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Jaguar: Problems and Solutions

24

Comments

  • troy7troy7 Member Posts: 3
    I purchased my X-Type brand new in November 2002. It is a 2003. I have a total of 24,000 miles on the car.

    This past weekend without notice, the car started making a very bad noise. It sounded like a diesel truck. The oil light started flashing. Ironically, I was about a mile from the Jag dealer. I limped it there, was given a loaner, they said they would call.

    They called, needs a new engine, blown. 24K miles. They are telling me that unless I have proof of oil changes that it is not going to be covered under warranty. $10,000 to fix. I do not have proof, in fact, they are telling me that the original oil filter is on the car and that they have pictures to prove it. I just moved to Kansas from Florida. I had a complete shopping list of items that were wrong with the car when I took it for service in late 2003, I was also at about 9k miles at that time. I wanted and thought the 10K service was done at that time but apparently it was not. However, in looking at the service documentation today, they had done a S939 Campaign, Oil Cooler Outlet Hose, basically a recall. What does this do and could that have caused this problem?

    Basically, jag is telling me too bad. Blown engine, my fault.

    Take oil changes of the table completely. Car had oil, no indicator light ever until this problem. I find it hard to believe that essentially a new car with 24k miles that per Jag has missed two oil changes, would blow.

    I am look for advice, please help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So you have no recollection of an oil change in 24,000 miles? Aside from this recall, was there any other time you went in for service?

    You may need an attorney on this one, and perhaps he can work the oil cooler line angle for you. But without oil change proof, you are in a kind of tough spot here.
  • troy7troy7 Member Posts: 3
    I think I did, but can't find any records. The Jag dealer was quite a distance from the house. We usually utilize local services, oil, etc., when ever we pass something, blah, blah, blah. In addition, they say the original oil filter is on. One thing I know is that when I took the vehicle to Jag in Sept 03, I had a long list of items to be repaired, we did this in conjunction to the 10K service. I find now that the 10k service was not completed, nor documented anywhere.

    To me no matter what, a engine with 24k miles or 8k miles per year, should not blow unless there was no oil. For Jag this is an easy out to something I think is bigger than two oil changes.

    Can't prove it, so what do you do?

    Anybody want to buy a nice looking Jag?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What about a cancelled check or credit card statement for the 10K service?
  • troy7troy7 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know specifically what the cause and effect of this campaign is? This is for a 2003 X-Type.

    It states on my service record, the following:

    M Oil Cooler Outlet Hose S939
    Cause: Comply with S939 Campaign
    129211 X400 Engine Oil Cooler Oulet Pipe Hose
    TOTHERMOS TAT Housing Securing Clip
    Service Fix
    317 WARJ
    1 C2S-26989 Clamp-Hose

    I would really like to know why they needed to do this and if this could possibly be a cause to my blown 24,000 mile engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    could be if it could be shown to have been leaking. You should be able to see oil all over the place near the oil cooler.
  • edkunkeledkunkel Member Posts: 26
    Can the 04 Alpine upgraded stereos be retrofited with the new universal adaptor that integrates ipod and XM into the unit? Anyone know? Otherwise these 320 watt Alpines look the same ....
  • ekeinerekeiner Member Posts: 2
    Im taking care of a 2000 S-type with the V8 while my father in law is out of the country. He asked me to start it and drive it every 2 or 3 weeks to keep the battery fresh. I have been doing this for about three months. Today, the car would not start. He mentioned something about not jump starting this car because it could damage something so instead, I disconneted the battery cables and put my charger on the battery. After about 3 hours, the meter had not moved and it still wont start.
    So, two questions...
    What is the proper jump starting procedure for this car?
    and
    Is starting and driving the car every 2-3 weeks not often enough?
  • csjones24csjones24 Member Posts: 2
    Joe,

    Did you actually get a reply from anyone regarding your issue? I went out this morning and had the same identical issue with my 2001 Jag XJ8 except I can get the gear shift out of park.

    Connell
  • csjones24csjones24 Member Posts: 2
    My bad Joe, I didn't see this post. Nonetheless, I still have another question. Although replacing your battery was the fix, were your lights, horn, radio, etc. working prior to you replacing the battery? I ask becasue all of that stuff is fine with me.
  • ekeinerekeiner Member Posts: 2
    When the battery died on my 2000 S-type, all the lights, radio, seat memory worked, but it just clicked the ignition. I also got strange messages on the dash like 'both tail lamps failed"
    With the new battery it works great.
  • goodcargoodcar Member Posts: 4
    While it is truly unfortunate that you experienced a catastrophic failure with your Jag transmission, It is not the dealers fault that it broke(he didn't build or design the car), nor is it his responsibility to fix it after the posted warranty period. In fact, you were most likely offered the opportunity to purchase a service contract for far less than the cost of this one repair. You mentioned that there was a 30 day warranty. This implies that the seller thought highly enough of the car to gamble that he would not assume a several thousand dollar repair liability. Most likely as much or more than what they earned selling you this car.
    Their offer to help you fix your car is a very generous one. You should take their offer and be grateful that they are willing to do as much as they are. You have no leverage over them. You were offered a service contract and refused it. You signed an FTC buyers form stating that you purchased the car as is, or with whatever minimal warranty the dealer offered. Because you purchased the car as is, you undoubtedly had the car checked out by your mechanic. Why don't you ask him if he will fix your trans? As for the trans having 36k miles. Major components of cars at salvage yards come mostly from cars that have been purchased at salvage auctions. These cars have their mileage recorded by law. There is a very good chance that this trans has correct miles. The fact that the dealer is willing to go beyond what is legally required of him implies to me that he is honorable and trying to keep you from getting financially slaughtered by some other shop or dealer that owes you nothing, and is looking to make their rent and boat payments one you.
    My advice is to take what the dealer is offering and not whine. It sounds like he is trying to help you and not hurt you. As far as warranty on the transmission; that would be the salvage yards responsibility. If you have a reputable dealer, he probably deals with reputable sources. Many salvage businesses will offer extended warranties on their parts if you pay them a premium on the part. The dealer is paying someone to install the trans for you. If it fails in 11 months, he will have to pay someone to install another one. This is not complicated. You will be responsible for this expense. The $567.00 is a small amount to gamble for getting your car back in working order. You gambled more than that when you purchased your $15000+ car and declined to purchase an extended service contract. Fixing it at the Jaguar dealer could be $3500 or greater. Take what the dealer is offering and thank him for his help. He will undoubtably be a good source for you in the future when you need other service. Not that he is going to fix your car forever, but he can help you get service done at a reasonable cost. They do this for a living, and don't pay retail for car repairs. They have the connections that you don't.
    regards,
    Goodcar :)
  • robj2006robj2006 Member Posts: 1
    I have Jag S type 2001 and I can not get it out of Park. Were you successful in doing it?
  • sea3sea3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Just cane online to the site. Very interested in your experience with the Jag suddenly shutting down. This has happened to me 4x this year with my 98 Jag. I have called them and they claim that there is no recall and no noted problems. What did you do to resolve the issue. Thank you, Sea3
  • westykenwestyken Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 Vanden Plas. The heating/ac cooling fan motor does not work when I turn the switch (I cannot hear the air blowing anymore). I am planning to bring it to a dealer but am looking for any input that may prevent this always costly procedure. I had all the fuses checked out and they are fine. Thank you.
  • v12catv12cat Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    My 1992 xj40 3.2 has developed a strange problem....When the key is in the off position or removed from the car, the hazard lights flash !!! No way to stop them without disconnecting the battery. When i start the car they stop and the car runs perfectly........Think it might be a fault with the alarm system. Any ideas?,
    Thanks,
    Will
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    :( i have a 2000 stype and when i turn on heat i am only getting cold air unless i press accelerator can someone please advise on what to do thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First thing check your coolant level!
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    i checked coolant and its fine i checked fuses it seems like something may be clogged
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you added coolant lately or had radiator or hose work done recently? I'm thinking you could have an air pocket in the cooling system if it wasn't bled properly upon entry of new coolant.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    i had an oil change about 2 weeks ago and a fuel injection about a month and a half ago. i am thinking about getting a tune up do you think that may help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nah, if you haven't touched the cooling system then it doesn't seem like an air lock is the problem. Must be the heater valve then. How about strictly on defrost...do you get hot air then if you send all the air up to the windshield?
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    If i put on strictly defrost it defrost window but its still cool air. if i drive long distant the heat comes out but short distants or idile its cold
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, why don't you have the theromstat replaced if that's not too expensive. This sounds like a circulation issue, not a heater valve or controls issue. Get the highest temp thermostat they make for your car.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    ok is that something i have to go to dealership for or can i buy at auto store and get replaced. i'm pretty sure if i go to dealer i will be charged an arm and a leg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No I dont' think you can buy it at an auto store. As for installation, unless you are pretty handy you might have an independent shop do it then. Of course you can get a quote from the dealer....might not be so bad.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    ok i have one more question i'm not that smart when it comes to cars but what exactly would a tune up do for my car and also what will having all my fluids flushed out and replaced do for the car? and when you get a tune up do they flush out fluids and put new in
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well a tune up is a vague term these days...I presume they will replace expendable ignition parts and re-calibrate the engine. Theoretically the car should run better, get better fuel mileage and be more reliable, since worn spark plugs for instance are less efficient. Of course, today's modern cars don't need tune ups as frequently as in the old days, so most tune-ups are scheduled by mileage. If your mileage is such that a tune up is suggested by the maintenance manual, then you should probably do it.

    But as to what constitutes a "tune up"
    that is up for grabs---so you might very well ask the dealer to enumerate what he is going to do to your car and for how much.

    Fluid flush isn't part of a "tune up" but may be part of a "major service"---yet another totally vague term that can be used to gang up on you if you aren't careful.

    Basically it's your job to read over the list of scheduled tasks and make sure they don't pile on useless profit-makers, like "engine additives" or "body protectorants" or "fuel stabilizers", blah blah blah.

    Fluid flushes can be a good idea if it's been a long time for certain components. I'm a big fan of coolant and brake fluid flushes every 2-3 years.

    Check your owner's manual, it will tell you a lot about this.
  • newjagownernewjagowner Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1998 XJ8 with about 70K miles on it. It is just a
    beautiful car, actually my dream car :shades: , and the mechanic during
    pre-purchase inspection said it had been excellently maintained. But
    lately, as the season has changed and it has become colder- the engine
    takes some time to turn over. I have heard this is a common problem
    with Jaguars? Is that correct? And what is the reason for that? What
    should I do? I changed the battery and am assuming a tune up would
    help? Lastly, is there a website available that identifies these types
    of common problems with this model? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't see why a Jaguar of this vintage should be any more susceptible to cold start issues than any other car.

    Probably a good tune up and using synthetic oil will improve your situation. Synthetic oil is much easier for the engine parts to plow through when it's cold outside.
  • splashatlsplashatl Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 Jaguar S-type, and I think mine is doing the same thing. Sometimes I get a little warm (I mean a little) air if I put the heat on high and leave the level low, but it I raise the level the air gets cold. This just started as the weather got colder.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    i am also having the same problem i was told to replace the thermostat. i am a very busy perseon i wonder can i do damage if i don't replace
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's not good for an engine to run too hot or too cold but I guess if it's not overheating and if the temp gauge is more or less where it should be, you're probably okay.
  • millermanmillerman Member Posts: 2
    hey.. i have just finished doing alot of water hose work on my 2000 s-type 3.0 . i changed the main radiator hose , 2 of the hoses that come off the thermostat, new thermostat, new lower water hose, and now i dont overheat or anything but i cant get heat.. i have hot water going to my not sure what u call it... where the 2 heater line come off to go inside the car... not ot good with this stuff.. sry... what can be the problem... how do i fix that piece.. i cant even get to it
  • wagsjagwagsjag Member Posts: 1
    1998 XJ8 VDP Brake Switch/Limp ModeWhen my 1998 XJ8 VDP "check engine" light came on I was at a complete stop. We I accelerated forward I received an onboard message that read "transmission fault". It sent my transmission into "limp mode" or about 4th gear.

    Had it towed to the dealer and they said the cause of the "check engine" light was that I needed a new "brake switch" as for the "limp mode" of my transmission they said i needed a new transmission. My car has 103k miles on it and from all of the checking around I've done with transmission manufacturer's as well as technicians they say I should be able to get at least 180k to 200k miles out of this transmission.

    Does anyone know if the "brake switch" actually shuts down the transmission (by computer signal) or do you think I need a new transmission? I have not had any problems whatsoever or had any kind of sign that something is/was wrong with my transmission. PLease Advise ASAP~
    Thank You.
  • newby2newby2 Member Posts: 1
    i am thinking of purchasing a 2000 sv8 45K milage. good price great condition. but after surveying this site i am leary. the warranty is expired and i generally do nto purchase after market extended warranties.

    is this year and model a dependable vehicle?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    you definitely want an extended warranty if you can get one at a fair price--is my opinion. It's not so much that the car won't be reliable, but that IF there is a major repair, it can be staggeringly expensive. Basically an extended warranty is not a warranty but an insurance policy---they are betting the car won't break and you are betting it will.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    how do you which extended warranties are legit if you go through the internet instead of the dealer
  • gene123gene123 Member Posts: 7
    Want to know how leg room (front and rear) is figured in cars. I see the long wheelbase 2006 XJ Jaguars rear leg room is listed as 39.3", while a 2005 Buick Le Sabre had 39.9". The Edmunds editor's review of the long wheelbase Jags says there is 5 more inches of rear leg room than the regular Jags. What's the story?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's a good article from Edmunds on the subject:

    Understanding Extended Warranties
  • claypigeonclaypigeon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 XJ8 VDP that I bought used from the dealer with 16,000 miles in May 2005. It's still under the original factory warranty, bt has the extended 6-year 100k warranty as well. About a month ago, it started making a low pitched roaring noise once it hit 55 in regular mode. When I push the Sport mode button, the noise goes away. It does this consistently and the noise has gotten louder over time. When kept in Sport mode, the sound is fine. The dealer acknowledged a problem and replaced the transmission, but the noise persists. The dealer contacted Jaguar and was told this is a known condition and there is no fix. The sales manager at my Jaguar dealer drove the car and says the noise is terrible and he can't believe Jaguar won't come up with a fix. The dealer has had my car for over two weeks now while we wait for the regional rep to appear this week to look at the problem. The dealer has been courteous and even gave me a new 2006 S-Type to drive while the problem is under review. Has anyone else heard about this problem? Any idea what my options are if Jaguar can't fix my car? It's still under the original factory warranty. Thanks!
  • eastonstreeteastonstreet Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 XJ8. Runs great! Everything works. When the weather is warm, on start-up engine sounds as if it has been sitting a long time. Lifter noise. After I rev the motor to about 1500 rpm the there is a sound as if a solenoid or switch is kicking in. After that engine is quiet. When weather is cold, no lifter noise on start=up. After engine starts to warm up, lifter noise begins. When I rev the engine solenoid kicks in, and engine quiets down. I am wondering if one or both variable valve solenoids might be failing. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I love Jags,but I am familiar with muscle cars. I have built my own engines, but the Jag is a different animal. Thanks, Bill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm...I wonder if you are running the right weight oil. The wrong oil can bother variable valve controllers. Also off brand oil filters are a no-no.
  • stewartfeldmanstewartfeldman Member Posts: 2
    you're in good company with this problem. this happened to my '98 vdp with 45,000. i'm the former dealer principal at the jaguar dealerships in houston and after 15 jag vdp's, i've given up. the problem with the transmission is that ford specified a cheaper machined part in the zf transmission. many, many transmissions failed. i believe this problem went beyond jags. simply put, ford is broke and has been cutting many corners. look at the slow role upgrade of the jag dash. look at the outdated lincoln navigator. and now compare it to the lexus. it should be obvious that ford is cutting corners at every turn. one of those cuts was a $3 part which results in the transmission's failure. it doesn't make sense to spend $70 or $80k on a car from a company whose debt securities are rated junk. if you think corners aren't being cut, you haven't been in business. at least you're in good company with the transmission problems. jag will offer no help. my solution was to buy another lexus. unfortunately, ford isn't likely to survive as we know it.
  • eastonstreeteastonstreet Member Posts: 3
    I use Castrol GTX 10-30 motor oil. Also best filter available at parts store.I change oil every 3000 miles. Thanks, Bill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why don't you try a 5W multiple oil and buy the filter from the dealer and see what happens?
  • eastonstreeteastonstreet Member Posts: 3
    I will change oil again next week, and go to the Jag dealer and buy a factory filter. I will post a message if it helps or not. Thanks, Bill
  • 2001vanden2001vanden Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jaguar Vanden Plas. While I was driving the car last night, the steer wheel started to move in and out, up and down almost like a "ghost" was adjusting the steering wheel based on their size and need. In otherwords, the car was moving the steering wheel around all by itself.

    I ultimately parked the car and turned it off hoping that when I turned the car back on it would stop this strange behavior.

    When I did turn the car back on, it started immediately and the steering wheel commenced moving around on its own just as before.

    One thing new was discovered. I could not move the gear shift. It was stuck in park and the car could not be driven.

    I will be calling the mechanic tomorrow but would appreciate any thoughts on this.

    I am hoping that this is a simple fix - either the steering wheel memory malfunctioned or a blown fuse and that whatever the problem, that I or if necessary a mechanic can remedy the problem easily.
  • tms0407tms0407 Member Posts: 13
    when it rain i think water is getting some where and causeing the car to feel like it is jumping now check engine light is on. any suggestions or comments
  • carczarpetercarczarpeter Member Posts: 2
    First time on this forum but after reading the blogs I felt obliged to submit.

    Over the last couple of years we've had our share of late model Jags in our shop... First an S-type that needed the plugs replaced (under the intake manifold...great place to put 'em)... our mech replaced them but swapped the "UNMARKED" vacuum and intake manifold water lines and yep... you guessed it... hydrolock...!!! Blew the back (passenger side) rod through the block and pan... I'm still paying the bill for that one... thank goodness the local Ford dealer had the SHO piston, rod and bearings in stock... welded up the hole in the block & pan......What engineer puts identical hoses next to each other and doesn't mark the inlets (or make the GI-proof...!!)??? Next, a VDP comes in for water hoses.. again under the intake... requires about 2 weeks to get the parts... replace 'em... and gee.. it won't start... check compression... NO (or little)COMPRESSION, in any cylinders...!!! Checking around we find that 98-2000 engines lose their nicasil cylinder lining at about 50-75K miles... oil down the walls with 80-90 weight gear oil and wow... it starts...!!! Quick get it out of the shop before something else happens..!!! (amazingly the owners are still driving it... they just always make sure they start it once a day...!!!!

    Finally, day before yesterday my neighbor with a 1999 XJS calls with a no-start problem... we tow it in and find no compression on #1&#4 (on the drivers side)... bore-scope the cylinders and find the exhaust valves not moving... remove the valve cover and found the secondary timing chain broken because the plastic tensioner came unbonded from it's mount and jammed in between the chain and sprocket...!!!! Call the dealership in Houston who sez they've "had a bunch of those failures... parts are about $2200 (assuming no bent valves) and labor about the same... AllData shows 32 hours to change all chains and parts...!!! This is second "no-start" failure on this car.. last year, shortly after buying the car it was in shop having "paintless dent removal" guy massaging out a couple of dings in the left rear quarter panel and when we went to start it.. No start...!!! Had it towed to Houston (no Jag dealer here in Corpus) where they found a bad "body control module" had failed...!!! Just sitting there...!!!

    Another good looking, good riding late model Jag, sittin' by the road waiting for someone to take pitty on it...!!!

    Epilog...Local Jag expert just closed shop.. went into house building business... and, new sign on the front of our shop...NO JAG WORK ACCEPTED.!!!

    You decide... would you buy one...!!!!
This discussion has been closed.