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Cadillac DTS Electrical Issues



  • I suppose the dealer sometimes knows what might cause a problem because they are exposed to more vehicles than just the one that you (or I) drive. My dealer re-programmed the remote key entry system and did something with the OnStar module attempting to find my problem, but these "fixes" didn't solve the problem. I would think that if a module was malfunctioning it would drain the battery, but that was never the case--like you, the battery would magically come back to life at full charge. At one time I thought perhaps the battery had a cracked intercell connector. I'm still not sure this wasn't part of the problem. The other symptom I had that you might check: my battery charging voltage, as indicated on the Driver Info Center under the speedo, would constantly vary. Sometimes it would charge at as much as 15.9 volts, other times only 12.3 and it was never constant...always moving around up and down. After the ground cable fix, it was steady as a rock at 13.8, just like every other car I've ever owned. A friend of mine who works at a local Buick dealership said they've had some similar problems with Lucernes.
  • Thank you for your many emails re: problems with the caddy DTS. After six trips to the most unhelpful dealer (Coleman Cadillac, Bethesda, MD) where they blamed it on Onstar and finally on my Mother, she went to a lawyer. He sent a letter to GM and their customer dis-service person contacted my mother via phone and email and basically said it was her fault. No wonder they went bankrupt!

    Through the lawyer, Mom found an excellent independent mechanic, Gili's Automotive, Rockville, MD. Gil did a complete diagnostic workup, including checking out the Onstar program. He said there were "several" computer updates from the manufacturer that had not been downloaded by the dealer. There were also some problems with the electrical system not being grounded correctly. Needless to say, Gili's fixed the problem - she has not had any problems since. She also takes the car to Gili's for regular maintenance as the cadillac dealer is totally unreliable.
  • effeeeffee Posts: 8
    I noticed recently that the lights inset in the front bumper do not come on when the headlights are turned on. Is there something you have to do to turn them on or is it an electrical failure? Thanks in dvance if anyone can help.
  • Previously posted messages no crank/no start. Dealership and GM believed the problem to be a module. I kept telling them it sounds like a grounding issue. Eventually, the electrical would die completely while driving and then 10 seconds later electrical would come back on. No speedometer, no power windows, no power locks, no gas guage reading, etc. Display would flash all kinds of crazy messages.

    Apprently they listened and looked harder and found under the steering wheel lower dash a wire had its insulation rubbed through and was grounding. Apparently the wires are not routed correctly causing rubbing. Apparently Cadillac DTS 2006 has had prior problems with this (they found out from GM after mine was disagnosed) however there is no TSB at this point. Apparently there should be at this point.

    They fixed the problem and now I am happy. I was losing my mind with the intermittent problem. Good luck with your problem.
  • keesh5keesh5 Posts: 1
    I've been haviing this problem since last summer with my 2002 DTS the blower for the heat and air condition comes on when it wants some times not at all. It has to be electrical cause I could slam the door and it would come on full blast that no longer works can any one help?
  • denbossdenboss Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS that when it sits for a week the battery went dead. It went to the dealer 4 times and they said they checked everything out and said it was the radio memory that was draining the battery. So they put a switch under the dash to cut the radio off when parked. This did not work and you also lose all your preprogramed stations.The real reason is that the ON STAR system is draining the battery as it communicates with the car all the time. When you open the door it thinks you are going somewhere and runs a check on the whole system. The dealer WILL NOT disable the ON STAR no matter what you say. If you leave your DTS at the airport while you are on a 2 week trip to Europe you will have a dead battery when you return. If you use the car every day you will be OK, but if it sits the only recourse you have is to put a battery kill switch on the car. You will lose your radio stations but your battery will be OK. This is not a easy task as the battery is under the back seat and you don't want to keep lifting the seat out to turn on the switch. You need to run two cables from the battery to under the hood where you will mount the switch. It cost me about $200 to have this done but it sure was worth it. I like the car but it is going BY-BY when I can afford to dump it and buy a non-ON STAR car. I have always had Lincoln Towncars that sat for months that always started right up. So give up on the dealers as they will jack you around forever and never solve your problem except tell you to drive it more.

  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    I had the same problem for the 1st two years I owned my '06 DTS. After 4 batteries
    and many service calls I had to utilize the Lemon Law to get it resolved. The
    car has been fine since.
  • Hello,

    I am trying to install a back up camera system on my 2008 DTS and I need to know what the color code is for the back up lights wires leading into the tail light module. I find a yellow, yellow/white, purple, green, black, and one color that I don't remember right now. I'm trying to find the positive and negative colors for the back up lights. Anyone able to help?
  • I have a 2006 DTS with 37,000 miles and I'm getting a Service Air Bag message when I start the car. Does anyone know where I can take the car to get the error codes from the system other than a dealer? I would like to try to fix this problem myself if possible. I'm in the Detroit Mi. area. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,875
    sometimes (often actually) a store like Autozone or Kragen/Oreilly will read these for you for free. Tell us the code and we'll advise you further.

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  • I have tried Auto Zone and other parts stores... they only have the ability to check for engine failure codes. they don't have the electrical stuff. It may be I will have to go to a Cadillac dealer. I did go to a GMC dealer and they said they didn't have the codes/reader for a Cadillac ... was very surprised that GM / Cadillac keep car lines so segregated. I would have thought that other car lines would share the some computer/system codes.
  • Bought my 2006 DTS last fall. It is my road car, not used around my mountain village, just on trips "off the hill" of some miles. The car sits for days and sometimes, weeks at a time. I have high security and routinely just get out of my cars and leave the keys in them. On the cars I don't use but a few times a year (Silverado and Corvette) I maintain batteries with Harbor Freight battery tenders... work great.... But back to the DTS.... my battery has been going dead and I've done all the regular trouble shooting, including reading the forum. My mechanic did the ground scraping and such and it still went dead. I have put a new battery in the car, even though a few weeks before the old battery was indicating an ok condition after I had AAA jump the car and I had driven it 80 miles back to my mechanic's garage. So I kept trouble shooting and I think I have got the answer. You need to lock the car to shut down the electrical systems between driving the car. If you don't lock the car, a lot of the electronic systems keep running. To test my theory I locked the car for a week after I had installed the new battery. When I unlocked the car and started it up it had the full 14.5 amp registering. For the last three days I have left the car unlocked in the garage. The amps have dropped to 11.5 and the while the car started, in just three days a bunch of "stuff" inside our cars is pulling amps. I realize that a lot of the folks that buy DTS's are older and only drive their cars occasionally.... and while I am older, my circumstance has me in that same "light," though i love the performance of the car.
    Would appreciate thoughts on my theory.... I am still going to test it further, when I have a chance to let the car sit for a full week... then I'll leave the car unlocked with the battery charger standing by.
    As a final note, when I get in the car I hear a very faint wurrring sound, a space, then the sound again.... and it might continue but by then I have started the car. That same sound can be heard when I get in my lady's 2007 Yukon. She makes a habit of locking her car every time she is out of it. Her battery is 4.5 years old with no sign of weakening.
  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    Interesting approach. Will give it a try.
  • Our keyless remotes do not work on our 2007 DTS after being away from the vehicle for a short period. Once you unlock the door using the key the remote will once again work. Or, if the door is already unlocked, all you need to do is open the door and then the remotes will work. Basically this means we cannot pop the trunk or remotely start the car until we open the driver door or unlock the driver door. Anyone have the same issues or know of the problem and how it needs to be fixed? The dealership tried to reprogram the remotes and thought they fixed it until we walked away from the vehicles for a few minutes, came back, and same problem, didn't work.
  • pal9pal9 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS and gone through 4 batteries since July 2006.
    I usually leave the car unlocked in the Garage, from now on follow your advice and plan to lock it.

    Have you found anymore on this issue since your Feb. 13, 2011 post? Thanks.
  • rjredondorjredondo Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS and Here is my problem, my fuse that operates the cigarette lighter's front and back blew the other day, it requires a #15mini fuse, so I replaced it and it was fine for a day, then it blew again, so I took a look at it and found the fuse was bad once again, I thought maybe I replaced the fuse with a defective one, it happens, the fuse box is located under the back seat next to the battery, anyway I replaced it again and it blew right away soon as I put it in the terminal, and the connector's on the fuse were very hot. Now none of the other fuses in either fuse box (under hood), or (under seat) have had any problems. Have you heard of this, and if so what was the problem, and solution, thank you.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    I suggest you post this in our Answers section here:

    Several members with mechanical expertise read questions there, and this sounds like an electrical system issue. Once you have posted there, just go back to answers and click "my answers profile" to check for responses.


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  • I am experiencing the same problem, did you find a solution?? Thanks.
  • ludloludlo Posts: 2
    I too have had this problem for the last 4 years. I also kept going to the dealer and getting blown off. I finally just bought a spare battery and keep it and a set of jumper cables in the trunk. This way I dont get caught off guard. On the other hand, I watch the volt meter and if it starts to register higher than 14.5 V, I clip a small charger to two wires I have attached to the + and - terminals of the battery ( being sure to keep them separated !!!! ) and let the batttery charge over night. This seems to control the problem. You might also be sure that there is not a CD in the player. I have a hunch that that continues to spin even when the key is off. Otherwise, its a new Acura for me the next time !!!
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