Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Cadillac DTS Electrical Issues

2

Comments

  • kenb757kenb757 Member Posts: 149
    So any pending buybacks under the lemon law are no longer valid if started or settled before Friday? I know the accident lawsuits that were placed before bankruptcy, both settled and pending are now against the "bad" GM. And good luck in that, as there are very few assets there. Wonder if you can withdraw and subsequently refile?
  • merkownermerkowner Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 dts with 60000 miles that I purchased a month ago with a clean car fax. I drove it for a month problem free.One day the car would not , start so I jump started it and got it to the mechanic . He said I need a new battery He installed it and on the way home I stopped at a store when I tried to start it it would not start so I jumped it and got it back to mechanic Any Ideas as to why it wont start even with a new battery ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So you say he put in a new battery, you drove a short distance, it would not start, BUT you were able to jump start it?

    Then the new battery isn't any good or the cables are corroded or loose.

    If you had a bad alternator, even a jump start wouldn't have gotten you going very far.

    Maybe he didn't charge the battery properly prior to selling it to you.
  • conkedconked Member Posts: 14
    I had a similar problem with a 2006 DTS and found the trouble to be a poor ground from the negative side of the battery at the floor under the back seat. The floor and the threaded hole where the cable is attached had the same paint finish as the exterior of the vehicle so the ground would come and go. This also caused strange charging voltage fluctuations on the instrument panel battery voltage indicator. Once I cleaned the paint off the floor and put a star washer under the cable end, the problem disappeared.
  • merkownermerkowner Member Posts: 3
    Bingo a frayed ground wire led to some grounding issues. ty fixed and back on the road
  • conkedconked Member Posts: 14
    Anyone with a similar problem--if the ground cable looks good you might also check the connection at the engine module, under the hood. A mechanic friend of mine works for a local Buick/GMC dealership and indicated that they occasionally see corrosion at the engine module (positive) cable from the battery. Cut back the heat shrink at both ends of the cable (under the seat and under the hood) and be sure there is no corrosion under the heat shrink or under the terminal connections. On my 2006 DTS one end of the positive cable was crimped, the other end crimped and soldered. The ground was crimped and soldered at the battery end but not at the chassis end. I ended up soldering all of the cables at both ends: ground cable, engine module cable, and the smaller body module (under the back seat) cable. Never had a problem after doing all that.
  • cadymancadyman Member Posts: 3
    CADDYMAN HERE I HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH THE SAME PROBLEM SINCE JAN 2007. DEAD BATTERY THREE TIMES. I WENT TO A LOCAL DEALER THE 3 TIMES IT HAPPENED. I DECIDED TO TAKE THE CAR BACK WHERE I BOUGHT IT.AND LET THEM CHECK IT OUT.THEY REPAIRED SEAT MODULES. REPROGRAMMED DOOR MODULE AND RAN UPDATE. THEY SAID THEY WERE NOT SET WRIGHT.ITS ONLY BEEN A MONTH. WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
  • usabravousabravo Member Posts: 3
    :cry: 2006 DTS Performance with 11,600 miles. Went into the store and came out turned key to start position and light on dash went on and nothing happened--car would not start, no clicking, no nothing. Half of the electrical seemed to work. Door locks and windows would not work nor keyless remote. Dash was displaying messages such as service parking assist, service air bag, left rear door open. Tow truck was called and battery was in fine condition, DTS towed to Cochran Cadillac Pittsburgh. While removing car from flatbed tow driver turned key and vehicle started. Dealer checked it out and said there was a loose ground.

    I took vehicle home all fine for about 30 miles running around town. Park in drive way on 10 degree slop and came back in the morning turned key and nothing happened same as before. Tried several starts within an hour after--nothing. Tow truck arrived again and this time driver tried starting the car--and it started!! Not consistent. Took vehicle to dealer and all the bad codes are back again (cleared on the first repair) and they are stumped because the vehicle starts and they cannot duplicate the problem. Any suggestions...............
  • conkedconked Member Posts: 14
    I had the exact same issue several times on my 06 DTS. Here is what I did that seemed to have solved the problem. Disconnect cable from battery to ground. Clean paint off floor around ground connection. Cut heat shrink away from negative and both positive cables at battery, other end of positive cable at module under rear seat, and positive cable at engine module (passenger side under hood). Soldered the crimped connection at each of these cable ends and taped the heat shrink back on (this requires a pretty stout soldering iron because the cables are rather large). Clean all connections with contact cleaner. Reinstall all the positive cables and reinstall ground cable at floor with a star washer under the cable. After doing all these things I never had the problem again. :)
  • usabravousabravo Member Posts: 3
    Dealer claims this is not the problem and that General Motors tech. is now saying it is somehow tied into the Onstar module. They are going to disconnect the module and want me to drive the vehicle, and if it corrects the problem they will replace the Onstar module. If not it is back to the drawing board. The problem is, as you know, if the vehicle does not start it must be towed each and every time--a jump does absolutely nothing as the battery is in great shape!
  • conkedconked Member Posts: 14
    I suppose the dealer sometimes knows what might cause a problem because they are exposed to more vehicles than just the one that you (or I) drive. My dealer re-programmed the remote key entry system and did something with the OnStar module attempting to find my problem, but these "fixes" didn't solve the problem. I would think that if a module was malfunctioning it would drain the battery, but that was never the case--like you, the battery would magically come back to life at full charge. At one time I thought perhaps the battery had a cracked intercell connector. I'm still not sure this wasn't part of the problem. The other symptom I had that you might check: my battery charging voltage, as indicated on the Driver Info Center under the speedo, would constantly vary. Sometimes it would charge at as much as 15.9 volts, other times only 12.3 and it was never constant...always moving around up and down. After the ground cable fix, it was steady as a rock at 13.8, just like every other car I've ever owned. A friend of mine who works at a local Buick dealership said they've had some similar problems with Lucernes.
  • sharon26sharon26 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your many emails re: problems with the caddy DTS. After six trips to the most unhelpful dealer (Coleman Cadillac, Bethesda, MD) where they blamed it on Onstar and finally on my Mother, she went to a lawyer. He sent a letter to GM and their customer dis-service person contacted my mother via phone and email and basically said it was her fault. No wonder they went bankrupt!

    Through the lawyer, Mom found an excellent independent mechanic, Gili's Automotive, Rockville, MD. Gil did a complete diagnostic workup, including checking out the Onstar program. He said there were "several" computer updates from the manufacturer that had not been downloaded by the dealer. There were also some problems with the electrical system not being grounded correctly. Needless to say, Gili's fixed the problem - she has not had any problems since. She also takes the car to Gili's for regular maintenance as the cadillac dealer is totally unreliable.
    Sharon26
  • effeeeffee Member Posts: 8
    I noticed recently that the lights inset in the front bumper do not come on when the headlights are turned on. Is there something you have to do to turn them on or is it an electrical failure? Thanks in dvance if anyone can help.
  • usabravousabravo Member Posts: 3
    Previously posted messages no crank/no start. Dealership and GM believed the problem to be a module. I kept telling them it sounds like a grounding issue. Eventually, the electrical would die completely while driving and then 10 seconds later electrical would come back on. No speedometer, no power windows, no power locks, no gas guage reading, etc. Display would flash all kinds of crazy messages.

    Apprently they listened and looked harder and found under the steering wheel lower dash a wire had its insulation rubbed through and was grounding. Apparently the wires are not routed correctly causing rubbing. Apparently Cadillac DTS 2006 has had prior problems with this (they found out from GM after mine was disagnosed) however there is no TSB at this point. Apparently there should be at this point.

    They fixed the problem and now I am happy. I was losing my mind with the intermittent problem. Good luck with your problem.
  • cadymancadyman Member Posts: 3
    2006 DTS REMOTE STARTER DOSN'T WORK ANYMORE HAD ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN THE PAST 2 YRS ANY ONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM.
  • keesh5keesh5 Member Posts: 1
    I've been haviing this problem since last summer with my 2002 DTS the blower for the heat and air condition comes on when it wants some times not at all. It has to be electrical cause I could slam the door and it would come on full blast that no longer works can any one help?
  • denbossdenboss Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS that when it sits for a week the battery went dead. It went to the dealer 4 times and they said they checked everything out and said it was the radio memory that was draining the battery. So they put a switch under the dash to cut the radio off when parked. This did not work and you also lose all your preprogramed stations.The real reason is that the ON STAR system is draining the battery as it communicates with the car all the time. When you open the door it thinks you are going somewhere and runs a check on the whole system. The dealer WILL NOT disable the ON STAR no matter what you say. If you leave your DTS at the airport while you are on a 2 week trip to Europe you will have a dead battery when you return. If you use the car every day you will be OK, but if it sits the only recourse you have is to put a battery kill switch on the car. You will lose your radio stations but your battery will be OK. This is not a easy task as the battery is under the back seat and you don't want to keep lifting the seat out to turn on the switch. You need to run two cables from the battery to under the hood where you will mount the switch. It cost me about $200 to have this done but it sure was worth it. I like the car but it is going BY-BY when I can afford to dump it and buy a non-ON STAR car. I have always had Lincoln Towncars that sat for months that always started right up. So give up on the dealers as they will jack you around forever and never solve your problem except tell you to drive it more.

    GOOD LUCK
  • acp60acp60 Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem for the 1st two years I owned my '06 DTS. After 4 batteries
    and many service calls I had to utilize the Lemon Law to get it resolved. The
    car has been fine since.
  • gogo100gogo100 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I am trying to install a back up camera system on my 2008 DTS and I need to know what the color code is for the back up lights wires leading into the tail light module. I find a yellow, yellow/white, purple, green, black, and one color that I don't remember right now. I'm trying to find the positive and negative colors for the back up lights. Anyone able to help?
  • idavididavid Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 DTS with 37,000 miles and I'm getting a Service Air Bag message when I start the car. Does anyone know where I can take the car to get the error codes from the system other than a dealer? I would like to try to fix this problem myself if possible. I'm in the Detroit Mi. area. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sometimes (often actually) a store like Autozone or Kragen/Oreilly will read these for you for free. Tell us the code and we'll advise you further.
  • idavididavid Member Posts: 2
    I have tried Auto Zone and other parts stores... they only have the ability to check for engine failure codes. they don't have the electrical stuff. It may be I will have to go to a Cadillac dealer. I did go to a GMC dealer and they said they didn't have the codes/reader for a Cadillac ... was very surprised that GM / Cadillac keep car lines so segregated. I would have thought that other car lines would share the some computer/system codes.
  • plznmoiplznmoi Member Posts: 1
    Bought my 2006 DTS last fall. It is my road car, not used around my mountain village, just on trips "off the hill" of some miles. The car sits for days and sometimes, weeks at a time. I have high security and routinely just get out of my cars and leave the keys in them. On the cars I don't use but a few times a year (Silverado and Corvette) I maintain batteries with Harbor Freight battery tenders... work great.... But back to the DTS.... my battery has been going dead and I've done all the regular trouble shooting, including reading the forum. My mechanic did the ground scraping and such and it still went dead. I have put a new battery in the car, even though a few weeks before the old battery was indicating an ok condition after I had AAA jump the car and I had driven it 80 miles back to my mechanic's garage. So I kept trouble shooting and I think I have got the answer. You need to lock the car to shut down the electrical systems between driving the car. If you don't lock the car, a lot of the electronic systems keep running. To test my theory I locked the car for a week after I had installed the new battery. When I unlocked the car and started it up it had the full 14.5 amp registering. For the last three days I have left the car unlocked in the garage. The amps have dropped to 11.5 and the while the car started, in just three days a bunch of "stuff" inside our cars is pulling amps. I realize that a lot of the folks that buy DTS's are older and only drive their cars occasionally.... and while I am older, my circumstance has me in that same "light," though i love the performance of the car.
    Would appreciate thoughts on my theory.... I am still going to test it further, when I have a chance to let the car sit for a full week... then I'll leave the car unlocked with the battery charger standing by.
    As a final note, when I get in the car I hear a very faint wurrring sound, a space, then the sound again.... and it might continue but by then I have started the car. That same sound can be heard when I get in my lady's 2007 Yukon. She makes a habit of locking her car every time she is out of it. Her battery is 4.5 years old with no sign of weakening.
  • acp60acp60 Member Posts: 6
    Interesting approach. Will give it a try.
  • chiefcadimanchiefcadiman Member Posts: 1
    Our keyless remotes do not work on our 2007 DTS after being away from the vehicle for a short period. Once you unlock the door using the key the remote will once again work. Or, if the door is already unlocked, all you need to do is open the door and then the remotes will work. Basically this means we cannot pop the trunk or remotely start the car until we open the driver door or unlock the driver door. Anyone have the same issues or know of the problem and how it needs to be fixed? The dealership tried to reprogram the remotes and thought they fixed it until we walked away from the vehicles for a few minutes, came back, and same problem, didn't work.
  • pal9pal9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS and gone through 4 batteries since July 2006.
    I usually leave the car unlocked in the Garage, from now on follow your advice and plan to lock it.

    Have you found anymore on this issue since your Feb. 13, 2011 post? Thanks.
  • rjredondorjredondo Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS and Here is my problem, my fuse that operates the cigarette lighter's front and back blew the other day, it requires a #15mini fuse, so I replaced it and it was fine for a day, then it blew again, so I took a look at it and found the fuse was bad once again, I thought maybe I replaced the fuse with a defective one, it happens, the fuse box is located under the back seat next to the battery, anyway I replaced it again and it blew right away soon as I put it in the terminal, and the connector's on the fuse were very hot. Now none of the other fuses in either fuse box (under hood), or (under seat) have had any problems. Have you heard of this, and if so what was the problem, and solution, thank you.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,142
    I suggest you post this in our Answers section here:

    http://answers.edmunds.com

    Several members with mechanical expertise read questions there, and this sounds like an electrical system issue. Once you have posted there, just go back to answers and click "my answers profile" to check for responses.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • princesspast1princesspast1 Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same problem, did you find a solution?? Thanks.
  • ludloludlo Member Posts: 2
    I too have had this problem for the last 4 years. I also kept going to the dealer and getting blown off. I finally just bought a spare battery and keep it and a set of jumper cables in the trunk. This way I dont get caught off guard. On the other hand, I watch the volt meter and if it starts to register higher than 14.5 V, I clip a small charger to two wires I have attached to the + and - terminals of the battery ( being sure to keep them separated !!!! ) and let the batttery charge over night. This seems to control the problem. You might also be sure that there is not a CD in the player. I have a hunch that that continues to spin even when the key is off. Otherwise, its a new Acura for me the next time !!!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Hello princesspast1,

    Hopefully you are able to get some great insight from chiefcadiman; what are your plans for getting this checked into? If you were thinking about working with your dealership, please let us know as we're available to you through that process.

    Sarah, Cadillac Customer Service
  • caddyshack3caddyshack3 Member Posts: 1
    Also have a DTS with a battery draining in about 24 hours. Dealer (Sadlon) up here in Barrie figured it was the alternator $1400 bucks later nothing changed. Went back had it all tested for the 2nd time they couldn't find a thing and said the battery was good. Sent me on my way. Went to CTC'S corp who said that the DTS was a notorious GM product with a lousy wiring harness. Saw the reference to the TSB #1906368 and called the service manager at Sadlon who said there was no such thing ... Maybe in the US .. But not Canada ... Called GM Canada in Oshawa .. No clue there either. After $70,loo bucks in Canada nada and GM wants it this way. Anyone in the US who can tell me what the TSB essentially says.
    By the way CTC'S answer for the DTS was like most of the other solutions for this DTS buy a battery buddy and a portable battery .... Best $100 bucks ... Car is off warranty so so much for the local Caddy dealership ... Back to Chrysler for another 300 ......
  • evfilpickerevfilpicker Member Posts: 1
    I was glad to find out Im not the only one dealing with the frustration of having my battery go dead on my 2006 DTS. It happened twice last year so I put in a new battery 8 months ago. Everything was fine and it then it went dead again last month. Jumped battery and was told everything looked ok. Then it happened again today - always seems to happen when the car has not been driven for a day or two. This time the mechanic will replace the battery tomorrow and do a draw test. As it seems to be an intermittent problem, Cadillac said the issue might not been seen during the draw test. I will refer them to TSP 1906368 as well as advise them to check for a possible poor ground from negative side f the battery as well as all other suggestions I read here today. I printed out this info to bring with me. Thanks to all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Didn't find anything like the # you posted, but I did find these TWO TSB:

    TECHNICAL

    Bulletin No.: 09-08-50-017B

    Date: February 11, 2010

    Subject: No Crank, No Start, Discharged or Low Battery (Reprogram Rear Heated Seat Module)

    Models:
    2006-2010 Cadillac DTS
    Built Prior to February 2, 2010
    2007-2010 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV
    2007-2010 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
    2007-2010 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
    Built Prior to November 30, 2009
    All Equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6
    Supercede:
    This bulletin is being revised to add build breakpoint dates. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-08-50-017A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
    Condition

    Some customers may comment about a no crank/no start condition or a discharged or low battery.

    Note
    This condition may be intermittent, therefore it is important to check if a revised calibration has been released on TIS2WEB for this concern, even if the condition cannot be duplicated at the dealer.
    Cause

    This condition may be caused by the rear heated seat module (RHSM) discharging the battery by keeping the serial data bus active, which creates a cumulative continuous draw of four amps on the battery after the vehicle is shut down, until the state of charge reaches three volts.

    Correction

    Important
    DO NOT replace the RHSM or the battery for this concern.
    Reprogram the RHSM with the latest software calibration.

    Important
    Select the correct calibration files for the appropriate vehicle configuration (body style) and RPO codes.
    A revised calibration has been developed to address this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the RHSM using the Service Programming System (SPS) with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI.

    When using a Tech 2(R) or a Multiple Diagnostic Interface (MDI) for reprogramming, ensure that it is updated with the latest software version.

    During programming, the battery voltage must be maintained within the proper range of 12-15 volts. Only use the approved Midtronics(R) PSC 550 Battery Maintainer (SPS Programming Support Tool EL-49642) or equivalent during programming.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -

    Bulletin No.: 06-06-03-009

    Date: October 19, 2006

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Diagnostic Information on Battery Draw No Start - Body Control Module, BCM Power Timer
    Models:
    2006-2007 Buick Lucerne
    2006-2007 Cadillac DTS
    2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, SRX
    2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Equinox, Tahoe, Silverado, Suburban
    2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL
    2007 Pontiac Torrent
    When performing normal diagnosis on a battery that has gone dead overnight, a technician may notice that the vehicle has approximately 4.1 amp draw on the system. The draw may be steady or may drop down to a low milliamp reading for 1-2 seconds and then rise back up to the 4.1 amp range. If this amp draw condition is observed, check for aftermarket accessories or an improperly installed GM accessory that is wired into circuit 6815 (orange wire) for courtesy lamps. Anytime aftermarket accessories are installed into the courtesy lamp circuit, it can cause the inadvertent power timer in the body control module (BCM) to keep resetting. The BCM will remain awake and cause the draw of approximately 4.1 amps.

    When servicing a vehicle with this concern, back out pin 1 of the connector 2 at the BCM and see if the draw goes away. If the draw goes away, check for an aftermarket accessory (Lojack, non-factory DVD system, alarm, etc.) that is improperly installed in circuit 6815.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    evfilpicker,
    Is your mechanic with one of our GM Dealerships? If so, let us know as we're available to follow up with your service department if you like.
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    edited February 2013
    For the first time since I purchased my 06 DTS in Jan. 06, I went out to the garage on Monday to leave and was surprised that there was absolutely no power to start the vehicle. I called for jump start service and it started right up indicating that the battery had totally discharged overnight. I had the battery replaced about a year ago since that was due so that should not be the problem. Dealer ran all their tests and said there was not anything wrong battery or electrical system wise. Now that scares me. My main reason for this email is that I likewise purchased a portable battery to put in my trunk should it be needed. Then, my brain started working and I realized that without power, I cannot open the trunk to get to the portable battery. I guess that I will have to put it on the floor of the back seat area. I also noticed that someone had indicated that you could not unlock the door without power and if that being the case, I still could not get to the portable battery pac, nor, could I get to the hood release so I could get a jump start from another source. And GM just sticks their nose up in the air? Where does one go from here?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would first test the charging system. Also I would not rely on the car's alternator to charge up that dead battery---that makes the alternator work very hard indeed It should be tested and charged. Batteries do fail, even when they are nearly new, and jump-starting a totally dead battery is not a great idea. I know, sometimes it's necessary, but if you could have a charger in the garage, that's a lot better idea.

    If the charging system checks out, and the battery is load-tested and found good, then you have a parasitic drain of some kind, and the dealer just blew it.
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    edited February 2013
    Thanks for your response. The dealer had my vehicle overnight as they said they were running a test that took many hours to complete. They said that they could find no problem with the electrical systems in my car, including the battery. As insurance, I had them replace the battery anyway. I stopped by the dealers yesterday to inquire if the key door locks work even with a dead battery and they said yes. So, I will keep the portable battery pack on the floor in the back seat area. That will be very embarrasing when people ask why am I carrying that in a Cadillac. On one hand, I would tend to agree with you that the dealer blew it as far as testing and correcting the problem is concerned, however, my dealer is a very old dealer and the only one here in Indy so I would think that their knowledge and background on these problems would be second nature to them. As well, as I would think that as common a problem as this seems to be, I would think that the factory would have determined the problem and issued a tech bulletin for correcting the problem by now. They have had about 7 years to work on the problem. Am I in left field on this issue? I might add that I really like this 06 Cadillac and think that it is a tremenous vehicle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There is this TSB:

    TECHNICAL

    Bulletin No.: 09-08-50-017B

    Date: February 11, 2010

    Subject: No Crank, No Start, Discharged or Low Battery (Reprogram Rear Heated Seat Module)

    Models:
    2006-2010 Cadillac DTS
    Built Prior to February 2, 2010

    Condition

    Some customers may comment about a no crank/no start condition or a discharged or low battery.

    Note
    This condition may be intermittent, therefore it is important to check if a revised calibration has been released on TIS2WEB for this concern, even if the condition cannot be duplicated at the dealer.
    Cause

    This condition may be caused by the rear heated seat module (RHSM) discharging the battery by keeping the serial data bus active, which creates a cumulative continuous draw of four amps on the battery after the vehicle is shut down, until the state of charge reaches three volts.

    Correction

    Important
    DO NOT replace the RHSM or the battery for this concern.
    Reprogram the RHSM with the latest software calibration.

    Important
    Select the correct calibration files for the appropriate vehicle configuration (body style) and RPO codes.
    A revised calibration has been developed to address this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the RHSM using the Service Programming System (SPS) with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI.

    When using a Tech 2(R) or a Multiple Diagnostic Interface (MDI) for reprogramming, ensure that it is updated with the latest software version.

    During programming, the battery voltage must be maintained within the proper range of 12-15 volts. Only use the approved Midtronics(R) PSC 550 Battery Maintainer (SPS Programming Support Tool EL-49642) or equivalent during programming.
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    I will print out this information and take it to the dealer next week and see what kind of response I get. The service statement that I received only indicated that an "Electrical system check was made and found everything checked out fine. Used GR8 to test battery; battery passed, installed 88865253 : 79PS Battery". I don't know whether that has any meaning or not other than what was stated. The service writer indicated that they had had cases of this problem but did not seem to provide any sense of reliability or processes as to any fixes. Perhaps they did reprogram the RHSM indicated in the TB, and did not indicate so on the service statement(?). The service writer did not indicate that it was done. I will find out about that also. Again, Thanks for your help and concern. Jim
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    indytoo,
    Keep us posted on your visit to the dealership! We're available to you should you want any assistance in the process. Contact us at [email protected] (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    edited February 2013
    Stopped at the Dealers today and discussed issue with the Service Writer. Asked her if she knew if the RHSM had been reprogrammed with the latest software available on TIS2WEB as cited in #87. She drew a blank. She pounded on here keyboard for a while and said she could find nothing in regard to any reprogramming. I did not have the number with me to give to her at that time. She asked if I could get a copy and I said I would see what I could do. I see an instruction "Bulletin No. 09-08-50-017B" and the TIS2WEB listed. Are these GM documents or outside party items? It seems to me that if they were GM's, they would be readily available to dealer service departments. Please advise.
    Jim
  • cadillac1979cadillac1979 Member Posts: 1
    I just had that problem , except it happened to me , while I was doing a HID got light kit to it, after installing all lights , tried to start car and nothing all dash light worked , all interior lights worked , doors would lock and unlock but no horn would sound and remote start wouldn't work , head light or fogs not working but marker lights and turn signals worked, message display said service airbag system, after putting all factory stuff back together and re installing bumper , everything worked like nothing ever happened .
  • caddilifecaddilife Member Posts: 1
    So what was it? My 06 is doin the exact thng ... I ws told all fuses good strter good battery good got remote key programd ..
  • indytooindytoo Member Posts: 8
    edited October 2013
    In my case, I received no response as to the cause since they had no causitive reason, nor did I receive any mechanical correction to the problem. I will say that fortunately this is the only time this has happened to date. Since this situation can happen at any time and anywhere, I purchased a backup battery pack which I carry at all times on the floor of the rear seating area. Don't put it in the trunk since you can't open the trunk without power. Cadillac has really dropped the ball on this one.
  • theforddogtheforddog Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    I also have an occasional battery discharge problem on my 2006 DTS when it is parked in the garage and not running. After several months of being a 100-mile daily driver, I quit driving it except for an occasional trip once a week or less. Then one morning when I tried to start the car the battery didn't have enough juice to turn the starter over. After couple of trips to the dealer and having them them tell me nothing was wrong with the battery, I asked the service adviser what if anything could be done to fix the problem. He explained that the car's computer could "come to life" while the car is just sitting there and now not being driven very often. He said "If you can bring it in and leave it with us for a while, we have new diagnostic equipment that can tell us what the source of the problem is". I decided not to do this because they will most likely want me to pay for an expensive piece of electronic equipment that, in my opinion, may not correct the problem in the long run. The DTS has a 150 amp alternator that will charge the battery all the way up very quickly once the engine is running. It's rated at 105 amps at idle. Just put your 10 amp charger on the battery for a couple of hours and the battery should have enough juice to turn the starter over. By the way, the service adviser told me that the new corvettes have a similar problem, and many of their owners keep a battery charger handy in the garage where they are parked at night.
  • oilman7oilman7 Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 DTS was having the same dead battery issues and after reading many helpful posts; I thought that the electrical system was to complex and had to large an appetite for just one battery. My solution 4 years ago was to add a second battery in the trunk in a marine battery case and I wired it directly to the main battery cables. Never had another battery rundown problem after that.
  • bgrissombgrissom Member Posts: 1
    I'm having some trouble with a squealing sound on my 07 cadillac dt. Can anyone help? I have a video of it if I can upload it 
  • gregstagregsta Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I did find a solution, it might be a temporary one but it's working for my DTS Performance. After  spending months on researching this battery drainage problem I wasnt able to find an explanation therefore I decided to test the car myself. I locked myself inside the car while waiting on a friend and after about 15 minutes  I started hearing a clicking noise from the doors and dashboard, one click every minute. Apart from the clicking the parking sensor dash lights flashed with each click (all the lights flash). MY SOLUTION: I locked the doors from inside but I left the driver door slightly open not fully shut, it won't open again without unlocking but there's a slight gap left, the computer thinks that the door is not fully shut so the clicking and parking sensor lights stopes It's been a month now and my battery hasn't  drained so far I drive 3-4 days a week around 20 miles a day. Hope this will help. Cheers! 
  • spice29spice29 Member Posts: 2
    I just had that problem , except it happened to me , while I was doing a HID got light kit to it, after installing all lights , tried to start car and nothing all dash light worked , all interior lights worked , doors would lock and unlock but no horn would sound and remote start wouldn't work , head light or fogs not working but marker lights and turn signals worked, message display said service airbag system, after putting all factory stuff back together and re installing bumper , everything worked like nothing ever happened .

Sign In or Register to comment.