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Suzuki Esteem Wagon

24

Comments

  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    I just posted a response to your question in your newly created Suzuki Esteem vs Ford Escort wagons discussion. Others here can also post their responses there. Happy shopping!

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • sanjaydansanjaydan Member Posts: 2
    Siriuslite31:
    I have a 1999-2000 Baleno S/W, and I had only one similar problem. While driving, the car would idle extremely rough at times, and after about two weeks the problem got bigger. After idling rough for about 15-20 seconds the Check Engine light comes on and suddenly the car works well until the light comes off and I would get a slight rough idle again. The car eventually started to stall (shut off). I checked a few local technicians and no one could have fixed it.
    However I met someone with the same model car and when I explained the problem to him he said it was the CamShaft Position Sensor going Bad. I paid about US$140 for one and installed myself. I never had any major problems with the car again.

    Sanjay
  • sanjaydansanjaydan Member Posts: 2
    Anyone,
    I am looking for a 1999-2000 Suzuki Esteem S/W 1.6L G16B Service Repair Manual.
    If anyone knows where I could buy one (new or used) please email me at sanjay.dan@scotiabank.com

    Thanks
    Sanjay
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    I have driven an esteem since 1996 and put over 150.000 miles on the car. It has been a good car for very little money. As long as you do not expect more from it than what it is you will like the car. Mine is basic transportation. It starts and goes every time and gets you from a to b with very little gas used. as for problems. over the years I have come to believe that the brake disks are not a good,be it the small size of the disk or for what ever reason they warp easily. As for check engine lights mine has come on twice because of the gas cap. seems if it isn't tight enough it causes the system to react. Rough idle has happened because of a bad distributor cap, 7 dollars to fix, and I have had one of the headlights to overheat and melt the plug. The shop blamed the light bulb for the meltdown. I have also just started to hear the rear struts rattle a bit. I have the 1.6 engine and it has started the piston slap on ice cold mornings as others have talked about. I can not complain after 150000 miles. Other than that not much in the way of problems. a small thing to keep your Suzuki's windows going is to spray silicone lube on the window seals to keep the window rolling up and down freely.
  • ken1967ken1967 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 sedan and it runs very good. The check engine light came on and when I had it checked it said bad emissions leak. I have taken it to the shop and they replaced the gas cap but it still came on. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • mrdmrd Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 suzuki esteem with a 1.6 engine with 146,000 miles, check engine light came on , car started bogging, lost power on acceleration especially going up hill. Feels like its choking when you give it gas, do you think this is the O2 sensor? If anyone could help we'd appreciate it. TIA
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Sounds like either a bad EGR valve or a clogged catalytic converter. See if there is a healthy amount of air coming out of the exhaust pipe, especially when the engine is revved. If not, the converter is plugged up and causing the sudden loss of engine power. The O2 sensor itself would not cause loss of power. It usually just causes bad gas mileage or a slightly rough running engine.
  • mrdmrd Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. So far i tryed replacing the p.c.v valve and the gas filter , and it still stumbles on acceleration. I also smell a rotten egg odor witch very well could be the catalytic converter. I'll run your test and get back to you , As always i'm troubleshooting the cheaper things first trying not to get deep out of pocket on this one. Thanks again.
  • jtoozejtooze Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Esteem Sedan with 180,000 kms and just this morning the Check Engine light cam on. The car is running super though, how concerned should I be and what are the most common ailment for this condition?
  • bluedog1bluedog1 Member Posts: 1
    After much research (including reading all of the postings on this forum....thank you to everyone) we just purchased a 2000 Esteem GL Wagon with 148,000 km. The car looked and sounded great when we picked it up but in less than 24 hours the dreaded "Check Engine" light went on and has stayed on. I am planning to head back to the dealer but it sounds like this is a problem many people have that there is no easy solution to. I even overheard a salesman talking to someone on the phone at the dealership telling them to make sure their gas cap was tightened up...now I know what they were talking about. The car sounds fine but it is a bit unnerving to be driving around with the "Check engine" warning staring you in the face. Adding to the mystery is that the car passed a legally required emmissions test with flying colours prior to our taking delivery, so it would seem like the sensors related to the emissions system are OK. Any help or hints would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I would take the gas cap off and reinstall it, making sure that it clicks 3 times. On most newer cars, the check engine light will turn itself off within the next few days if the gas cap was the problem. Some cars require the dealer to reset the light before it will turn off. I would take it to the dealer regardless since you just bought it and the light shouldn't be on. You can rest easy somewhat in that the light staying on is better then if it was blinking. When the light stays on, that indicates an emission problem. When the light blinks, that indicates a much more serious problem that requires attention immediately.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    The most common ailments for the check engine light are the oxygen sensor, a loose or cracked gas cap, and the EGR valve. You shouldn't be too concerned about it unless your engine performance or fuel economy has been affected.
  • brianoliverbrianoliver Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. I saw your reply and I tried checking the exhaust flow. The output seemed to be reduced when the engine was reeved over when it was idling. Would this be the Converter or the EGR valve?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    If your car refuses to go over a certain speed (usually 45 mph or so), feels badly strained, and the exhaust flow out of the tailpipe doesn't increase when the engine is revved, you have a plugged up catalytic converter. Since your flow actually reduced when the engine was revved, I'd say its the converter. These things are made out of a honeycomb ceramic that is very fragile. They degrade with age and mileage. If you ever had a loud rattling coming from under the car and then one day it just stopped, that was a piece of the ceramic that broke off and has now jammed itself in a direction that restricts the exhaust flow. Or if the engine has ever been run hot, the exhaust can actually melt the ceramic, thus restricting the number of holes the exhaust can flow out through. I've had both problems happen to me on two different cars.

    The EGR valve normally just causes bad running conditions in general. The car may stall, stumble, idle rough, and acceleration is reduced, but it won't keep you from being able to achieve highway speeds. With a bad converter, the engine runs smoothly, it just feels like it has no power because it can't exhale.
  • glenn98glenn98 Member Posts: 2
    I have spent almost $2000 with PCM problems. My first PCM died in the summer and then 5 months later that PCM died. While getting the PCM replaced the last time the mechanic had to try two PCMs to find one that worked! Is this a typical problem? How likely is it that the car is causing the PCMs to fail?
  • glenn98glenn98 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the relay for the turn signals are located on a 1998 Esteem? I tried to use the turn signals but they would just stay on and not blink. I get the same thing with the hazard switch. I looked at all the lights and they do come on.
  • nervebreakernervebreaker Member Posts: 1
    according to wiring diagram book it's to left of steering wheel under dash the bigger far left one for hazard / turn signal
  • devinedevine Member Posts: 1
    Does your Esteem burn oil? I love my 2001 Esteem, I bought it used with 74,500 miles on it, one month ago. At the time I purchased it, the oil was full. I have driven about 1,000 miles in that time, mostly running all over town every day and I have used two quarts of oil. I am concerned that this may signal a problem with the engine, but a friend of mine told me that because the engine is small and has to work at a higher rpm, it may burn more oil than a bigger engine would. I'm not a mechanic, so any information would help. Thanks.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    No your car should use no oil between oil changes. Our Esteem has 267000 miles on it. It still uses no oil between 3000 mile changes. The only oil related problem we have had is a small leak at the oil sending unit but that is just a dime sized drop of oil on the driveway every now and again. I hope you got a warranty. Never buy a car with out one. Sounds as if this car did not have it's oil changed very often. Suzuki's are not known for oil usage. Check to see if it is leaking. Is there oil under the car and on the driveway? A quart every 500 miles is high and if it is leaking it should really show.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Disagree since the loss ratio on the average extended warranty is only about 25%, and that's with cars without the longer factory warranty that Suzuki has. Having a lemon isn't like letting your house burn or getting cancer--it's a nasty but not life wrecking event. If a commercial insurer offered a product that gave you a quarter back on every dollar the president would be in jail.

    Some insurers offer mechanical policies that while still expensive are at least regulated and offer major coverage for much less $$$.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    To buy a well used car with out some sort of warranty from the seller is foolish. Look at this poor person who just bought this car a month a go and the engine is going to have some serious work done on it if not replaced entirely :sick: . After living thru several horror stories with American cars I would never ever buy a car without a warranty. The last new car I bought, part of the deal was that the dealer thru in an extended full bumper to bumper 100.000 mile warranty . I think that was about 900 bucks. I didn't have to pay extra for it but I would in a heart beat if I had to.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    especially given the abuse that some leasers inflict.
  • zuki42zukizuki42zuki Member Posts: 2
    has anyone experienced having to replace the wiring harness in the hatchback part of the wagon....i been having electrical problems starting with my rear wipers not going thru the cycle...it stopped wherever you turn it off on the window...my dome lights would flicker then my rear power locks went dead.....and my reverse lights went out....all in one months...my toyota service said the parts would have to be made in japan and ive been waiting since mar.9,2005 they said it wont be here till june because of this golden week thing in japan that the workers dont work .......this is just way too long....but they said i cant do anything but wait.....japan is the only place in the world to get this part....u would think they would have parts......but i guess not....guess i just bought the wrong car.....!!!!!!!!
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    My friend, owner of a 2001 Esteem sedan with 55K miles told me his engine seized while he was driving the car saturday night. He has always used Mobil 1. His first sign was a ticking the day before when the car was hot. The next day he said the car just lost power while driving and when he tries to start it metal to metal sounds come from the car. Engine just barely turns over. He dropped the car off at the dealer and is waiting for the verdict but he sure its seized.

    He bought the car two weeks before Suzuki went with the longer warranty. His warranty was 3/36. I will add that he takes no mercy on a car and has always driven that way. Nothing I say can change that. Redline, late braking...you name it.
    Any chance that the dealer will take mercy on him and pick up part of the tab for engine replacement? BTW this is his second Suzuki from that dealer.

    I will keep the list informed when he hears from the dealer.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Dealer called back and told my friend they discovered that his bearing had spun on cylinder #3. Dealer offered to install a used engine from a 2002 Esteem with 25K miles on it for $2800. My friend is going for it. Replaced engine will have a 6 month warranty.
  • enerjyenerjy Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking about trading my old car for a 1998 Esteem GLX Wagon with 59K miles on it. Please advice if I should go ahaed with it or not. The guy sells cars from auctions. I need a car with good gas mileage and enough space for family. THe other wagons out there are too expensive. Help me make this decision? Also, if I can get some pros and cons about this car, that'll be a big help towards making my decision.

    Happy Zuking and thanks
  • airdale1airdale1 Member Posts: 1
    hi cityplanner....talk about soft suspension and creeky to ...mine, 1999 glx wagon 1.8l has been creeking like an old horse buggy since day one...they say it's the rubber padding in the strut assembly....nothing they could do...i had and old 12 years old jetta before this, never had a single creek out of that babe....i've got 98,0000 km on this wgn now ...needed new torsion bar links (front and back) surprise....450.$ to replace....75 $ per unit at the back and 35$ per unit at the front and 2 hours to replace ...highway robbery from dealership ! now don't even think to replace the struts if you live in canada...dealership part price for same old crapy softies: 250.$ per strut and 230.$ for top and bottom assembly, plus one hour labour (60.$) per side: total -+ 500.$ per side...and don't forget our wonderful servives and sale taxes 15%.....how can a kyb gr2 strut in the usa selling for 52.$ us, per unit jump in canada to 250.$ ( i guess canadian dealership honesty and fair trade concept is an oxymoron).....oh yes the rough running in cold humid weather/ that almost stalling feeling for a second ....well the dealership couldn't fix that either....what works for me ( i told them it was the onboard computer...but no ! it would be to much to try and fix (especially during warranty period, even dough the 1998 model had a call back on this problem) ....when it happens, i pull off to the side of the road, turn the engine off and count to 10 and restart the engine...work's every time...this is an obc default reset,.,,but don't say this to any dealership they will laugh you out of there shop (defence strategy 01). Beside these little pet peeves i like the car...it is frustrating if not enraging trying to purchase replacement parts...next car won't be a suzuki , but that's not for an other 4 years and by then maybe the only thing i will be able to afford will be a donkey....the more i think of it the more i like it...all wheel drive, ride and park almost anywhere where some kind of leafy stuff grows...makes the snobiest blondes smile back at you.... ;) oh well things to look forward to.....
  • zenoahzenoah Member Posts: 2
    :sick: When am turning the switch to ignite the engine (esteem GL 1.6) the starter wont turn and I can clearly hear the solenoid movement. (The starter is new and properly connected )

    But the big problem is, I dont have 1/2 time a clear 12v to properly activate the solenoid. Some time he start some time he not.

    When I put the tester on the solenoid wire (when connected) during am starting, the voltage drop to 6 -8 v. If he's not connected I have 12v from wire. So what make the voltage drop ??If I jump it whit 12v right from battery he start each time. The starter is good but 12v suck.

    If am using 12v from key switch to solenoid, the starter work great but I can start the engine when am on drive or reverse so this is not the solution and the cpu dont realy like it (many error message).

    So the problem must be between the key switch and starter. I tried to follow the wire from the switch through the dash but its to crazy

    So if u have any idea guy's, ill take all suggestion.
  • evenstevenevensteven Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know if the 2.0L Aerio engine will fit in a Suzuki Esteem? I just bought a 2002 Aerio engine and tranny. I am going to try to stick it in my 99 GLX.
    It will be awsome if it works. The 2.0L looks almost exactly like the 1.8L so I am guessing it will work. I called Suzuki and the could not tell me. I also called the corporate people and they said I would have to call the factory in Japan. If it does fit I will be selling my 1.6L which runs like new with 72,000 miles on it. I had my manual tranmission go out on me. I found out how expensive it was for the transmission and thought (screw it, Ill just get a whole new engine).
  • spooner11spooner11 Member Posts: 1
    the dealer is saying it is from a build up of oil and varnish sludge that resulted in a timing chain to brake, ruining the engine. We bought this car used 12/03 with 43,000 miles and have put on 10,000 miles since, changing the oil every 3-4000 miles. We bought an extended warranty, but they are refusing to cover this because they say that it is not a result of faulty workmanship, but a buildup. I asked if there was anything that we could have done to prevent this and they said no. Has this happened to anyone else? It seems pretty ridiculous to have that much build up at only 53,000 miles and for an engine to crap out. Do you think suzuki will cover anyof this?
  • thehimalayasthehimalayas Member Posts: 3
    I'm looking to buy a used 2002 Suzuki Esteem with around 31,000 miles from a dealer (for around $5700). I saw that the front tyres need replacing (tread wear). Is this normal? Thanks.
  • evenstevenevensteven Member Posts: 8
    All front wheel drive cars will ware the front tires down really fast, because they have to turn the car and move the car at the same time. If there is uneven ware the alignment might be off. If the car is a 1.6L and a manual transmission, make sure the transmission doesnt make any noise. The automatics are very common so they are not so expensive. But the manual tranmissions are very rare and expensive. The Esteem is a very reliable car other than that.
  • thehimalayasthehimalayas Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the advice. This one is a manual transmission, so I need to be more cautious. I will have it checked by an independent mechanic. Thanks again, and any further advice is appreciated.
  • challchall Member Posts: 1
    We recently purchased a used 2001 Suzuki Esteem Wagon. We are having electrical problems (we figure originating around the hatch closure) but affecting interior lights etc.
    We have been trying to find a manual for this Suzuki in order to make repairs easier. Usually you can get a manual for most cars at Canadian Tire but one does not seem to exist for the Suzuki Wagon. My husband did find one on-line but at the hefty price of $300.00 (US). Does anyone know if a reasonably priced manual does exist?
  • chaser1972chaser1972 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 glx wagon 1.8 auto, and I average a little better than what youre getting-- about 20-22city and 26-28 highway. The sticker estimates are almost impossible to duplicate, as the EPA has a VERY precise testing method(they never take traffic, hills acceleration into account. I was getting much worse mileage until i changed my spark plugs and air filter. I hope this helps
  • chaser1972chaser1972 Member Posts: 2
    I had a check engine issue. It came on, stayed on for a while, and i noticed a dip in gas mileage. But it ran great until the day it wouldnt start. this was at 120k miles. I changed the plugs(they were the originals :blush: ) and the air filter and this cleared the check engine light
  • liyanliyan Member Posts: 1
    Hi, there:
    I just got my Suzuki esteem wagon (2001) by a private selling two week ago. Yesterday I found the check engine light was on during my driving. and I tried open the fuel cap and close it several times, but warning light was still on. I thought the problem was just your's. did you solve this problem with your car. If you did, could you please share with me ?
    Thanks a lot!
    Li
  • towncouriertowncourier Member Posts: 2
    I have an '02 GLX wagon. Use it for courier + delivery work. Carries flowers, parcels, auto parts. Lots of cargo area. And I stuff it with lots of weight too. Run it roughshod over gravel through truck yards and driveway curbs. Lock & unlock the doors 50 x daily. Starter gets a workout too. Now has 193,000 km. Only service I've done? Brakes of course. Tires once. 1 brake light bulb. Bottom line, these are pretty reliable cars. This week the a/c stopped working. I need to get it looked at, but before I do....anyone had any a/c problems? Solutions?
  • zuki42zukizuki42zuki Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 glx wagon...been 3 months since brought in....japan had to make a new harness for he hatch...electrical problems...rear lights out... lights flickering....hope this doesnt happen again !!!
  • radiokenradioken Member Posts: 8
    I am also getting about the same mileage 23 city and 27 highway. I bought the car in February with 42,000 miles, it's been tuned, new plugs, air filter PCV valve. Mileage has gone up 1 or 2 MPG now that the weather's warmer, but it may drop if I use the A/C. Anyway, I was hoping for the 30+ MPG my old Tracer got.
  • thehimalayasthehimalayas Member Posts: 3
    I'm in the process of purchasing a used Suzuki Esteem 5 spd with high mileage (close to 100K miles). While the car looks and drives just fine, I've noticed that the clutch pedal springs back about an inch after I release it, and there is a bit of a ricochet (sort of like a loose spring). Is this a minor problem, or something more serious? Thanks.
  • chronodecochronodeco Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Esteem that has an intermittent overdrive problem that sound similar. It will work fine most of the time but sometimes it pops out and the overdrive light comes on for just a few seconds, then it will go back into overdrive. This is not a problem that I want to take to a shop 90 miles away. Did you find a solution to this problem. Mine seems to be electronic but I am not sure. Yours was the only post I found on the internet regarding the overdrive. Thanks, Craig
  • trafficguytrafficguy Member Posts: 1
    I Have a 2001 Esteem GL 1.8L 5-speed that has an intermittent rough/low idle problem. When the engine is fully warmed and I pull to a stop light, the engine RPM will drop to about 500 RPM. This condition will last about 15 seconds and then it will return to normal. The car has 43K miles on it and has been stone cold reliable otherwise. Any Ideas? Also, is the fuel filter located in the tank?

    Thanks.....
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Year
    Part
    Model Description Miles Part
    Grade Stock# US
    Price Dealer Info
    1999
    Transmission
    Suzuki Esteem REBUILT,12MO WARRANTY,250.00 CORE 20AFTR $845 Albany Auto Salvage, Inc. USA-GA(Albany) E-mail 800-873-1669
    1999
    Transmission
    Suzuki Esteem F-5,1.6L,5-99 N205 $700
    --Can--
    $840.00 Team Auto Parts Can-MB(Winnipeg) Request_Quote 1-204-222-7333 1-888-832-6870 Request_Insurance_Quote
    2000
    Transmission
    Suzuki Esteem F-5,1.6L,10-99 N329 $650
    --Can--
    $780.00 Team Auto Parts Can-MB(Winnipeg) Request_Quote 1-204-222-7333 1-888-832-6870 Request_Insurance_Quote
  • suzkmansuzkman Member Posts: 5
    I have '99 1.8 DOHC since new 6 years ago. This engine runs clean. There has to be something else that is making the chain break. That chain is good for 200K if you do not hot rod with over 6500 rpm all the time. Some other brands of Asian design cars have sludge, but not the 1.8L design.

    something physical like a hydraulic lifter (lack of oil changes B4 you came into the picture) would-could have been the problem since 30M miles. Take off the valve cover(you can reuse the same gasket, but expect leaks around the sparkplug holes) and check out the oil staining in the cover and at the tope of the head. Should be fairly clean. If clean, then, you have other physical-mechanical problems from over-rev or bad lifter causing undue stress onthe engine in normal speeds, etc. vr
  • suzkmansuzkman Member Posts: 5
    alot of those original Suz Esteem's had fast wearing performance tires and the shock in the front would start to fade at 25K. Tire wear onthe outside of each front tire tread(about 1.25" in). keep the tires up to 32-33 psi and the back up to 30psi and you will be able to get more miles--with good shock--about 55-60K per set with rotation. The tire alignment is a big factor and if you had hit curbs and chuck holes with weak shock, then, this would have taken 30K miles of tread wear off in 7-10K miles of mixed street and highway driving.

    KYB makes replacement front struts for $70 ea and these will last 100K.
    good luck-vr
  • suzkmansuzkman Member Posts: 5
    we have the '99 1.8 GTLX+ wagon. There is a problem with some of the coils onthis model. the first of the 1.8 crop has and still has 4 individual coil packs located on the cast alloy valve cover. These are fired by a no maintenance distributor. The spark plugs will tell you the story if you have a "lazy" coil in the lot.
    The engine will warm up with a little faultering in cold-new start. and then, level off to a smoother running that the dealer will respond to by,"looks OK to me".

    You can install the correct plug with proper gap settings and still get poor performance from the stop sign with a slight baulk, and, never get over 25-26 mpg with light touch driving.
    The "lazy" coil will exhibit less gap wear in the center electrode measure after 20K miles--talking about .002" wear vs. a good coil with 3.5 to 4 thousandths wear.

    Another problem with spark plugs on this 1.8L DOHC is that the early manuals '99, show two different plugs. one with a smaller gap and one with Roman
    "II" on the insulator. The II is-has the larger gap and some dealers and parts people will sell you the smaller gap plug with the other part number being same as II number, but, with no II And they will gap the non II plug with the larger gap--you have a drop in MPG, slugish response . Get the II plug--says II on box, and the insulator barrel, and get the mpg and performance back up there.

    Torque is important on the spark plugs. make sure you have enough when first seating this plug--some mechanics think they will over torque and in 5K miles you have a loose plug that can cause roughness in idle and poor hot engine performance--damn thing just lacks upper end power???

    These new coils are expensive and you are best advised to not to buy junk yard stuff unless it's $35. ea.

    Air filter--change it every 18K miles. You start to lose power at 25K for a filter.

    This car has hydraulic valves and do not need adjusting. At 65K they will seem noisy, but, that is their nature.

    I get 27mps went big foot wife is city driving--30 when I drive it, 33-35 when she does longer highway; and 34-37 when I can drive the highway without her turning on the AC--AC drops it 4mpg.

    If you are not getting even tire wear on the fronts, you could be losing 4 mpg across the board. Couple that with lazy coil and wrong spark plug gap and you may be down to 22 city and 28-29 highway at 60 mph.. If you can keep it at
    63mph in the level highway even foot driving you are going to get 34-35mpg if all is correct. Drive at 66-70 and the milage drops 3mpg.

    There are two oxy sensors on this model--one at the engine manifold and one at the converter--further back. This would be my idea to check if you were not getting good mpg and the other things mentioned are correct. With correct setting, you will not have any residue in the tail pipe at the back--only a slight, slight dust on the end of your finger.
    Wipe the tail pipe clean and check it 4 days later-80 miles.

    Cheaper gas will lose you 3-4 mpg and cost you more in AC weather. pay the extra $.05 to .10/gallon and keep the oil cleaner and get better engine running.

    vr
  • suzkmansuzkman Member Posts: 5
    Before we bought the '99 1.8 DOHC in '99 we asked the Suz mechanic in the back about the 1.6L and he started to frown. He liked the newer 1.8 L for a number of reasons. The 1.6L has valve problems-keep on schedule with the valve adjustments. The 1.8L has hydraulic valves--no adjustments for the life the the lifter.

    Slap is a wear problem from lack of lubrication on startup and during cold running and even during warm running. You should be using some oil to have slap now.

    I would try some premium oil-Mobil 1 in 5W for summer and 0W for winter--below freezing. to lessen the wear on the 1.6L I have been running the 1.8L with 0-40 and 5W30 Mobil 1 since new and the motor still has little cold and hot sounds. I have taught my wife to let the temp gauge hit the bottom mark before driving away.This is the real secret to getting 250-300K out of an engine--even the GM stuff. With the Mobil 1 I go 6K between oil changes and use good grade of regular and still have 3/8 quart low on the stick at 6K miles intervals.

    The 1.6L was just an earlier engine that had several short comings.
    vr
  • suzkmansuzkman Member Posts: 5
    The 1.8L I have has been very tight and durable. The Escort will be easier to sell and easier to get used parts for, but, the Suz will out last the Ford engine and trans by 100K miles with a little care. You will tend to spend more 3X on the Suz for parts. It's what you want to drive and be seen in along with the financial.
    vr
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Just an FYI... these forums may NOT be used for the buying and selling of anything. That's why a group of postings have disappeared from this thread.

    Regarding the posting of email addresses or phone numbers:

    One important key to a successful, vibrant online community is having the conversation take place where everyone can benefit from the questions and answers. Therefore, we highly discourage "email me" requests within a post. As we like to have the discussion in the Forums, these posts will be removed. An email exchange of answers deprives the community of valuable information. Including your email address in posts also risks your security by exposing it to those who will use it maliciously. If you would like your address available to other registered members, click on 'Preferences' and mark your email address 'public'.

    And as far as phone numbers are concerned, as we cannot verify each and every number posted in the Forums, it's best to not post phone numbers in your posts. I can verify this from personal experience. My phone number was once posted on a public message board by someone, and I was forced to change numbers due to the volume of crank calls I started getting.

    If anyone would like to discuss these issues further, please feel free to click on my username and we can discuss it in email.

    Let's keep this topic for discussion of the Esteem wagon. Thanks!

    PF Flyer
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