Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

kuruptboi · May 2005

i took the car in for service on the idle problem after putting the stock intake back on. the dealership thinks the PCM is screwed and has since given me a loaner car (05 Mazda 6 V6) until they can figure something out.

autonomous · May 2005

a loaner car (05 Mazda 6 V6) until they can figure something out

Not a bad loaner! Let's hope everything works out with your P5.

kuruptboi · May 2005

now they are saying "they think" the problem is the mass air flow sensor. they think it needs replaced. they are also saying that it needs replaced because of the aftermarket intake that was on there...and thus the replacement and the labor is not covered under warranty...adding almost 400 dollars to my bill. and if it isn't the problem they will take the part off and only charge me for the labor. seems that no one knows how to fix this thing and i am paying for their experiments on my car.

mdaffron · May 2005

First, you've got a problem that's proving difficult to diagnose. Hey, car mechanics aren't gods. Sometimes it takes more than one attempt to repair something. That's life.

Second, you have no recourse on the warranty thing, unfortunately. Any owner's manual and warranty literature, including Mazda's, will tell you that modifications will void the warranty. And many people heed that -- I've read cautions from people on several forums who recommend doing all this "modding" after the warranty expires for just this reason.

You really have no one but yourself to get mad at about your voided warranty.

Also, regarding your "I am paying for their experiments on my car" comment -- well, they could turn that comment around and tell you they're having a tough time diagnosing the problem because of all the "experiments" you've done with Mazda's engine. I have been visiting this discussion for as many years as we have had a Protege5 in our driveway, and since April 2000 as a Protege owner -- and yours is the first problem of its kind that I can recall with a Protege5 or a Protege.

I can report that my wife's Protege5 has 49,500 miles on it, and my Protege (which I recently traded for a 3) had 91,100 miles on it, and several people I know on the off-site forum I manage have Protege5's with at least 50,000 miles on them -- and none of us have had these kinds of problems. Of course, our cars are all stock too.

Meade

autonomous · May 2005

I can understand how kuruptboi and others would like to personalize and modify their machines. Many of us felt the P5, as much fun as it is, was underpowered at 130hp. It went something like, wow, what a car, I wonder if it had a few more horses how fantastic it would be. I and countless others dreamt of a Mazdaspeed version (which happened to the sedan) or an upgrade (which happened, and became the 160hp Mazda3).

Some owners took action by modifying. I think everyone realizes that as soon as you start switching parts, you are responsible for that part. In cases where there are good parts installed by competent installers there may never be a problem. What may not be obvious is that by modifying, you're not only changing the part but affecting the related parts on the car. So, that K&N filter may not be the best idea if it starts fouling your throttle body. Or that turbo component from some firm on eBay may not be worth the headache if it turns out to be a problem and has to be removed.

The good part of this story is no one was hurt in the process. Yes, there is some money being exchanged but this is a small price to pay compared to a failed component that causes an accident.

Thanks kuruptboi for sharing your saga, I hope the rest of the story turns out well for you.

jw03 · May 2005

I recently bought a MP5 2003 with 10,000 miles on it. Seemed to be running great for a while, but I noticed that when I would have the fan or air conditioning on there seemed to be a bit of a hick-up in the power at times... It would hesitate upon acceleration, and the wierdest thing of all, the lights would dim very slightly and then go back to normal. I took it in to the dealer I bought it from and asked them to check it out. They said it was "normal" when the fans would kick on for the engine to feel a drain on the power. I don't really buy it. I've driven enough cars before this one to know that the motor should be able to handle powering the ventilation system without dimming the lights and causing the car to be jerky when I'm speeding up. Any clues or ideas?

iamz · May 2005

1. Your AC kicking on (compressor pump) will momentarily load the engine and cause the lights to dim (more so at idle though).

2. Your electric blower fan for the interior should not.

3. Your engine cooling fan will though because of the power draw at start up.

rwimberly · May 2005

Hey I have the syptoms and have tried almost everything.

pawletzki · June 2005

I have a Protege 5 2002 and it has 54000kms on it and the ABS and brake light stay on. I wondering if anyone could help me out? The car runs fine except for these annoying lights staying on.

autonomous · June 2005

According to James E. Duffys Modern Automotive Technology (Tinley Park, IL : Goodheart Wilcox) the first thing to check is the base brake system not the ABS.
To begin anti-lock brake system diagnosis, make a visual inspection of all the major parts. Any possible base brake system defects must be ruled out first before an ABS or TCS problem is suspected. If the red brake light is on, you must check the base brake system first. ... Based on your findings, determine what step should be taken next. If the (brake) fluid level is low, check more closely for leaks. If one set of brake pads is worn down, make sure that the corresponding wheel is not dragging.

twistylocs · June 2005

I'm in the market for a new car, and thought that I would end up with a new Hyundai Elantra. Instead, my husband wants us to take a look at a used Protege 5, something I'd never considered.

While doing some research on availability in the Vancouver area, I came up with not one, but four 2003 Yellow P5 (auto transmission) for sale. Was there something particularly troubling about the yellow 2003 P5s that I should know about? It just seems odd that there are so many of this one color/model available in my area. :confuse:

Thanks in advance for any insight!

autonomous · June 2005

While doing some research on availability in the Vancouver area, I came up with not one, but four 2003 Yellow P5 (auto transmission) for sale. Was there something particularly troubling about the yellow 2003 P5s that I should know about? It just seems odd that there are so many of this one color/model available in my area.

I certainly hope not, mine is a 2002 yellow P5. The color was quite popular at the time and several other brands seemed to have caught on; maybe that ends up decreasing its wow factor. My car has been flawless including its paint job.

The Hyundai Elantra is an excellent contender; personally that was my runner up after the Pro. Can I suggest you test drive both and then compare them by overall value? Either way you'll win.

twistylocs · June 2005

Thanks, autonomous. We've driven (and driven) the Elantra GT and honestly, it's my top contender - you can't beat 0% financing. I'm keeping an open mind, however.

autonomous · June 2005

We've driven (and driven) the Elantra GT and honestly, it's my top contender - you can't beat 0% financing. I'm keeping an open mind, however.

You're right, Hyundai makes great offers. Mazda has similar offers for some of its new products; my Pro5 came with 1.9% for 3 years; I believe the current Mazda3 has excellent short term (24 month) rates. The other plus of a new car, and especially of Hyundai, is the warranty. If you love the car and intend to keep it for several years having low payments and a healthy warranty period is icing on the cake. The downside of a new car is the larger tax bill, the freight and PDI charges. The downside of a used car is you inherit all the bad behaviour of the previous owner with a fraction of the warranty if any.

How do you find the ride quality of the Hyundai? Is it right or too soft or too stiff? My wife does not appreciate the Pro5 stiff suspension, I personally love it.

In the April 2005 issue of Consumer Reports (aka the annual auto issue), the Hyundai Elantra was rated 7th in the "Small cars with automatic transmissions" group. The top 10 were: Ford Focus ZX4 SES; Mazda3i ; Toyota Prius ; Honda Civic hybrid ; Toyota Corolla LE ; Honda Civic EX ; Hyundai Elantra GT ; Kia Spectra EX ; Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS; Nissan Sentra 1.8S. Have you compared the Mazda 3i and Hyundai?

Best of luck

twistylocs · June 2005

We have compared the Mazda 3 and the Elantra, and if it weren't for the fact that there's an almost $6,000 price difference between the 3 Sport (GT Trim) and the Elantra GT, we'd definitely buy the Mazda 3. The same can be said for the Subaru Impreza Wagon - impressive car, but out of our price range. Unfortunately we can't afford a short term financing deal, and we're not interested in leasing a vehicle.

As for the ride quality of the Elantra GT, I found it a bit mushy and underpowered compared to the Mazda 3. Don't get me wrong - it's a perfectly serviceable car and I know it has its fans. But I liked the stiffer suspension of the 3. I've heard that adding a sway bar from the Hyundai Tiburon to the rear of the Elantra improves the ride quality.

Tonight we're test driving a 2003 P5, Black, loaded (including leather). All of the points you raised regarding warranty are definitely on our minds as we make this decision.

autonomous · June 2005

Tonight we're test driving a 2003 P5, Black, loaded (including leather). All of the points you raised regarding warranty are definitely on our minds as we make this decision.

The suspense builds!

Here are a few things to consider while you're test driving:
- horsepower (does the vehicle have enough pick up and passing ability?)
- viisibility out the rear window (are you comfortable with the view?)
- tires (are they the original Dunlops or have they been upgraded?; the Dunlops are great but do not last long, they may last up to 50K km, if you're easy on them)
- interior (is it too dark?, is the leather substantial/good quality?)

I raise the above points because of comments I have read on these boards. Personally, I have no problems in any of these categories, in fact I find the Pro5 has great pickup, good visibility (making it really wonderful to park!), sporty tires (with great cornering ability), and a stylish interior (since leather is not my preference, the cloth seats are just right).

BTW: The Mazda 3 Sport GS is at least $1200 cheaper than the GT and still exceptional.

Have a great drive and let us know what you both think!

autonomous · June 2005

if it weren't for the fact that there's an almost $6,000 price difference between the 3 Sport (GT Trim) and the Elantra GT, we'd definitely buy the Mazda 3.

According to MSN Auto the Mazda3 can be cheaper or pricier than the Elantra for some very good reasons.

First of all, the Elantra GT comes loaded with a 138 hp engine. Your comments about an underpowered ride compared to the Mazda 3 is well taken since the Mazda 3 Sport comes with a much heftier 160 hp engine. If instead we used the Mazda 3 i (non-sport) version it would be closer as it has a 148 hp engine. These numbers go a long way to explain the pricing.

C$19,800 Mazda3 GS i (non sport) + automatic + AC + 148 hp
C$20,500 Elantra GT - automatic (AC included) + 138 hp
C$22,300 Mazda3 GS Sport + automatic + AC + 160 hp

As you can see the price differential is not that great between the first two. The Mazda3 Sport costs an additional C$2K because it is more substantial. These are of course MSRP and not real prices so depending on negotiations the gap may be larger or not. I think each of these qualify as good choices depending on what you want. Finally, the 2003 Protege5 with its 130 hp engine is much cheaper but you already know that.

twistylocs · June 2005

I don't want to turn this into a Mazda 3 vs. Elantra discussion

, but I really appreciate the numbers you've posted. The issue is that the Mazda 3 doesn't come with nearly as many options as the Elantra; to get a similarly equipped 3 Sport, we'd have to pay about $25,700 (that's the price we were quoted at Signature Mazda in Vancouver). While the 3 sedan is fantastic, we love the utility of a hatchback.

The Black Protege 5 was sold earlier Tuesday afternoon before we got there, but we had an opportunity to drive a silver P5. The car handled beautifully, but there was a strange moldy smell in the car - very slight, and not noticeable when the ventilation was turned on. The dealer told us that this model had been in an accident, and though you couldn't tell, just knowing that bit of information turned us off that particular car. We're going to contact the dealer to tell him that we're interested in buying a P5 and to let us know if he gets any others.

mz_demeenor · June 2005

mine has also stalled 2 times since i bought it. both times while idling in traffic. i rushed to the nearest mazda repair store today because oil was leaking from my engine. i was told i had a broken gasket. i had had my oil changed there 1 month prior..hummm. anyway, while there i told them about the stalling and they said there was a "TSB" about it, and they said they fixed it. we shall see!.

autonomous · June 2005

Hopefully everything works out with your P5!

Could you provide some more details for the benefit of others?
What year? 2002? 2003?
Manual or automatic transmission?
Any early warning signs to watch out for apart from the leaky oil?
Number of the TSB?
It sounds like this was done without charge, is that right?
Do you want to mention the dealership?

Thanks mz_demeenor!

autonomous · June 2005

the Mazda 3 doesn't come with nearly as many options as the Elantra; to get a similarly equipped 3 Sport, we'd have to pay about $25,700 (that's the price we were quoted at Signature Mazda in Vancouver).

Wow, that's steep! Are you going gung ho with the leather seating, moonroof, etc. at that price? Do you really want all those things or is it done for comparison? Options can be a pain; often you can't get exactly what you want because you have to take A to get B. I would not opt for leather, moonroof, 17" alloys, antitheft because I don't value them. Moreover, when comparing, those models which have unwanted options end up being discounted. So even if a model offers more, if it's not something I want, I discount the unwanted option. The Mazda 3 Sport GT comes with 6 not 4 speakers which could be important; I wonder if its worth the additional C$1200 upgrade cost or could I live with only 4 or whether I should just add 2 speakers on my own. Some of the "all inclusive" packages leave me feeling as if I need to drive in a full tuxedo. Sorry to rattle on!

Let us know how you like the silver bullet!

eurotheworld · June 2005

I currently own a 2002 Mazda mp5, 5 speed, with every option. I drive a lot, for example the odometer just turned over to 115,000 miles. And I bought the car with 6 miles, brand new from Davis Moore in Wichita KS, 3 years ago. The only problem ive had is the Shifting fork broke in the transmission, But dont worry I race mine, and the problem was my entire fault, not the cars. I have done many after market mods, none ever causing a problem. This car has been rally raced, jumped, zoomed around corners at 100+mph. And never once has it ever developed a problem. But I also change its oil every 2500 miles, and its cold air intake filter every 8,000 miles only becasue, "if you abuse it u need to baby it". My mp5 has also, and still has a slight dip in the rpms and low idel or stoping, its never died, and it always starts. I just bought a Subaru WRX Sti 05, but I will not sell my mp5, they only made them for 2 years, and the MP5 and MP3 have nothing to do with Ford. Remember Ford buys Madas Engines. Mazdas buy NOTHING from Ford.

I still drive my mazda, even with my new Subaru, the 300hp Sti is A LOT faster But, It kills your back , and your neck!!! Also, ive orderd a 250hp+ turbo for my mp5. Which means many more mods will take place. Moral of this Story is, Love your car and it will Love you Back! Ohhhh and remember washing your engine keeps it clean, and a clean engine runs cooler, and more efficiently, also making it easier to find a leak. (Which probably wont happen). But REMEMBER leave the car running, when washing the engine so it can cope with the temp change, and avoid directly spraying electronics!

And i do ALL my own work on my car, So i know its geting done right! Dealerships have a creapy vibe, once you get your car NEVER go back LOL

Peace

twistylocs · June 2005

Are you going gung ho with the leather seating, moonroof, etc. at that price? Do you really want all those things or is it done for comparison?

A little bit of both. Leather's not an option on the Elantra, so we ruled it out. Cruise control is important to the hubby, but I'm indifferent. I really want a sunroof, but he could care less. So I had the salesperson run the numbers - buying the options individually versus buying them as part of a package, and $25,700 was what he came up with.

The Silver Bullet was a nice car, but the car had been in an accident and had a funny smell, so we ruled it out. I think that we've decided to go with the Elantra.

Autonomous, I really appreciate all of your feedback - I can't tell you how helpful you've been.

mdaffron · June 2005

So I had the salesperson run the numbers - buying the options individually versus buying them as part of a package, and $25,700 was what he came up with.

Why trust a salesman, who's going to want to get every nickel and dime from you that he can? Go to Mazda's website and "build" your car. It will give you a price and then let you know what dealers have the car the way you want it!

Meade

autonomous · June 2005

The Silver Bullet was a nice car, but the car had been in an accident and had a funny smell, so we ruled it out. I think that we've decided to go with the Elantra.

Interesting. Didn't your last test drive involve a black P5 in an accident and have a funny smell. Two cars, two accidents, two smelly interiors, talk about double whammy turn-off.

The Elantra is a great car which you're sure to love, plus you'll be getting it at a great price and with an astounding warranty. The only thing left is planning the ultimate trip like cruising the Fraser Valley or Vancouver Island. Best wishes!

twistylocs · June 2005

No, we went to see the black P5 but it had been sold earlier that day. That's when we drove the silver one I mentioned in the earlier post. Strangely enough, my husband got a call from the dealer saying that the black one was available again because the buyer's financing fell through.

I think we'll go look at the car just for curiosity's sake, but provided that our own financing comes through, we're going with the Elantra.

yamena17 · June 2005

:confuse: Hey there!

I have a 2002 MP5 (80 000km) and recently I've noticed this high pitched squeaking sound coming from the rear passenger tire. After looking at the rear brakes, I noticed that there has been alot of wear since the previous time they were looked at (which was not long ago at all). So I was wondering if anyone has had this problem (either sticky calibers or parking brake) and what was the solution(s). Like to try to fix the problem on my own.

Look forward to any suggestions!!!

Thanks!

iamz · June 2005

Unfortunately the solution is to replace the caliper. It's one of the few known problems with the P5. I had the shop try and repair and lubricate the one that was sticking on my car, but it has started sticking again.

autonomous · June 2005

solution is to replace the caliper ... had the shop try and repair and lubricate the one that was sticking on my car, but it has started sticking again.

Did you actually replace your calipers or your brake pads, Terry? At what point (mileage) did that happen? My service advisor warned me about sticky calipers on my 2002 P5 after seeing increased brake wear on the rear compared to the front brakes (the front brakes are supposed to be doing most of the stopping). He suggested that I have them lubricated which I had done last fall. No problem since.

iamz · June 2005

Well, it went down like this; I had just replaced the front pads myself with ceramic pads because they were due (around 70,000 miles on the car at the time). Checking out the rear pads, I found the outside pad of the driver's side was almost gone. Knowing of the sticky rear caliper issue on other P5s, I brought it in to have the shop see if they could fix it. Well, they ended up breaking the good one on the passenger side and ordered a rebuild kit for that caliper to fix it. The one that was sticking, they took apart and I assume lubed it up and put it back together. That one has since started dragging again so I will have them either rebuild or replace that one now.

autonomous · June 2005

It's been a week and no scoop on the Elantra or Black P5. Any news?
... we'll go look at the car (black P5) just for curiosity's sake, but provided that our own financing comes through, we're going with the Elantra.

autonomous · June 2005

... rear pads, I found the outside pad of the driver's side was almost gone. Knowing of the sticky rear caliper ... brought it in ... the shop ... ended up breaking the good one on the passenger side and ordered a rebuild kit ... The one that was sticking, they took apart and I assume lubed it up ... has since started dragging again so I will have them either rebuild or replace that one now.

Was the work done by a dealership or an independent? When the passenger side caliper was broken by the shop, did they pay for the replacement? Was it OEM? Are the ceramic pads worth the money in terms of long term durability?

Any tips on a fast and smooth ride while avoiding the use of brakes? If only those lights were synchoronized ...

02pro5 · June 2005

Hey guys,

I have a 2002 P5, and lately I've been having trouble with my horn. It seems to drop in tone when honking, but doesn't do it all the time... sometimes it sounds fine. The weird thing is that I already had the horn replaced for the same problem last year, and it worked fine for about 6 months. I find it hard to believe that two faulty horns have been installed in my car, and am thinking that there's a problem in the wiring to the horn (maybe a grounding problem?).

If anyone has any ideas, I'd greatly appreciate the help.
Thanks

mdaffron · June 2005

The weird thing is that I already had the horn replaced for the same problem last year, and it worked fine for about 6 months.

Mazda parts carry a 12 month/12,000-mile warranty.

Meade

iamz · June 2005

It was a Mazda dealer, but they are located in a small town near to where I work. It was a small enough dealership that they had never worked on the rear brakes of a P5 before (which is why they screwed up and broke the one caliper). As for who paid for the rebuild, they sold it to me at wholesale and didn't charge for labor. It was an OEM kit.

I'm not sure if ceramic pads are worth the money (never used them before). When I replaced the front pads, that was all that NAPA had in stock. One good thing about them is there is much less dusting on the front wheels which makes them stay clean longer and clean much easier.

booty84 · June 2005

i am cluless on cars but my fog lights (factory)on my 2002 p5 some times work but most of the time don't and it's not the lights itself or the switch it's probly a loos wire but where are the wire connections and i don't wanna take apart the dash anyone help?

moonman8 · June 2005

This is my first posting and I bought my 2003 Protege5 about 3 weeks ago with 48,000 miles on it. I have read about the clutch shudder during cold launches but this is not what I wish to talk about here. Even when the engine/clutch is WARM, when I let the clutch out going from 1st to 2nd gear, I hear a rattle. The car doesn't shudder or leap, it is a metallic rattle when the clutch engages (at the top of the clutch, just before fully letting it out). Does anyone have this problem or know what could cause it? I'm not 100% sure that it is actually the clutch, but I believe it is related. Any suggestions or things to check to further isolate the problem? Thanks.

denali_wjl · June 2005

I have a 2002 Protege5 with about 42K on it. Recently I begin to have
some problems with the sporty shift. My car has that zig-zag automatic
shift and also has the faked manual shift mode.

Now I have problem when I try to shift the stick out of P into R or D, or when
I try to shift the stick from D to R (basically move the stick around corners of
the zig-zag shifting track). Not wanting to use brute force, I usually
wait a few moments, then will be able to move the stick pass those corners,
but it's getting worse and I am worrying about transmission problems.

I am going to let the dealership look at it tomorrow but I wonder whether anybody
driving this car have similiar problem?

iamz · June 2005

You could try re-seating the fuse in the fuse block first. The fuse block is next to your left leg. If they both don't work on occasion, it probably is not the connections to the lamps themselves, and without a wire diagram, it might be hard to track down the bad connection between the lamps and switch. In any case, if they don't work once and awhile, you're not missing much, because as aimed from the factory on the 2002 P5, they are pretty much useless anyway.

02pro5 · June 2005

go to http://protege5.ugly.net
The site has the entire factory workshop manual for the protege/protege5 in pdf.
Regarding your fog light problem... I'm thinking maybe bad connection in the switch... go to section 09-18 on the website and it tells you how to inspect the switch itself

iamz · June 2005

Thanks for the link 02pro5.

autonomous · June 2005

The site has the entire factory workshop manual for the protege/protege5 in pdf.

What a terrific site! Thanks for posting this; it should help many owners better understand what is happening with their pro

dezaray · July 2005

A few times i have had water leaking from under the dash and it usually lands on my right foot as its on the accelerator. This has happened when we have had a downpour of rain mostly but it only comes in once i start driving the car. Does anyone know what this could be????

iamz · July 2005

Has your windsheild been replaced? BTW, what year P5?

tortoise_486 · July 2005

Greetings Everyone.

I recently bought a 2002 P5 with only 51,000 km on it. I absolutely love the way it drives and the fact I can stuff my MTB into it while only taking off 1 tire is fantastic. But... but.. If I have the windows down and the stereo off (which is rare) i've noticed a slight squeak coming from the right front end. The squeak sounds like birds chirping. i can't hear it under normal driving or all the time but appears most often when I am lurching in 1st or second gear at low speeds (for instance if I'm driving in 1st and let off of the gas). It is also detectable when engaging the clutch from a stop (either 1st or reverse). I've searched these boards and didn't find anything identical to this. Has anyone heard of this? I've read that the bushings can become squeaky and am hoping this is the problem.

Thanks in advance.

metalm · July 2005

I've had a leak under my dash as well but discovered that it was my AC unit pipes are clogged with leaves. It's expensive to clear them out so i just avoid using my AC now.

has anyone had any problems with 'creaking' in the steering wheel?
I have a 2002 P5 and my brother-in-law has a 2001 Protege, we both have developed this 'creaking' sound when the steering wheel is turned left or right. When the steering column is straight there is no creaking. My Bro-in-law likes to tinker and he hasn't been able to figure out the cause. It doesnt seem to affect the steering itself but it's bloody annoying.

Any ideas?

iamz · July 2005

You could also check your brake pad wear. If the pads are worn unevenly (on each side of the disk), your calipers could be sticking. The rear calipers are highly susceptible to this.

tortoise_486 · July 2005

Thanks for the message.

The pads & rotors were replaced in feb. 05. They have only ~4000 km on them. I'm thinking I'll take it to the dealer as I have to register it with Mazda Canada anyway.

tortoise_486 · July 2005

One more thing. This noise isn't present when first starting out. It's only after driving for a bit (and then slowing down) that it becomes audible.

metalm · July 2005

It sounds like a problem i had quite some time ago. Things sounded fine until you started to slow down, then i'd hear a squeaking / grinding sound. I ended up having to get my rotors completely replaced because they were warped. It was a manufacturer defect.Thankfully my car was still under warantee.
Maybe your rotors were replaced with a bunk ones in Feb. 05?

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