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I am new on this forum, and had no clue that there is a site dedicated to Toyo's rattles.
I have a Camry 98, LE, 4 cyl bought almost new in 2000.
Since then, I am keep having a very annoying rattle on the right side , as "solara00" put it "near the right front speaker".
I noticed the rattle is louder on winters, and generally the first miles, at low speed, when the car is still "cold". After warming up, rattle is not that loud , but still annoying on low speed, bumped road.
Went to a very good mechanic @ Midas , thinking that frt. rt struts/ suspension are at fault. But got negative!
I also hate to see the dealership disassemble the entire door panel for this, and charging hundreds.
Anyone else had this and know what the fix is?
I would really appreciate. Can reply directly to my e-mail varsity96@yahoo.com
Thank you!
Dan
Rebecca Martin
Ali Rehman
my email is:
callmealee@yahoo.com
Otherwise, GREAT car!
that should help the Service mgr.
Sorry I can't give more specific help. Maybe the Host can help, because others have asked recently.
HTH,
-hank2
In Rattles,
333 of 384 canoe2 and andrelaplume by amphipri0n
Feb 19, 2004.... Posted the following:
andrelaplume: you can download TSB.zip" target=_blank>http://www.tt-cc.com/ratko/TSB.zip open it up and the noise issues all start with the letters "nv"
-Hank2
i would appreciate it. the sound only goes away when the car is wet after going through the car wash. and it is driving me crazy.
Good luck!
thanks for the info. i called the dealer he said my 2004 is not covered under the tsb nv005 because that covers 2003 camrys
i ordered the cowl anyway and i called the regional toyota guy and told him i expected toyota to pay for the part and labor which cant be more then 50. lets see if the cowl fixes the problem. when i called the parts guy he told me he has ordered 6 other cowls in the past few months. must be a lot of people read this site. i think it is great.
Any ideas as to what it could be. Is there a crack between the glass and door frame?
PS: The ironic thing is the little doggie had a rattle in it...a REAL one for when a baby would shake it. He is wedged in so tight you never hear it. GOOD LUCK!
anyway i reached the new service mgr. he was great made an appointment gave him the two service bulitan s. he put on the NV005-03 windshield cowl and it still clicked. he then ordered a new toyota windshield even though the TSB said the windshield fix was only for japanese made toyotas. my car was made in kn. he put in the new windshield on fri and i drove the care on sat and Guess what no creaking/clicking sound.. i know i will have to wait for cold weather . i live in denver.
but it was such a pleasure to drive the car noise free. thank you for this site.
It's so much more pleasant to drive now. Nine months, 3700 miles and not one defect (now).
It only occurs on rougher pavement where more vibration and road noise transfers up through the wheels.
I don't think it has anything to do with the windshield; there is no creaking, popping or the kind of deeper sound I've heard others describe as related to the windshield seal or cowling on earlier models. This sound is similar to perhaps, a coin rattling on a plastic tray. (No coin has been dropped through a vent).
I've had the car since late December and the sporadic rattle began appearing around February when the car had about 1200 miles. Most of the rattles reported in this forum seem to be the windshield related or driver's side pillar post/ seat belt housing kind.
I don't recall any posts here stating a positive fix for the rattle I've described. I'd like to know what success anyone has had before I take it to the dealer so I can give them some suggestions. Does anybody have some help they can offer? Thanks!
2) I hope this one is more mechanical. When going over a roughish surface and turing I hear a metalic echoey noise coming from the passenger wheel well (?) area. Any ideas.
THANKS!!!
First I thought it came from the door or seat belt area, but it was not. It was the plastic along the body panel that made the noise. When you are braking, the whole body got flexible, and the plastic rubs again the body.
Here is the solution, use a can of silicon spray along the the plastic panel. If it does not work then remove scuff plate, spray silicon into open holes.
Let me know how it goes.
Well, it should last for long time. I had it close to 2 years, I have not heard any creak noise.
My Drivers side door rattled at ear level and it took me weeks to figure out if I wedged paper between the door and the inner rubber seal/trim (the one that covers the edge of the seatbelt pillars and headliner) that the noise changed. I had various other issues with the door panel itself, creaking and making various noises. The dealer explained there is a service notice out on the door panel and they were able to fix this (mostly, it still creaks once in a great while) but the door noise I had to diagnose myself!! The door noise where the metal frame of the door meets that rubber trim has by far been the worst of any car I've ever owned. I was able to stop the noise by temporarily removing the inner rubber trim.
I later took this to the dealer to demonstrate the problem, and their reply was that my doors on the driver side seem misaligned and were sticking out from the frame of the car. "SOLUTION: Set the doors deeper in the frame giving it a tighter fit against the rubber seal!" (It seems so far not to be making the noise).
I have had various other noises including noised from somewhere inside the dash (this is mostly noticeable when driving the car on not such a fresh smoothly paved road) and it is annoying. I must say I like the car, less the noises.
Toyota has a factory rep coming in two more days, who is supposed to inspect my car further as since they have adjusted the doors they look crooked in the frame. I don't think they should make noise, but I also don't think the visual finish should look like crap either. (Where is the middle here people?!)
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I have had two other issues with this car, one is the passenger side front and rear door dont line up well where they meet.. one door is set higher than the other. (Something else the factory rep is supposed to look at!) The other issue is that the drivers side headlight was mounted poorly during manufacturing, the light toward the center grille stuck out almost an entire half an inch from the body (this wasn't apparent on the passenger side headlight)... this was of course an easy fix as it simply needed the center bolt on the cross beam to be unscrewed, push the light back toward the body and tighten the bolt. ("WHY CAN"T TOYOTA PAY MORE ATTENTION TO THE QUALITY OF FIT AND FINISH WITH THIS CAR!?!!?")
What bothers me more about the headlight is when I bought the car I noticed it before going to work the deal and sign the papers, all of the camrys that were on the dealers lot had this same issue with the same headlight, and the same issue with the passender side front and rear door. (I test drove the car and there were no noises during test drive so I figured these other issues were minor adjustments that could be made, boy was I wrong.)
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To date I have been to the dealer four times and it is just frustrating having to take the car back for a fifth visit so the factory rep can look at it, I hope he doesn't just simply disregard the issue... I have also filed a compliant with Toyota's main Customer Service for their manufacturing, they state if my car does not get fixed after the factory rep makes the inspection that I must resort to arbitration and/or claiming lemon law under the state legislature.
And to top it off, the last time I picked up my car, they drove it into something so there is a one inch scratch that goes almost all the way through the bumper... (the dealer of course promised to fix this and apologized for driving my car into something, they claim the service mechanic who worked on my car drove it into the back of a truck and hit the exhaust pipe just barely and that this was their fault.)
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Has anyone else had this much of a problem? I bought the Camry at Ventura Toyota in Ventura, California. By far their Head Director of Parts and Service "Rob van Neumberg" tells me that he feels my car should be fixed and that they need the factory rep to see this repairs to advise how they need to be made as they involve repairs that are not normally made by the dealer. He also explains that they can only attempt to repair/adjust these problems so many times before their policy dictates that the factory rep must be involved.
Toyota really needs to open their eyes and see that allthough only a small percentage of people nation wide have problems with their cars that it should still be enough to be concerned about!
Another thing that helps, lube all your door seals. This helps make some of the pops and creaks go away.
Do complain to Toyota though. My car is an 02. They told me all the rattle issues had been fixed in subsequent model years (mine being the first redesign year, there were bound to be some bugs); yet they could only decribe one design change,(a windshield cowl replacement - which I had installed on my car but only helped a little bit in eleviating rattles / pops seamingly eminationg along the upper dash).
Many will have you believe rattles were only predominant in the 02/03 models. I see more and more 04/05 complaints; in the same locations, which is logical since they have not really changed anything. I guess we learn to live with them or buy something else. Long time owners will remain loyal. Newbies will look elsewhere next time. This is where Toyota will eventually suffer.
Its sad because the car is fine in many other repsects.
PS:
For the radio area rattle have them add some felt. It helped a bit on mine.
For the passenger dash speaker popping in cold weather: they can add some felt, though it did not help me. I now wedge a little stuffed animal in there and it seams to quiet the noise.
For the door popping be sure to lube the seals, especially after you wash your car. This will quiet the noises for a few weeks.
There is a TSB if you have the Sunroof rattle.
Door rattles, I know of know fix other than a home made remedy that involves removing the door panels -- there was a nice post sometime ago...still I am not about to rip apart my car!
For the seat belt adjusters, I know of know permanant solution. If anyone has one please post! Please provide more info on your solution if noise appeared to be coming from inside the adjuster mechanism.
THERE IS A CURE FOR ONE RATTLE THAT IS NOT TOYOTA'S FAULT. Add some foam to your sunglass holder--you'd be amazed how many times glasses can be the culprit!
Good Luck!
You are still lucky with the warm climate, since the rattle will be much worst at cold temperature.
The noise from inside the seatbelt adjusters sounds like a metal on metal buzzing noise in my car, I can hear it both in the driver and passenger side. From what I can tell this is very apparent as the newer camry has this hollowed out seatbelt housing that makes the pillar look flush as where I think their old design was a little better, allthough somewhat cluttered looking.
Personally the buzzing noise doesn't bother me AS much as other noises, my plan is to insulate the interior of this mechanism once I find resolve for the other issues in my car.
Inspecting the car doors closely yesterday after dropping off the car for a factory inspection I noticed that the passenger front door recessed behind the windshield piller as compared to the drivers side which is almost flush with the windshield piller. (When I describe the windshielf pillar I am referring to the frame portion between the door and winshield right above the sideview mirrors).
As it is recessed on the passenger side it seems to me to fit much tighter than on the drivers side.. which is why I am still hearing a rubber/metal noise around the door seal on the drivers side. This is really a structural issue and after inspecting several cars on the lot, only a handful of camrys seems to have even fits on both sides, especially the ones that were assembled in japan (identifyable by their VIN numbers).
I will post again as I hope to achieve a solution to my situation in hopes to help others. I really love the camry, especially the 2005 model due to the minor bumper and light changes, but I think the manufacturing quality and build tolerances are clearly unacceptable for a toyota product. I came from a 2001 Corolla before this car, and with that car I had absolutely no problems, no noises, no nothing, which to me allows there to be no excuse for any Camry newer than 2001 to have less of a build/tolerance quality than a 2001 Corolla.
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I will keep you posted as I am waiting to hear from the factory tech regarding my car today.
Thanks for the support!
They also fixed my bumper where they had damaged it by driving it into something, but they had to repaint the whole thing and I didn't notice at first but the paint job they did is not that great, half of the bumper on the driver side is smooth, and the other half on the passenger side is textured! So guess what, I have to take this back to them again!
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In my frustration this weekend after getting my car back I have resorted to taking it apart and fixing it myself. In doing so I noticed that work they claimed to perform in attempt to repair the rattle inside my dash was in fact never done at all, they claimed to have added extra insulation etc, but after disassembling the problem area I notices that not only had they not done anything, there were also parts under the dash that weren't assembled properly in the manufacturing, namingly the insulation (which is actually burburesque carpet pad, if you can believe that), it has a sticky backing on it to help it stay in place. This piece they installed was a factory piece and wasn't even attached. There were several wire clips that were not attached to their proper mounting points.
So the solution here was to properly attach the insulation and wire clips making sure everything was tight and not loose.
Now when putting the dash back together, there is a black shielding that is secured in by 1 hook in the back and three friction clips in the front (it has two holes in it to allow airflow for the lower airconditioning ducts). This piece was loose beyond believe, so using black foam tape (the kind you would use to insulate a door etc, sold at home depot) I padded the front edge where it was rattling and reinstalled. PROBLEM SOLVED!!
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Now the part a lot of you have been waiting for! SEATBELT PILLARS!! I disassembled the entire housing on the passenger side (both driver and passenger make noise) and had someone drive the car while the housing was completely apart and I was able to pinpoint the noise. It isn't the seatbelt parts itself, the structural pillar that the top seatbelt adjusting bar is attached to is hollow, behind the metal is a large structural impact beam, it is insulated with a spray on type foam that is sprayed on during the manufacturing. As this cannot be taken apart the solution here is sound dampening, so using burburesque I insulated up against the entire metal pillar covering all of the solid surface and the holes, (i slid a piece behind the seatbelt adjusting bar as there is space behind it, all pieces of burburesque were easily attached by some industrial strength double sided tape), I also insulated the upper plastic housing for the seatbelt adjuster as much as possible to prevent any noise for echoing (be careful as this piece needs to still have movability when adjusting the seatbelt, I was able to place two pieces of padding, one on top of the seatbelt hold and one below. I also insulated the lower plastic housing that sits between the the door panels (keep in mind not only did I insulate the lower plastic housing, I also insulated the metal pillar all the down behind this lower plastic housing.
I noticed when taking this apart there were several clips that were not attached during manufacturing that may have attributed to additional noise making the passenger side sound much louder than the driver side so I made sure to attach all of the clips.
It seems to be fixed, there is so much insulation that when the seatbelt mechanism locks from pulling on the seatbelt two times really fast you dont hear the locking pin echo in the pillar, so it is definately covering up some of the noise.
I plan to do the same to the drivers side! Please let me know if any of you have attempted this, if not and you would like some more information I will be glad to share.