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Ford Windstar Problems
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Comments
If the O/D light has ever lit you will have a code stored for a transmission fault that the dealer can retrieve.
Don't ask why I got a 00 when I had the tranny and engine gasket problem on the 95, its a sore point!
I have read and didn't see any problems with these. I am going to have to "attempt" to get some $$ back on this..any ideas on who to contact?
OH btw after reading all these posts I think I'm afraid to drive it!!!!!!!!!!
BTW, how could it be that you still have your warranty on an '01 model? Isn't it for just 36 months? Do you have an extended warranty?
Yeah..lol..after reading all these problems with them I'm wondering what's going to go next!!!
DTC code P0135 and code 1130
Any suggestion?
Thanks a lot
P1131 = Lack Of HO2S Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean
Make sure the rear upstream O2 sensor harness isn't unplugged or melted to the exhaust manifold
The sealer pellets put in by my mechanic worked and the van was running better than it has in a long time. My wife and I decided to ditch the Windstar while we could still get something for it so we traded it in while everything "appeared" to be working well. The dealership gave us $1,200 for the van not knowing of the head gasket problem and I also started getting a buzzing noise when I activated the right turn signal. I checked it and it was definitely something within the steering column because I could push up the lever without locking it in place and it would work (as long as I held it in place) but once I pushed it into place, it started buzzing and wouldn't work on the exterior. At this time, I'm not happy with having a new car payment but I feel much better when my wife takes my vehicle with the kids.
Good luck with your Windstars! I won't be buying another again.
" CEL is on - performed EEC test (???) with WDS retrieved codes P0171 and P0174. bank 1 and 2 lean . performed pinpoint test (whats that??) and found intake gaskets leaking.
replaced intake gaskets and valve cover with updated style. Recalibrated PCM to latest calibration.
is this the same gasket problem that the infamous 95s had???
is it time to dump this thing, only 56K miles and had new tranny at 38 already!
is having my oil analyzed a good idea in the near future to be sure coolant etc is not getting into the engine or vice versa???
tlkarsch@sbccom.apgea.army.mil
1. The contacts are dirty. Clean the contacts (little silver circles) on all the doors with WD-40.
2. The rear hatch (or perhaps one of the other doors)has become slightly misaligned or bent probably from being slammed shut too many times on something that was sticking out farther than it should've been. The result is that the contact on the hatch/door and the contact on the body aren't in alignment or aren't touching. Open the rear hatch/door and jiggle the hatch side to side and try to close it correctly. You have to play with it a bit. Do the same with other doors. Experiment a bit. I've heard it suggested that you can get in the car, turn it on and pull on the closed doors from the inside to see if you get a different result.
3. The car has an electrical gremlin of some sort -- take it to a dealer and get out your wallet because he will replace the electrical "switch" or somesuch.
4. The car has a defective door sensor. Dealer will replace the "sensor". Wallet is again involved.
5. Give up on a solution and remove the interior light fuse from the fusebox and get used to getting into your car in the dark.
My own '96 WS has had this problem on and off for several years. I've sprayed the contacts and played with the hatch and slammed the sliding door. Sometimes it makes the light go off, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the light and door ajar indicator go on and off in rapid succession while driving (with the door ajar chime sounding each time) for an hour or so and then stops. Currently, after six months of being fine, it started doing it again the other day and then stopped after a week. My wife believes that the problem is related to changes in the weather -- humidity? contraction-expansion of metal due to temperature change? She might be right as we had our first subzero temperatures followed by a rebound to the 50s followed by the door light going on.
Good luck and remember you could (and probably will) have much more serious problems with this vehicle.
having just checked out how much the darn thing is worth now, its almost not worth trading in! At least it will be paid for in 3 months! I'll keep it till it dies, or my teenager destroys it while she is learning to drive!!:-)
Thoughts?
Thanks
Transmission shop thought it was a faulty converter (they just rebuilt the trans) so they installed another new one and the noise was still there.
They took out the trans again and tore it down, going over everything again and it all checked out ok. Put it back and noise still there.
They put a bell housing shell on and started it up and it still made the noise.
They then removed the serp belt and the damn noise was still there!
They were really great with me as they put 20+ hours into my van under warranty at no cost.
Took it to the ford dealer and they went over it for a few hours with a steth and tried to say it was the trans after I told them it made it without one! Then they just threw their hands up... They had never heard it before and couldn't pin point it... well worth the diag fee.
Anybody have any ideas or heard of this??? It is quite annoying and came on all the sudden. Does it at idle and it varies with engine speed. I just don't want to have something suddenly fail.
I did also just change the oil even though it didn't need it hoping for a stupid fix... no change
Thanks -Joel
Steve, Host
Am concerned because my pregnant wife uses the car to haul our two other infants -- is all this unusual...am left wondering what will the next week bring...
Can I pursue with Ford to get back the $600 for the alternator? My mechanic says its unusual for a car with only 37K on it -- but doesnt seem so unusual for a Windstar, according to you folks!
Any suggestions or advice are REALLY appreciated. Sorry for the ramble.
Jeff