLUS 0% financing for 60 months.

Anyway, it's a 2003, black mica, and didn't come with the roofrack (is that normal now?) I've gotten nothing but positive comments on it so far.

Not much else to say except that I really appreciate these boards and all of you wonderful people on it - I read many of your comments both before and after my purchase, and have learned a lot. In fact, I think I may be suffering from too much pressure in my tires now that I have read of others' experiences with it, and am going to investigate it tonight.

Thanks for everything. I'll keep you updated.

-Philippa

dinu01 · August 2003

Congrats!

My PRO ES came w/40-42 PSi in the tires when I got it and I thought the car rode worse than my prev 93 Civic HB - until I looked at the tire pressure. So much for paying the mandatory PDI fee...

Dinu

philippa76 · August 2003

To piggyback on my last post, I just purchased a new P5. I am quite happy with it, but noticed how rough the ride is. I assumed it all had to do with the sport suspension, but now I think my tires may be overinflated, as well. I have seen several contradicotry posts about what PSI one should have them at - some arguing to go with manufacturer's recommendation, others stating to go by the recommendation printed on the tires. What have you all done, and how has it altered your ride/MPG/tires, etc?

Thanks so much,

Philippa

black mica, AT, base model other than that (131 miles!)

dinu01 · August 2003

If you want a good setup: F-34/R-32 (more on the front to take out the weight from the engine - the PRO has a 60/40 weight ratio)

If you want the "standard" setup: F-32/R-32

If you want the mushy setup: F-30/R-30 (if you end-up biting your tongue too often while riding in the P5)

I sometimes run F34/R32, but more often than not I have 32/32 on the PRO.

Dinu

bluong1 · August 2003

Internet is great but sometime you could run across some very bad informations too.

The markage on the tire is the maximum pressure it can handle. Never inflate your tire close to this number, it's a serious question of life or death here. More death than life in this case I would say.

Take the instruction of car manufacturer as guide line. Dinu resume pretty well.

- Mazda recommends 32/32
- Increase a little bit the front tires will limit the natural understeer tendency of an FWD car.
- When I was in Houston, one of the big driving hazard is hydroplaning. This happens when the pressure of the build up water in front of the tire becomes greater than the pressure of the tire. The car loss the contact with the road and I don't need to describe the rest (I have seen a nasty one happens just in front of me, the nice Lexus just spins like Mickey on ice). Thus increasing the tire pressure is a way to go, in any case underinflated tires are very risky.
- On the dry road, breaking is more efficient at lower pressure. But the reverse happens in the wet road.
- Tire wear decreases and fuel economy increases when the pressure is higher.
- Car as well as human bodies suffer if one run the car with harsh tires. If you decide to inflate above 40psi, don't complain then that your car have rattle everywhere after a year of ownership.

I set my tires 34/32 most of the time.

Bruno

smasher · August 2003

I know the factory specs on the P5 are 32/32.

Don't go with the sidewall rating. Get at least within a couple of PSI of the factory specs.

Here's my theory (and I'm not an automotive engineer): Tire pressure specs have nearly everything to do with the loads on the tires on that car (weight, expected use, etc.). Different pressures are spec'ed based on what load the tires are carrying. So a tire of a given size (say 195/50-16) will need to be spec'ed at different pressures depending on which car it's mounted on. A slightly heavier load will require a higher pressure than a slightly lighter load. The more weight, the more PSI needed in the tire to compensate. I'm assuming the specs are based on average weight (including fuel and driver/passenger), to get the best possible compromise of ride, handling, fuel economy and tread wear at all loads (empty and full). Adjust to compensate.

I don't know if the factory spec depends on OEM rubber; probably not, because there are probably industry-wide standards regarding stuff like sidewall stiffness and so on. (There's probably an ISO or ANSI spec somewhere dictating all this.)

(Oh: Google search: "Tire Industry Association".)

My old Integra was spec'ed at (IIRC) 28/28. I'm assuming that's because it was a light car for its tires. On a heavier car (say, another 200 lbs or so), the same tire size may be spec'ed at 32/32. The oil-change shop always defaulted to 32/32 in its checklist, though I doubt they ever checked the pressure, and they probably never looked up the factory specs for my car, either. I've often heard 32/32 used as a rule of thumb, as the "default" proper tire inflation. But it's wrong; start with the factory specs, and adjust depending on driving style, road conditions and loads.

Any tire engineers out there? Anyone know for sure?

(Obviously, the best practice to stop every ten miles to readjust tire pressure according to current driving conditions, loads, and mood. So be sure to bring a pump with you at all times.)

philippa76 · August 2003

Thanks for your reply. I'm assuming you have the factory tires, and I was wondering how your gas mileage and ride is on your Pro5 (Thanks to others who responded, as well, but Dinu mentioned that he had a Pro5, so, since we have the same car, I wanted to compare.)

I love this board!

-Philippa

dinu01 · August 2003

As one of my high school teachers useed to say: Don't assume anything.

1. I have a 2001 PRO ES sedan - the Canadian version on top of that since I'm in Toronto

2. I had the stock 195/55/R15 Bridgestone Potenzas but after less than 20.000 miles it became dangerous to drive on them and had to buy new tires last summer - I now have 195/60/15 Yokohamas AVIS Touring and just like with the Poortenzas, I use 34/32 for long trips and 32/32 for city driving.

3. As for mileage I've usually get 8.5-9.5 l/100kms in the city and 7.5-8.0 l/100 kms for highway use => don't know the conversion to mpg (:

4. It would be wise to discuss this with "REAL" P5 owners

- not that I'm a fake, but you get the point

Dinu

boggse · August 2003

I get almost exactly the EPA ratings of 25/30 for my 2003 AT Protege5.

philippa76 · August 2003

To what PSI do you have your tires inflated? This discussion started because i'm concerned that my new P5's tires are overinflated (read that this is common during shipping) and I'm trying to get a feel for what has worked for others before I check them out and possibly change the pressure. I've heard various accounts on different edmunds message boards about what works for people, including one account in which a woman lowered her PSi to 32/32 and then got bad gas mileage and tire wear.

Thanks so much,

Philippa

pciskowski · August 2003

I keep mine right around 32psi. I used to keep them at 34, but they are a little smoother at 32. I noticed no difference in gas mileage or tire wear. I average 30 mpg with a 5 speed. My tires currently have 33,500 miles on them, and I have the stock Dunlops, which I think are great tires.

bluong1 · August 2003

It's hard to say how much is the gain of mileage at 34 psi from 32. It's less than 0.5 mpg for sure.

Let's assume that the gain is 0.3 mpg, then you might save about 20 cents for each $20 fuel tank by varying the tire pressures in the reasonable range. Well, if you want splitting the hair for 20 cents then be my guess.

PS: I get systematically get around 29-30 mpg with my manual mysterious car, which I let you the joy to discover from my user profile.

Bruno

boggse · August 2003

I keep mine at 32-34 front and rear. As long as I keep it in that range, the ride and fuel economy are normal. As for tire wear, the Dunlop SP Sport 5000m is not known for excellent treadwear. If you aren't spending the majority of your time on the freeway, you will be lucky to get 20,000 miles out of your tire. I only got ~17,000 out of the same tire on my 2001 Protege ES. I expect to get about the same on my 2003 Protege5. Also, I think fuel economy started to suffer towards the end of the tire life with my ES. I didn't track it religiously, but that is the general impression I got. Tire noise also got much louder.

boggse · August 2003

Apparently they recognize the reliability of the Protege (323) in the UK as well. From the Electronic Telegraph, an article titled, "Image of German cars takes a dent"

"Japanese manufacturers cemented their position as producers of the most reliable cars with the older design of the Honda Accord joining, among others, the Honda Jazz and Mazda 323 in earning a 100 per cent reliability rating."

philippa76 · August 2003

Will this car look modern or dated?

I tend to go back and forth between what I think - the "sportiness" of the headlights, wheels, etc., could cause it to look a little cheesy over time. However, if "sportwagons" are the next big thing in vehicles, this could retain its current appeal even after much time has passed.

Just wondering what y'all think.

-Philippa

philippa76 · August 2003

1. I have the sport AT - is this somewhat rare? Even Edmunds doesn't list this car as Manual and Auto seperately, and I rarely see posts about the AT. Are there any concerns about the AT? Is it used in other proteges or other Mazdas? (I guess that was really more than one question, but oh well)

2. How do you know if you have a ".5" year model? As is, 2002.5, as I see some people referring to their cars - mine was created in March of 2003. Is that considered a 2003.5?

Just curious...

-Philippa

boggse · August 2003

1. The sport AT replaced the standard AT in 2002.5. It is also used in the Protege ES. I don't know that there is any difference between the sport and the non-sport AT aside from the extra electronics for the manual shift mode, and I know of no specific issues with the Protege AT.

2. See #1. Seriously though, Mazda often changes the trim packages mid-year. You have to pay attention to tell the differences. For instance, the 2003 had a standard roof rack. The 2003.5 deleted the roof rack and added a spare-tire sub-woofer. Sometimes they add or delete colors (as with the MS Protege) The Special Editions (older Proteges and Miatas) are almost always half-year models. The DOT doesn't necessarily track these half year models in VIN numbers. You may have to call Mazda to find out for sure if no one can tell you here whether a specific car is a mid-year refresh model.

philippa76 · August 2003

I have the 2003.5 edition in case you're interested - no roof rack, and the subwoofer (which came with no instructions and I have yet to figure out.)

I think it's kind-of silly how much they raised the price (over a year) while actually deleting options such as the roof rack (lists now as $250). Oh well, I still feel I got a fair deal that doesn't keep me up at night, and I don't really need a roof rack, so there.

Thanks for your responses,

Philippa

kauai215 · August 2003

Hi Philippa,

I assume that by now you've checked your tire pressures. May I ask what they were?

What did you finally decide to set them at? The Mazda recommended 32/32 front/rear?

By the way, I expect you know this, but "always" set your tire pressures cold. Driving, at interstate speeds, especially, will heat the tires up and the pressures will increase around 3 psi. (They'll drop back down when the car has been sitting for a while.) Do not bleed the pressures down when the tires are hot, for then they will be too low when cold. The manufacturer has taken this into account when recommending their general-purpose pressures.

Also, note that the general rule is that for each change of 10 degrees in ambient temperature, tires will gain or lose one psi. For example, if you set your tire pressures to 32/32 in the mid-day heat on an 80 degree day, and then check them the next morning when the temperatures have dropped to 60 degrees overnight, you can expect to see pressures around 30/30. That's a two psi drop in pressure following the 20 degrees drop in ambient temperature -- one psi drop per 10 degrees. This is normal, should you happen to notice this phenomenon, and your tires are not leaking air. By noon when the temperatures have climbed back to 80 degrees, your tires will once again be at 32/32 psi.

It's a good idea to check your tire pressures weekly, and whenever there has been a dramatic change in ambient temperature. In fact, whenever I approach my car to drive it, I give a quick glance at all my tires to confirm that they "look right." With experience you'll be able to readily see whether a tire is abnormally low, probably from a slow leak.

Your tires are your "lifeline." Those four fist-sized contact patches are all that is connecting you to the road -- and permitting you to control your car. Tire condition and tire pressures are critically important. You're wise to seek to learn more about them. :-)

You'll probably want to purchase your own tire gauge so your pressure readings are consistent. The gauges found at service stations are often inaccurate -- they get dropped a lot, which is not good for maintaining consistency and accuracy.

For what it's worth, I run 32/32 psi in my 2002 P5 for regular driving. If I've loaded up the kayaks and our gear, and am heading on a longer interstate trip, I'll increase the pressures to 35/35.

If I drove at 80 mph and above for any length of time, I'd increase the pressures, too.

I hope this has been helpful. :-)

bluong1 · August 2003

That's a pretty complete overview of the basic tire pressure set up!

dinu01 · August 2003

For those w/Sport AT

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/030806.htm

Dinu

kauai215 · August 2003

Thanks, Bruno. :-)

I was just offering some additional thoughts to the already excellent advice offered by you and the others here.

It's remarkable just how much there is to explain about tires alone, isn't it?

Some of the bad advice on the 'Net needs to be countered, too, such as that nonsense of inflating tires to the tire manufacturer's figure on the tire sidewall, which is, as you so correctly pointed out, the MAXIMUM permissible pressure that should not be exceeded lest one risk blowing the tire clean off the rim with potentially catastrophic consequences!

If you think your car rides harshly at 40 psi inflation, try 52 psi! My goodness. It'll shake the fillings right out of your teeth. Apart from track days, autocrossing, and other competition events, I cannot think of any circumstances when one might need to inflate one's tires to the maximum permissible pressure.

I often wonder when I see such nonsense advocated on the 'Net whether the writer is truly so ill-informed, or whether they think this is a good joke.

Young(?) folks like Phillipa need good advice when they wish to learn more about their cars and automobiles in general.

You came to the right place, Phillipa. ;-) There are a lot of knowledgeable people here who'll steer you (pardon the pun :-) in the right direction.

meyerlevin · August 2003

In contacting Mazda concerning replacement tires for my 2002 PRO5,they say they can only recommend the same brand and the same size as the OEM tires.That certainly doesn't leave one with much choice at all,as I've seen from many tire companies.Some tire stores give some optional sizes and brands which they say is compatible with the PRO5. Mazda doesn't support deviating from their position of OEM only. What to do? Thanks for your suggestions,Martin

bluong1 · August 2003

I have replaced the Dunlop with the Michelin which are one of the tires recommended by ... [drum roll here] ... my Mazda dealer.

There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to put different tire on your car. As you probably knew, many people here decide to stay away from the Dunlop SP5000 while changing their tires. No need to be too strict on the size of the replacement. All you need to make sure are:
- the size is suitable for the stock rims,
- the tire diameter does not vary more than say 2% from the stock tire (to keep the speedometer and odometer accurate, as well as a similar torque load conditions for the engine)
- there is no risk that the rubbing.

You can trust Ted's (aka Boggse) recommendation.

Bruno

capriracer · August 2003

Yup!!

Try the "Tire Tires Tires" forum - where I usually hang out. Just happened to do a search (I try to do that once a week.) and came across this discussion.

Comments:

The maximum inflation written on the sidewall - Tires are much stronger than kauai215 thinks and you are not in significantly more danger from inflating that high - at least from the pressure alone. Increased risk of an impact failure, sure, but is only a bit more of a risk. But he's right that the proper inflation pressure is what is on the placard.

What the vehicle manufacturers put on the placard (at least in the US) is to accommodate the maximum load the vehicle was designed to carry. If you look at the placard, you'll see the letters GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). 99% of the time that's the load carrying capacity of the tires at the specified inflation pressure. Add the front and rear GAWR's together and you'll notice that this is greater than the GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) which is the maximum design weight of the vehicle fully loaded. The reason the GAWR's exceed the GVW is that the vehicle manufacturers know they need to accommodate loads that aren't exactly where they are predicted them to be.

Sometimes the vehicle manufacturers will add a reserve into the way they calculate the proper inflation pressure. This is a good thing and this is precisely why the some Internet discussions point to the Ford / Firestone debate to support the contention that they should use what's printed in the sidewall. The truth is that Ford generally specifies inflation pressures with no reserve capacity, and Firestone was merely pointing that out and suggesting that every vehicle ought to be designed with some reserve capacity. Personally, I think this is just good engineering practice!

Tire recommendations from vehicle dealers - For liability reasons, I can't imagine any dealer recommending anything but what came OE. HUGE, HUGE potential liability.

Tire Standards - The US tire standardizing body is the Tire and Rim Association (TRA). In Europe it is the European Tire and Rim Technical Organization (ETRTO). There are others through out the world, but these 2 pretty much dominate the field and everyone else tries to be compatible with them.

These guys set the load tables (load vs inflation for a given tire size), the nominal dimensions for a given tire size (Note, there is no requirement that a tire be dimensionally close to the nominal, but they usually are.), and the dimensions and contour of the wheels where they interact with the tire (It is up to the tire manufacturers to design around those dimensions and contours).

The Tire Industry Association is more of a dealer / service organization. They provide training materials on mounting and repairing tires and anything else that a tire service technician might need to know.

There is also an organization called the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA). This organization is more of a collective voice for anyone involved with things made out of rubber. (Tires, gloves, hoses, seals, etc) RMA is the industry's conduit to the government and the public. The RMA has published many things regarding tires and their use. Everything that gets published by the RMA is reviewed by the member tire manufacturers (pretty much everyone!) and reflects their collective wisdom. For example, RMA has been heavily involved with interpreting and implementing the TREAD Act and serving as a singlular point where the government can talk to the tire companies and vice versa.

So to answer the specific question - ISO recognizes these organizations and their standards. But sidewall siffness is not specified anywhere.

I would recommend that everyone use the placard inflation. That way you are always covered for the maximum load conditions. Personally, I like a crisper steering response, so I add 3 to 5 psi to what the placard says. I also get better fuel economy, better tire wear, better wet traction, better snow traction, better tire durability, and only give up a bit of ride harshness.

Hope this helps.

spencer19 · August 2003

I made a brief post on the 'meet the members' board, but wanted to introduce myself here, too.

A few weeks ago I started looking for a car to replace, finally, my 1989 Mercury Tracer hatchback (still runs, but showing its age). Edmunds.com was a great help, as well as lurking on many of the boards and asking a few questions here and there. At most of the dealerships I visited, I knew more about the car than the salesperson, it was kind of embarassing...

I finally narrowed it down to a Mazda P5, or Ford Focus wagon, and after driving both again, and checking my research, I decided on the P5 - got it about a week ago. Thanks to Boggse, I know it's a 2003.5 model - silver, sport AT, a little over 200 miles now, and I do like this car!!

Suffering through 'new car owner syndrome' right now. I want to drive it places, but I'm afraid to leave it alone in parking lots. I had this really strong urge to hand-wash it yesterday, but I fought that off, LOL (have a feeling I will be doing that soon, though - I've been reading through posts from people about what they use to wash and polish and wax their cars, and I'm actually getting interested...). I always kept lots of 'stuff' in my Tracer, but I'm resisting putting too much in the P5 yet, it looks so new and clean inside, I don't want to mess that up. Although taking all 4 dogs to the kennel later this month will take care of that :-)

I'm hoping to do quite a bit of the routine maintenance myself, too, and it's nice to be able to ask others who have the same car, and know so much about it. I hope to post a lot more here and in 'care and maintenance', instead of 'problems'!

Anyway, thanks, I'm glad you're here!

Terri

cogs25 · August 2003

I want to find out if I have a problem with my visors, or not. Both of my visors will NOT stay up against the winshield when I flip them forward. The passenger one stays a couple inches away, and the driver one actually flops back down a bit, partially blocking my vision. When I compare other vehicles, they stay flush against the winshield. Is this just my problem or is it a P5 "feature"?

philippa76 · August 2003

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all of your responses to my question about my tire pressure. I did buy a guage, checked the tires while cold during mid-morning (about 80 degrees out), and found them to be right around 32 PSI. Surprise. So, I guess I just need to get used to the "rough" ride. I have noticed, now that I'm driving it a bit more, that it actually rides quite smooth on the highway and at faster speeds, but the ride leaves a bit to be desired on our beat-up city roads (I live in the Boston Metro area). Particularly noticable is when the pavement was not laid down smooth, and there are "waves" in it - that transmits into a somewhat uncomfortable ride.

I'm sure in time I will adjust to this difference from my Jetta. Since it's new, and I drove my Jetta for 6 years before that, every little difference is magnified during this transitional period. I am enjoying the car, though.

Thanks again for your responses,

Philippa

revka · August 2003

and congratulations! We look forward to hearing more about your 2003.5 silver Protege5. Thanks for your participation! ;-)

Revka
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