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That being said, yes, you can have the wheels trued and painted, or even powdercoated, which is a very durable finish.
a rare Ferrari, so maybe no big deal.
The stock rims are quite nice actually. If you've never seen powdercoating you really should check it out.
I'm replacing the current 14" rims with a newer MB 16", and want to fill the fender gap as much as possible. Was thinking 225x60x16, but wasn't sure. any ideas anyone???
It's got an automatic,and I know that lacking a modern torque converter,it shirts very rough.In the few I've driven in the past,I've always been so overly light on the gas pedal-that's how much the rough shift seems like impending doom.Are these old automatics best avoided?What do you think of the car I've described?What would be a good price to offer the seller?
As I say,I really would just want the car to last as a fun weekend car.Thanks for any advice you or anyone elsecan offer.
How much oil?
How much rust?
You might pull up the spare tire and see how bad it is (I'm sure you'll find rust there or the sign of former rust).
If the rust has been bondo-ed, it will return, absolutely...the only way to properly repair rust is to cut it out, and even then it comes back sooner or later.
You can test for bondo with a simple refrigerator magnet...if the magnet falls off, you have a lot of bondo in there...
Bondo was never meant to be use thickly...it is supposed to be a thin sheet of covering for file marks and small imperfections. If the bondo is any more than say 1/16 of an inch, it will crack and fall out soon enough.
So I think you need to dig a little deeper here and also figure out how much oil this car consumes. Oil burning isn't bad, per se, if it's not excessive...but if it's eating a quart every few hundred miles, the end is probably near.
I think what kills convertible tops, aside from the obvious (cats and automatic car washes) is in the top storage. It can't be stored wet and it can't be stored dirty. As for the plastic window, my rule of thumb is that you get two plastic windows for each top, that is, one top willlast the life of two windows. They are fregile and there is only so much you can do. Some folks put a very light cloth on the window before they hit the down button, and this keeps the window from "kinking".
But scratches, well, you're going to get them sooner or later.
Another enemy of plastic windows in the sun, but fortunately for your car when your top is down it is automatically stowed under a cover. But if you leave a plastic window exosed to hot summer sun day after day, you'll fry it.
What kills convertible tops in a car wash is not the detergent or brushes but the force of the blowers that dry the car. It causes the top to flap and vibrate and loosens the stitching.
Unfortunately, I have to start out with a very stupid question....What is the difference between an SL and an SEL? (yah -- I'm a chick) I have just started looking at Mercedes. I know I like the look of the 420SEL (81 to 87), but when reading some of these posts I am getting the impression that it might not be too good of an idea with gas prices and the cost of repairs. (any ideas on which model minimizes both?)
My question is, what would be the best bet between the 300 and 560 series, both SL and SEL. I don't necessarily need a V8 if a V6 is still going to provide reasonable speed and handling. I'm looking more for comfortable cruising rather than quick off the line. I would like to spend no more than 10k and would like to find one with 115k miles or below. Am I being reasonable?
I know enough to make certain that the seller has the maintenance book, or at least a reasonable amount of the service records, as the key to the future health of the mercedes is its past maintenance....right?
Oh yah, I should mention that my reason for getting this car is to eliminate a car payment and to have something bigger/safer the the VW Jetta I have now, as I will eventually be transporting a baby around.
Thanks so much in advance! I appreciate your help.
An SEL is a sedan, a stretched version of a regular 4-door. So if you want a BIG 4-door, that's any of the SELs.
SLs are 2-door convertibles, usually with both soft and hard tops.
The best SLs are undoubtedly the 560SLs. Earlier SLs, such as the 350, 380 and 450, are decent cars, and often quite cheap to buy, but they can be slow, gas-hungry and not so reliable as they age.
All Mercedes cost a bundle to repair, there is no way around this except buying the most impeccable, clean, well-maintained car you can.
There is no shortage of Mercedes SLs on the market. You can take your time shopping. Any car with a "story", or any owner who cannot present a complete or reasonably complete record of service should not be considered.
Also, despite the reputation for durability, Mercedes wear out just like any other machine, so excessive high mileages should be avoided. If you see an exceptional high mileage car, you should only buy it if it is heavily discounted. I would say mileages exceeding 150K are excessive, and mileages over 125K are borderline. You have to remember that a rebuilt engine for a Mercedes SL will often exceed the value of the entire car! ($!2,000-16,000 for a complete rebuild).
Last of all, I don't see this as a move toward economy for you, if you are moving out of Jetta payments. With maintenance and the occasional repair, the difference per month between a new car under warranty with payments and a used SL with repairs and maintenance is not going to be very much IMO....if you are lucky, you might save $100 a month, but then again, you might not. All used cars are gambles.
Really last of all (phew!), I could not say with any confidence that an older Mercedes SL, say without air bags, would be substantially safer than your Jetta. Accidents are dynamic and unpredictable in outcome....you really can't 'buy" safety, it's often a matter of luck.
Anyway, if having a convertible isn't such a big deal for you, and you're content with a coupe or sedan, you might think about a newer and smaller Mercedes sedan, like a 300 series, or a luxury Japanese coupe such as a Lexus. An SL is not a cheap car to own.
Given that, I know I want either a 1985 380 SEL (is this the only year they made 380 SELs?), or a 81-87 420 SEL, 500 or 560 SEL. Am I better going with a 380 due to lower maintenance and gas costs, or is it not as good a car?
Also, what about diesel -- the 300 SD, should I steer clear for any reason?
I don't mind minor headaches. Is there any reason other than getting a not well maintained car that I could anticipate spending more than $2000 a year on maintenance? (That is half of my current annual car payment) I'm figuring $650 for annual fluid drain, or whatever they call it, 4 or 5 oil changes a year at $40 each or $200 and then $1200 in misc. This of course being on a car that has 110k miles or less starting out.
Again, thank you. I should have been a little more upfront about my excitement at the possibility of owning a nice comfy, classic looking car. Please give me your thoughts, I appreciate it.
The 300E Series would be a nice choice. The problem with the 420 and 500SELs is that they are HUGE cars, and parking or maneuvering in traffic could be a real pain.
Many seem to feel the various S-class sedans 1981-1991 were a high point for the marque.But they are quite large,and,indeed,the air conditioning typically goes south.The six cylinder SEL,the 300, is a good one.I've heard the first all aluminium 8,the 380,is troublesome.The last generation S,1992-1999,are rather ponderous-notice the current ones have been pared back.The Sd is 4 inches shorter in the back seat,and therefore a bit more maneuverable.The diesel is bullitproof,but noisy and a little truck-like.
The smaller E-class is more reasonable in every way,but they lacy the presence of the larger S-class.
How about a 1990 300SEL?
Given your advice, I know where to begin looking and comparing. I'll take a look at the 90 300 SEL, as well as try to find a SD, which I am imagining are a bit more scarce. I'm glad to hear about the issues with the climate control in the sedans. I was wondering why some of the ads I have seen make specific mention of the AC working well.
If you don't mind, I may eventually be back with more specific questions as I narrow down my choices.
All the best and thank you again.
You should remember that Mercedes prices drop DRASTICALLY if the cars are not absolutely spotless.
A perfect '88 560SL can sell from $23K-27K....so less than perfect? Low 20s on down.
Been reading through the bulletin board postings and noticed that you have an affinity for the 560SL. I happen to own an '89 and am in the process of selling it. Getting lots of calls, but nothing serious. It's in excellent condition both mechanically and cosmetically, but has 150K miles. Valve guide seals were repaired at 120K. I love the car and hate to sell it, but I'm a family of 4 now and it's very impractical. Could hang onto it as a classic, but it wouldn't get driven much. Can you give me some advice on a fair asking price? I know you suggest a deep discount once the car has reached 150K. Just how deep?
joanfy
But that's not your problem! YOUR problem is selling your car.
Yes, high mileage is a discouragement to buyers, there is no doubt about it. Maybe if you gave me an idea of what you have been asking, I could suggest some negotiated price.
Also a factor is the car's cosmetic appearance (more important than how it runs, sad to say but true) and also your maintenance records---these are additional factors that will determine price.
So give me some more info and maybe we can come up with a strategy. Also, what is your approximate geographic location? (If you are in a climate with a "long thermometer", these cars are harder to sell at summer's end.
Haven't logged in for awhile 'cuz I was having a baby instead. Now that he's here, I'd love to get my garage back. It's tough loading and unloading the kids on a hill.
So, if cosmetics have anything to do with it, I should have no problem unloading this 560SL. No door dings, no dents, no tears in the leather, new rag top, no rust, a little paint touch up on the hood. It's excellent, excellent, excellent!! Retail blue book is $20K and wholesale is $12K. We've been asking $17K, but would be happy with $15K. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, so the weather should hold out for another couple of months.
I'm getting lots of calls, but no lookers. Look forward to your reply.
You should be able to sell for $15K. I have some ideas...e-mail and I'll send you a list of people to contact and cheap places to advertise.
Pricing on some would shock you....
That being said, if this car is really in excellent cosmetic shape... It could still do $10-11K at a dealer auction, so Ithink that $15K is realistic if its' ready to go...
(I've seen some VERY low mileage ones do $27-33K at auction (Wholesale).. but then we're talking 30K or less miles and as new. In reality, a 15-20K mile car that basically can't be told from new.
Shocking $$ when you think about it..
Bill
The allure of an older Benz with such few miles is irresistable I guess, but personally I think paying a premium for low miles is rather foolish.
If you drive the car, the miles go up and the price plummets to the usual $18K-25K range for super sharp 560SLs...if you don't drive the car, what is the point? The V8 SLs are not going to be classics (too many made) so holding on to one for an "investment" is better for a 3 year old than for you, because it's going to be a long, long time for that car to appreciate in value.
Thanks
tony114
My wife's grandfather just died and left his 450SL to the family (trust, not will). I need to find out what this baby is worth to help estate matters:
It's a '78 with ONLY 15,846 ORIGINAL miles on it. This beige/cream beauty with tan leather has never seen the road on a rainy or even humid day. I mean it's 100% pristine with only a perfectly replaced dented bumper against its record. It has both soft and hard tops, and auto trans (probably only came w/auto, right).
Car was appraised for insurance maybe ten years ago, but I need to know how much it's worth now. Short of getting another professional appraisal, I'd like your opinions, ballpark figures, and ideas for other sources. Your help is greatly appreciated!! --Dave
So you see the dilemma--convincing someone to pay very much extra for low miles on a car that is not going to appreciate in the future.
I'd say the best you can hope for is the very highest range of these cars currently, which is about $13,500 for a real beauty, and then add a bit onto that for the exceptional low mileage...so maybe $15,000 is all the money in the world for this car.
You can ask more certainly, but if you really want to sell it in a reasonable amount of time, I don't think there's any more money in it.
One reason is that if you go any higher, you are in 560SL territory, which looks like a 450SL but is a much more refined and developed car.
Also, the color is unfortunate and may hurt value.
I have even looked at Amazon.com and they don't have one. I have found all the 450's, but I need a 560 for the tune up aspect. I also need the manual for the front end and steering box details. Is the 450 manual OK to use for the steering box and front end work???
Tony 114
But if in fact this is the case, I suggest you write to MB customer assistance center, One Glenview Road, Montvale, NJ 07645
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