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Comments
Jim
Yeah we're all ecstatic that you got a Honda :P
I'm talking about things that could be expected (and possibly prevented) with proper care and attention....
Change brake fluid at 30K (absorbs moisture which can affect master cylinder and calipers).
Change the coolant when scheduled at 30K and add Subaru's treatment (both to avoid possible head gasket leaks).
Change the timing belt at or before schedule of 105K (to avoid break which would ruin engine). Changing the belt makes several other items on the front of the engine accessible and they should be replaced at this time.
Hopefully the warranty addresses it, if not call 800-SUBARU3.
Most likely cause is failure of the radiator cap on main radiator. Check it carefully for seal, ensuring it has been screwed down correctly and that any rubber seals are sound.
They are fairly cheap to replace.
Next most likely is a crack in the boundary between radiator core and header tank. These can be hard to find for non expert. I had one years ago that opened up when engine running at high revs but was undetectable under normal conditions. Only realized what was going on when I backed off from full throttle and caught a windscreen of fine spray!.
Cheers
Graham
WRX was a reliable car, many sources can confirm that.
Your test drive failures are the 1st and 2nd I've ever heard for a WRX.
Hmm...did you drink the Kool-aid at your Honda dealer lately?
Over the last 3 weeks, my Subaru Forester 2006 w/45K miles has had these lights upon start up come on, blink a little and go off. Then come back on a few days later upon startup, same process. check engines blinks, sometimes with cruise, once with battery - goes off for a few days.
The car just past inspection Sat. The inspection mechanic says if the CE light ws on, it would have failed inspection. Since it was not on, it could be misfires and not to bother checking, just live with it.
I thought it could be a built-in 'mtn reminder', dealer says no. Wants $60 (discount, normally $120) to find out the code (yes, NY)?
Advice please !
Thanks
Are you noticing any obvious signs of trouble? Is the engine running rough? Stuttering?
I paid $99 and they're cheaper now, plus I've used it on 4 different cars, including to help friends.
Where did you pick up your code reader?
Thx
I've seen even cheaper ones but some of them can only read codes and not reset them, so make sure you get one that can do both.
With a code it's much easier to troubleshoot the problem, could be anything from a gas cap that's not air tight to a bad catalytic converter.
Quick acceleration borught the engine light on -- it has been doing that for number of years . Everytime its some issue with oxy sensrs. Tired of spendng at dealer.
Now the engine light is on. asked him to look at it and he told me the diagnostic will cost 70 more. I was hoping it was follow up to the earlier work he did.
Anyway, I want to get rid of the engine light. Any ideas. I got the code read at carx but the code did not vanish (it did last time the code was read). Is there a way to read the code so that it will vanish.
The O2 sensor is merely reporting a symptom, I don't think it's the problem, per se.
My guess is it would be a misfire caused by a bad spark - I'm thinking spark plugs, plug wires, or even the ignition coil.
Those are all cheap, the coil is about $80 but my 98 Forester only had one. Plus it's easy to change.
If unburned fuel makes it downstream, the O2 sensor will (correctly) report a presence of oxygen in the exhaust stream.
Catalytic converters are a normal wear item, so keep any car long enough and you can expect to replace one.
He did say it only came on with hard acceleration. Just baby it until it's traded in to the dealer or CarMax or something.
A dealer or a place like CarMax is supposed to do some reconditioning before reselling the car. They brag about their 120-point inspections and such.
Note I didn't suggest selling it privately.
which model did you get? I saw the amazon site and none of them mention any feature like clearing the code.
I just need a basic model which will also clear the code.
Will it cost lot to get it installed on new car?
thanks to you all for insight on selling prices
You have to put the picture on the Internet first, then put a link to it here. Just upload the picture to one of the many photo sites, like Picassa, PhotoBucket, Flickr, SmugMug, etc.
Xwesx, can you see the highlighted spots on the pics? I sent them to the servicing dealer for my mom's car this evening so the tech will know exactly where to look.
Hopefully, with this history, if your cars continue to have problems you will receive remediation, even if the standard 5/60 warranty period has expired (within reason!).
By the way, this particular dealer (not mentioning names) did the 30k a while back. They used a trans flushing machine on it and ran 16 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife ATF through it. I called Valvoline and was told Maxlife exceeds Subaru Type J specs. What do you folks think?
I would think that any time you are putting in a different transmission fluid, you should flush out the old fluid in order to have substantially, if not completely, new fluid in the unit. Were you using the same fluid, a flush would not be "necessary" unless the used fluid was burnt. I put 220,000 miles on my '96 Outback and never flushed the transmission, though I did change out the vast majority of it at about 144,000 miles when I pulled the engine the first time due to draining the torque converter (accidentally). I never had any problems with that transmission at all - it was absolutely perfect. I drained/filled twice while I owned it, but no flushes.
My own thought is that, depending on how the "flush" is done, damage is possible but not likely. If the flush is performed with the vehicle running and in gear, using the flow of the fluid through the system to pump out old fluid and replenish with new, it is not going to be damaged. As for how these machines do it, I do not know....
I agree with you on the flushing..... do it when it is necessary.
Funny, the dealer I now go to is the one that spotted mine in the first place and mine looked nearly identical to her car. I have a feeling they're going to balk at covering but I will reserve judgement until I hear from them.
Any of you folks with an 06 check yours? By the way, the date of manufacture on my car is December 2005.
Subaru has always known the cause to be the open deck engine block. They are changing to a semi-closed deck for the diesel, which requires a different more expensive casting process:
"The BOXER DIESEL adopts a semi-closed cylinder block deck to improve the rigidity around the head gaskets..."
http://www.boxerdiesel.com/engineering/en/index.html