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Pontiac GTO
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Comments
This makes it pretty unlikely that there will be a 2007 GTO. 2008? 2009? I know much more than I can say publicly. I am VERY optimistic, let me just say that. Speculation as to when, or where a next-gen GTO might be built, well, let's just say I've said enough already :-)
--Robert
It actually sounds pretty good - no problems until I try to listen to something very bass-heavy at high volumes, at which point the little 7" subs run out of travel and start bottoming out - ugh. 7" subs can't perform like 12" subs - just a fact of life.
The whole fix cost me $70, and I'm happy. My other car has a fairly extensive aftermarket system with two amps, nice components, a built into the floor sub, and about 700 real watts, so I have a decent benchmark.
Suggest you Google and see for yourself. Disclaimer: I'm an IT geek for a printing company, with no interest in either manufacturer, or any speed shop, for that matter. Just repeating what I've read elsewhere...
--Robert
A guy next to me had the NON-supercharged Saleen and said he paid nearly $45k with dealer markup, that guy got taken for RIDE! It' only has 10 or 20 more hp then regular GT in non S/C form?
I hope he got gold plated door panels and jar of vaseline for that deal. He could have bought a C6 Corvette for that price!!
Personally I think this is a bad decision. I think that Americas fascination with large trucks is going to start trailing off very soon. The boomer generation, of which I'm a part of, is reaching the point where the kids are gone and the ol' SUV is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. I think a move to luxury/near luxury vehicles is going to increase. Creating the right brand image now, like Cadillac is trying to do, will pay big dividends later. Pontiac has (had?) an decent opportunity to create a powerful near luxury car line. If the GTO is delayed til '09 I think GM will have no choice but to move it down-scale into Mustang territory and go after the $25K and under market.
Zeta cars won't be built in North America, at least, not anytime soon... so, if you wanted a next-gen GTO, and you wanted to build it on Zeta, where would you build it?
At this point its hard to tell where/when GM will build be the next gen GTO. Or if they'll build it at all. Since the only other rear drive platform they have is the Sigma maybe the next GTO will really be a Cadillac CTS-V coupe. I'm not convinced that even GMs knows.
I have to respectfully disagree. Although the GTO was never ahead of the pack when it came to raw HP or 1/4 mile times, the GTO is THE BEST VALUE on the market today $/hp. So much in fact that I traded in my '02 Dodge for it. I can't even tell my dad that I own a chevy powered vehicle, as my family (myself included) are huge mopar nuts. It's a good thing I live 1400 miles away. My Dodge had a poorly made interior with lousy body seams. In my opinion, anyone should spend the extra $15K for the SRT8 and tell me just how much they enjoy that extra 25 HP! Not to mention, you'd look retired driving that 4dr around. I'll laugh all the way to the parking lot! The goat is such a good value and fun to drive, I keep making excuses to "run to the store". It's a sleeper with good reviews (see M'Trend Jan. '05?, GTO vs. Caddy, vs. SRT8), and I'm the only one in a 50 mile radius with one. The Shelby's are good cars, as are the SRT8's, but again in my opinion, GM did just fine with the GTO. I've got to run to the store,
Mark
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
By the way the interior on the Saleen is still inferior to the quality and european style looking of the GTO.
"A nicely appointed interior with a usable back seat are pluses in this class. But it is GTO's blend of American-V8 go and European road manners at a reasonable price that earn it our Best Buy rating."
The Stang is not a Best Buy, it's "Recommended" - Upps for the Stang...
Some folks would rather save some $$. Some folks (ok, alot of folks) also prefer the style of the Stang. So, in their opinion, they get a more visually appealing car for somewhere around 18% less money, and sacrifice a relatively small margin in performance. I don't think its the least bit difficult to understand buying either of these cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Yes, know matter what the Ford guys try to tell you, the interior/seats on Mustang is NOT as nice or have same quality as GTO's. Even after you buy the $400 interior improvement package Ford tries to sell you.
In the end I only paid $1k more for GTO. Pretty close.
What about Mustang owners paying $10k more then GTO owners to get the base Saleen, which only adds 15 more hp and is still slower and cheaper interior then GTO. You are just paying for the Saleen name on your car. I believe it's only .1 of a second faster 0-60 then GT.
I spent about 4 1/2 hours driving on Saturday (to N. Chicago 'burbs, then back up to my home town in Wisconsin to visit Mom, then to the party and back home)... didn't feel achy/tired at all... seats are awesome, and my only complaint was that I had to keep turning the A/C down because it was freezing me out (while it was mid-high 90's and humid outside).
God I love this car. Speaking of that, can anyone see the GTO in this picture below? :-)
I did have a question through. I was going through the owners manual and I found a statement referring to the the remote control on the key. It states that the battery should last for about 5 years, there is not replacement for it and you must replace it.
At about $300 or so for the key this seems absurd. Does anyone know anything this?
The fob needs to work in order for the immobilizer to work/the car to start, so not replacing it is not an option...
--Robert
What service schedule are others following?
And while I'm at it - what other services do you have done?
Thanks for any input you can give me.
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People are also complaining about the brake fluid looking cruddy, replacing it with Valvoline synthetic and getting much superior braking abilities (installing C5 Corvette pads on your '04 helps as well - yes, they fit). The differential gear oil also tends to sludge up - lots of folks switching that out for Royal Purple, and noticing much quieter diffs after doing so. Some are taking this further and changing out the tranny fluid/clutch fluid, as, a lot of times the factory stuff looks crappy/contaminated after 6+ months of install and shipping. My brake fluid wasn't bad, but I may change it when I put the car in storage in early November - ditto the differential fluid.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
I do have a question about the type of Mobil one oil to use. Exxon is advertising a long life, 15,000 mile mobil one. depending on price this should reduce costs as well as the inconvenience of changing the oil every three months. Nevertheless engine maintenance is important as I intend to own the car for at least seven years and put at least 120,000 miles on it. Since you seem to know everything about cars, do you know any of the differences in or have any preferences regarding synthetic oils?
Like Hammen I plan on putting mine in storage for the winter. Despite the limited slip and traction control 400 hp is still 400 hp. Not much fun to drive in the snow on summer tires.
I have noticed the alignment seems to be out too so I will have that done as well as the tires rotated (with instructions to use the special tool).
This helps greatly - thanks very much.
Cathy
I'm gonna have to try to post some.
Guess I'd just rather err on the side of caution and do the oil changes more often than less - seems like it'd be better for the engine...
I am fortunate to still have my '98 Aurora (did not want to trade the car in - I own it free and clear, still love it, and would have received not much for it on a trade), so it's my winter car (in storage now).
I know that Mobil now has various extended-life Mobil 1 blends. I have no experience with them, though, so right now I'm sticking with 5W30 (though some recommend 0W40 for the LS1's and LS2's). I am still kicking around buying the GM warranty, and a lot of times, they insist on no more than 4k between oil interval changes, so that's what I'll do. I bought the NAPA Gold filter (do yourself a favor, NEVER use Fram) and a 5 qt jug + 1 qt at Wally World. Was going to do it myself, but got busy and paid to have it done.
I really don't know everything about cars - that's my cubicle mate at work, who restored his '69 Firebird convertible and is halfway through the restoration of his '69 TA. But, I do try to read/know a lot about this car (as well as the Aurora :-)
--Robert
Regarding alignment, your profile says you're in the Bay Area. Strongly suggest you go visit Dublin Motor Sports, a Pontiac-GMC dealer. Mike White from that dealership is probably the most knowledgeable dealer guy there is on alignment and strut rub (spent a lot of time working with Pontiac regarding the issue, TAC knows the revised alignment specs).
For those not close to the Bay Area, here are the suggested specs:
front
camber: -.2 plus/minus .5 (.-.7 to .3)
caster: 7.75 degrees plus/minus 1.25 (9.00 to 6.5)
cross caster: plus or minus .6 degrees
toe: .17 degrees plus or minus .17 degrees (0 to .34 degrees)
stick with something that is close to 0-.17 degrees
rear
camber: -1.05 plus or minus .63 (-.42 to -1.68 degrees)
toe: .4 plus.minus .34 (.06 to .74) - very important to keep this number low.
The rear cambers should be as positive as specs allow (-.42 degrees)
I will probably do this, only when the front pads are worn. Ditto replacing the rims - I'm saving up for genuine Holden CV8-R rims (18"), which I'll put on after my stock tires are junk.
--Robert
1200 will be built starting August 1, with production ending before the end of the year. It comes with sunroof, black hood scoop accents, machine-faced alloys with the CV8-Z logo embossed on one spoke, modified taillamps and gunmetal chrome CV8-Z badges. Pricing will be around $60,000 Australian dollars (about $45,000 US).
In Australia, if you choose Fusion Orange or Phantom Black you get a Fusion instrument cluster and a Fusion and Anthracite leather trim combination.
The other available colors in Australia are Quicksilver, Devil Yellow, and Turismo Blue, with Anthracite leather.
The U.S. GTO will continue production until June of 2006, and be offered in the following colors/interior colors:
Phantom Black (red/black), Quicksilver (red/black), Impulse Blue (blue/black), Cyclone Grey (black), Fusion Orange (only black in the U.S.), and Shanghai Red (black). Yellow Jacket and Midnight Blue Metallic are gone after '05, just like Cosmos Purple Metallic and Barbados Blue were gone after '04.
Artist's illustrations of the last Monaro here:
For those of you with garage cars like mine, when your car sits moisture builds up in the engine which is a bad combination. So whether your car sits or you drive alot your oil still needs changed in a timely manner.
I know tweaking the computer is out of the question unless you are able to change the settings back to factory specs before being serviced.
You have been very helpful...
Steve.
In case you are wandering why i don't find out for myself i have not had time to put enough miles on my 05 6 sp. to run it that hard YET.
Thanks for your input...
Steve.
Starting and running the engine should take care of any moisture buildup. Also, most synthetics are less prone to moisture contamination than non-synthetics.
For '05 (I don't know about the '04) the owners manual describes how the engine oil life system works. My RSX used to just measure mileage. The system described in the manual uses engine revs and temp to determine the change. For some here I suspect the change interval could be well under 3000mi.
For my antique cars I change the oil once a year, they only see 500 miles a year if that. I have never had a problem
Made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is also a very excellent oil for the Gen-III small block (actually, all of them). You have to make sure the bottle says made in germany on the back though. The USA blend stuff isn't the same! And the label has to be red, not yellow. IMO, M1 5W-30 is not the right oil for these engines (again, none of them) even though they seem to live a long time on it (then again, last time I checked, small blocks live a long time on ANY oil). If it has to be a Mobil 1 product, M1 Truck & SUV 5W-40 is a good choice. It's a really robust oil closely related to their excellent Delvac 1. Don't let the name throw you...
This will probably dial out some understeer. Was that your purpose in mentioning it?
Two things....if the car is in storage, starting and idling it for 20 minutes does NOT constitute burning off moisture. Actually, that will have the net result of putting MORE moisture in the oil. So for you storage people, you're better off NOT starting it all winter in that case. Second, how are synthetics less prone to collect moisture? They might be better oils so maybe the properties of the oil can keep the engine lubed better in spite of any water in there, but they can't really change how much water condenses or gets deposited in the oil.
The '04 is still a pretty fast ride, isn't it?
With my GTP (pictured above) I changed the oil every 2K. Changing it at 2K doesn't get dirty. Since I was leasing the '04 I figured I would change it at 3 months or 3K but it seems I only drive about 2K every 3 months. So I am still changing it every 2K. I change the air filter every year. It's due now but I think I am going to open up the breathing and get a K & N filter. And that's my service plan for what it's worth....