Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

iamz · November 2008

Countryham is not saying that carbon is closing the gap of his spark plug in cylinder #4, he is saying the gap is physically closed as in a bent metal electrode.

From his post;

" The mechanic feels the only way this happens is for something internal to be hitting the plug at high revs. What could it be? A piston or rod? I'm going to baby it for a while and sell it unless someone has a reasonable fix... "

Mr_Shiftright · November 2008

You could pull a plug and fish around in there for something, or scope it and see if there's some debris. You could have "chunked" part of a piston top or someone could have dropped something in there or installed the wrong plugs.

oldman15 · November 2008

As to LOUD ENGINE KNOCK & DAMAGED SPARK PLUG:

There was a recall on 2/3 P5. Original intake manifold had brass screws in it that would come loose. Replacement elimenated screws.

2 yrs ago had a terrible knock; thought I had broken a rod, etc. Dealer was aware of the recall. During replacement found there was a missing screw. Actual screw was never found; mechanic thought it may have bounced around, maybe melted, or just blew out of exhaust port.

A screw flying around might cause some plug damage, or partially melt onto valve( don't know how realistic that could be?), causing fouling of one cylinder.

At least something to investigate. Good luck.

Oldman15

winston3x · November 2008

the compressor will not turn on in the vent/feet position.

there is a mod to over-ride the idiot proof design but it is not for the faint of heart. it involves cutting part of the circuit board, here's the link

a/c always on mod

I just keep mine in the vent/feet position and close the vents when I need to.

pete79 · November 2008

Thanks a lot for that link!!! This is exactly what I was looking for (although they say it's nothing hard to do, I thought it would be simpler...)!!!

Countryham · November 2008

I'm replying to my own post - I took my P5 to the Mazda dealer in Raleigh, NC (Southern States Mazda) on Wednesday, armed with all the posts about the Intake Manifold Shutter Valve Emission Recall off www.mazdas247.com/forum, www.mazda3club.com/forum, and the issues I have had with the car. Even though I'm the second owner, the car's out of warranty and was sold new by another dealer, Southern States found the problem, had a new intake overnighted in, and I picked up the car today - NO CHARGE!! Happy Friggin' Thanksgiving to me!! The bolts from the intake were all missing, and in the compression chambers, and anytime the revs exceeded 5400, they started moving around and one got between the piston and the plug -twice. I'm totally lucky that the motor didn't bomb out. If you have the same problems, it's not compression or any of the other things I surmised - just a manufacturers defect that the dealers know exists. Make them do what they did for me and quit trying to figure it out, bizarre as it is...

Countryham · December 2008

I'm replying to my own post - I took my P5 to the Mazda dealer in Raleigh, NC (Southern States Mazda) on Wednesday, armed with all the posts about the Intake Manifold Shutter Valve Emission Recall off www.mazdas247.com/forum, www.mazda3club.com/forum, and the issues I have had with the car. Even though I'm the second owner, the car's out of warranty and was sold new by another dealer, Southern States found the problem, had a new intake overnighted in, and I picked up the car today - NO CHARGE!! Happy Friggin' Thanksgiving to me!! The bolts from the intake were all missing, and in the compression chambers, and anytime the revs exceeded 5400, they started moving around and one got between the piston and the plug -twice. I'm totally lucky that the motor didn't bomb out. If you have the same problems, it's not compression or any of the other things I surmised - just a manufacturers defect that the dealers know exists. Make them do what they did for me and quit trying to figure it out, bizarre as it is...

pat · December 2008

That's great news! Consider posting this in our Dealer Ratings & Review section as well. It's always nice to have the good stories to go with the bad.

mavswimmer · December 2008

wow, so over the thanksgiving holiday, i took off the valve cover and looked around inside for anything out of order with the cams and valve springs, nothing really out of the ordinary...put a new valve cover gasket, replaced the spark plugs...while i was changing them, i took a flashlight and looked through the open hole where the spark plug fits into the head...the surface of the piston was completely carbonized(nothing out of the ordinary) but it was also very very pitted!!! evidence of something very wrong! anyways, didnt really know what to do from there, so, put the valve cover back on, tightened all the bolt on the intake manifold(all were loose!!!!)(also added monkey grip to them all)...then started that sucker up...mixture was off, it was running very lean for about 20miles...but thats because i took off the injectors...mixture sorted itself out, and now it runs like a beauty! no issues with the timing belt...so i was wondering, could it have been a loose intake manifold?...just knocking against the block???...while the valve cover was off, had fun turning the engine over and squirting oil in my dad's hair, that was funny! check engine light is off, and no problems are evident...can someone give advice whether i should drive it, or still take it in? I have no Mazda garage within 200miles of me, i would have to travel to Denver( Live in Grand Junction)

iamz · December 2008

It could have been the loose manifold if it was letting in huge amounts of unmetered air resulting in incomplete combustion or not at all. Hard to say. Has anyone had your intake manifold off in the past for any reason?

Mr_Shiftright · December 2008

I think there was something in there hammering the top of the piston and you blew it out either by running the car or by spinning the engine with the plugs out (if you did that).

oldman15 · December 2008

Has anyone replaced their 5-speed Trans fluid w/ Synthetic?
If so, what did you use? How is it working out? Any problems?
Thanks.

ehirshman · December 2008

I saw an old post where someone was experiencing their tranny jumping out of third unless they hold it there. I just bought a P5 last month w/ 87,000 miles on it, and it does this also, but only when it is cold. Once it warms up, it is fine. Anyhow, I could not find a response to his inquiry. Is anyone familiar w/ this, and if so, what the fix may be? Thanks, Eddie

aerosim · April 2009

Hi,
I am experimenting problem with my Mazda Protege 5 2002 with 165000km The problem first occurs at the end of last summer. When I get stock in traffic on hot day (30 & +) for more than 10 minutes, the idle is drastically increasing, regular idle RPM is 900 but it slowly increase 1500, 1800, 2500, 3000, 3500, etc....It gets higher everytime I move of a couple of feets. Suddenly, when the traffic jam is over and I go at a regular speed (80km/h) for 5 minutes, it stabilize & the idle come back to his regular speed.

I wonder if the problem can be the EGR Valve, I didn't brought the car to the garage for this problem because it just come back with new shock in front. The garage change my radiator after I crash my front in december 2007. I'm pointing at the new radiator to not be as efficient at the original one since it needs constant flow of air to refresh. Also I'm planning to change the timing belt but I don't see how it can make a difference.

Can you give me some track to look at plz??

autonomous · April 2009

The problem first occurs at the end of last summer. When I get stock in traffic on hot day (30 & +) for more than 10 minutes, the idle is drastically increasing, regular idle RPM is 900 but it slowly increase 1500, 1800, 2500, 3000, 3500, etc....I wonder if the problem can be the EGR Valve ...The garage change my radiator after I crash my front in december 2007. I'm pointing at the new radiator to not be as efficient

I agree with you that it sounds more like the radiator than the EGR valve. When I had my EGR valve issue, it felt like my 2002 P5 was gasping for air and the revs shot up from the idle to a much higher number (like 2500 rpm). Once the problem started the car was very difficult to drive, so I needed to have the EGR taken care of quickly. The fact that your car has had this problem for nearly a year and occurs during hot periods seems to point to the radiator or some related item (like a hose). I would check around the engine to check the condition of the hoses. If they appear fine, return to the garage responsible for installing the radiator and ask them to check it out again and correct the problem (hopefully, at no or limited charge to you). If they don't agree, you may have to go elsewhere.

gretsch6120 · May 2009

- 2002 Protege5 -

Just happened to open the main fuse box under the hood and found one of the fuse's plastic housing is broken and another fuse is completely missing! I've been on the hunt for a fuse box diagram and haven't been able to find a complete one. We don't have the original owner's manual however I found one online but it only outlines half the fuses in the fuse box! Ha!

See: http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/09-21.PDF

Looking at page one (09-21-01) of the PDF above: The fuse with the cracked plastic housing is directly above #3 and on the right of the two. The missing fuse is the 4th down on the right row of single fuses (to the left of the double fuse row).

Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm hoping someone here can lend a hand in identifying what these two fuses are for.

Andy

iamz · May 2009

If you look under the fuse box lid, printed on the top is the fuse schematic. Depending on your options, there may be empty slots.

protege5hatch · May 2009

Anyone know anything about engine surges when more than one electrical item (such as wipers, lights and blower) is running? I just purchased this Protege5 Hatch with 102,000 miles, recently had to replace the thermostat, timing belt is next just because there were no maintenance records on this vehicle when I bought it, so it's time for the belt I'd say. But the surging whenever more than one electrical item is being run at the same time is the weirdest thing I've ever experienced. It feels like it's either changing gears up and down or just surging forward every few seconds, then it lets off and surges again, etc. If anyone has any ideas, please post. I'd like to know what I'm dealing with before I take it in for repair. Thanks!

autonomous · May 2009

surging whenever more than one electrical item is being run at the same time
So, the surging does not happen at other times?
How does the tachometer react during the surge? Higher rev range?

lmchopper · June 2009

my 2002 mazda protege 5 will not start it is not the battery every time i put the keys in the ignition nothing turns on the only thing that works are the front hazard lights and the interior speedometer non of the other lights will even turn on and it does not crank over when I turn the ignition over. if any one has any ideas please help

iamz · June 2009

Check fuses. How do you know the speedometer works?

mathieuverron · June 2009

Hi, my mp5 2002 150,000km is doing exactly the same as yours did last April. Could you please tell me how it did get resolve? My Mazda dealer just called me today, June 29th, to tell me they don't know what is going on. I had the EGR valve replace 1 year ago, but since the Check Engine light doesn't come on, they say it is not the EGR valve this time.
Thanks for your time.
Mathieu

aerosim · June 2009

Well, I've been avoidind the problem by not getting jammed in traffic when it's more than 25celcius outside... I will bring the car to the garage in a couple of weeks to change the timing belt and i will let know my garagist the problem. Hopefully, he is going to fix the problem (which I doubt) or I will keep avoiding heat trap. Anyway, since April, it didn't really occur again, but I wasn't jam in traffic for more than 15-20 minutes on hot days. I'll give you an update after my visit for the timing belt. In the meanwhile if someone find a solution, let me know.

THX

03p5owner · July 2009

I have a 2003 P5 with a 4-speed sport mode automatic transmission. The transmission suddenly began operating strangely. When the gear selector is in "D" the dashboard indicator shows "M" for manual mode. The transmission does not upshift or downshift when in "D" now. When I place the gear selector in the manual mode position the dashboard indicator still shows "M" and the transmission shifts fine manually. I'm wondering what might cause the automatic mode to suddenly malfunction.

1bandit · July 2009

I have a whine coming from somewhere that starts at about 30 MPH, the trans seems to be shifting ok. When I take it out of gear and coast it still makes the noise.
Any suggestions? 83,000 miles

gretsch6120 · July 2009

Are you sure it's coming from the engine? Is it definitely mechanical? Not old wiper blades for instance? Or something else more cosmetic.

gretsch6120 · July 2009

Realized, I didn't thank you for the tip. Feel like a bone-head I didn't see the diagram but much thanks nonetheless!

-A

gretsch6120 · July 2009

2002 Prot5 - 125k Odo.
Car is overheating when it's warm outside and on the highway driving at 70+ for 20min. or up a long hill. When it's cool, low 60's, there doesn't seem to be a problem. Water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush were all done in the last 15k.

I'm beginning to think we might have a small hole in the head gasket?
Mazda dealer here wants $100 to do a compression test.

Any opinions?

autonomous · July 2009

Car is overheating ... Mazda dealer here wants $100 to do a compression test.

As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other warning signals? How are your hoses to and from the radiator?

The compression test may not be a bad idea if it helps locate the source of the problem.

iamz · July 2009

I don't feel that a head gasket leak would cause your engine to overheat unless you were losing tremendous amounts of coolent in the process. Are you losing coolent? Does your oil look contaminated or are you seeing white clouds of vapor coming out of your exhaust? Those are things to look for with a head gasket failure. A partially blocked radiator could cause overheating. That can be difficult to diagnose though. And as autonomous mentioned, are you sure the car is overheating?

gretsch6120 · July 2009

autonomous, iamz,

>>As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other >>warning signals?

This is purely judging the temperature gauge needle goes up. No other warning signals - no engine light. (We've joked, it's probably the gauge.) How else can we or a mechanic test this?

We don't appear to be losing much coolant. It's not being eaten like I've heard tends to go hand-in-hand with head gaskets.

There doesn't appear to be any coolant in the oil -- Looking for white film around the oil cap as well as smelling cap and dip stick.

>>How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?

I'll look for the vapor out the exhaust, but nothing has seemed out of the ordinary.

Partially, blocked radiator... hmm. There does appear to be radiator gunk in the coolant reservoir. Maybe another coolant flush would unblock things?

Appreciate the replies. Let's keep this going if you guys have time.
A

iamz · July 2009

Sadly, coolant flushes can sometimes cause a partially blocked radiator. If there was any gunk anywhere in the cooling system prior to your first flush, it might have come loose and lodged itself in the radiator. If thats the case, they could try flushing it out in the reverse flow of the original flush. I personally would never do an actual flush. Just a drain and fill.

autonomous · July 2009

>>How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?

Yes, checking for cracks is good; you may want to get a hand held mirror and flashlight to help see around tight spots. Also, I check to see if they feel solid and not mushy and check at the ends to ensure they are securely fastened and are not leaking fluid.

gretsch6120 · July 2009

Hmph -- so the coolant flush 15k miles ago could very be what got us into this mess...

Hoses will be checked.
So my choices are to simply drain the system hoping the gunk will find it's way out, or reverse flush the system which could cause more gunk to loosen. Worse case with the gunk issue is we replace the radiator and hoses, yes? I see a replacement aluminum core Protege5 radiator runs around $150.

Thank you guys. Appreciate the kind support and advice. I will let you know what I discover.

gretsch6120 · July 2009

Checked hoses last night. Didn't see anything to be worrisome. Still soft, no decay or cracking. Coolant level is still okay. We may be losing a little but nothing shocking. I did find something else though...

Drove home from work - 43mi - parked in the driveway, turned off the car. The coolant reservoir was boiling and the radiator fan was NOT running. I turned the car back on and the fan still didn't kick on. The engine room was obviously quite hot after the drive.

Could the fan or related be the issue? After shut off shouldn't this fan kick on using battery power to cool the engine? I wonder if it's not kicking on during driving either.

iamz · July 2009

If the fan is not coming on, that could easily be your problem. Check the fuse that operates the fan first. If that is good, the motor should be easy enough to check by disconnecting the fans motor electrical connector and wire it directly to 12 volts. Keep your hands out of the fan blades. If those two are OK, the relay or the temperature sensor that turns on the relay would need to be checked. I couldn't tell you how to check either of those since I'm not really an electrical guy.

oldman15 · July 2009

Owners manual states replacement as BP13 or BP14 NGK MAZDA

Dealers Parts dept show & stock as replacement BP01.

Anyone have any insight on the differences? Performance based upon differences?

Thanks.

autonomous · July 2009

My "Mazda" spark plugs are NGK and the code used on them is BP01-18-110. They have been fine for the last two years.

oldman15 · July 2009

That's what the dealership shows is the replacement.
Wondering if they are different in any way to the OEM owners manual BP13/BP14.
Thanks

jack159 · August 2009

I, too, noticed the rough ride shortly after I bought my car. Didn't notice this during the average short test drive, but have since found out that all P5's are built with stiff springs and shocks. This, no doubt, is designed this way at the factory to offer superior cornering and handling. I have owned many cars, including sport cars, and believe that other manufacturers have designed better compromised suspension systems and that the P5 is just too stiff.

jack159 · August 2009

(1) coolant level is ok (plastic coolant bottle level - check with temp. gauge showing normal or below)
(2) check if engine temp. normal when driving on highway
(3) If it only overheats in city driving or very slow driving, then cooling fans are not coming on.
(4) turn on A/C....if fans come on , then fan motors are ok
(5) Then problem should be with fan motors temp. sensor or relay

jack159 · August 2009

I don't think my 02 P5 (45,000mi.) problems were the same as yours. However, I'll pass on the solution to the problems I had. Engine would stall at hiway speed or sometimes stall when idling. "Check engine" light would come on. By turning off the key and starting up again, it would be ok for maybe a day or more. Scaning at "Auto Zone" showed "multiple engine misfire". That could mean many things. Went to independant repair shop..........same code. Visual check showed nothing.
Finally went to smog station (Cal.) AH..HA !! read out was "coolant temperature sensor not within specs". Replaced it about 2 weeks and problem is gone. (knock on wood!)

aerosim · August 2009

I've change the timing belt two weeks ago (166 000kms). At the sametime, we change the water pump who was getting tired and the thermostat (23$) to make sure that it work correctly. Since that, the car is running well & I hope it's going to last for a long time. I hope I can get this car up to 250 000 kms before letting him go... it's probably gonna give a hard drive over 200 000kms since it is right now.

borkhuis · August 2009

Hi all. I'm new to this forum and was hoping someone could provide some insite for me. I just changed my rear brake pads. I've done this before on other cars but this is the first time on my P5 at 68k miles. I followed the mechanic manual directions and reversed the order after replacing the pads. Here's my question...Does the P5 require springs to hold the pads onto the calipers? My car did not have them but the instructions indicated they should be on there. If so, can I get generic ones at the local car parts store? Thanks for your help. :confuse:

autonomous · August 2009

Does the P5 require springs to hold the pads onto the calipers? My car did not have them but the instructions indicated they should be on there.
Although, I've never replaced the pads myself, I believe I remember seeing them on my P5. You could check the front brakes.

jrummer · August 2009

I took my car to my regular guy and they removed the rotors and machined them a little to reduce some brake pulsing. Well, I get my car back and noticed a grinding/whining noise I'd never heard before. Turns out the wheel bearings are bad in the left front. Thing is, there was absolutely no noise the day before they pulled the wheels apart. My question is, are the wheel bearings effected pulling off a rotor on a 2002 protege 5? I can only guess the answer is yes and now they wanna charge me to replace a wheel bearing that was fine a week ago. Thanks.

autonomous · August 2009

are the wheel bearings effected pulling off a rotor on a 2002 protege 5?
I would not think so, but I'd have to check. How many miles does your P5 have?
If it's over 60K (100K km), the bearings could have been worn down as part of normal wear and tear. The fact that you did not hear anything earlier could be due to the noise created by the uneven rotors.

BTW I replaced my rotors because I've heard modern rotors are cheap and thin (as in: they do not last long).

oldman15 · September 2009

It's time for a clutch replacement.
Anyone have any experience w/ P5 clutch replacement:
OEM vs. aftermarket?
prices?
helpful hints?

Thanks.
O15

johnfk74 · September 2009

I recently replaced the rear calipers/rotors/pads on my '02 protege 5. Bled the brakes and I'm still getting almost no pedal feel and I can hear the pads rattling around in the back. Any insight please

iamz · September 2009

I can't quite remember but, you might have to manually drive the brake pistons in using the allen screws on the back of the calipers until the pads contact the rotors, then back it off a quarter turn or so. Then try bleeding.

Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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