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Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance
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Comments
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
Power steering is one of those ones I'm not sure of. I've never flushed it on a car and never had a pump fail. But it can't hurt. How would you do it? Just suction it out the top and add new? I would definitely not run the pump with the line off as it is waayyy too easy to starve and ruin the pump that way. Be wary of getting air in it also if you do mess with it.
Steve
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
They would disconnect the return line from the pump and feed it into a container of some sort.
Then have someone get into the car, start it, and begin turning the steering back and forth to put a load on the pump while they would stand over the Reservoir filling it with fresh fluid as it emptied. When the clean fluid began to come out of the return line - it's done. Reconnect the return line and you're good to go.
Of course, the PS Pump and return line on the Q was a little easier to get to than ours.. :-)
sda, my dad still loves it. He mentions it fairly frequently about how much nicer and sportier it is than the Regal.
I do mostly highway driving and travel at speeds up to 75 mph.
The F/R brake pads were replaced at the 45,000 miles, so I anticipate that I will need new pads soon. I anticipate that I may need new rotors as well.
Therefore, I am looking for recommendations for replacement Brake Pads and Rotors.
I have seen "Cross-drilled and Slotted" Rotors for $129 for a set of (4) on ebay. I think that these are rotors are made in China and I am concerned that these rotors may NOT be equal to OEM quality.
The GM list price for (1) front rotor is $127 and the rear rotor is $93, for a total set cost of $440. I can get these items for approximately 25% off the GM list price.
Brembo rotors for the 1996 Aurora are approximately $48 per rotor for total set cost of $192. Based on the Brembo reputation, these appear to be a good deal.
I am also curious about the benefits of ceramic based brake pads.
Please share your experiences, suggestions and recommendation on this issue.
Thanks!
For pads, OEM would be a strong candidate for me as they are low dusting, quiet, and seem to brake strongly. They don't seem to be gouging the rotor and have decent life.
For me almost anything is better than OE, I for sure will be looking at some newer brake discs, I think mines are warping or something, I hear this light thump noise coming from my right side, keeping in mind that, I just recently had my pads replaced, so now more than ever I'm leaning toward the warping on the discs.
ethink, I would look into them BREMBOS, they make good stuff, Porsche has BREMBOS on their cars.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Any rotors can warp. A lot of it is about how they are used, and on a heavy car like the Aurora, it's certainly possible to warp them. At least the fronts are a good 12" size though, which helps a bit.
also, 95's got the worse brakes anyways, i think 96's fronts were 1" bigger
they have two part numbers listed for the rear
504-96 reg
504-547 air??
from what you said..the -96 has the air leveling feature??
What I do know is that ACDelco 504-96 is a pair of leveling air shocks with upper mounts. The cost from RockAuto is about $90 plus shipping. The GM part numbers (different left and right) cost about $115 each with a discount; list is >$150 each.
With such a big price difference I was a bit concerned that I was ordering the wrong parts. But they fit perfectly and have worked great for the seven weeks since I installed them.
I think one difference in the parts we see is that some come with the air hose kit, which isn't needed as long as your hoses are OK. The other thing I am not sure about is if all replacments come with the upper shock mounts. Since 504-96 come with the mounts, I didn't examine carefully to see if the old ones could be swapped to new shocks.
Les
It is pretty fast shipping if you live in the midwest, I believe they are out of Dubuque, Iowa.
Anyways, the shocks look exactly like the ones on my Aurora now, and include the mounts. I was wondering though if people have reinstalled hoses also? My car has 107k, and I'm switching out the rear shocks this weekend, so I was wondering, am I going to get the tires off, old shocks off, and then need new hoses?
Has anyone experienced this, or do they just hook in really easily?
I was wondering about things being brittle since they are 7+ years old.
Thanks-
Greg
'96 Aurora
My experience with shock air hoses was same as Mike's. My '97 had 111,000 when I replaced the shocks. The air hose connections were very clean and not brittle. I did bend one of the clips so that it did not retain the fitting upon reinstallation. But I was able to bend it back into correct shape.
Les
I see you have a 1998 LSS, first of do you have any pictures of it? I like to see the LSS I was thinking about getting one of those before I got my 1999 Aurora. I really like the LSS, did you know that the LSS shares some parts with the Aurora like the leather seats, I think also outside mirrors, steering wheel, and some other parts.
Well back to your V6 or V8 decision, I would go for the V8 over the V6, more power, quicker response on the road, but if your looking at it from a savings solutiuon on gas, yeah stick to the V6. If you do get an Aurora, here are some things to keep in mind, warping rotors, I know the Classic Aurora are known for that, the newer ones might not be that bad, also if you do get a 2001-2003 Aurora, go for the one that has the one piece in the trunk, license plate display area, the one with the 2 pieces looks kind of weird.
Well good look on your hunting for that Aurora, let us know what you find.
Peace
Javi.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
The mpg difference is small according to the EPA, but I'm not sure or real-world mpg. I can get about 25 mpg pretty easily on the highway doing 75+ mph, so I think I could get 27-28 mpg if I could stay closer to 60 mph.
From a service standpoint, the 4.0 is nearly identical to the Caddy powertrains, so any Caddy dealer should be able to service it ok. I imagine the same is true of the 3.5, as well. It's the 4T65-E tranny, which is quite common on W-body cars, and the 3.5 that at least a lot of Intrigues also have.
Direct replacement for the oem shocks, far better priced compared to the dealer or AC/Delco
they're super easy to replace for the diy'er with simple tools, and the strange part is there's metric and imperial OEM hardware. (I was surprised!!)
need:
-two floor jacks
-jack stand (for the safety folks)
-some rustbuster/penetrating oil (soak two lower 10mm bolts)
-1/2inch long socket (for 2x upper shock mounts)
-13mm socket for nut on stem
-10mm socket for the two lower bolts on the control arm
-17mm socket for the new nut on the stem
-pliers (to remove the clip on the nipple)
-towel
-3/4 socket with torque wrench
procedure:
-remove center cap (with jack handle, might want to have a towel handy so you don’t scratch the rims when prying off)
-position the floor jack and raise the car a bit (still load on tires)
-crack wheel nuts loose (if you have a locking key do that one first)
-open trunk, remove trim plug on side (just one)
-crack loose the three nuts ½ x2 and the 13mm stem nut
-raise the car, and place jack stand for safety
-loosen/remove nuts and tire
(check pads while you’re there.. you can even bleed the brakes if you want to do more)
-soak two lower 10mm bolts that attach the shock to the control arm
-place the second floor jack under the control arm
-put some tension on the control arm
-remove the two lower 10mm bolts (with the two spring clips attached to the shock you’ll need these two clips for the replacement shocks)
-with the pliers remove the clip and plug
-remove the two ½ inch upper shock nuts
(here the shock will either be free, or you might have to lower the second jack to remove the dead shock)
*the shock should be out at this stage* congrats!
-grab the new shock and open the package with the upper and lower bumpstop washer (larger one on the bottom/bumpstop/smaller ring)
-convex side facing away from the bump stop
-remove the top 13mm stem nut and get the bump stop
-finger tighten the new 17mm stem nut (upper shock part should be now assembled)
-install shock (note the upper bolts only go in one way!! And Nipple facing front of the car)
-finger tighten the two ½ inch nuts
-extend the lower shock and attach the two lower clips
-mate the lower shock to the control arm, and replace the two 10mm bolts
(if you have a thin slot screw driver its easier to align)
-re-attach the plug to the nipple and clip (make sure the nipple and plug are clean)
-tighten the lower and upper nuts and bolts (17mm stem one too)
-straighten trim out
-re install the wheel, and lug nuts, slightly lower and torque (wheel lock LAST)
then the same for the other side should be good to go!!
save some money.. do it yourself its that easy!!
were the control arm bolts that bad for you? Mine came out w/a tiny wrench.
Will be doing the struts this weekend. looking to see how the KYBs will be.
I can get a Visteon radiator for $205 plus $15 shipping. OEM from RockAuto is $420 plus shipping -- very high compared to prices for other OEM parts from Rock. Or $394 plus 6% sales tax from a NJ GM discount dealer. Does anyone know about reliabilty/longevity for Visteon radiators?
Les
The lead mechanic at the dealer strongly recommended that the radiator should be replaced and not repaired. The reason was that they had seen re-occurences of leaking from the other side after repairs.
I have an extended warranty with a $100 deductible, so I went with the GM radiator. The radiator cost was over $500 at the dealer, plus labor (approximately $160).
No further problems experienced with the radiator.
Henri
I know, sometimes rockauto is really cheap on prices, but on certain parts they're ridiculous.
Also, could someone refresh me of what the differences between years (classic wise) was? (oil coolers, part #s, etc).
Thank you for the pointer to GMPartsDirect; their price is 50% off GM list.
Shawn,
1995, 1996, and 1997 first design had an engine oil cooler (EOC) in the radiator; 1997 second design and 98-99 did not.
Numbers from my parts microfiche for Aurora radiators:
1995, code NB, AC-Delco 20735, 52461512;
1996, code ZF, AC-Delco 20318, 52469654;
1997 1st design, code 20890, AC-Delco 20890, 52472781;
1997 2nd design, code FCM, AC-Delco ?, 52476569;
1998 and 1999, same as 1997 second design
Did your question cover other differences in Classics, or just about the EOC?
The Yellow Top is for marine use, and would probably blow the electrical system in the Aurora. The Blue Top is a deep cycle battery, good if you're going to be taking your car to an spl compitition, but not for a daily driver or a performance battery.
The battery is physically about half the size of the original, so you need to drop a mounting screw or two into the floorboard (at least, that's whit I did) and on the 97 (but oddly enough, not the 95) I had to replace the main ground line with a longer (and heavier gauge) wire because it wouldn't reach to the new battery. Total install time: like 10 minutes. At 825 CCA's out of 2 cells, it's a very impressive battery with almost no fade, and no problems in the winter.
My 2 cents.
Is the J-39765 fuel sender spanner wrench actually required to remove the fuel pump retaining ring with the tank not removed? I was pleased to see Olds had installed an access panel so that this job can be done without dropping the tank. However, getting to the fuel pump way back inside the trunk is not easy. I have done this job three times on earlier GM cars, which required dropping the tank. Back then I successfully used hammer and punch to rotate the ring for removal and reinstallation. I'm not sure there is enough clearance to do it this way through the access panel. Has anyone tried?
Also, how does one remove the fuel line connectors from the fuel pump module? Can it be done by hand with a 1/4 turn, or is some tool required?
Les
--Robert
Look at the back of your radiator. All Classics have two metal pipes connected to the driver-side end tank; these are for the transaxle oil cooler inside the radiator. 95s, 96s and 1st design 97s have similar pipes connected to the passenger-side end tank; these are for the engine oil cooler.
Les
I am picking up a 1999 4.0 Aurora with 76k miles. Car looks almost new. In the middle of the Florida day, in traffic the engine temp is about 200 to 210 degrees. Is this hot for this engine.
Also, what kind of total miles can I expect from this engine.
Also..Also, what kind of mpg's can I exptect.
Any info is appreciated.
Tks, Ed
The engine will last a LONG time. The Aurora V8 is the greatest. Go with Mobil 1. Also, when you change oil - 7.5 quarts with an oil filter change. Don't go 8. Don't try to make it read to the full line on the dip stick. Go with 7.5. There are lots of posts and research about this - not worth repeating. My car had a little oil consumption when going to 8 quarts, but at 7.5 it's almost nil.
200 to 210 in Florida traffic is great from an Aurora. The only time you need to worry is when the temp climbs all the way to the top, 270ish. I've had mine up to 260 stopped on I-95 w/o a problem. Try switching to a higher water percentage with antifreeze as we'll never have a freezing problem here in Florida.
As far as MPG goes, it all depends on your right foot. You're get 25+mpg on the highway if you take it easy and 18+ around town. Or if you're like me, you'll get 18 highway and 13 city.
Hey, I can't let the rora take a beating here
John
paul
paul
Thank you very much. I took my 2001 Aurora to the repair shop for ISS replacement and they said there is such a backlog to get a replacement that it would be at least 30 days and said they would lubricate it for now and I could return when a new one comes in. That steering is so quiet, smooth and easy that it is like new again. I called and told them not to order the part. What a difference! Thanks again John, I can't tell you how much I appreciated the information.
John
Happy Thanksgiving
John
If your car has a lot of "scracthes" or "swirl marks" it is the clear coat failing.
Henri
It may not be 1995 as much as if the car is waxed often and parked outside.
John in NC