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Kia Sedona problems
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Comments
This van is not only unsafe,but unsafe because my wife and I are both disabled and neither one of us dare to venture very far from home. We have put on 3100 since buying it 4/25/05. I was thinking of trading it in on another make but would lose about $10,000.00. (was also lied to by the salesperson saying that Kia holds it value as wellas Honda and Toyota) what a lie !!!
Read these Edmunds Sedona posts by cutting and pasting the numbers (one at a time) into the "Go To Msg#" box above and pressing 'Go'. You'll find some interesting reading. It sounds like your alternator needs replacing, and that KIA should know something about this problem. There's a little debate about whether there's an official TSB or not, but regardless, this is a known issue.... at least on here!
869 823 682 679 673 347
Next time you go to the dealer, give them print outs of these posts. Don't let them pull the old "Awwwww.... you can't believe what you read on the Internet!" routine on you either!
:-)
-SM
From what I'm reading on some other forums, Hyundai/KIA's Korean management will most likely be VERY interested in hearing what people have to say about their chronic problems, as long as you're being reasonable and informative. Take your problems over the North American management's heads if you have to! Here's the contact page on the
Corporate (Korea) website, and what they have to say:
"In order to provide optimum service, we are eager to listen to your
concerns. When Kia distributors in your country or the dealership near
you are not able to solve your vehicle's problem for any reason, please
contact us directly using the e-mail shown below. Your comments are very
important to us."
http://kiamotors.com/UContactusWeb/Contactus.aspx
==========================================
A interesting article for anyone who has had chronic problems with
their KIA. An inside look at how KIA is supposedly tracking and responding
to customer issues.
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_zdbln/is_200506/ai_n13639635
=============================================================
http://quote.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=nifea&&sid=aP3fm7NUHAOw
EXCERPT: (great history of Hyundai's in the link above!)
Hyundai's Toyota Obsession Fuels Drive to Top Five - July 2005
"Since taking over Hyundai Motor five years ago, Chung has been
obsessed with erasing Toyota's price premium. Every Monday morning in Seoul,
he personally inspects new models and scolds his subordinates when he
spots a defect."
-SM
Are there any accessory chips on the market that can change the fuel economy?
What's the story on the keys for the Sedona. Yes, I have the remote. But I wanted a couple of "hideout" keys for the "oh crap" moments when you shut that locked tailgate with the automatically locked doors (it's a "feature" remember!) and see your keys inside.
I found that some stores have key assortments from "Axess" (?) and a #31 key cut on my original will get me in the doors. That's good. But it would be nice if one also turned the ignition which it won't. No other blank we've found will even unlock the doors. The original key doesn't seem to have a security chip - we've checked with the chip detector in the "Axess" machines. Doesn't identify one. Identifies the Suburban chip just fine.
Anyone know the real info about this? Is there a chip that prevents the replacement key from even rotating the ignition cylinder? It fits in - just won't rotate it. Or is there some other key blank that should be used. (I checked with a locksmith and he told me he didn't even have any key blank that would even fit the doors.) Dealer is no help and only offers to order some for me and he says he doesn't even know what they'd cost but he claims they're pretty expensive. (I can understand that if they have a security chip, but if there's no chip that "Axess" company has plastic headed #31 keys for $1.59!)
When testing out your new key, make sure that the steering wheel isn't locked, and thus putting pressure on the tumblers.
I thought I was having a problem with my new Spectra yesterday because the factory key wouldn't turn. I've owned the car for over a year, but this was the first time I experienced this. By process of elimination I found that the wheel was in a locked state, and by slightly turning it to the right the key was able to turn just fine.
The owner's manual did have a warning about this situation in the section entitled "Ignition Lock".
You might also want to invest in another key cut by a different service. Maybe the first one wasn't done correctly.
Good luck!
-SM
The relock feature only activates if you haven't opened a side door within 30 sec. The feature deactivates once any door has been opened other than the lift gate. After having this feature for 3 yrs, the only minor irritation is if you are alone and unlock the rear to load groceries or stuff in the back and nobody is along to open the side door. Repressing the remote takes about 1 sec. All covered in the owners manual.
Like you, I do have a spare key hidden in case someone would inadvertently lock the keys in the car. (Kids do run to/from the van while we are out) at sporting events. Unlike you, I negotiated the spare keys to be made by the dealer when I bought the car...one for every key ring we carry, plus the hide out. Recommend you get somebody else to try making a key for your set up.
I guess the OC moment would happen if you opened the rear and tossed your keys inside from the tailgate, or pressed the lock button from the front while the lift gate was up, then closed all the doors. I can't figure out how an OC moment would occur as you describe if the van were locked, you opened the lift gate and closed it, unless you have a habit of lying your keys down in the van. If you repocket the keys like most folks, you just pull them out when you get around to the side door.
If you have AAA, they an offer unlocking service assistance as a back up while you are searching out a place to get a key made that works.
Sorry your gas mileage is so crummy. None of my friends with AWD Suburbans have much luck with their gas mileage, but yours must really be bad if a Suburban gets 2x yours. Wish you good luck in resolving your issues.
For the last few weeks it has begun to stall at stop lights. I had it in for a service (coils, filters, etc) but the problem did not go away. Without an engine trouble light on, the tech did not know what the problem was. It also seems to run rough at 1500 RPM, no lower or higher.
Anyone else heard of this?
The mileage may work out with more time and miles. I'm also just not very used to "breakin" periods with cars anymore, at least not profoundly increasing the mpg. At about 12 average right now, it's disappointing. BUT - we haven't had it out on any long highway runs and that may be a help, and may reflect better mpg highway. We knew going into it that the Sedona had low mpg figures and that was not a strong deterent considering the price. Gotta buy a lot of gas to make up for $10G or more off a DC, Honda or Toyota.
Resale value is of little interest to us. We drive them till they drop - "organ donors".
We don't trade off every three or five years. There's another vehicle over twelve years old in the family fleet right now and I'm not ready to part with that, either.
I'm not, we're not, disappointed with the Sedona. The decision invloved some trade-offs of which we were aware. The low purchase price for the apparent value won out. Heck a brand new van for under $18G? No argument! And it's still got the look and feel of a very good vehicle. Nit picking? I could - easily. But none of it matters since all vehicles have some things some of us don't like, wouldn't seek out, and would rather have be different. All in all, it's fine.
Does anyone have any advise on the vinegar smell or the motorcycle high pitch noise???
On a different note has any one put in a aftermarket remote starter? I would have the dealer do it, but it took them three days to get a timing belt on it during the 60,000 mile service. I just can't be with out the van for a month why they try to learn wiring.
Do a search in this forum. Type in "license plate" or "tailgate rust". This is a common disease with Sedonas.
Here's the problem. The thin and narrow rubber gasket that cushions the mating of the painted tailgate metal and the chromed (on the EX) horizontal piece is not glued or otherwise affixed to either metal piece. When you or a friend, relative, stranger, or even a Kia lot boy or service technician closes the tailgate by pushing against that horizontal piece above the license plate, the flat painted sheet metal behind the horizontal piece flexes which allows the gasket to become misaligned between the parts. Eventually, the gasket shifts so much that metal to metal contact takes place which rubs the paint off. Inevitably, rust develops sometime later.
In fact, in some cases, the slamming of the tailgate in this way will actually slightly dent the flat sheet metal behind each end of that horizontal piece. In those cases, the gasket will often fall out and dangle from the space between the two metal parts. Again, rust eventually will result.
This is such an obvious design defect that I must believe all dealers have been, or should be, instructed to make repairs at no cost to the owners. It should not be excluded from warranty service due to a claim of negligent physical abuse to the tailgate because it happens to so many Sedonas.
Just take a close look at the Sedonas in your town as you are driving behind them. Probably 25% or more of them are dented in this fashion (or have already been repaired). Its too bad there seems to be no easy remedy nor prophylactic; the metal is just not stiff enough there to stand up to the stress of closing the hatch that way.
Oh well... keep your hands on the bottom edge of the tailgate as you close it or be prepared to take and leave your van at the dealer's for repair if you forget.
I recently bought a year 2000 2.9 Turbo Diesel GSX. All was fine at first. I know that all diesels do smoke a bit, but recently, and mostly when I start it for the fist five minutes in the morning, it has no power in second gear, and pours out quite alot of gray and black smoke. I have tried taking to the dealer I bought it from, and they say that the smoking depends on the way you drive it, and they put in some injector cleaner. They did leave it to mid-day to see if they could replicate the morning thing, but say it was ok. I have now noticed today, that as well as the loss of power, and smoking from the exhaust, the smoke has started to enter the cabin through the air-con vents! Surely something is wrong here, and I am going to go to a Kia Garage to let them have a look. Any ideas or comments would be appreciated!
I remember awhile back seeing posts about the Sedona making a dinging sound while make sharp turns. Well, that is what my Sedona is doing now. When you make a sharp right turn or after placing the van in park and setting the emergency brake the van will make a dinging sound. The best way I can describe the sound is like leaving your lights on after turning off the ignition.
Does anyone remember these sort of post and what the outcome was?
The van has 65K miles. Replaced the battery a couple of days ago for the first time. Also replaced fan belt. I haven't done the timming belt though.
1. air conditioner noise- I too went through the service nightmare of trying to find the issue of the noise and then hot air blowing. What they found is an insulated vaccuum tube that was leaking under insulation and was not detected by 3 leak tests.
2. Has anyone had issues with the plastic handles breaking?
3. the worst of my issues is recently after doing my 100,000 mileage service- i heard a tapping in my engine and checked the oil and was a little low but nothing major. I put oil in it and didnt seem to have any issues.( This was in 100 degree temps) About a month later I was driving and it started to tap and the oil pressure light came on. I checked the oil and it was full. It was a little bit past time to change oil so I did that and at the same time ran an engine flush through it. The next time it was time to change oil it started tapping again and also oil light. I had the oil changed and it lasted about a week. I tried it again and the same thing. Now I can only go about 5-10 minutes driving before tapping and light comes on. I am thinking it is the pickup screen or the oil pump. Has anyone had this issue? I have a 2002 kia sedona.
The verdict? WIPED OUT CRANK BEARINGS
At around 80k miles the lousy aluminum head cracked and pushed a large amount of antifreeze into the combustion chambers. Antifreeze and bearings don't play nice together.
I had the head fixed and the car ran okay, but as mentioned above, around 100+k miles I started experiencing the symptoms you describe.
I sold the car before the engine completely let go. I warned the guy that it probably needed a look at the crank bearings, so I didn't feel too guilty.
-SM
Finally got in a long road-trip with this Sedona. Highway mpg was just at or slightly over 20 mpg on mixed terrain, mostly divided highway. Four occupants, some luggage. Mostly 75 mph on cruise. Very little "small-town" driving for a day only dropped the total maybe to 19.5 mpg for that leg of the trip. (Mixed brands of regular gas with no heroics trying to fill it the same every time.) That's not bad at all for just under 3000 miles so far.
Not much shifting going on with that big V-6. In fact, in hills up around western NY state and northwest PA, it doesn't even breathe hard. Fantastic engine. About 2500 rpm most of the time for 75 mph and never had to use the whole throttle even passing trucks uphill on some rural two-lanes.
Sure holds a ton of crap without having to make room in any heroic ways. Just shoved the back seats forward after folding them and there was all kinds of room. Handy package.
This was my first chance to spend any "stick time" with the bus. I am VERY favorably impressed with the road manners. Feels very solid, very predicatble. No shake - doesn't "cower" to semis or wind gusts - in fact Ohio on Sunday had some evil winds and the Sedona tracked true and solid. Of course at 5000+ pounds and front-wheel drive it SHOULD buck the wind well!
The weight made the first couple of highway exits, um, "interesting" as I forgot just how long it takes to haul down two and a half tones from 75 mph. Gotta remember this is a beefy vehicle. Long "roll-out"!
But again, I really LIKE the way this bus handles and performs. I've driven a bunch of big expensive cars in my life that handled a whole bunch worse than this.
Not ready to say I "love" this van, it's not the type of vehicle I could "love" I don't think, but I sure do like it a lot. I can put up with some aggravations for the good things it does at a great price.
One question I'll toss out - the interior "courtesy" lights get danged awfully hot in a very short time - definitely not for reading on the trip! Short glance at a tour guide trying to find a motel made for some big-time heat. Anyone find or try lower wattage bulbs in these to see if the heat can be reduced? It would seem to maybe even be a fire hazard to me. Anything to that? Is there any service bulletin or recall on these?
i have recently purchased a 2000 2.9 tds.
started it in morning and it had no power and
black smoke and comeing into cab area.
my friend at local garage took car in
and he found to much oil in engine, it was
over filled, he drained to correct level .
it now runs fine he told me to run car for
10 minutes turn off then check level and
make sure your on level ground since then i
have had no trouble but im keeping check onit
and recording my millage fingers crossed .
i hope this helps,or if someone has cure for
this let me know mike
The chrome strip above the license plate is ill-designed to function as a door closing handle. If you close your hatch by pressing on it you can dent your tailgate and end up with rust when the rubber gasket moves or falls off.