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From his post;
" The mechanic feels the only way this happens is for something internal to be hitting the plug at high revs. What could it be? A piston or rod? I'm going to baby it for a while and sell it unless someone has a reasonable fix... "
There was a recall on 2/3 P5. Original intake manifold had brass screws in it that would come loose. Replacement elimenated screws.
2 yrs ago had a terrible knock; thought I had broken a rod, etc. Dealer was aware of the recall. During replacement found there was a missing screw. Actual screw was never found; mechanic thought it may have bounced around, maybe melted, or just blew out of exhaust port.
A screw flying around might cause some plug damage, or partially melt onto valve( don't know how realistic that could be?), causing fouling of one cylinder.
At least something to investigate. Good luck.
Oldman15
there is a mod to over-ride the idiot proof design but it is not for the faint of heart. it involves cutting part of the circuit board, here's the link
a/c always on mod
I just keep mine in the vent/feet position and close the vents when I need to.
If so, what did you use? How is it working out? Any problems?
Thanks.
I am experimenting problem with my Mazda Protege 5 2002 with 165000km The problem first occurs at the end of last summer. When I get stock in traffic on hot day (30 & +) for more than 10 minutes, the idle is drastically increasing, regular idle RPM is 900 but it slowly increase 1500, 1800, 2500, 3000, 3500, etc....It gets higher everytime I move of a couple of feets. Suddenly, when the traffic jam is over and I go at a regular speed (80km/h) for 5 minutes, it stabilize & the idle come back to his regular speed.
I wonder if the problem can be the EGR Valve, I didn't brought the car to the garage for this problem because it just come back with new shock in front. The garage change my radiator after I crash my front in december 2007. I'm pointing at the new radiator to not be as efficient at the original one since it needs constant flow of air to refresh. Also I'm planning to change the timing belt but I don't see how it can make a difference.
Can you give me some track to look at plz??
I agree with you that it sounds more like the radiator than the EGR valve. When I had my EGR valve issue, it felt like my 2002 P5 was gasping for air and the revs shot up from the idle to a much higher number (like 2500 rpm). Once the problem started the car was very difficult to drive, so I needed to have the EGR taken care of quickly. The fact that your car has had this problem for nearly a year and occurs during hot periods seems to point to the radiator or some related item (like a hose). I would check around the engine to check the condition of the hoses. If they appear fine, return to the garage responsible for installing the radiator and ask them to check it out again and correct the problem (hopefully, at no or limited charge to you). If they don't agree, you may have to go elsewhere.
Just happened to open the main fuse box under the hood and found one of the fuse's plastic housing is broken and another fuse is completely missing! I've been on the hunt for a fuse box diagram and haven't been able to find a complete one. We don't have the original owner's manual however I found one online but it only outlines half the fuses in the fuse box! Ha!
See: http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/09-21.PDF
Looking at page one (09-21-01) of the PDF above: The fuse with the cracked plastic housing is directly above #3 and on the right of the two. The missing fuse is the 4th down on the right row of single fuses (to the left of the double fuse row).
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm hoping someone here can lend a hand in identifying what these two fuses are for.
Andy
So, the surging does not happen at other times?
How does the tachometer react during the surge? Higher rev range?
Thanks for your time.
Mathieu
THX
Any suggestions? 83,000 miles
-A
Car is overheating when it's warm outside and on the highway driving at 70+ for 20min. or up a long hill. When it's cool, low 60's, there doesn't seem to be a problem. Water pump, thermostat, and coolant flush were all done in the last 15k.
I'm beginning to think we might have a small hole in the head gasket?
Mazda dealer here wants $100 to do a compression test.
Any opinions?
As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other warning signals? How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
The compression test may not be a bad idea if it helps locate the source of the problem.
>>As in your temperature gauge needle goes up into the red? Do you get any other >>warning signals?
This is purely judging the temperature gauge needle goes up. No other warning signals - no engine light. (We've joked, it's probably the gauge.) How else can we or a mechanic test this?
We don't appear to be losing much coolant. It's not being eaten like I've heard tends to go hand-in-hand with head gaskets.
There doesn't appear to be any coolant in the oil -- Looking for white film around the oil cap as well as smelling cap and dip stick.
>>How are your hoses to and from the radiator?
No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?
I'll look for the vapor out the exhaust, but nothing has seemed out of the ordinary.
Partially, blocked radiator... hmm. There does appear to be radiator gunk in the coolant reservoir. Maybe another coolant flush would unblock things?
Appreciate the replies. Let's keep this going if you guys have time.
A
No idea, what should I look for, cracking? Bad connections? Anything specific?
Yes, checking for cracks is good; you may want to get a hand held mirror and flashlight to help see around tight spots. Also, I check to see if they feel solid and not mushy and check at the ends to ensure they are securely fastened and are not leaking fluid.
Hoses will be checked.
So my choices are to simply drain the system hoping the gunk will find it's way out, or reverse flush the system which could cause more gunk to loosen. Worse case with the gunk issue is we replace the radiator and hoses, yes? I see a replacement aluminum core Protege5 radiator runs around $150.
Thank you guys. Appreciate the kind support and advice. I will let you know what I discover.
Drove home from work - 43mi - parked in the driveway, turned off the car. The coolant reservoir was boiling and the radiator fan was NOT running. I turned the car back on and the fan still didn't kick on. The engine room was obviously quite hot after the drive.
Could the fan or related be the issue? After shut off shouldn't this fan kick on using battery power to cool the engine? I wonder if it's not kicking on during driving either.
Dealers Parts dept show & stock as replacement BP01.
Anyone have any insight on the differences? Performance based upon differences?
Thanks.
Wondering if they are different in any way to the OEM owners manual BP13/BP14.
Thanks
(2) check if engine temp. normal when driving on highway
(3) If it only overheats in city driving or very slow driving, then cooling fans are not coming on.
(4) turn on A/C....if fans come on , then fan motors are ok
(5) Then problem should be with fan motors temp. sensor or relay
Finally went to smog station (Cal.) AH..HA !! read out was "coolant temperature sensor not within specs". Replaced it about 2 weeks and problem is gone. (knock on wood!)
Although, I've never replaced the pads myself, I believe I remember seeing them on my P5. You could check the front brakes.
I would not think so, but I'd have to check. How many miles does your P5 have?
If it's over 60K (100K km), the bearings could have been worn down as part of normal wear and tear. The fact that you did not hear anything earlier could be due to the noise created by the uneven rotors.
BTW I replaced my rotors because I've heard modern rotors are cheap and thin (as in: they do not last long).
Anyone have any experience w/ P5 clutch replacement:
OEM vs. aftermarket?
prices?
helpful hints?
Thanks.
O15