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Ford Windstar Problems
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Comments
Many public libraries now subscribe to Alldata so it may be worth a trip to your local reference room.
Steve, Host
Frozennorth, we got 5 inches last night and our furnace died. That's enough snow so you can quit now, but thanks!
Steve, Host
p.s. This van has been a major work and people mover. No babying!
Just wanted to share my experience with my 2000 windstar SEL that I got rid of after 2yrs(17k) due to uncorrectable electrical problems. In the 2yrs that I owned the car, the battery was replaced 2x along with the alternator. All these replacements were done at seperate times under warranty. Of course having 3 children 2 of which need car seats, the economy loan-a-car didnt cut it. I must have jump started the car about 35 - 40 times during my brief ownership (thank god for those portable battery jumper packs which I ended up buying due to the unrelability of the car. In July of 2002 I finally had enough and replaced it with a 02 SEL, that now has 14k on it and is starting to have similar problems? It seems if the car sits for more than 24hrs it needs a jump start (no nothing is left on, not even a radar detectoror cell phone charger. NOTHING! - If it was not such an aggrevation, I would seek the lemon law, however at this point I am looking towrds a Sienna or Quest.
Question for the board: Has anyone else experienced similar electrical issues on the newer Windstars ??
I have to admit, Windstar really wasn't too bad the first 109k (head gasket, tranny piston, twop or three ball joints), and the factory stood behind the head gasket after several phone calls. After that, it was a monthly or quarterly thing keeping it going. Word to those going over the 100k mark with an early 1994-1996 Windstar - beware! Strongly consider trading for something else. They can keep going, but root problems such as ball joints and check engine light coming on relentlessly (always expensive oxygen sensors) never go away.
laundryguy
I thought problems would have been fixed when I got my 2000 over the older models, and I guess so were addressed. But my tranny failed and the head gasket was replaced (after engine light). The engine still performs well, but the tranny just ain't the same.
If you insist on getting this van, make sure you spend for the extended warranty, you will need it! Factor that into your cost and buy something better. What? I dunno.
No more fog.
The actuator is located on the passenger side of the van below the glove box.
So maybe try to sell it to a tranny shop for $500?
If you towed it to an auto auction, it might bring $50, if it sold at all. A '96 with 192,439 miles sold for $1,275 last December at a local auction.
Steve, Host
laundryguy
39269 miles head gasket blows. Initially $495 out of pocket - FMC gave me $454 back 2 years later when extended warranty comes out (Mar,2000)
54761 two outer tie rods and alignment: $184
57796 miles transmission piston cracked. Crummy aluminum part replaced by steel part. $1061
60495 ABS light comes on. $55 to tell me no problem. I learn to ignore.
75870 check engine light (EGR valve too much flow)$55. I learn to ignore again.
78875 speedo cable shot: $60. Broke again quickly - learn to live with +/-10 mph
87187 crunchy sound turning - bushings/alignment $75 - learn to ignore
Average C grade through 100k - tolerable, now the bad stuff:
106146 timing cover gasket and water pump: $640
111861 right lower ball joint and align: $250
114511 ECU computer rebuilt/new O2 sensors - degas entire exhaust (fuel injector jammed wide open throttle): $1013
115080 check engine light back on (does it ever go off!)
123194 replace thermostat and fix driver lock: $97
125,500 miles:
following issues:
*ABS light on
*check engine light on ($200 of O2 parts +labor)
*broken roof rack (OK - my fault - roof rack on van does not fit in garage!)
*rear wiper broke with snow circa 60k
*cruise control coast button stopped working circa 100k
*trim above sliding door channel won't stay in (repair by FMC was to add "permanent tape" just before warranty expired - wasn't permanent!
*trim pc in front of driver just behind hood flapping in breeze
*wiper pump - which never worked well doesn't work (final straw!) - I'm sure its expensive
I look back at the posts above and know I got off easy, but said to myself that I was parting ways at 125k since $2000 in repairs in 15 months to a car worth $2000 (only if I fixed all the busted stuff aabove)was not worth it.
This car was a definite A for the first 36,000 miles, a D from 36,000 to 80,000 miles, an B from 80,000 until 105,000, then a big F after 105,000.
As the "wholigan" so valiantly stated about 8 months ago in this list:
No more Fords. NEVER. Yippie
Laundryguy moves on
Program No. 01M093
Model: 1996 Ford Windstar
Extended Coverage Info:
The front coil springs on your Ford Windstar are now covered for 10 years from the warranty start date, regardless of mileage. This part may prematurely wear or break, especially when operated in high-corrosion areas of North America (where salt is used on the roadways in winter) for an extended period of time. Coverage is automatically transferred to future vehicles owners.
What is covered?
Effective immediately, Ford is providing extended warranty coverage for repairs, including parts and labor, directly related to your vehicle's front coil springs.
The notice indicates that the front coil springs may be susceptible to corrosion - which could ultimately lead to spring fracture. What you would most likely notice if your front coil spring fractures is that one side of your vehicle will appear to be lower than the other.
I'm not noticing any problem with one side being lower than the other but it's had me wondering if it may be related in some way. I had gone to the local Ford dealer and they told me they checked the springs when I brought the van in for another recall and said everything was fine. I was told that long before I started hearing the front end clunking.
FYI, I live in NH so we have plenty of salt use during the winter months but I was hearing the clunking noise prior to the cold winter months.
I replaced tie rods at 75k and "lifetime" sealed right ball joint at 112k. Left was in bad shape. Happily parting ways with it tomorrow for the tax writeoff. Good luck with your Windstar - you will need it!
1. What's the reliability like for these model years? After reading the Edmund's consumer ratings and posts here, I'm a little concerned to say the least. We have four friends who have windstars and are happy with them.
2. How does the windstar compare to other domestic models, reliability wise? I'll be happy with average reliability. And we'd like to limit our choices to domestic vans to keep the cost low.
Thanks for any input.
The 01 Windstar was a great looking car (for a minivan)! It was the Sport SE model in black, very sharp looking. My kids loved the rear spoilier. I've seen it in red and white also, but the black was the nicest IMHO because the Sport model had black acccents on the wheels and on the body. We just recently purchased a 04 Expedition. I was just "done" with the minivan mode. Not to say that I didn't like it, I just needed a change. I do however miss the ease of getting in and out with the kids. Good luck on your search!
The chevy venture seems to have pretty good reliability too. Maybe we'll check that out too. Having two toddlers, minivan is the way to go. I don't buy into that image thing at all, why let others dictate what you think. Plus it'll be the wife's van anyway. The Honda oddysy is just plain expensive.
Maybe the 1998-2000 are out of the woods regarding many of the Windstar problems, but I know of several still having issues with tie rods and ball joints (don't kid yourself - the sealed ball joints won't meet your "life" expectancy - just Fords). I would look for a grease zerk on the ball joint - if it is not there don't buy it. Each ball joint repaired at a shop will run about $250 - $300. Tie rods seem to last 35k to 50k, then need replacing - eat tires if you ignore. Transmission issues, timing cover gasket, and head gaskets were very bad in 95 and 96 years - absolutely don't buy years.
I think some of the 1997 and 1998 suffered from persistant issues with sliding door locking mechanism - haven't seem anything on later models. I have three co-workers with 1996 to 1998 models and all are looking to dump them because of reliability issues rising up at 75k. Saw new Freestar adds circa 18k in Chicago area. Price is surely to drop on these with new Dodge out. If you can wait a little for your used car - you will save even more because of price pressure on the new car level.
Used Odyssey is too expensive I'll agree. A 2001 EX was priced on sale for $21,500 here in Upper Midwest - might as well buy a new LX for $22,700 or less. Seeing new 2004 Dodge Grand Caravans for $15,991 in newspaper ads today with air conditioning, power windows, power locks, CD, cruise, tilt, tinted glass, and 70/70,000 warranty provides another possible option, with interest rates at record lows (most banks loaning at 4.4% or less). If nothing else, rock bottom new car prices on 04 will drive down older used car prices on existing inventories.
If safety means anything to you - the Chevy rates the worst - garnering "poor" in crash tests. Windstar may keep you alive if you get hit by many of the idiots driving a zillion miles an hour in those big SUV's.
Good luck.
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
the dealer said they thought it was in theft mode. any ideas?
2) No other transponder type keys near your windstar key.
3) No flash pass type cards / transponders near your windstar key(s).
These things wont wipe the code on your windstar keys, but will cause a no start condition.
G/luck
Joel
Can you direct me to reviews only on this year?
G/luck
Joel
With any vehicle, you should always set the parking brake when parking up or down a hill. Car companies even recommend to always use the parking brake while parking, just a pre-caution if something goes wrong with the transmission in the middle of the night.
I have a '02 Windstar which shifts out very smooth from Park to Reverse or Drive.