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Let's say I am willing to pay $350 for something on EBay. I will NOT put in the $350 until the end. I don't want to let some kid playing on Ebay run me up to the max. Besides he might only be willing to bid $100 for the item. Let'em think that I might stop at $200.
It is all a poker game.
But, in the case of maximum, it is what it is. If you had a maximum of $350 but, ultimately, pay $355, then $350 obviously wasn't your maximum. Same goes with that car dealer's lowest number. If your number changes, then it obviously wasn't your lowest or highest in these cases. When I put in my maximum for an item on Ebay, its my maximum. If someone bids just $1 more, its theirs because its above my max. That's what maximum means.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Of course, the figure is necessarily not really that firm; too many variables involved.
-Mathias
Assuming they want the item in the first place.
And assuming they know the definition of the word maximum. ;^)
Welcome to the world of auctions .l.o.l.
Ebay isn't too much different than going to an auto auction, except it's in "slooooow mooootion" .. watching 2,500+ vehicles in 10/15 different lanes and watching them blow through in 3hrs is a little faster, but the "theme" is the same ..
When you are bidding on vehicles you should always have an number in your head, but don't lose it for $200/$500 ~ if it's a nice vehicle ... sometimes there is dealers at the auctions that will pay ALL the money and spend "out of the book", and unless it's a pre-sold or it's a specialty item, then it's not worth the $$ to me ... but as always, the nice clean low milers will always get Lot's more money ... and sometimes I will see some dealers not even pay the "going rate" for particular vehicles, they figure they can get the twin another day, another time .. -But- .. if it's your 5th trip to the auction to purchase the same vehicles and your going home with -0-, then there is probably a real good chance you don't know the market and your trying to steal something .l.o.l..
And just like Ebay, sometimes dealers (and private sellers) might have a "ringer" in the lanes that they are running their vehicles through, and in the heat of battle the last bidder might pay $500/$1,500 too much, I see it everyday .l.o.l.. the big difference is, on Ebay you have 5/7/10 days to make a decision, at the auctions you have 5/7/10 Seconds to make a decision ..
When your bidding on a vehicle on Ebay, bid in the last 2/3hrs or less .. this way you can study the "buying" habits of the last bidders, the history of the vehicle, get an idea of where the price is going, who's bidding against you, and even if there is a ringer in the pack, that doesn't always mean the price gets inflated, it's just means that the seller is real anxious ..
I hope this helps ..
Terry.
I think most of the selling prices on these cars are negotiated over the phone or by e-mail, and then posted in the auction. I know mine was.. I just picked mine up in Chicago on 12/20.
regards,
kyfdx
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I wound up being a high bidder and felt I was close to the reserve. I called the seller and made an offer a few hundred dollars over what my "winning" bid was. They accepted it. They made a new auction with a BUY IT NOW price of what I offered. I think I got a great deal.
I will agree that for many dealers, it's like advertising, or cheap advertising. I think eBay should discourage dealers from listing cars online - or make them pay more to list it. It was frustrating to know that I was dead serious about buying a car and the people advertising vehicles on ebay were not.
Another thing, I don't believe that you are obligated to buy that car if you get there and don't want it. By law, they couldn't keep your money. I don't know for sure however. I would think that if the car was crap, the worst case scenario is bad feedback and maybe suing them to get a deposit back. They may tell you that you can't get your money back, but I would think that if push came to shove, then you could get it back. Buying online is not a bad thing, and if you get a great deal, but it turns out you don't like the vehicle, you should have recourse. This is America. Everything is possible.
Looks like eBay is not a popular place to buy a car.
I saw some great prices on used Jaguars, most from dealers in Florida though.
Seems risky to buy a used car based only on photos though.
So many conventional alternatives where you can SEE, FEEL and DRIVE it first!
Pretend you have never heard of Ebay motors. Someone you DO NOT EVEN KNOW walks up to you and says, "Hey, I heard you are shopping for a car?"
You: "Yes I am"
He: "Here are some pictures and specs of a car I'm selling, it will probably meet your need."
You, taking the pictures. "OK let me take a look." (pause why you read and look.) "OK, when can I see it?"
He: "Oh, you can't see it, execept on those pictures. And you can't drive it, or touch it, or smell it, or sit in it, or even have a mechanic check it out. You just have to decide whether to buy it based on those pictures and the descriptions."
You: "You can take a hike, pal."
That is what would happen if a person tried to sell a car to someone who had never heard of buying a "sight unseen" car. That's what E-Bay motors is !!
It's just ridiculous. I would never do it, and anyone who buys a car like that deserves the risk they are taking.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Now, the guys that buy muscle cars from the '60s, send a check and have the car shipped to their home... that is just nuts..
Mostly, Ebay is just an advertising medium for dealers..
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Yes, but many times that is not possible or practical. Like if it requires a 4 hour flight to get there, etc !!
I personally wouldn't use eBay to buy a car, but it does offer more available cars for sale if yoou happen to be in a small market or are looking for an odd-duck car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I decided I would not buy a used car from a non-local eBay seller, no matter how high the feedback was.
Before you bid:
Ask lots of questions - How the seller responds and his eBay rating tells you what kind of person your dealing with.
Go see, touch, smell, kick tires, drive and have a mechanic inspect it.
Since I wanted something that's kinda rare eBay offered the best deal. I ended up getting my car for less than the seller wanted for it. That's called a win-win! Lots of things can be sold online and before the internet things were sold thru catalogs, so what's the difference? Not much! Just depends on how bad you want it.
I do admit that you can see a sampling of what's out there, I looked before buying my Eldorado Convertible, but I would NEVER buy a car unless I could at least get out and examine it myself.
Ant if you're sellling there, watch out for the phony certified checks, or the offer to pay you with a "certified check" for more than the sale price and giving the buyer cash difference, run away if that happens better yet, ask them to wait inside a minute while you call police.
It's a monthly "magazine" people, looks like a small phone book, with the real thin paper, & everything, but I have never been at a loss to find something there for my 1968 Cadillac.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
And yes, some imports are definately less well represented than the popular older domestics. Good lick with your Alfa.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'm talking about the fools who buy a car "sight unseen" using E-Bay.
That's just not too smart....
and trying to use E-Bay car prices as a "valid pricing model" is not so smart either. Cars sell all over the grid on E-Bay - some are good deals, others are highway robbery. Impossible to use pricing data when the prices are so "all over the board."
Better to use Edmunds TMV which is based on real data from real cars sold at real dealerships.
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Thanks
D
Terry.
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Last October I found a '98 Mustang GT on ebay being sold by a large used car dealership in Texas. I called them directly and we agreed on a price, $6990, over the phone. They shipped it to me in NC for $500.
About a week after I had the car I found out that the intake cross-over was cracked and leaking coolant, common amongst '96-'98 Mustangs. My local Ford dealership made the repair for $890, plus did the rear brakes which it needed. I complained to the saleman in Texas and he ante-up $500 for my troubles.
Now here's the good part. I decided to sell the car in late February and posted it on autotrader.com. This morning I get an inquiry for a guy that works for an insurance company telling me that the car was listed as a "total loss" by State Farm in May 2004! I emailed him back saying that I wasn't aware of this, nor was it disclosed to me at the time of purchase. Also, the problems didn't show up on the Carfax report that the dealer provided on ebay for free. I asked him to fax me the report that appears to be for the insurance industry and law enforcement. Well sure enough he was right the report lists when the accidents occurred, there's more than one, the claim #, place the accident happend and even the attorney who handled one of the accidents. None of these accidents showed up on Carfax then or now. Even the title which was sent to me, but is now with the lienholder, Capital One, does not show the car as being salvaged. I guess someone "washed" the title clean! Crooks!!!
I am going to call the dealership first thing Monday morning to discuss with them what was uncovered. I am going to give them a chance to straighten the mess out and if not I plan on making them miserable within the bounderies of the law of course.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm open to anything legal!!!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's what happens when folks are tripping over them dollars to get them dimes ...
Buying a vehicle "long distance" is not the smartest thing I've ever heard of .. did you check the vin# at the local Ford dealer before you bought it, did you do a title search.? .. did you fly out and put your hands and eyes on the vehicle before you signed the papers .? .. did you have the vehicle looked at real close once it came off the transport.?
I'm not defending the dealer, he may not been aware of the situation ~ but the paper trail will show if he was ...
But what the heck were "you" thinkin.? .. depending on the miles and the options (at the time) you paid wholesale $$ in October, so you certainly didn't get ripped off price wise - Your bells should have been ringing off the hook then ...
I dunno where your going with this one .. your in NC and they're in Texas, you've had the vehicle for almost 6 months and Capital One is holding the paper and the state of NC has acknowledged and rolled the title ..
Your probably the 900th person I've heard this kind of story from an Ebay transaction .. whether your buying a Rolex watch, a Louis Vuitton purse or just plaid seat covers, you should know what the heck your buying ..
When the price seems too good to be true, it usually is.!
Terry.
When I was looking at cars on Ebay, I just ignored listings from Texas...
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Worked up for nothing!
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Thats kind of an ol' Wives tale ... those days have been over since George W. stopped the 12 punch titles in 2000 ....
Terry.
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Now I could contact my insurance company to make sure it's insured and bring with me the tag from my current vehicle that I plan on transferring anyway and then drive it home. But "offically" it would not be registered in my state and technically I'd be driving an unregistered vehicle.
This seems like a difficult transaction to complete so that all parties involved feel safe doing business.
When you give them that check, you take the car home with you right then, not when the title comes back unencumbered... Just like they say.. Possession is 9/10ths of the law.. Even though you don't have the paperwork, one person gets the money, the other person gets the car.. That way, you aren't left holding the bag.. Paperwork issues are a lot easier to get fixed when you have the car in your possession..
I'm not sure how you will handle registration, etc.. But, if you fill out a bill of sale, you can take that and a copy of the current owner's registration with you.. That should suffice for a couple of days, until you can get to your DMV.. When you get back to your home state, you may be able to take all of your paperwork to the DMV and get a temporary tag (it works that way here).. which will be good until you get the title back from the bank.
regards,
kyfdx
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Granted I won't have an official Florida registration and if I get pulled over on the way here, I could have a problem, but that should be good enough to get home and wait for the title.
Bud .. you might have the car, the keys, the floormats, the owners manual and that little dog in the back window with the bobbing head ... but if you have no title, then you got Zippity Do Dah ......
**Possession is 9/10ths of the law..**
Yeah, maybe in Somalia .................
Terry.
He can sell the car without the title -- he just did, in fact! To you! -- but he can't sell the title without the car.
I will not hand over money without the title, unless I have a lot of trust in the person.
Back to the Control Room, training new Operators.
-Mathias