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Car runs badly in cold weather
Ok, I've got a 1989 Buick Century, that I will be using for a winter car this year. I drove it for almost the whole month in August, and 2-3 times per week in September, to make sure all the bugs were out before the snow flies, and my other car goes in the garage for hibernation. Through out this test period, I ran into few problems, which I have now sorted. But, since the cold weather is upon us, it has started to run real lumpy, and stall.
It starts fine, and drives fine, but once I come to a stop, or I take my foot off the gas, it stalls. Once stalled, It starts immediatly, but also dies immediately. It has new plugs, wires, and fuel filter as of 12/01. It sounds as though it is mis-firing but I have no knowledge as to prove this. It has a distrubitorless ignition, so I cannot replace the cap and rotor. This system is foreign to me, and I have no idea how to adjust it.
I don't understand why this only happens when it is cold. (the weather, not the engine) This only happens when the temp is in the low 50's or less..
Please help
It starts fine, and drives fine, but once I come to a stop, or I take my foot off the gas, it stalls. Once stalled, It starts immediatly, but also dies immediately. It has new plugs, wires, and fuel filter as of 12/01. It sounds as though it is mis-firing but I have no knowledge as to prove this. It has a distrubitorless ignition, so I cannot replace the cap and rotor. This system is foreign to me, and I have no idea how to adjust it.
I don't understand why this only happens when it is cold. (the weather, not the engine) This only happens when the temp is in the low 50's or less..
Please help
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Is this a lead as to what the problem might be?
The guy at autozone told me that I may beable to just disengage the overdrive, by unplugging some wire, and this might cure the problem.
Also, while under the hood on sunday, I thought maybe a vaccum leak, I used wd40, and sprayed like hell. No difference.
Looks like I'm off to get the haynes manual at the library today at lunch.
Coolant sensor? Where is it, and how do I check it?
What I still don't understand, is if it's electrical, why does this only happen in cold weather?
Thanks again for your help.
I've done searches over the web, and it seems that others with the same symptoms have cured it with a new solenoid. If it was replaced 14 months ago, could it have gone bad again?
This morning, I did the same, and got the same results. But of course it warmed up much quicker, and as soon as my temp rose from cold to normal, it was running fine.
I'm confused as hell now. My codes 26, and 27 showed it was a tranny problem, but now I'm thinking it might be the ignition control module, or a coil, or the ECM.
Or, could it be the temp sensor? I guess this could cause havic with the tranny.
Also, when I got the codes read at Autozone, they gave me directions on how to pin point the problem. It told me to check some wires coming from the ECM, and Diagostic Connector (aldl). I have no idea where these are, and which are wire's "f6", or "d", or "A"
h, BTW, I checked the Tranny fluid, and it's clean, and full. Everything "looks normal"
Could someone help? Pleeeease??
Thankx!
the magnetic engine heater block is completely satisfactory for this quick test... heat the block up an hour or so and if it feels warm on touch, see how things work.
How 'bout an Mass Air Flow Sensor? Some have told me it could be this, but I am unable to take it off the throttle body, b/c the screws are stripping. I'll put some liquid wrench on them tonight..
Thanks for the help so far! I haven't given up just yet!
When the car stalls and you re-start does it stay running until you put it in gear? If that is the problem, the lock up solenoid might be trashed again.
Now that you have pulled the codes try clearing the computer memory and see if anything comes back. Just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. The codes might be left over from when the solenoid was bad. Is the Service Engine Soon light on?
jgmilberg- The car does not run well when in park, reverse, neutral, or drive. But this only happens when the engine, and outside temp is cold.
The engine light only comes on when it stalls, then goes out. when I unplugged the Mass Air Flow sensor, and went for a drive, only then the the check engine light come on.
I'm still working on this, but let me ask you this? What good is the computer, if it gives you false readings?? That kills me!!!.. UGGHHH!!!
Thanks again everyone. I may not beable to get to this till friday, but will definitely keep eveyone updated on my progress. Also, if you have more ideas, keep um coming!!!
Thanks again!
I suppose you could warm it up and then pull the wires one of them. If the gauge stops working, you know you got the gauge. If you set a CEL, then you know you got the one that feeds the PCM.
Or just call the parts store and ask them if one wire or two goes to the engine coolant temp sensor.
I've subscribed to alldatadiy.com for my 87 LeSabre. The wiring diagrams in there are far better than what I've found in Chiltons or Haynes manuals.
FWIW,
TB
Now as far as the coolant goes make sure NOT to mix them up. If you have the green stuff only use the green stuff, and the same goes for the dex cool pink stuff. The two are not compatible and will cause problems later.
I started it, and the same thing happened. It would run really rough, and if I gave it any gas at all, it would stall, and I would hear a cough out the throttle body. I started to pull out of the garage, and it continued to stall whenever any gas was given. I let it warm up, and it drove better, but it would still stall once coming to idle. This time, it seems as though it is not engine temp related. While I was out on the road (with the engine at normal temp), it would stall at idle, and when I would re-start it, it would sometimes idle very high, (3500 is a guess). It would then idle down, and hesitate, and almost stall, but catch itself. and run rough.
Now what? I went to the scappers, and picked up 3 ignition coils, and the ignition control module for $45. I'll try swapping some of these parts out tomorrow. Is there a way to test the coil packs, and the module to make sure they are good?
Now I'm figuring, it's getting gas, and air, but not fire.
Anyone else have any ideas? Please remember, I still don't want to put any $$ in this thing unless necessary. I'll drive it for the winter, then trade it in, along with the wife's car for a (gulp), minivan.
Thanks again.
So to keep it, I must spend minimum funds to get it running. This is more for me to fix, than to give to a mechanic to fix. Besides, all a mechanic is going to do, it to run the diagnositic codes, and it's going to come up with the Codes 26, and 27 above, which we know are for the Tranny. But we also know that the tranny is not at fault here.
Lets get back to the problem. This car ran great in august in warm weather. In september, when the weather was below 50 or so, it stalls in park, neutral, drive, reverse. It will only stall in these gears while at idle. It runs fantastic when driving, only when coming to a stop does it stall. Immediatly after it stalls, it will let out a small cough.
I have recently replaced the battery (july), plugs, wires, and one ignition coil (dec, 01), new TCC solenoid (August 01). Also looking through the reciepts, it looks like an ECM was also replaced in the past (years ago). Now, When taken to our "mechanic" (I use this term loosely), he said that he thought it might be another ignition coil, or the Ignition control module (plate the 3 coils sit on), that might be the problem. This is why I purchased the 3 coils, and the ICM, from the junk yard.
Why does this only happen when cold? Could it be the coils or the ICM?
Thanks again guys..
The ICM might be to blame for the cold weather probs. The board does not expand at the same rate as the solder joints and when it is cold the board might pull away from the board causing a intermittent connection. After the board heats up it creates a good solid connection and away you go.
When you replace the ICM make sure that if it has the sticky white grease on it that you put more grease on it before installing the new/used one. That grease helps transfer heat more efficiently, and w/o the grease the new unit will cook itself in short order.
Just a word of advice, if you really want to keep the car till spring take it to a shop and have it diagnosed. Disconnect the battery just before you take the car in to clear the codes, and they can't come up with that as an explanation. Most dealers charge around $90/hr and it usually only takes 1 hour to diagnose, then you can do the repair yourself. There is a lot to say for a shop with a scope and computer.
Thanks again everyone!