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Comments
Why aren't you wanting to install the OME yourself? Time or knowledge? I didn't know too much about installing it, but I found lotsa writeups for the various aspects of the install, and OME's install doc is actually pretty good.
I installed the lift myself in a day, 100% alone, and I'm not that mechanical and I have no air tools.
If you have the time and some basic tools, I highly recommend doing it yourself. The $$ you save, as well as the satisfaction in doing it yourself, is VERY rewarding.
-Paul
Actually to be more precise, it was either seized and therefore drawing more current than it should, or it had a direct short to ground.
Will it be pretty obvious when I find the blown one?
When the fuse 'blows', that strip of thinner metal burns through and current can no longer pass from one blade to the other. Holding the fuse up to the light should show quite clearly whether the fuse is good or not.
Always use a replacement fuse of the same rating. Remember, the fuse protects the wiring from melting and catching fire. Your Jeep will perform better and last longer without having the wiring on fire, really!
http://www.jeepbrokers.com/jeep_project_1_body_lift.htm
Well im off to give it a try..wish me GOOD luck
X = SE plus 6 cylinder engine.
Sport = six cylinder engine, better standard equipment, more available options, it's the most common model.
Sahara = Sport with different trim and body colored fender flares.
Rubicon = Sport with better equipped drivetrain for rock crawling.
Unlimited = Stretched wheelbase.
The puck installation was easy. However, the front radiator snubbers were tough little devils to get popped back into place. I had to use an improvised wedge to put enough force on the bottom to snap the rubber plug into place.
The transmission linkage drop was easy but with a second person holding it into place while I put the screws back into place. To make alignment easier market the metal bracket as to the direction it was before removal so you will not be trying to figure out which side is up later, it made it very simple to put right back into place.
The pucks by the gas tank were the toughest ones but with 3 extensions on my wrench they came out fine and putting them back into place was easy. I also used blue threadlock when re-enstalling the bolts.
The hardest part was the easiest to begin with and that was the fan shroud. I did not use the motor mount lift I got in the kit so needed to lower the shroud 1.25 inches. What i did is cut the fan shroud in half at the mid point horizontal. Bolt the top back on in the orginal place, pull the bottom portion out drill new holes and remount the shroud...I have a 1.25 inch gap between the top and bottom but it works great and much easier than installing the motor mount lift.
I took her for a spin and no vibes upto 50 as thats as fast as i went. I like the look and the 1.25 pucks are not noticeable. I painted the bolt heads black that would be seen on the sides and now it looks great. Im dropping her off on the 6th for the OME install.
You will REALLY know about the vibes once the OME is done.
Told ya it was easy.
-Paul
Other than that, I'm sure mac will have ideas, but it sounds like something with the filler hose and the venting.
-Paul
Has it always done this, or is it something new?
That being said...the MML is actually designed to compliment the body lift and negate the need for a transmission lowering by reducing the driveline angle.
If you ever decide you want that extra clearance back under the belly, that's the way to go.
I also own an 05 Unlimited and want to raise it with an OME suspension kit. Did you finish yet? How much did they charge you to install the kit?
Someone else suggested getting a 2" OME kit and then do a 1" body raise. But if the 2.5" is enough for 33" tires then I don't think this is necessary.
A quick look at Quadratec and the only 2.5" OME kits I can find are only for Wranglers up to 1996?
Many of us think that OME provides just about the best on and off-road ride you can get for the money, so now that you've decided to go with OME, give Dirk a call with DPG Offroad. He specializes not only in OME, but in putting together exactly what you want/need to make sure you get everything right the first time. www.dpgoffroad.com
As for the tires, just because you can fit a 33" tire under a 2.5" lift, doesn't mean you should. You can stuff it under there, but only if you're not planning to drive off-road. The 1" body lift (recommend the 1.25" BL from JKS) gives you the extra clearance to run 33's off-road and on. Again, when you call Dirk, just tell him what end result you're looking for and he'll tell you how to get there. If you want to see what that looks like, look at the pics of Paul's rig. (erickpl)
Let us know how it goes.
I do not have any Vibes at all as i drove it 25 miles home on the highway. I gained a total of 4 inches with the JKS 1.25" Body Lift and OME System so went from 19" to 23" NICE. It looks like there is plenty of room to fit 33's.
Thanks to everyone that gave me advice and the OME is worth EVERY Penny......
I was thinking of getting 33's but if i gain another 2" I dont know if i can park in my garage, my antenna is hitting now....
Id post some pics but dont know how....
I was going to do the OME suspension system myself but 4 wheel parts had an installation special for $99 so i thought it was worth the cost. For the OME suspension system i paid close to $600.
If you do get the OME remember to get the springs for the Unlimited. I have not had any drive line vibes at all. The Ride with the OME is SOOOOO much better than stock im very impressed and felt i got MORE than my $$$$ worth. If you do just the OME you will probably gain 2 3/4 inches as i did and got the extra 1.25" from the BL. I have no regrets and can highly recommend the OME system.
I want to fix that with a Belly Up type tranny skid (lots of good ones out there to choose from, leaning towards 33 Engineering).
I already have a 2.5" OME lift and want to add the JKS 1.25" BL and MML and the tranny skid.
What I don't want to do (yet, because it would be cost prohibitive) is add the SYE kit, CV driveshaft, adjustable rear upper control arms and rear adjustable track bar w/ CV bracket. I definitely do want to add all those things, but need to do it in pieces (again $$$, the supporting stuff is twice as much as the equipment I actually want to add).
With the extra wheelbase of the Unlimited, can I add the tranny skid without unbearable driveline vibes? I see that the SYE and CV driveshaft are "recommended" in almost every case, but no specific mention of SWB or LWB. The MML is also supposed to help ease some of the driveline angle...
What if I do the upgrade and do have driveline vibes? Will they be noticeable at all speeds or only on highway?
Thanks for any insight.
I bet you could do the OME kit yourself if you can get your hands on a spring compressor. That was really the only think that kept me from doing it myself. If I did it over i probably would not have added the JKS body lift although it was easy enough to put on so just as easy to take off. I really dont need the height although it looks COOL.
Does anyone know what would cause the oversteering or play in the steering, maybe higher center of gravity? It seems im correcting my steering more, just enough to notice the difference compared to pre-lift. Highway speeds seem fine except when i change lanes but around town about 30-45mph its noticeable.
Would the spyder trax spacers and larger/wider tires fix the problem ive got 31's now or maybe adding a drop pitman arm, im sitting at 4" of lift Total 2.75" with OME and 1.25" with JKS BL. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks, Jeff
Shouldn't be any need for a spring compressor. With the sway bars disconnected there's enough axle articulation to r&r the springs.
There's no reason for there to be any more play in your steering after a suspension lift. However, because the axles are rotated when the suspension is lifted, the rotation of the front axle will cause the caster angle to be changed, which will reduce the amount of self centering, resulting in 'quicker' steering.
Ok thats exactly whats happening as it does feel like quicker steering....
Is there any "fix" for this issue...not really a problem just curious...but you hit the nail on the head with the quick steer.
Oh and another thing, if any of you do get a lift just try to remember the height change when getting out...i almost did a face plant as my feet slipped under the jeep as i was used to the shorter height and so fell forward luckly into some empty boxes but everyone there including me got a very good laugh....
You could always get the skid you want now (good choice with 33 Eng) and just hold it until you get the adj control arms and SYE. That is what my probable route would go, but I'm going with JKS arms, so I KNOW that won't be a cheap option.
I'd hate to say go ahead and slap on that skid, cuz I just don't know what the vibes or stresses would be like on the LWB.
I'd call em and ask. They are pretty good at answering the phone.
-Paul
You will only gain +-1" by going from the stock Rubi 31's to 33's. I have 3.5" of suspension lift on my LJ Rubicon (no vibes) and I am running 33x12.50's with minimal rubbing; I really have to be stuffed to the max on the front with the steering against the stop to get them to rub. Congrats, I bet it looks great!
-Paul
I am excited to be here and hopefully I'll be sticking around, but I need a little help first:
I am in the process of working out a deal with someone for a 1997 Sport with 124,000 miles on it. The problem is, I don't know if that sort of mileage is common or not. I don't want to get saddled with a car that is going to start giving me problems in 10,000 miles or something.
Also, with mileage like that, auto trans and 2 tops, what would you all think would be a fair price for it? Just looking to get some educated opinions!
Thanks!
Pricing varies according to location, time of year and current demand. I suggest you check out the price guides here on Edmunds, and at Kellys (kbb.com). Then check the completed auctions on eBay and publications local to your area, both in print and on-line.
The 4.0L is a great engine overall though and that mileage is not a big issue for this particular engine, AOTBE. The biggest issue to look for is the exhaust manifold, make sure it was replaced as pretty much 100% of them crack for any of the 1990s Jeeps with the 4.0L. It's an expensive repair, many of us can testify as to that.
I drive an '05 Unlimited, auto, 4.0L. I have a daily commute one way of about 1.5 miles with top speeds of 30mph. I live in a hilly area and have been driving with the overdrive off. I feel like I am getting more climbing power. Am I dreaming? Are there any benefits to doing this? Is this a bad idea?
Thanks
No, that's what the overdrive switch is for.
A lot of things determine engine life. In most cases, number of turns on it is way down the list.
Like you say, taken care of, it will last a long time.
I agree, MPG is a downer. :P
Terry
There are many other factors that will have more of an effect on engine life than a small increase in average rpm. Personal driving style and habits are one.
For me it's 2500rpm at 65mph, and about 2950rpm at 70mph, with a 3.73 and 31" tires. Redline is about 5200rpm, so cruising at 3000rpm is well within the envelope.
I drive briskly in town and I keep up with, or am usually ahead of, most other traffic. On the highway it's 65-70 mph, very rarely above that. Additionally, the a/c is almost always on.
I get a return of between 14 and 15mpg, while a manual should get 15-17mpg.
I was really wondering if this posed additional wear on the car or not. I was also wondering if driving with the overdrive off at low speeds decreases MPG.
My two front tires are pretty low on tread (got add'l discount for this), but is there common steering or suspension related problems that might factor in as well??
Appreciate the help.
Ryan
Things to check (in order) are, wheel balance, wear in any of the steering and front end suspension joints, failed steering damper, and finally, wheel alignment.
However if you need tires anyway, the order changes. Check for wear as noted, then have an alignment followed by new tires and balancing. Finally, if the problem remains (unlikely) check the damper, but don't be tempted to replace it with a bigger one regardless, just to try and mask the problem.