Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

vivid1 · April 2008

doesnt sound right at all. Brake lines are run along the frame rail. I would get another opinion. Where is it leaking?

syvette · April 2008

The leak is up where the line disappears into the wheel well, and this, according to the service manager, is why it's such a problem. Even so, can it be that labor intensive to remove a gas tank. The dealer said that they had not encountered this problem before on a 230, so maybe the estimate reflects their uncertainty. But, really.

rowlandj · April 2008

You really should get another opinion for sure. Brake lines are run in channels in the frame and should be easily changed out. At worst they have to disconnect that line from the front distribution block and at the rear by the brake caliper.

That price sounds like enough time to remove and replace an engine. Just insane.

Good Luck.

hanspal · April 2008

Can someone tell me how to reset double wrench sign (srevice

on instrument cluster after service.

vivid1 · April 2008

you use the stearing wheel functions until it says service a or b due. then you push the odometer reset button and hold it till it asks you if you are sure you want to reset service. then you hold it again till it resets.

dmcdaniel · May 2008

Just bought a '04 MB C320 and the Up/Down and Back/Forward Electric Steering was working great. Other day when getting in the car the tilt decided to stay in the upward position but yet the Back/Forward still works. Called the dealership and they said it was more than likely the motor and would cost me $600 to fix it plus $150 to diagnose the problem. I'm a female on limited buget and this is quite an expense. Has anyone experience this problem and is it a less expensive repair than what i'm being told.

vivid1 · May 2008

Check the fuse. You can look up the location in the manual. that would be a 30 cent fix.

cambridgebenz · May 2008

The back of the driver's seat fell off. It looks like there were some type of clips on the top of the panel that are broken. How can I either get replacement clips or otherwise fix this without taking it to a dealership?

Thanks!

huntzinger · June 2008

Just wanted to pass this one along. This was on a 2002 C230K (Coupe), but probably has broader application.

The story starts with a problem from a couple of months ago, where I had a parking brake shoe stick and thus, drag and burn out the pad, so I had the car in for replacement parking brakes.

After said servicing, the parking brake seemed very "tight": there was zero freeplay in the parking brake pedal, and it started to engage the parking brakes very early in its stroke and I thought I could hear a not-fully-released pad dragging (argh!).

So naturally, I had the mechanic "loosen up" the cable on my next visit. Afterwords, everything was perfect for around a month, then one day, the parking brake pedal went to the floor and it was not holding - - it felt like a broken cable.

The mechanic re-serviced it for free, but the problem recurred a week later, so I finally took a look at it myself, based on the mechanic's previous description of how easy the fix was (ie, why he did it for free).

The design:

The parking brake cable system is a single cable from the driver back to a point that's in the middle of the car, under the back seat (and above the drive axle).

At this point, the single cable from up front effectively "splits" into two cables (one for each rear wheel). This is not a cable splice, but instead is an articulated hinged lever arrangement ... I should have take a photograph :-) To gain access, there's an access panel the size of a dessert plate in the middle of the back seat under the cushions... no need to go under the car or use a lift.

Key design attributes:

#1: there's an adjustment nut here with which you can alter the overall cable length for slack, etc.

#2: the two rear cables are merely "hooked" into a floater bar that's on this hinged lever arrangement, so if you make the adjustment too loose, one of the cables can move over and pop out (mine was passenger's side), which then makes it feel like you've broken the parking brake cable.

The fix:

(a) remove the back seat and gain access through the top hatch.

(b) find this 'hinged lever' cable arrangement and remove the nut all the way off the bolt.

(c) Go to your junk bin and find a big old washer (or two) that's around a 1" outside diameter that will fit over the bolt shaft.

(d) Put one or two of these washers on, then put the bolt back on and adjust the tension however you like.

Result:

Having a washer on the bolt shaft extends it out (like a flange) to block the "open" end of the slots where the rear cables hook in. Thus blocked, the rear cables can't move over to the end of the slot where they could fall out.

-hh

dho1 · June 2008

I am considering to buy a used 2004 C240 4Matic wagon. 41000KM. This car does not have much warranty time left. Can anyone tell me how reliable is this car? The body looks like new. Very clean car. I test drove it and it has a lot of power after pick up. perform well at corner and brake. This car seems has been taken care quite well. Very clean engine. Asking price is CND$23000.00 in Toronto/Canada. Seems no any damage. Does it sound like reasonable price?

Danny

j_rohas · June 2008

Someone knows the difference between the ignition coils Nrs. 0001587503 and 0001587003.
My car (Mercedes C230 '97, engine Nr. 111.974) uses the Nr. 0001587503, but can someone say me if I can use the Nr. 0001587003 . or there is negative effect if I change it?

felly · June 2008

I'm going on my second A service for a C230. Any idea how much it will cost me? Thanks in advance

vivid1 · June 2008

Call up the dealer and get a quote. Each place will be different. My c240 service A and B was free up until 50k miles.

jrct9454 · June 2008

Well, the strict answer is that it depends too much on where you're located, and the scope of the work.

If it helps any, I just completed the first A-svc on our '08 C300 Lux - $170 without the tire rotation [I do all the tire rotations myself at home], at MB-Portland Oregon. From other sources, I deduce that I apparently got a bargain - others are quoting $230-$350 from urban locations as varied as Houston, Phoenix, and points in between. The W204 A-svc consists of an oil and filter change, and the usual misc checks of brakes, fluids, etc.

The variance between the lowest number and the highest number for the same work seems to be 100% - depending on where you are, labor costs, and just how much the local dealer thinks he can get away with.

felly · June 2008

Thanks for the quick response. I'm located in Iowa. I've heard different quotes from $200-$350. Thanks for the heads up on the tire rotation. If I can skip that to save some cash I'll do it.

fitness · July 2008

fitness · July 2008

I have an '01 C240 with the glove box mounted CD player. I ejected the magazine while a CD was playing and now it will not operate. It will display either NO MAGAZINE or that a particular slot has no CD.
Any suggestions or do I have to replace it?
Also, I am getting a lot of drive belt squeaking which goes away briefly when I use a belt dressing. I have heard that overuse of the spray can do more harm than good. My dealer told me this model does not have a water pump problem and that the belts are probably glazed. I am coming up on the B service (70,000 miles).
Anyone with similar experience?
Thanks.

macs01 · August 2008

Hello,
First, congratulations on this great site! Second, my question:
Do I need to replace a complete alternator unit for a 2003 Mercedes Benz C240 Sedan (4 cylinder manual) if I get an "Alternator Bat" message on the dashboard? We have already checked and both the battery and alternator are working as they should. The certified mechanic that did the tests told us that we will have to change the whole unit, that the piece that is not working, cannot be changed individually (an electronic monitoring device I suppose). Is there any way I could just change that piece and not have to install a new unit like the mechanic says? Many thanks in advance for your help,
regards,
Macs

jrct9454 · August 2008

Don't know the answer, but will observe that your C240 is a 2.6 liter V6, not a 4 cyl.

Suggest taking your question to MBCA.org [the Mercedes Club] if you don't get a response within a reasonable time. I suspect a wiring or other connectivity issue, but I can also think of a half dozen possible causes....

macs01 · August 2008

It is a 6 cylinder, you are correct, it was a mistype on my part. Thanks for the help. I'll check out the Mercedes club and see if they have heard of this issue. Many thanks again,
regards,
Macs

rellware · August 2008

I own a 2003 Mercedes C230 Kompressor, I've been having problems w/ my veh since I purchased it. My veh has 122 k miles. I've paid thousands of dollars in reprs. Warranty ran out @ 50k miles. From the first months of ownership I complained about the reving type jumping of the vehicle & it was expln'd that the veh was idling properly & that's just the way it sounds & feels. I just recently found out by reading the shops copy of documentation that it was noted my veh surges while stopped or in prk. I have had just about every sensor, adjuster & hoses replaced & still no luck. This is not what i expected from a mercedes. Pls help. melon law contacted too late.

Optional Information:
2003 Mercedes-Benz C230 Kompressor 1.8 Liter

Already Tried:
Everything, several diagnosis that differ for the most part. (2)Mercedes Prts Mgrs who discouraged me from purchasing a mass airflow sensor and "another" engine harness. Both of which stated some of the prts i was claimimg to have had repaired were prts uncommonly needed for such an early model veh & for a Mercedes none the less. Both Prts Mgrs went over to the Service Dept, checked my veh history & had a lengthly conversation w/ the Mercedes Service Mgr. I was promised a follow up by the fellow who oversees the Mercedes Service Dept but it's been 5 weeks & no f/u. I had my veh in yesterday & the f/u conversation was supposed to take place then but of course I was told Bob Walls just left? I'm not sure why he never called me yesterday or the days prior to yesterday. I purchased the mercedes expecting exceptional quality. I figured i was getting what mercedes promises " A Great Quality Veh." What i have rec'd is far from it. I've kept all receipts & service records if needed. My vehicle repair histories extensive.

qbrozen · August 2008

So... in short: your vehicle's revs surge while sitting still. Is this correct?
How much of a variation are we talking about? Does it jump from 750 at idle to 1000? Or is it more significant? Any other problems or repercussions of this problem?

rellware · August 2008

Good morning qbrozen, thank u for responding.
Yes i was unaware of what it was called (surging) until Tues Aug. 19th after reading the dealerships copy of the paperwrk. (This was not noted on my copy???). I have reported this problem for (3)yrs now by describing what it sounds & feels like. I even noted how the lgts tend to dim & how the ac or heater power dulls when this happens but for the past 3 yrs i was told by the dlrshp that nothing happened when they test drove the veh. I disputed their findings & confirmed what was happening just by starting the vhe in frt of them. It sounds like a put put once it's running for a while, on the start up it sounds like it's taking deep breaths gasping for air & after going over 45 for any length of time it gets worse. I haven't driven on the hwy for over a year because it will shutr off once i'm back to drvg thru the city & have @ times found myself putting the veh in neutral when stopped & lightly rev'g the gas so no-one hears it. But if your in the veh its putts causing the occupants to slightly bounce fwd & back. Let me not forget the smell they claimed they never smelled before my warranty ran. rgt after my warranty ran it was checked for the smell & wrk was done @ my expense even though it was an ongoing problem.

The dlrshp @ one point had my veh longer than I had it avail to me to drive
I've paid just as much in repr costs as i have for the veh itself. I've never had a veh give me problems like this, none the less straight out the gate. Prev vehs owned: Lincoln Town car, Chevy cavalier, Corvette and a Chrysler Sebring.

qbrozen · August 2008

what kind of smell? is it possibly a bit like rotten eggs? If so, sounds like you may have a bad catalytic converter.

So its an '03 with 122k miles and you've been complaining about it for 3 years. But you said you've had problems since it was new? Or did you buy it used? If used, how many miles did it have when you bought it? Was this the same problem the whole time? Was it not noticeable on the test drive prior to purchase?

I'm just trying to narrow it down a bit more. At first, it sounded like a vacuum leak, but then you mentioned the dimming lights, which is an indication that the engine is trying to stall. So right now, its sounding like a catalytic converter. But if that went bad very early on, then there is something else wrong that caused the cat to fail.

You need to tell us all of the repairs that have been done thus far to try to correct the problem.

rellware · August 2008

I purchased my Mercedes 2003 C230 Kompressor June 28th 2003 w/ 39 miles on it:
First A service & compaint reported:
09-18-03 6k miles Door seal coming off & hesitation/banging out of park &idiling too high
Mind you i did not know the proper terminology of what was happening I only descrbed to the Service Dept what I was experiencing & they gave it a description/name.
MB advised veh was operating as designed.
3-24-04 18k miles. Service A. Also service reset was not performed during last service.
9-2-04 29k miles. Service B
11-9-04 34k miles. Exterior Bulb Failure.
MB determined electrical problem.
2-10-05 41k miles Service A & hdlamp repair, taillamp bulb & wipers . Brakes & rotors.
4-21-05 46k bulbs r/f hdlamp & brake pad warning

I believe this service write up is **key** because it was handwritten on a carbon copy form real small, not on the normal computer generated print out & only given because i req'd my receipt. The Tech also failed to write my cars actual mileage on the date of service. But as you can see it was w/i the warranty time period!!!!
***05-07-05 Check engine lgt on (warranty) no note on what was wrong or done to fix the problem & my reason for bringing the veh in was not listed either***

6-1-05 49k cracked strut bushings repr'd
7-19-05 Coolant warning lamp 54k miles slightly low no leaks
Brake warning lgt on, MB Service Dept recommended new brakes, I then advised them that i had just had new brakes put on in May???
They replaced the rgt frt brake wire sensor & reg service a was performed
7-20-05 veh returned for the smell & servuce counter reset
MB replaced leaking oil filter housing
Veh has gone in several times for sunroof problems and bulb problems around the outside of the veh.
MB repr'd bulb problems several times w/ cable & wiring harness installations. MB replaced wind deflector arm, linkage & repaired sliding roof elect function. Prkg brake peddle & plastic on bthe rgt sd under the passenger seat fell off.
8-18-05 Low oil indicator & burning smell reported 57k
MB returned the veh stating no fault found/no leaking & oil level was correct
10-12-05 62k Check engine lgt on
MB repaired/replaced fuel pump fuel filter & advised if check engine lgt comes back on veh will need a mass air flow sensor, rec'd credit for bulb wrk needed again which should have been cov'd under orig warranty.
11-7-05 Car running poorly, ?'d spark plug issue. 63k
MB found Crankcase breather hose split, replaced hose, reset misfire & adaptation codes. Completed service B
12-20-05 66k. Complaint Running poorly.
MB stated same was due to a sticking valve. Replaced all exhaust valve springs & valve springs.
1-02-06 Check engine lgt on & off stutters wants to stop 67k miles.
MB states compression leakage, R&R cylinder head leakage, gasket cover, expansion pl & seal rings
4-22-06 75k miles A service
6-9-06 Check engine lgt on 79k miles.
MB replaced faulty oxygen sensor & sender unit
8-14-06 84k miles. Check engine lgt on & burnt oil smell complaint.
MB replaced 02 sensor after catalytic convertor & sender unit. MB could not duplicate burnt oil smell ?
10-5-06 89k miles. Engine lgt was on again, along w/ the oil lgt & brake lgts.
MB replaced the coolant sensor, cleared codes & replaced the coolant fitting @ the reservoir. Tech advised oil level was ok & adjusted level from 3/4's. MB noted brakes were new & reset brake warning indicator.
6-18-07 107k miles. Same complaint rough ride/idle
MB replaced #1 Ignition coil & suggested other coils soon.

7-03-07 101k miles. Same complaint engine running rough.
MB replaced coolant temp & thermostat sensors & suggested possible add'l coil replacement.
2-20-08 118k miles. Same Complaint check engine lgt, burning smell & puttering.
MB noted camshaft adjuster leak, oil in engine harness, belts & mass airflow sensor needed.
Caring for my mom who recently passed away from Pancreatic Cancer & was unable to have prts ordered & repaired ubntil June/July wromg prts were given on the first trip.
Rec'd (2) other diagnosis that differed from Dealerships noted in first post.
8-19-08 recall wrk was performed,& meeting w/ MB Rep that oversees the shop who never showed as previously discussed.
***Pls also note that I copied another message written on the dealers copy of my wrk orderr Tues noting Air inlet pipe turn/ some current codes***
This was not written on my customer copy & while speaking w/ the prts dept the following day to ? the cost of the prts & this procedure they stated that the air inlet pipe could not be turned....

Outside repairs completed:
11-13-04 prt# 203-670-60-12 SOPBU SIDE W
3-28-06 brakes prt#003-420-59-20
10-5-06 frt & rear pads replaced
4-6-07 Oil change & Coolant temp sensor

5-21-07 Spark plugs
5-24-07 prt#000-159-49-42 SOM111
11-7-07 oil change
6-12-08 Inspection lamp bulb replacement & wheel lug bolt
7-1-08 Serpentine/fan belt, seals & (2) camshaft adjusters along w/ reg service/oil change & 2 bulb replacements.
All Service A & B operations have always been completed on time,.
Tires always purchased thru Just Tirws w/ warranty throughout my vehs life.

***PLS NOTE I HAVE MORE RECEIPTS BUT THERE OUT IN THE CAR****

boomchek · August 2008

Wow. It sounds like your dealer is not very cooperative about all of these issues. I'd talk with somebody from MB USA head office, and discuss aboiut the times you brought it in for work, and they didn't log in what the problem or solution was.

I'm surprised you're still holding on to the car after all of this.

I'd sell the car as it's out of warranty, and it's going to start costing you even more. Cut your losses, stop chasing after incompetent service advisors and managers who can't figure out your problem, and get yourself some thing reliable.

rellware · August 2008

Yes, I wish. My car has sentimental value that I'm trying to grow up & get past. ( I purchased this veh for my Mom who recently passed & hated to drive. It's funny we both hated/hate to drive but used to travel many miles together. Not only did we carpool but hung out together.My car is paid off & i was trying to avoid having to start making pymts again. W/o my mom I have picked up her bills along w/ mine until I can sell her home I will not be in a position to purchase any costly items.
And did I mention I lost my full time job while caring for my mom & am currently only wrk'g my part time job. Not to pour it on I have to pay a sister to keep an eye on my older brother who is MR but very street smart but he has epilepsy (uncontrolled drop falls) which we do not allow him to bath, cook or hangout on his own anymore.

GOD WILL PROVIDE
Thank you guys for trying to help
I'm gonna keep researching this

boomchek · August 2008

All I can say is good luck.

Keeping a car for sentimental value might make sense if that car is not going to make you bankrupt.

I had a similiar situation with my 01 C2450 where it was costing me a ton of money to keep it on the road. Small things kept breaking, and I finally got rid of it. The repairs and problems are not going to stop. They'll sto only if you replace the car or park it and not drive it.

The sooner you get rid of it the better you'll feel about it, trust me.

rzen · August 2008

It does sound related to the catalytic converter. Either the converter itself being bad or excessive fuel through the cylinders into the converter. The excessive fuel would would cause extra catalytic action causing a back pressure essentially choking the engine.

If it gets worse as you drive, I'd guess excessive fuel...possibly a vacuum valve with a leaking diaphragm in the fuel system.

If the 'surging' remains relatively constant, I'd guess the catalytic converter itself.

Either one would cause the emissions to be off. Can you get an emissions check to see what that might point to?

qbrozen · August 2008

This just gets more and more complicated.

I'm with boomcheck. It looks like you've been the victim of a pisspoor service department.

For vacuum and/or cat problems, there are a couple of things you could do yourself if you are so inclined. First thing is the cat. If it is clogged and causing problems, it will typically get very hot very fast. If left running for a while, it may even GLOW red. This is one thing to keep an eye on. At the same time, you can check the exhaust coming out the tailpipe. Make sure it really is coming out in full force. I know, its not easy to tell or even fullproof, but worth a check. As for vacuum leaks, ye ole method is to take a can of starting fluid and spray a little bit at a time around the various seals and hoses. If the engine races quickly and briefly, you've found your leak. Just make sure the engine isn't too hot when doing this. We don't want any ignition of the starting fluid outside the engine should you happen to spray it on something too hot (like the exhaust manifold).

rellware · August 2008

Thanks for responding rzen
My veh just passed an emission test in late June (req'd in PA during inspectn)
I better look into the catalytic convertor as suggested
Thanks a bunch

jcbaby · August 2008

MY HUSBAND HAS DECIDED TO CHANGE MY OIL (C-240, 2002), BUY THE OIL FILTER AND OIL. DO WE NEED ANYTHING ELSE AND HOW DO WE RESET THE MESSAGE?

boomchek · August 2008

There's no way that I am aware of on restting the chage oil message unless you have a special plug in computer that Mercedes or some mechanics have.

jcbaby · August 2008

In order to change the oil, will he need a "topsider" to suck up the oil?

boomchek · August 2008

Not sure about that. What I do know is that the electronic sensor that measures the oil level is very sensitive whether you're above or below the recommended level, so personally I'd take that oil you bought, and take it to a MB mechanic, and pay them $40-$50 to do it properly.

jcbaby · August 2008

I'm getting this humming sound - more of a squeal noise....don't know where it's coming from. But, when I tap the brake petal it goes away. Do you know what this might be?

boomchek · August 2008

No idea. Could be anything. Another good reason to get a reputable mechanic to do basic maintenance, he can usually tell you what the weird noises are.

rowlandj · August 2008

A topsider to remove the oil from above is recommended. Also the filter is a cartridge type that is also accessed from above.

For removing the oil there is a dipstick looking tube that has a cap for the extractor tube to be fed in. For the filter there's a black plastic cap at the top front of the engine that you remove. The new cartridge comes with o-rings that you change as well.

Pela makes a good oil extractor and marine shops often carry them as it's a common way to change oil on marine engines.

The reset of the reminder is covered in the owners manual.

Don't forget to use an MB approved oil such as Mobil1 European 0w-40.

jcf4 · August 2008

Will one of those dent removal kits work? About 1 inch long.

caylan · September 2008

Hi, new to the Merccedes family with my '08 C300.
Heard that removal can be from Mitvac suction or similar device & top side filter.
Coming from BMW that was an attraction for sure.
Are there any documented instructions any1 can provide a link to pls?

Thanks

rowlandj · September 2008

Just try a yahoo search for "Mercedes C oil change diy" you will likely find what you are looking for. There are some DIY sites out there with detailed instructions and photos. For instance. mbworld.org.

tpoirier · October 2008

Help! Each time I start car HOT/Cold there is a constant clicking coming from dasboard that lasts approx. 30 seconds and then stops. Start car hear clicking
shut off with in 30 seconds still clicks. Air or fan is off.
Terry

boomchek · October 2008

I had the exact same problem in my car (01 C240).

From what I understand it's the upper dash vent solenoid (little electric device that opens or closes the vents inside the dash, since they are electronically controlled).

It's not going to affect drivablility but in winter time you might see ice forming inside on the windshield after it's been parked overnight, depending on the climate you live in.

I never bothered getting it fixed as I think it's about $1000, and I drove with it for about 10 months, before trading in the car.

Good luck

lovenwork · November 2008

Last year I bought a "97 MB C280 for my daughter's first car and it runs perfectly, EXCEPT, at random times it just won't start. This condition will last from several hours to several days. I have had it towed to 3 separate Mercedes mechanics, inc. the local MB dealership and no one can figure it out. The dealer replaced a wire, saying it was getting too hot. Then they said I needed a new key but that hasn't made a difference. Another mechanic replaced the main computer. That hasn't worked. I tried squirting WD40 in the ignition key hole cause someone told me they clog up. That hasn't worked. The MB dealer says the car thinks it is being stolen, but they haven't a solution. I'm going nutswith this car. Help please!

trellsworth · November 2008

I have a 2000 C230 MB, runs great, THe past few months When I turn my lights on, at times the right rear tail light will not come on, usually after I drive for a long distance it will come on (dashboard warning light comes on when it is not working and then goes off when it works) I've had the bulb changed a couple of times. Bulb not blown. I guess the bulb is not making good connection in socket, or somewhere else, then after drive a while over enough bumps it connects?? really Can't complain since car runs great. Only had to have front flex disc changed last yr due to typical wear and tear. Has 136,000 miles on car. Know how to fix this?
thanks :confuse:

trellsworth · November 2008

I agree, not MB fault if tires wear out fast. I own 2000 c230K sedan put goodyear tires on in 2005, have 45,000 miles on these tires. (of course I get regular tire rotations, keep MB suggested tire pressure) now nov 2008 and have 4/10 tire tread left will put new tires on. I think it is how you take care of tires. (driving, rotations,alignment etc) and how many miles they will last, rather than it being MB car fault.

kufu · December 2008

Same thing happened to me last year. Fix is very simple. Your right tail light does not have good connection in socket. Pull out the bulb and with small scrudriver, bend a bit end of the socket. It worked for me.

gotgt3 · January 2009

If you don't mind me asking how did you trade it in after 10 months - I was under the impression trade-ins are only possible on fully paid off cars? Is that the link I'm missing?

boomchek · January 2009

Actually I drove it for 10 months with the broken dash solenoid before trading it in.

That's the link you missed.

I actually had it longer than that, about 21 months. But yes you are correct, I did owe money on it. However I sell cars for a living, so I bought it at a wholesale price, and didn't lose too much. Overall I did lose money on it.

You can trade in vehicles that are not paid off, it depends on what it's worth vs what you owe on it.

If you have a car worth $10k, but you owe only $5k on the loan, you can trade it in, and get $5k equity (cahs, downpayment).

If your car is worth $10k but you owe $15k on it, you can still trade in in some cases, or sell it, but you have to pony up the remainder $5k to ocver the balance.

francofle · January 2009

I am new to Mercedes Benz and I'm actually trying to fix a 2001 C240 that doesn't start. I need to replace the Neutral Switch and I can't find it. Please help!!!

The car is not starting because the car is not recognizing that the shift knob is in "P". Let me explain more: In the little screen in the dash, where the gear position is indicated, nothing is selected. After moving the shift knob over all the different gears (P,R,N,D) nothing was indicated in the screen in the dash. It is my belief that there is something wrong with the part that tells the computer in which gear the transmission is in, which I have been told is the Neutral Switch.

Your comments, ideas and help will be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!!!!

:confuse: :sick:

Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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