Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

mezeca · September 2005

Is this occurring on streets and roads? You have to make sure that your are on a flat and smooth road, because most streets are crowned, and this will cause any car to drift to the right. The only way to truly tell if the car is pulling, is to find a very flat road or lane. If it still does drift, then you obviously have a problem.

rcheneyjr · September 2005

I had a 2000 C230K Sport and it had a tendency to drift also. The dealer also told me the same thing, that it would drift because of the sport suspension and tires. I replaced the tires at 25K miles and it seemed better, though my wife still claimed it was a problem.

My 2005 Maxima with 255/45HR18 tires and sport suspension doesn't have the same problem. Must be the Germans...

dango1 · September 2005

I have tested many roads with my 2 other cars as well (neither of which have sport tires/suspensions) to be sure that the issue isn't the crown of the road and on those same roads the C230 drifts to the right.

dango1 · September 2005

Thanks for the reply. I'm feeling very confident I won't be replacing any of my cars with another Mercedes.

mbz66 · September 2005

Hi ALL,
Just an update to my previous note on my '04 C230 sport sedan.

The buzzing noise has now gone, after the dealer replaced the entire airbag module in the steering wheel.

The strong smelly odor from A/C vents has now changed flavor, after the dealer installed a new evaporator unit with biocide coating.

In the first two weeks, the air smells "chemical" with the fan blower ON, and A/C either ON or OFF. The dealer said it was expected, due to biocide coating in the evaporator, and would wear off after a week or two.

Now, the air vent blows "dirty sock" odor in the first 5 to 10 minutes every time the A/C in turned ON. If the A/C is turned OFF but fan blower remains ON, the air from the vents smells "rotten eggs" odors, for about 10 to 15 minutes. All we could do is to roll down the windows to purge the smelly air.

The dealer said they'd look at the issue again when I bring the car in.

Got the feeling my car being a "test case"

:sick:

lovemyjag · September 2005

It took 3x to correct it, but my dealership finally got it after having a teleconference call with the people in Germany. They were told it's an area that is hard to detect. So, on a chance, they took the suspected part out of one car and placed it in mine. I haven't had the problem recur and it's been three weeks now. My car is a 2005 C Class.

bogeyman1 · September 2005

Hello,
I recently purchased a 2002 C240 Sedan with only 19K miles. It has a lowered suspension with 18" custom wheels.

I think I like the car already, but, I can't figure out where this annoying screeching sound is coming from every time I turn the steering wheel to the right. It sounds like an opening door that needs oil.

I'm about to make my third trip to the dealer I purchased from less than two weeks ago. They seem to be lost on this as well. Or am I getting the run around?

Has anyone experienced to same noise?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. :confuse:

cru01jones · September 2005

I have this same issue with my C230 sedan and would like to know your outcome?

bbqdevil · September 2005

I have a 2002 C230 coupe with 56K miles on it that I recently had to take in for servicing because of a "consumer defective undervoltage" light. Turns out that the problem was a part in the engine "falling apart." That part is the part that holds the pulleys for both the alternator belt and the supercharger belt, and when it went, those belts got shredded, which in turn apparently caused some type of jolt which cracked the front end bushings. Cost of repair...$2K since the car is 6,000 miles out of warranty.

In addition, the service dept. is saying that the rear differential looks like it will need repair at some point in the near future, again, a $1,000 - 2,000 repair (with parts and labor).

Both of these seem very extreme for a supposedly "well made" car with only 56K miles on it. Can anyone weigh in and let me know if you have had similar problems? Also, I'm not the most mechanically inclined, so if I'm getting shafted and you can put the reason why into laymen's terms I can use when I go to the dealership, I'd greatly appreciate that.

Thanks.

tony24 · September 2005

Look into the following "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Law" to see if it might help with you in dealing with your rear differential leak. Please know that the leak will continue to occur. Yes, it will leak after dealer state that they have fixed the problem. My C240 rear differential continues to leak. The mileage does not matter. I only have 18,000 miles on my car and it is a 2002. Again, the mileage does not matter. These cars are poorly made and you will continue to have problems.

Of course, you will get other opinions but I felt that I needed to let you know about the rear differential issues. You can do your own research on the web to see what you find. Hopefully, everything does work out for you.

Regards

lpeterson · September 2005

I am also having noise problems with my 1998 C230 differential. We bought the car used and noise started shortly thereafter. I bet the sellers put a bananna in the diff to quite it down. Now I am wondering what yr/model used differentials will work in my car as I will start looking for a good used one. gear ratio is 3.27. Will any of the compressors differentials work OK ? Thanks for any info.

Larry

lpeterson · September 2005

I am trying to determine which differentials will work in my 1998 MB. Gear ratio is 3.27. Since I am hopeful of finding a good used one, can I expand my search to the Kompressor models as well. Mine is not a Kompressor and is an ABS type. Must I limit my search to 1997-1998 C230 only? I'd like to fine a lower mileage differential if possible. Thanks

Larry

commanchemoon · September 2005

i just purched c230 couple days ago with 86miles on and the same day car drifts sharply to right(car was delivered to me by dealer),took it to the dealer and said the missing camber bolts installed.still doses the same problem, took it to the different dealer did alingnent again but not solved the problem.is it common problem for c230? :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

tony24 · September 2005

This is a problem with these cars and it will only become a bigger and very expensive problem in the future.To answer your question, No this should not be a common problem. Now, Depending on your state you might be able to take the care back for a full refund if it has not been over three days or a specific mileage limitation.
Again, it depends on the your state. Your state might not have such a law please check. You might want to look into the lemon law or the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Law to see if anything can be done to assist you.

You should do your best to get out of this car now. Your problems are just starting. The decision is up to you so do your research asap.

Did you get the extended warranty on the car at the time of purchase?
If you did not and you find that you must keep the car, you should then speak to the dealer about getting a discount on the purchase of an extended warranty.
If you did get an extended warranty on the car then you probably saved yourself a lot of money on repair charges in the future after the factory warranty is over.

jrct9454 · September 2005

Good grief - the first thing is not to talk about invoking lemon laws. This is a simple problem, but you need to find a tech with a little bit of imagination to help solve it. Often, the staggered tire setup on the "sports pkg" causes these cars to drift more than they should - it is one of the reasons I avoid the sports package cars, but since you have one, the solution to your problem is to have the alignment tech crank in a little MORE CASTER on the side that is causing the drift. In this case, if it is pulling to the right, a bit of extra caster on the right side should solve the problem.

Too many techs think that if the car is within the factory spec on the alignment rack, then that's the end of the story. Our C240 with the standard suspension setup wanted to drift left, and the tech involved came up with the idea of a little extra caster on the left side - problem instantly solved.

[Caster is the angle of the suspension as viewed from the side, and measured as a deviation from the straight vertical - most cars have a little positive caster. More caster causes the car to resist changes in direction - less causes it to want to turn more easily].

The camber bolts were not "missing"; the cars are shipped from the factory one way, but any attempt to change the alignment after the factory setting means the use of the "bolt kit", which the tech installs before alignment can be modified. I don't know why they do it this way, but this has been MB's practice for years.

Finally, since the sports package cars have staggered tire sizes, you can only swap the front tires side-to-side, and then only assuming they are not a unidirectional tread design. IF you can swap them, that is always a first thing to do in chasing a pulling problem.

Get the dealer service advisor to sit with you and the alignment tech in the same place at the same time and discuss a strategy to solve the problem - and "they all drift to the right" is not the answer.

tony24 · September 2005

The solution you have described has been tried on my MB. The problem still comes back. You probably have a great tech or know a lot about cars but not everyone is that fortunate. It is great that you are able suggest how this person might go about fixing this problem.

It should be noted that I was pointing out some options this person might have since the car was bought recently. Again, you gave your option to a possible fix and that is great. The purpose is to try and assist each other in this forum. I hope that whomever has to make this decision can do so knowing that he or she has options.

Regards

jrct9454 · September 2005

....and my point is that there are things to do before getting lawyers involved. Once you've exhausted all of the reasonable alternatives, then and only then is it time to talk about buy-backs and compensation.

jwksc · September 2005

The dealer replaced the AC controls on the dash. They pulled the entire unit and replaced it with a new control panel. The original control panel had clear red and blue thermostat buttons which have been replaced with cheaper looking buttons. I have an extended warranty to the job was free for me. Expect to pay at least a $500.

billp8 · September 2005

...On my 2000 C230, I have been getting a "Magazine Empty" warning when trying to play the CD changer. I have checked and re-checked the magazine, switched CDs, made sure they were facing in the right direction--nothing. In the past, perhaps once or twice a year I would get a "No CD Changer" message, or some, but not all, of the discs would play. After removing and reinserting the magazine and restarting the car, the messages would clear up. I called TeleAid over the weekend, and the rep said it could be a "bad sensor." Even though I have an extended warranty, I am fairly certain the CD changer is not covered. I remember something I read about earlier which involved (IIRC) removing and replacing a fuse, and resetting the radio code. Is that an option, or is it time to visit the dealer? As I said, minor compared to previous posts, but I wanted to run this one past all of you first.

bhw77 · September 2005

Does anyone know how to reset Oil Monitor on C230 Kompressor?

mezeca · September 2005

It sounds like the CD changer isn't recognizing the the CD's. Most likely, you will have to replace the changer. Most dealers offer remanufactured units, which carry a warranty and save you $$$.
Hope this helps.

g17 · September 2005

Well my MB experience has been soured by numerous trips to the dealer for repairs. Earlier this year, my digital display malfunctioned, basically it was unreadable. It was replaced under warranty, @ a cost to the dealer of ~$1200, (2days shop time).
Prior to this it had problems with the sunroof, windshield wipers, oil sensor(2x) and maintaining alignment.

Well 1 month after the digital display went, the trans started acting up and shifting irregularly. I took it to the dealer, and after 2 days diagnosis it was determined that the car needed a transmission REPLACEMENT. In additon it needed a new radiator, trans cooler, torque converter and an oil sensor. :lemon:

3 weeks at the dealership and ~$6200 worth of warranty work later, the car is running OK. This will be my 1st and last MB. Thankfully it is a lease, and I will be able to upgrade to a Lexus next year. It's too bad for MB, since I'm the type of buyer they want to attract & retain. ie. Getting and entry level lux car first, and then returning for a larger, more $$$ model on subsequent leases/purchases.

Needless to say I will get an IS350 or GS300 instead of an E350 next year. Good bye Mercedes.

scottwfu · September 2005

Picked up my new C230 last week. I like as much as my past Cs except that when I pull out in traffic, it seems like it nearly stalls, like it's starting out in 2nd gear. Yes, I have the Summer/sport setting correct on the transmission, but it might be the gearing in the new 7-speed transmission. The motor has plenty of power so I don't thinkit is under-powered.
Anyone else encountered less than steady/smooth take-off in the 2006 C230? Like I said, it feels sort of like it does if you started out in second gear when you really have to jump on it when pulling out in traffic. I will probably take it in soon but was looking for experience of other new owners first. Any ideas? thanks

jrct9454 · October 2005

I have heard about the need for software updates for the new transmission, though this could just as easily be an ECU or electronic throttle issue - the dealer may already know of an update for this. I was at the local guy last month to have a minor issue dealt with, and while waiting, I saw a list of the TSBs out in August - there were a number involving the software for the new transmission.

manderson3 · October 2005

The hot water will not turn off I have cold air coming out of the center vent and hot air coming out side vents. Set to max cold can any help

mustu · October 2005

I just purchased a 2003 C230k and it seems like the accelerator takes a lot of effort to push down. To the extent that if I'm out driving for a couple of hours my leg hurts afterwards. Is this something that can be changed? I could be that I'm just not used to it. BTW, my other car is a 2002 VW Passat and I don't have any issue with the accelerator in it.

scottwfu · October 2005

Thanks for the info. I was by there today and asked the salesperson about the hesitation and she said she had heard it from others. I am going to check with the service dept. next week to find out about TSBs that may exist to fix it.
I just hope I'm not stuck having to have the hesitation. Sometimes it takesoff as you would expect, then, you pull across oncoming traffic and nearly get killed! This can't be considered acceptable characterstics of a M-B, even an inexpensive one can it? Other than that, the car seems great so far.

jrct9454 · October 2005

I'm working on my 14th MB since 1968, and every one of them has had a very heavy throttle feel. You either get used to it, or I guess sell the car, because there are no adjustments. After awhile, jumping back into something else [especially anything Japanese] feels like there is nothing attached to the pedal. Anyway, it is what it is....

mezeca · October 2005

All is not perfect in Lexiland either. Just look at all the ticked off people with the transmission hesitation problem. I hope your GS is better than the guy who's power steering pump failed at 1500 miles, and is now waiting for a backordered part out of Japan.

jtreeves · October 2005

Bogeyman1,

I'm curious about how your car was lowered. It sounds as though you are getting interference between either the tire or wheel and a suspension component, e.g., shock absorber or spring, or possibly the inside of the wheel wheel.

Often when cars are lowered, errors are made in the fitment of the springs, wheels, tires and body. This often occurs when +2 wheels are used which are much wider than the stock wheel width.

Please find out who did the work. Check out www.tirerack.com for advice on the proper fitment for the wheels and tires on your car. There are a number of measurements which must remain the same when swapping out stock wheels and tires for aftermarket combinations. Tire Rack should also have advice on the proper springs/shock absorber combo for lowering your car.

If the tires and wheels are within proper dimensions, the problem may be that the suspension was lowered a tad too far, thus causing some interference.

JR

marceg · October 2005

I believe pior to the '03 MY the C240 had the REST feature. I have an '03 C240 and found (by searching another discussion board) that it actually has the REST feature even though the button is not marked on the climate control. When I press and hold the "AC off" button for a few seconds, the REST feature starts. I believe it circulates air for 30 minutes. Not sure if this "hidden" feature was still available on '04 or later MY C240s, but worth a try.

I also have been having problems with a strange odor in the interior of my car. I only notice it after the vehicle has gotten wet (e.g., rain, car wash). It's there when I first open the car door...before even starting the car. It's an awful smell, reminds me of rotten onions and/or a natural gas type of smell.

I purchased the vehicle new, and only started having this problem after I had driven it for 1.5 - 2 years. I just visited my local dealership for the 6th time for this problem, still without a solution. They've supposedly cleaned the entire system out twice (I'm not exactly sure with what, but I had to wait for a few months until some new "equipment" arrived from Germany), replaced the cabin filter twice, and eventually replaced the evaporator in May of this year. Although replacing the evaporator initially eliminated about 95% of the odor, the smell has been slowly increasing is almost back to where it was prior to the evaporator being replaced. I've read there's a newly redesigned evaporator that is supposed to solve this problem. My dealership stated the one they installed in my car back in May was the redesigned one, but I'm not positive that it is.

I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem successfully resolved, and if so, what the fix was. If you recently (last couple of months) had your evaporator replaced, was it the redesigned one? (If you have the part number, please let me know what it is so I can compare it to my invoice.) Thanks.

g17 · October 2005

I think I'll take my chances.

I don't think there is anyone in the automotive industry that can make a straight-faced claim them Mercedes is more reliable the Lexus.....even MB execs, although they won't publicly admit it.

atrain · October 2005

I am considering buying a 2006 C230. After I build my own on MBUSA.com I come up with a MSRP of 36,010. I have great credit and can give some cash at purchase time.
Can I get Less than MSRP?

Thanks,
Atrain

150mphclub · October 2005

i was offered $1400 off msrp and kelly blue book for my trade for a C350.

pheimes · October 2005

I bought my brand new C230 K in May, so far I put on 4000 miles. I'm a very careful driver, yet I had to touch up the paint on my car twice already. First on the door, which I thought was just somebody banging their door against, but yesterday I had to touch up a spot on my hood.
I had 3 cars before this one and I had never had problems before. Is it just me or is the paint job on the C230 very "weak"?

jrct9454 · October 2005

There's nothing wrong with the paint. Just one moment behind a truck is all it takes to nick the paint on the front end, including the hood.

All water-based paints are more prone to chipping than the old oil-based enamels, but that is all the industry uses these days over concerns about air pollution at the factories. In my experience, the Japanese actually seem to have a few more problems than the Germans in this regard.

If you've got 4000 miles and have had to touch up only two spots, consider yourself lucky.

pheimes · October 2005

Thanks for the reply, that actually made me feel better. Here is another question: Once in a while my engine makes a weird "rumble" noise, it starts after I've driven the car for a while. It can last for quite a while, is this just Kompressor making that noise? Can you tell that I'm "mildly" obsessive compulsive about my "new" baby.

Oh, and what kind of winter tires do you guy's recommend? I live in the snow belt.

Thanks again!

billp8 · October 2005

MB of Hagerstown will do a "core exchange" with your original CD changer, and supply a remanufactured one with warranty. I would like to pick up the new unit (apparently smaller than mine, which, to my eyes, looks like an old VCR) on a Saturday (service dept not in). To pick up my new changer, I need to leave my old one. I have searched this and other websites to try to find removal instructions/diagrams for the CD changer--to no avail. One site had a "partial" pictorial guide. IIRC, there are just two cables to undo, and of course removal from the trunk-mounted bracket. Anyone out there have any other removal info/guidance/instructions?

waade7 · October 2005

The engineers put a governor on the brake pedal that reduces the effect of the accellerator. If you press both the brake and the accellerator at the same time the gas only has a small effect. If you're applying gas and still have the brake pressed then let go of the brake the car kind of leaps foreward. When the brake is touched while already in motion and the gas pedal is being applied the car seems like it is stalling. I've heard there is a USB plug in where a PC can be plugged in and if you have the program these settings can be changed or disabled.

scottwfu · October 2005

Thanks but I'm a little confused by your comments. I drive only with my right foot, using only the brake or accellerator at a time. Are you saying that, as I release the brake with my foot, if it is not fully backup, the accellerator will be only partially effective until the brake fully comes back up? That would make sense if that is what you mean, but I can't imagine the logic M-B used to add that governor.

jrct9454 · October 2005

It has to do with the logic in the traction control software. They don't want you on the brake and accelerator at the same time, because it confuses the software, which uses the ABS system and throttle adjustments to invoke the traction control when necessary.

mbcl55amg · October 2005

The engine warning light of my 2003 CL55 suddenly came on at 25000 miles. Teleaid tech said not to worry -- was probably due to "gas fumes resulting from gas cap not being tighted." Light was reset at scheduled maintenance but soon came back on again and has remained on for over 3000 miles. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do about this?

manderson3 · October 2005

The Center vent blows cold air The side vents blows hot air hot set to max cold but the hot water never turns off no one seems to know which computer to replace I dont really want to replace all 3 any ideas or suggestions.

tizer · October 2005

The check Engine Light on my 2001 C240 comes on and will stay on for about 400 miles...then "go out" when the car is started and stay off for about 100 miles when it will come back on..This pattern has gone on for several Thousand Miles. The car has 76,000 highway miles. My independant mechanic checked the codes and it reads.."unauthorized"...? I have searched this board and read that this problem could be a build up of carbon in the cylinders...but the car drives perfect. Any other thoughts before I go to the MB dealer .

Thanks for any input.

tizer · October 2005

The check Engine Light on my 2001 C240 comes on and will stay on for about 400 miles...then "go out" when the car is started and stay off for about 100 miles when it will come back on..This pattern has gone on for several Thousand Miles. The car has 76,000 highway miles. My independant mechanic checked the codes and it reads.."unauthorized"...? I have searched this board and read that this problem could be a build up of carbon in the cylinders...but the car drives perfect. Any other thoughts before I go to the MB dealer .

Thanks for any input.

wifes02c230k · October 2005

Background: My wife got a '02 C230 Sport Coupe new in the fall of '01. She absolutely loves the car, with one exception, which is not truely the fault of MB. At 6 months old the car got keyed

, getting EVERY body panel and at least one tail light lens. The car got a complete repaint from a very reputable shop dealing in high end cars in the Atlanta area: completely de-trimmed and such. Best repaint I've ever seen.
On to the problem: 6 months to a year after this, to start with on rainy days, a brake light would go out. The indicator would come on, then the brake light would start working again. Sometimes this would take a day, sometimes just a few minutes. After many trips to the dealer, all under warranty, the car got all updates they had for the wiring harness and I think anything else. Finally this last spring they kept the car for a week and seemed to get it. Of all things they claimed they believed the problem was too much di-electric grease in a connector. The tech said there was enough in it for the whole car. In any case, everything was great for about 6 months, after then the final service prior to the car going out of warranty (which it did before it showed back up), it started doing this again. Now the brake light will go out, stay out for a few minutes, then start working again. I've noticed this following her. It will be working the first few stops she makes, then go out, and then one or two brake applications down the road start working again. Of course the fault shows for her the entire drive, unless she restarts the car (which she's been known to do at a long light). This seems to sound like a loose connection, but does anyone know where I should start looking on this? Yes, I could take it back to the dealer (again), and probably should, but I just have an urge to find the likely connector and make sure the connection is tight and it isn't gooped full. Left brake light, in case it makes a difference, and yes, it is consitantly just that tail light.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.

jrct9454 · October 2005

I believe there is a Tech Bulletin out on this. I will need to go to our car, which is garaged 4 floors below us in the condo parking garage, to get the latest list. When I have it, I'll post the number, if it is the problem I think it is.

Before you go back to the dealer, let me see if I can help you point them in the right direction.

jrct9454 · October 2005

Well, it sounds like the dealer may already have done everything the factory has on the Tech list for this problem, so maybe it is a loose connection. I presume you've had the brake light covers off from inside the trunk and had a good look and feel for the connections there? At the other end, it could be a bad connector out of the brake pedal switch.

There are two bulletins, both relatively old, but worth mentioning to a dealer just in case - one relates to intermittent failures [Jan '03 P-82-10-217] and the other to continuous lighting of the brake lights [kind of the opposite of your situation, but worth a look anyway] [Oct '04 P-54-21-119].

That's all I could find; I'm also betting on a corroded or bad connection either in the engine compartment where the brake switch connects to the rest of the bus system, or in the taillight assembly itself. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

pepsivanilla · October 2005

If you are thinking about buying a new Mercedes product, first let me suggest two web sites in which to do some research;

1) Mercedes Benz Club of America
2) Mercedes Forum

At the Mercedes Club site you can read numerous post about poor Mercedes service by dealers and the resulting unhappy customers. This is at the official Mercedes Club Site where even the moderators are troubled by Mercedes quality.
Things are so bad the Mercedes Club worked to have a special envoy at Mercedes respond to and help club members with problems.

If you think problems like this can arise at any manufacturer, also be aware that in most cases you pay a premium for a Mercedes product. And the last four issues of the very influential auto magazine `CAR` out of the UK.. had editorial comments by it's own writers lamenting the serious quality problems and poor customer service by dealer and Mercedes Benz Corporate.

If you think a new car warranty will allay your fears, it is not unusual to make six, seven or more visits for the same problem. And if you think your savvy enough to get a regional service representative involved, in most case it won't happen. Mercedes Corporation distances themselves from their independent dealers, and denies/refuses to set up meetings between customers and regional service representatives.

Many defenders of Mercedes will site similar problems with other manufacturers. note that in Germany shareholders have revolted over the widely accepted notion that Mercedes is in deep trouble. Quality, corporate scandal, and fierce competition have all effected Mercedes negatively.

Before you by a Mercedes Benz product, do some research. You may find that it is prudent for you to purchase a Mercedes product, many people may find otherwise.

As far as the purchase of a used Mercedes vehicle, Consumer Reports discourages such purchases. Only until you understand the financial, short term and long term history of Mercedes Benz USA, and have a cursory knowledge of cars and their mechanical workings, would I contemplate the purchase of such a vehicle.

pepsivanilla · October 2005

There is a web site called Mercedesshop.com, that has a technical forum that is very good.

The web address didn't appear in the post I submitted above so do a google search for both sites that I have mentioned above.

Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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