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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2004+)
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Comments
Anybody ?? :confuse:
Thanx n advance
Warp
(17k miles since Jan.)
Thank goodness, that I can pack three kids in the back of a 2004 Honda
Civic Hybrid and get around without the minivan.
Parts are supposed to be in on Friday June 3, then I return to the Toyota
dealer Saturday June 4 for repair. I have since learned from siennaclub
dot org users that there is indeed a second air conditioning unit in the
rear of the sienna. I suspect that maybe Toyota did not design the
vehicle to withstand the flex of driving around mountain roads. This is probably
why the air conditioning lines separated in the rear of the vehicle. You will spot
oily fluid in the right side passenger rear wheel compartment outside the vehicle.
In terms of electrical problems- same guess, who knows what wiring harnesses
back there have been stretched out causing electrical problems to occur.
The vehicle has not been off road. In terms of steam coming out, that's hard
to say- could be radiator, but then you would see coolant on the ground.
If the air conditioning refrigerant leaked out, you could be seeing that in terms
of steam or condensation, but no fluid on the ground. Stay in touch. Thanks. -Brien
Hope that helps
:confuse:
lines in the rear of the minivan, and recharged the air conditioning system. The new
refrigerant leaked out. Additional new air conditioning parts are on order to arrive next Tuesday. In addition, the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold was seized up. A new
exhaust manifold is on order to arrive next Tuesday. Yet one more week without my minivan. I still can't believe that at 15k miles, the air conditioning fails, the oxygen sensor fails, and now a new exhaust manifold! Ridiculous.
Sorry to hear about your whoas. They sound very similar to ours except instead of an oxygen sensor our ECM went and the entire computer had to be replaced. I know these boards generally only generate negative comments but it seems like there are some fairly consistent themes that Toyota needs to address.
BTW we have had our Rear A/C system re-done TWICE in 17K miles. :mad:
I sent it to the dealer 6 times for repairing. Every time the slide doors started to rattle again in couple weeks after repairing. Last Wednesday, the technician tried everything he could. But he still couldn’t fix the rattle.
Would you like to share more your information? What are you going to do next? Contact Toyota or Dealer? These are thing I am thinking to do.
Thanks.
When spring came and we hooked up the camper, bottoming out happened at the slightest bump. Have been asking the dealer for solutions but they have not come up with anything in 2 weeks.
The pop up Gross Vehicle dry weight is 3000 lbs which is under the Toyota stated 3500 lb capacity. The dry tongue weight is 295 lb which is below the Toyota stated 350 lb limit. When we load up the camper, it will go slightly higher in weight but I don't believe over the limits.
Checked with good local hitch shop and they suggest air lift shocks that insert inside the rear springs. I have brought that solution back to the Toyota dealer since we want to go on a family camping vacation this next weekend. They have said they will install but there will be no warranty on this.
We just wish they would have had good information on this at the time of purchase and we would have bought a different vehicle that could have towed our pop up.
Anyone have any information or stories about success or problems with these air lift shocks?
Besides a very poor service experience around this, the noise that this squeal emits is terrible and for someone that took faith in Toyota on the first year of a new design, I am very disappointed. I knowingly am letting a poor dealership experience overshadow all of my Toyota experience.
Does anyone know if Toyota has acknowledge this engine issue?
I have over 40K on this car in less than two years and it has been great. Having a very high pitch squeal emit from the car in a parking garage at work, at a soccer field, or at church isin't good advertising for me or Toyota!
I would like to hear from other New Sienna owners about their experiences with the idle speed. This seems far from "normal" to me. It seems that putting it into gear at 1500-1700 RPMs would not be good on the transmission, and I've never owned a car in my life where I've had to wait 3-5 minutes before driving off. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
And by all means DON'T turn the stearing wheel just prior to or as you start the car.
Ken
Anybody with aftermarket experience?
I am currently preparing an e-mail to a service manager, in order to get more attention on the problems I am having with my Sienna. I agree with you that the uneven wear should come from mechanical problem rather than the tire itself. The optimum suggested cold tire pressure on my XLE Ltd AWD is 35psi, posted on the pillar of the driver side front door. I check tire pressure quite often at home with a quality pressure gauge and always follow the pressure and rotation guideline posted on the vehicle. On my Subaru, the pressure on the front tire is higher than the rear one. On my Chrysler T&C AWD, all are 35psi cold. I never have any uneven wear problem on the two AWD vehicles. On my Sienna, however, I found the uneven wear problem so early such that I had to mention the problem when the vehicle was in for the 5000 mile service. Did you find any written guidelines about the 2 week tire pressure check? If it is not written clearly then they cannot say that it is your fault. After 10k service (two tire rotations), two tires show more feathering patterns than the others. I am wondering if the driver side rear wheel is somehow related to the problem. Toyota repair manual suggests that any bad suspension parts have to be replaced if the toe-in or the camber are not within the specified value. I will post an update after talking to the service manager. Thanks.
I will carefully monitor the problem whether it has any relation with the gas level.
Thanks.
I would recommend finding good Toyota dealership with body shop, state to them that you will not accept aftermarket parts, and let them deal with insurance. That is what I did with MY OWN INSURANCE CO.
By the way, the Run Flats have been wearing very even. I have rotated these tires on my AWD every 8 to 12,000 kms and have not had a problem. I had an alignment done at 24,000 miles because of a slight pull to the left. Tire pressure was kept at (32 psi when I went in for an oil change; seems the boys see Sienna and automatically put in 32 psi even if they have to let some air out) 35 psi by myself checked every few months or 4000 kms. Tires however never leaked air. about 20,000kms the van was at full load capacity (as weighed on a Provincial hiway truck scale) and driven on long hiway trips.
They estimate that this will take 2 to 3 hours to service. Has this recall happened in the USA? If so why does it take so much time to install the tape? Did they refinish the door first?
Any info would be helpful before I call my dealer.
Thanks.
I have alot of experience towing: from utility trailers to small and large pop -ups and with travel trailers. I lost a bet years ago with a friend regarding trailer weights and tongue weights but the experience was most valuable and have won a lot of bets since then. Most people that tow trailers have little or no information about the subject 2 weights. They continually underestimate these weights. (I was out 150 lbs on my tongue weight and that is how I lost the bet.)
First of all, your tongue weight should be around 12 to 15% of the total trailer weight or else you will get trailer sway and /or bottoming out. The only way to really find out what the weight is, would be to weigh the trailer and the tongue weight. You can do this with a bathroom scale but it is detailed and frustrating. Find a truck scale somewhere and probably for $10 they will weigh your van front and rear axle separately and the trailer wheels and then the tongue weight. For the last one you need to unhook the trailer and rest only the tongue weight on the scale. If they have the capacity, a separate weight of each side of the axle would be helpful as well ( ie left wheel vs right wheel of each axle).
What you will probably find from this is some of the following.
- rear of van is carrying significantly more weight than front of the van.
- either side of van is carrying significant more weight than the other side.
- van is overloaded
- Tongue weight is not within the 12-15% of total weight of trailer.
- trailer weight is over the maximum for the trailer
- either side of trailer is carrying significant more weight than the other side.
You will probably find that re arranging some of your stuff can help in all situations except the overload. For this you have to remove some stuff.
You will quickly discover your problem for bottoming out and will not need to buy new shocks or springs. I use my 2004 AWD LE ( and 1998 LE in prior years) in maximum load conditions without bottoming out except on the rare stretches of hi way where you find the quick roller coaster uneven pavement. But my axle weights on the van are approximately 300lbs difference in weight front to back and the trailer is evenly loaded so that the tongue is within the 12-15%. ( No. I don't weigh it each time. You will find that with your pop-up you are taking almost the same items each trip.)
For those rare quick roller coaster uneven pavement, I use an air bag inside the rear coil springs. Should cost less than $75 in the USA and can be installed in 30 minutes by your friendly mechanic. I set the air pressure to a minimum 10 to 12 lbs and the only time these come into play is for this bouncing effect. The rest of the time, they just sit there waiting for the next roller coaster situation. Doesn't effect handling or ride of
the van.
ps don't forget that the tongue weight is part of the weight in determining the total van weight and also the total trailer weight.
Good luck.
They absolutely need to take the car back and give you a new one.Having a repainted hood lowers the value of the van. Good luck clover1.
My notice, among other things, states the following: "Please remove any personal belongings from the vehicle, especially in the door trim storage pockets, as the Toyota technician will need to DISASSEMBLE THE DOOR TRIM PANELS to install the protective tape."
1. AWD has 225/60R17 tires (27.63" Diameter) vs. 215/65R16 (27.00" Diameter) for FWD models. If body geometry for AWD=geometry for FWD, that means that AWD ride 0.32" higher than FWDs.
2. AWDs are equipped with RunFlat tires which because of their rigid construction, in response to road irregularities, deform significantly less than regular tires.
3. AWDs weigh about 200 lbs more and therefore most likely have stiffer springs.
There is one additional factor, which may be the culprit: unscrupulous installation. My hitch has total of six bolts (3 on each side), each of which require rather high 103 Ft.lb torquing, has lowest point about 9.75" off the level ground, and sits entirely under the bumper (I.e. does not protrude back from under the bumper).
I contacted my local Goodyear/Dunlop dealer, who told me that the Dunlop DSST tires have a limited warranty, because they are 'high-performance tires'-- and that Toyota salespeople don't know/haven't mentioned this minor detail to customers.
He did tell me that I could bring in the van for evaluation, and If--and only if--the tires were worn prematurely (but NOT unevenly), there is a replacement warranty for tires with fewer then 30K miles.
I'm not holding my breath, as I had winter treads on this van for half of the 25K on the odometer-- and this will be very difficult to prove. That being said, I'm glad my van isn't an Odyssey-- and my tires aren't PAX.
1. The OEM version of this Oxygen Sensor is ~$130.00. Are there any recommendations on which 3rd party brand is good and the best place to buy it at the best price?
2. Where is this Oxygen sensor located for me to change it? Be explicit. Accessible from the top or bottom of the car? Will I need a special wrench to unscrew it?
Thank you for you help
Turn the ignition key to ACC or LOCK with the odometer reading shown.
Turn the ignition key to ON position while holding down the trip meter reset button.
Hold down the button for at least 5 seconds until the odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.
If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.
----
Thanks in advance!
When I hooked up the trailer with a 4 inch riser I had about 4 inches of clearance and the safety chains almost dragged on the road! This is with the proper tongue weight. It was discouraging because the Sienna is rated to tow/carry up to 3500 pounds but the suspension design doesn't allow you to tow anything that heavy.
Earlier this month I found a reference on this forum for an airlift kit (air bags installed in the coils). I bought one from Summit Racing for about $85 (including 2nd day shipping). Installing the kit myself was easy. This kit solved my problem. The vehicle and trailer combo now rides level and I have adequate clearance for most road conditions. I just returned from a 750 mile tour of Yellowstone National Park and Northwest Wyoming and had no problems towing the trailer. The vehicle performed very well on mountain roads and passes and I averaged 20 mpg and in addition to the trailer I had 4 bicycles on the roof.
I have been very pleased with my Sienna. This is the third mini van we've owned. The quality is apparent in the Sienna. It rides great (compared to the Plymouth Voyager and Chevy Astro we had). There is plenty of room for our family of 5 and 1 large dog. It is a very comfortable vehicle. With snow tires we have no problems handling the snowy roads of Wyoming with the front wheel drive. In normal highway driving at 75mph I've gotten 28 mpg! Personally I don't think the AWD model is worth the extra weight and expense especially now that I've solved my towing problem.
1. The second week, NAV died, took 3 or 4 visits for them to finally replace the computer but the trims around the screen has been rattleing since, but service technicians cannot "reproduce" so we are living with it for the moment.
2. Ratles and squeaks from sliding doors (fixed) and the drivers side door (not fixed after 1 visit)
3. No transmission problem noted, and I drive it fairly aggressively as my wife does, who is the primary driver. We often surprise small hatchbacks and sedans when we out acelerate them. Come to think of it, I think I drive more sedately in my M5.
4. When steering is turned to right (close to the limit), it makes a fairly loud squealing noise, but again, service techs cannot "reproduce" after mentioning it during each and every visit (7 or so, so far for oil changes, fix rattles, etc.)
5. Bought FWD after noticing rough ride on AWD model. First thing I did was to buy a set of winter tire and steel rim set from the Tirerack and have not looked back. I have not had problem in 4 to 6 inches of snow, and I rarely see the traction system kick in. Obviously, I don't floor it in the snow. With the poor ride, the price and availability, and the mileage from the runflats, I am more than happy with having to replace the tires twice a year. I think it only cost $500 or so for the set. The OEM tires are wearing ok, so far, with 16,000 miles.
6. The seat heaters are so weak that it always goes to the "high" position so I have not noticed if it works on any other setting. BMWs we had heated up much faster and to higher temperature. Perhaps I will mention it the next time I go in.
7. The only TSB/recall I received was for the protected tape to prevent the rust on the doors.
8. Have not checked the brakes, but they seem to be fine, though it is very soft, compared to my Integra or the BMW.
9. Paint chip is a fact of life these days no matter what you drive. Most factories switched to water-based paint in the last a few years from oil-based paint due to environmental issues. Water-based paint is MUCH softer and chip/scratch easily.
10. With so many power/electric components, I purchased Toyota Care (0 deductible,
7/100,000 miles) for $800. Had to haggle a few minutes to get it down from $1500, using info. from this board.
11. Gas mileage since the purchase has been about 19.8 avg. We do about 60% highway and 40% city, I think.
Overall, I had about the same amount of problem with my 95 Integra (thank goodness for the extended warranty) but am disappointed with Sienna build quality. What is more disappointing is the dealer service. They seem to not care a whole lot one way or the other, which is surprising since there is more profit in service and parts these days. I go to Ourisman Chantilly (Northern VA) and used Fitz (MD) when I am up that way and they are both ok, but nothing to write home about. They pushed me to do 7500 and 15,000 mile services, but I declined as what they actually do is oil change, rotate tires (which I do at home) and "inspect" number of things, which one can easily do. I told them I just don't see the value in that, and not a peep after that. I will probably do 30,000/60,000 services at the dealer, even though it adds only a few more "replaced parts" than 15,000 mile service. My primary concern is that IF I have a power train warranty claim, they won't deny me on the basis of "not following" the recommended maintenance schedule. I do change the oil every 5,000 miles. FWIW would have bought a Lexus minivan if they had one, just for better service and attention to the customers.
I had far less problem and issues, actually none, with 2002 BMW 530 I just sold after 3 years, and I had no out-of-pocket expenses other than winter tire set, and the maintenance is covered for 4/50,000, brake job, oil change, even wiper refills. For $40,000, my wife and I would have been a lot happier with a 5-series wagon, but since we do drive my kids and parents together time to time, extra sitting was needed.
I'd have to seriously consider buying another Toyota. General perception is that Japanese cars in general, Honda and Toyota in particular, are less prone to major issues and economical, but I am hesitant to take my parents to look at any Toyota for their next car.
John
In the meantime, folks, turn down your JBL's and drive at 60-65 on level ground and listen. The whine will stop on deceleration and come right back upon acceleration. If you hear the noise, report it to your dealership and put some pressure on the factory before you scatter your transaxle all over the interstate.
This problem does not happen when not using cruise control. It will stay in overdrive unless the thew incline increases. Then it will downshift to 3rd gear - RPM is about 3K.
Is this a common problem? Going to ask the dealer to check it out when she takes it in for first oil change at 5K miles.
Even if you really have a problem, I bet your service advisor will simply dismiss it as a "normal operation" unless you can take him for a ride and really show him a serious problem.
Next time you are going up a hill, try manually ptting the gear into 4th and see if the car can adequately maintain the speed. If you have to give more than a small amount of throttle to do so, then under cruise control, it will likely try to jump 4th and go to 3rd. I am pretty sure ours does it when I am using Laser cruise as well, when there is a car in front of us and it slows down, and then when it tries to catch up.