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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair



  • waydewayde Posts: 198
    Make sure that your airflow is coming from outside - the button with the car/airflow.

    Use recirc during summer months with A/C on.

    Hope this helps.
  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    The P5 is set up to use the AC and outside air in the Defrost, Defrost & Feet, and Feet positions.

    Without resoldering some electrics, this is the ONLY way it will work regardless of what buttons you push.

    It is set that way so you are always using the dryest air to defrost the car.

    If it's really cold (like it is in New England now) an your car sits outside, you're going to get some frost no matter what you do. Just keep beating it down with the defroster while you are in it and it shouldn't get out of hand.
  • One of the three screws that hold the heatshield on at the front of the engine is missing. Does anyone know if this is a special screw/bolt or can I use one of any type if it is the same size?

  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    ... as a very common thing people noticed on their 2000/2001 and newer Proteges (all flavours). Run a search at - its been discussed. I think the consensus was that this was a redundant screw location, although the dealership should (?!) be happy to pop one in there for your peace of mind.
  • Thanks...I called the parts department but they said I had to pull another one of the three so they could match it...maybe I will drive by later this week and see if they could fix while I wait.

  • bezadrbezadr Posts: 5
    I posted this on the regular Protege site, thought I'd try here as well.

    I know my 5spd Protege5 doen't have a turbo (it would be nice though!), but when I hit 3.5K rpm, there is a distinct whine that sounds like, like a spooling turbo, but much fainter. The vehicle it 8 months old, and has 20K miles on it (I have a 100 mile/day commute). Has anybody else noticed this, or knows what this might be? Also, on a side note, does anyone know of a good Mazda mechanic in Orange County, CA
  • I have a 2002 Protoge 5 automatic that was purchased in the summer of 2001. The sticker claims that the mileage should be 25 and 28mpg average. The car now has about 13,000 miles on it and still it only gets about 20mpg, and 50% of the miles are highway. I have been to various dealers 3 times now and they all say everything checks out OK. I don understand, we don't drive it all crazy. What can I do? Anyone else get bad mileage?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    Have your MAS (mass airflow sensor), plug gap, oxygen sensor checked. Even a loose ground connection can cause problems with sensors.

    Any of these can cause a richer fuel/air mixture than needed, causing your fuel consumption to increase.

    Also check your tires for any signs of uneven wear and proper inflation pressure. Either can increase friction.

    Make sure your transmission engages the torque lockup at about 45mph (after shifting into overdrive, you'll also see a slight reduction in RPMs at about this speed when the lockup engages). This greatly reduces friction losses in the torque converter at highway speeds. If it's not, then get your AT checked out. Might be a bad or poorly grounded sensor.
  • We have a 2002 refresh P-5. Although ours is a 5 speed, we almost always get between 31-35 miles per gallon. We do not drive the car real hard, so that may help us get better mileage. Our car has about 4500 mi. on it. Most of our mileage is highway. Our family also has 2 other Proteges, both 2001 models, an LX 2.0 Automatic, and an ES 5 Speed. The ES almost always gets from 30-33 miles per gallon, the LX Auto gets from 25-32 miles per gallon.
  • krotinekrotine Posts: 93
    There is a Technical Service Bulletin on this. Click or paste this link:


  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    3 Proteges in the family? Have you posted here before? If not - welcome to the place :)

    There are a whole bunch of others with 2 Proteges, or 2 Mazdas - but 3 has to be the record!
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    '89 323LX
    '99 ProtegeLX
    '03 Protege5

    Of course, one is ancient. :)
  • I think I may have made a post or 2 on the Protege board in the past. I mostly just read the comments posted on various Mazda boards. We have owned Mazda vehicles since our first purchase in March 1985, a B-2000 base pickup truck that we loved and was very dependable. We have had a number of other Mazda vehicles since then.
  • I have been to 2 different dealers, multiple times. They say that they are checking the factory settings which I assume are what you are saying here. I am not sure what else I can do.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Try to do most of your driving around 50mph in 5th gear without much variation. If you see a huge improvement, it's your driving style. If not, something is amiss with the car.

    There are so many factors that affect mileage that it's hard for a dealer to determine if there is something wrong with your vehicle other than what the various systems and sensors tell them.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    on point. I had a couple of really bad tanks in my 2001 ES 5sp. 19 mpg. Both tanks consisted of starting the car in the morning (sub zero temps) and letting the idle settle down a little. Then, I would drive about 2 miles to the bus station and turn the car off. Same thing in the afternoon. 5 days a week. Half the time the car was running, it was running cold. I decided to do a test. I filled the tank full and headed out for a loop through Minneapolis, a route that is all freeway and about 60 miles. I didn't go during rush hour, so I could just cruise the whole time. I was going anwhere between 60-70 mph the whole time and the car stayed in 5th gear the whole time. I was very easy with the throttle. I filled up at about 60 miles on the trip odo. 39 mpg!! I know the margain of error increases when you don't burn a full tank, but I can't imagine it being worse than +/- 5 mpg. So even if it was off, I think it was still at least 34 mpg.
  • mudflatmudflat Posts: 47
    This may be a silly question, but you're not running around with the overdrive disengaged, are you?
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    A few weeks ago I too got terrible mileage from my 2.0 ES.

    Last nite I filled up and on mostly highway driving (say 75% highway, 25% city) since last week, I got a very nice 9.17L/100kms - sorry don't know how many mpg that is, but I know 9L/100kms is not bad. Not bad considering last nite I drove over 100kms between 120-140km/h, at times with the A/C on to defog the windshield.

  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    I'm no expert on this but I believe that driving your car only 2 miles then turning it off will never allow it to warm up which in turn will give you bad mileage. I'm sure that if you did this in the summer you would still have the same problems. Not to sound mean but couldn't you walk the 2 miles and save you car for longer drives. The avg person walks 3mph so at a brisk pace you could make the trip in 30 minutes. How long is the drive taking you now. Maybe your situation doesn't allow this which I could also understand. I can still manage 9L/100km (approx 26-27mpg US) in the winter with winter tires driving 120-130kph (70-80mph) in my P5. Try taking only longer trips in your car and see if you have any improvements.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "Not to sound mean but couldn't you walk the 2 miles and save you car for longer drives."

    Well, it's really more like 2.6 miles, and there is no way I'm walking that far when it's this cold out. On top of that, it would add at least another hour to my already long commuting time. That would mean getting up 45 minutes earlier (5:15 AM) and getting home later. No way. I know short trips aren't good for my car, but what else can I do?

    "Try taking only longer trips in your car and see if you have any improvements."

    I did do that. I wrote about in the post above.
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    Wow that would be crazy (getting up at 5:15AM) and even I don't want to do that. I actually do walk in this cold weather everyday but my walk is only 30 minutes long at the most. Today the temp was only -20C (-8F?). They say that it should warm up by the weekend, ya right.

    "I know short trips aren't good for my car, but what else can I do?"

    There really isn't much you can do. I'm sure you don't want a hybrid as I imagine you bought the P5 for space and its funness (I really don't think that is a word?) to drive. Just think about summer and and how nice it will be to drive witht he windows and sunroof (if you have one) open.
  • capitanocapitano Posts: 509
    don't know if you are looking for a longer commute but that is one way to get the car warmed up better. When I lived in Alaska, I was 1.5 miles from the office. In order to let the car heat up, I drove a round about way of 8 miles or so. But still, my commute was very short. I did all that, because I had read a book about how to make a car last and it made a big deal about cold operation. The advice was not to idle and let it warm that way, but to warm it by driving and not to shut it off when it hadn't reached normal operating temperature. Oh, that reminds me, I also used a radiator blanket to block some of the airflow to the radiator.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    is at it's normal point when I shut the car off at the park & ride. I'm just worried that the oil doesn't get hot enough to burn off all the water in it. Same goes for the exhaust. If it doesn't heat up enough, the water inside doesn't burn off. I've tried doing a round about drive to the bus station, maybe I should do it more often. I can tell it's really bad for my car, it gets 19 mpg operating this way.
  • capitanocapitano Posts: 509
    Does your area use the special winter fuels to reduce smog, inversion etc? That stuff helps kill mileage.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    uses "winter" gas in the winter. I've taken that into consideration also.
  • I am trying buying a mazda for the first time. A P5. I took it for a test drive and it drove great. One thing that I noticed though, was that it rode kind of ruff but not really bad (only while driving down the rode like it was a little bumpy). Is it just because the suspension is tight or should it be looked at, because I am used to driving a '92 Integra.

    Also, what is everybody's opinion about the P5 and has it given anybody serious problems?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,329
    It is firm. That's the way it is. It isn't harsh though.

    So far so good, but my wife's had hers only since early January. My '99LX (Jan 1999) has been excellent after they aligned the steering wheel, which was about 15 degrees off (except the head unit refuses to play CDs now...I'm replacing it with an aftermarket system).
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I have a 2003 P5. Before that I owned a 2001 Protege ES. The reason I traded was my wife's desire for an automatic transmission. We both love the new P5. I just took a 600 mile trip from Durham, NC to Washington, D.C. this past weekend. The P5 was great. While the ride is a little firm, the seats are very comfortable and the seating position is the best I have ever experienced. We experienced no back pain or discomfort as we used to in the 2000 VW Jetta we owned prior to the Protege. We have at least 2 more trips planned this spring, and we are very glad we have this vehicle to make them in.
  • cbmortoncbmorton Posts: 252
    My P5 will be a year old this coming Sunday and I'm pleased with how it's performed. There have only been two minor issues that required dealer attention: a rattle in the radio and a noisy window regulator, both fixed on the same visit. Fuel economy has been good, although not stellar, and the build quality is excellent.

    I think the P5's ride is fine on the whole, although I have found a local street that makes my teeth rattle when I take the P5 down it, but that's a rarity, and a small price to pay for the crisp, direct handling that's a big part of the fun-to-drive factor.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    For those of you experiencing the "Death Rattle," here is a link to the TSB:
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