Ford Windstar Problems



  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    If it's the same setup as my 95 it's not too bad. It's just 4 screws. You will need to disconnect the wires and label them according to position because you will need to put them back exactly how they were before. Unscrew the 4 screws and lift up on the coil pack. Insert the new one and screw those same screws back in and then reconnect the wires. I have the manual here if you want me to scan the directions and diagrams and email them to you just send me your email address. I will need to know your engine size, though.
  • austinworldaustinworld Member Posts: 2
    So, did the noise completely go away? Or do you need to replace the AC clutch? Do you think you'll need to in the near future? We have this loud, metal-to-metal grinding sound, but not exactly sure what it is.
  • turbotronturbotron Member Posts: 2
    Super easy to do. Get a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store. It will show you how to get the door panel off. Once thats done you only have 3 plastic nuts to take off to get the mirror off. Replace with the new one and screw back on. Install the door panel the reverse of how you took it off. It shouldn't take more that 30 minutes from start to finish. Good luck. :)
  • dnspauldnspaul Member Posts: 3
    I just got a 1999 for windstar and the check engine light came on and it is the O2 sensors, I haven't changed them yet, but today my husband was turned a corner and hit the gas real hard the van jerked and then just wouldn't go, we pulled over and it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or anything. Don't know if he blew the tranny or not cause there were no signs of it going out or slipping or anything. Can the O2 sensor cause this.
  • zauggerzaugger Member Posts: 2
    Hey folks. I have a '95 Windstar, and my car has recently begun revving uncontrollably when I am stopped or going slowly. It'll go from 500RPM to 2000 and back down. If my foot isn't crammed on the brake I jump...hit a lady's bumper last week and it cost me $1000. ANyone have an idea what that is? I took it in to a service shop, and their aftermarket computer readout couldn't pinpoint it, except to say that the motor WAS receiving messages from the computer to rev the engine. Hmmm...
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    Possibly a bad computer.
  • zauggerzaugger Member Posts: 2
    How much does a new computer run? This vehicle has 195,000 on it (35k on a new engine)...not sure it's worth it...
  • dbbonddbbond Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 windstar. I have a yellow warning light that looks almost like a top with an arrow in a circular pattern above it. It appeared right above the RPM gauge. I have never seen this light and wondering if anyone could tell me before I have to go see a mechanic about it? Also, if anyone knows where I can get an owners manual for the windstar that would be great.
  • vptsrvptsr Member Posts: 1
    having the same problem. i sanded down the four metal contacts on the sliding door behind the passenage side.
    as for the dome light until you find the real problem try to remove the battery relay under the drivers side fuse box
    under the dash on his side. that fwill shut off the dome and the power to the windows. when you need to open the windows repace the relay. im still working on the problem
    if you find out anything please let me know thank you very much vptsr
  • jabaprijabapri Member Posts: 3
    I am curious. Was it raining? We have the same problem but only when it is raining.

  • jabaprijabapri Member Posts: 3
    Reply to 177.

    Out of curiosity was it raining when it stalled?

    Did the check engine light come on? Is it on?
  • jabaprijabapri Member Posts: 3
    Was that reasonable price was to fix? Did it solve the problem?
  • dnspauldnspaul Member Posts: 3
    no it wasn't, but it is for sure the transmission, and it is going to cost 1700.00 to fix it and we have only had it a month so this really stinks.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford. From the sound of it I would say a complete rebuild? Go with the custom parts verses the Ford parts. It's a little more expensive but cheaper than having done again in a year.
  • aceladyacelady Member Posts: 10
    Pop the door panel off on the driver's side. The panels are attached with christmas tree clips that pop into the door frame.

    Disconnect and spray the connection for the lights (will be directly under the door lock) with contact cleaner, available at most hardware stores for less than $10.00.
    Contact cleaner is alcohol based and will evaporate quickly.

    Reconnect the light connection and wrap the connection with electrical tape to prevent future corrosion.

    Pop the panels back on.

    Spray all the door contacts on the frame of the car with wd-40, rear, sliding, passenger and drivers. This will clean up any dirt and help prevent corrosion from coming back.

    I did this myself with my 96 and it took care of the problem. It took me 3 hours to take things apart and 30 minutes put things back together once I figured things out.
  • njanneynjanney Member Posts: 2
    Have you had any luck yet with advice on the stalling problem? We have had the same problem with our '96 but only when the weather is hot. I'd appreciate knowing if you have any answers or diagnoses.
  • njanneynjanney Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to your stalling situation of 2002? We are having the same symptoms but are not interested in just dumping the van at this point. Thanks for any input you can give.
  • keesie101keesie101 Member Posts: 2
    Warrenty on rebuilt trans was one year, unimited miles. However....the problem persisted
    ( no over drive when warm), they had the van for the whole month of October last year, could not figure it out and simply gave up!! Blamed it on the computor, needed to be reflashed. Not so according to the dealer.
    So this van is ok for in the city, or about 20 min on the highway. Any buyers? Next stop Toyota dealer.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    Installed a new computer is about $300
  • joekamjoekam Member Posts: 3
    I jack the car up, removal the 5 lug nuts and the wheel does not want to come off without a significant amount of struggle. Is there a way to prevent this seizure? Just where is this binding?
  • cpassmorecpassmore Member Posts: 1
    we are on vacation right now and half way thru the drive to North Carolina, we starting experiencing the same problem. Can you tell us how you made out with this? thank you
  • littlemomlittlemom Member Posts: 5
    The same light is on on my dashboard. My van (2001) is running fine with this problem. I had the diagnostic test run and it showed that I had a vaccuum hose loose. I haven't had it fixed yet, and that has been several months. I don't know if you have an AutoZone or an Advance Auto in your area, but here (in Montgomery, Al) they offer a FREE diagnostic test if your engine light is on, but I think the dealer is giving you a run around on that price...The Ford Dealership here charges only $70 for the Diagnostic test..
  • treywindstreywinds Member Posts: 5
    my '99 windstar-fluid backing up through the resorvoir;
    problem solved with new steering rack/pinion including labor-$450.(dealer guesstimated $800 to start)also, no more noise when turning left or right.happy for now,until i decide
    to have the abs light diagnosed.
  • banigansbanigans Member Posts: 1
    Have you resolved this problem and, if so, how? I have a 2003 WS SEL whose power sliding doors have been acting up off and on. Sometimes one won't close--pops back open--and sometimes one won't open. Has anyone else been experiencing this type of problem and, if so, how were you able to fix it?
  • shaniraeshanirae Member Posts: 1
    We've had our van since 2001 and have had no major problems until the last six months. First the washer fluid wouldn't pump. Then the lovely door ajar that only goes off when you reach a certain speed limit. The passenger window won't budge with either control. The rear window wiper won't run at all. I can deal with the little things, but now the blessed van is possessed. It started by jerking with acceleration. Now, it stalls when we turn left. I've read the other posts addressing the different problems, but if someone could give me some insight as to why the van doesn't like left-hand turns, I would be a very happy camper. :confuse:
  • Go to my post #2109 and see post #2116 reply. You can replace this item yourself. Good Luck.
  • scootchymagooscootchymagoo Member Posts: 2
    My Wife and I just recently purchased a 2002 Ford Windstar limited with 50,000 miles on it, today while driving on the highway it would hesitate and sputter at around 55. So bought a bottle of fuel injection cleaner and topped off the tank thinking maybe the fuel lines might be a little dirty, but the more we drove today the more we noticed it at different speeds, when it "sputters" my rpms jump about 500 rpms depending where they are already at, but just as quickly as it hicups it corrects itself, I am not a car guy but i am not stupid to cars either, could this be a transmition problem if so will our 30 day powertrain warrenty cover that any help would be appriciated! :cry:
  • mwinkmwink Member Posts: 1
    Upon starting my car thsi morning, after a weekend oil change and air filter change - the engine revs uncontrollably. I cannot get it off the very high idle. any help is appreciated. thnx.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    Run it into a brick wall before you spend thousands to fix it just to have it break again.
  • 63ford63ford Member Posts: 2
    I was driving our 98 windstar (has 123,000mi) loaded down bringing kid home from college, crusing at 80mph (good old Montana)when suddenly the van began to lose power. RPMs dropped to @1500, speed came down slowly but could not increse power when trying to accelerate. Pulled over, shut her down and let sit 5-15 min. restarted. Took off no problem, ran at 75mph for @15min started problem again. Had this happen several times over the last 70 miles till I got it home. Also I could put her in N and rev up with no problem. ANY IDEADS??? Seems that it maybe some sort of sensor getting hot and causing the power band to drop. Tranny would not kick down to lower gear when trying to accelerate either during this problem. Been really lucky with this Van no real problems. :confuse: ">
  • pdbeckerpdbecker Member Posts: 3
    My problem is exactly what the title suggests. My battery developed a short which, in turn, burned up my alternator. Both were replaced with new units, but now the car hesitates randomly. It will run fine for a while and then hesitate a few times or even shut off completely. I cannot restart while in utility mode. Only once I completely turn the key off will it restart, and then it starts fine. The mechanic claims that I have to drive for 60-70 miles before the computer module will "relearn" all the car's systems again. Is this true, or is he giving me a line of garbage?
  • jimskinsjimskins Member Posts: 11
    My '02 Junkstar has a problem where the emergency brake intermittently engages. It sometimes happens during normal driving but mostly in the mornings when backing out of the driveway. There is a loud squeal and the brake light on the dash comes on. You can tell the brake is engaged because there is resistance when moving. To get it to release, we have to pull forward, turn off the engine, set and release the brake a couple times, and then restart the engine. Not sure what shutting it off and on does (maybe helps with the light) but the brake engaging is a real problem. It has been to the dealer numerous times and they cannot fix it. They just replaced the master cylinder and the next day, same problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • socalrlsocalrl Member Posts: 3
    did you ever resolve the problem? I now have the same issue with my 2000 Windstar.
  • iulian07iulian07 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get any resolution on this?
    I experienced these problems twice on my 2001 Windstar.
    After cooling off everything seemed to be fine

    In both cases it was a sticky humid summer day.
    After stopping the car for 5 minutes (picked the kids from daycare), the engine would stall, tire pressure indicator would go on (remained on). Looks like the onboard computer is acting crazy when it is too hot outside.

  • pdbeckerpdbecker Member Posts: 3
    I ended up taking the van back to the dealer I got it from and they found the new alternator was spiking in voltage. Another new alternator fixed the problem. I was able to return the first one for my money back.
  • mrsheadmrshead Member Posts: 1
    Our 2000 windstar idles fine but 1500rpm it starts to shimmey and vibrate. It doesnt do it below 1500rpm or above. The check engine light came on and the test said a misfire on cylinder #2 P0302. We have changed all the sparks plugs and wires twice. The fuel pump, coil pack and MAF Mass air flow sensor. Any ideas what could be wrong? Any way to check the injectors without it costing a lot of money?
  • jdpiercejdpierce Member Posts: 1
    This has been a long standing problem for us and would really like to get it fixed...we have spent tons on good tries, but no one has figured this out. It is like you can go 300 miles with no problem and then it starts...have to stop and restart to reset things and then it is just a matter of time till it happens again. Please let me know if you find out why high temperature causes loss of power in the 1998 For Windstar.
  • rumplerumple Member Posts: 2

    I've got a 96WS GL 3.8. Have managed to avoid the Ford and shop rip offs so far. Yes, my van had problems.

    1.speedometer jumping at 25k dealer replaced under warranty, would of cost about $500. Second time at 52k. I purchased a complete insturment cluster (reconditioned) for about $80 dollars and had the miles set to match the old one. replaced it myself. It's been good every since. Now has 171k. ;)
    2. Engine check light on, misfire on #3 cyclinder. 75k Misfiring, no power, stalling. Took it into a shop. They told me it was bad fuel injectors. $800. I didn't buy their story. Did some research, bought a top end (intake) seal kit. Found the entire intake, EGR systems plugged with carbon. Along with one of the vaccum actuators inop on the front intake rail. Gasket set $43.00 Vaccum actuator $60. 2 cans of carburator cleaner, bottle brush and half a day in my garage and it runs like a champ :D .

    3. Transmission shift problems, have always kept up on changing the fluid and filter about every 30k. But it started to act up with shifting. Replaced the speed sensor on top of the transmission (under the rear exhuast, beneath the heat blanket)Its a very tight fit but it can be done. Also changed out the shift selector on the left hand side under the hood where the shift cable hooks to the transmission. Was told by several shops you need a $2300 transmission. My parts cost under $100 and I did it myself. :P
    4. Clunk in the left front on a rough road. Plus a loud clunk when shifting into gear forward or reverse. Took me awhile to figure it out. But then realized it was only happening while the vehicle was in motion and a load on the transmission. We could not duplicate the sound bouncing up and down on the suspension. It is the famous "Ford" oil filled tansmission mounts. Great for vibration dampening in the short term. But once they get old and worn they leak out the oil. Then instead of dampening the shock, or securing the stress load on the drivetrain they just bottom out. Causing the CLUNK! Transmission mounts $46 dollars each. 2 hours, No more Clunk! :P :D
    5. Can't help the brakes, they wear they get replaced. Yes they wear fast. I think it's just a weight and balance issue. These vans are not small vehicles, they are somewhat areo dynamic in shape. So it does take some brakes to slow them down. Just part of life.

    Hope this helps some of the other indstar owners.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    I hate to tell you this but it's not always that simple with these vans.

    1. Haven't had that problem.

    2. Already had the work done on it that you did and didn't fix the problem for long. First was misfire on cylinder #2 next was #4. Turned out to be a bad computer. Rep[laced it and it runs fine now.

    3. Had the tranny rebuilt and the common clutch piston sheer was the issue. My father rebuilt it so I'm confident he was telling me the truth since he earned only my gratitude.

    4.Sway bar was busted.

    5. Buy better brake hardware. Use your emergecy brake every time you park because this is the way Ford has designed them to adjust the back brakes.

    6. Ford sux. Buy a Chevy or Dodge next time. That's MY plan.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    5. Buy better brake hardware. Use your emergecy brake every time you park because this is the way Ford has designed them to adjust the back brakes.

    Yeah...I sure don't see rapid brake wear. Our front brakes have lasted about 50,000 mi, they have been replaced twice at Ford dealer. Original rear brakes lasted about 95,000 mi. Recently replaced at same time as second set of fronts.
  • chrisrkochrisrko Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 2000 Ford Windstar with the same problem. Does anyone know how to replace the pressure switch? I know that it is attached to the master cylinder. Will brake fluid leak out if I replaced it myself? Please advise.
  • chrisrkochrisrko Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Windstar. Does anyone know how to replace the pressure switch that is connected directly under the master cylinder? I know that the switch operates from the pressure of the brake fluid. Do you have to empty the reservoir before replacing or can I just unscrew the old switch and quickly screw in the new switch without too much brake fluid leakage?
  • wsharpewsharpe Member Posts: 2
    I have roughly 93,000km on this used vehicle I bought a year ago. The problems were minimum and up to now the most expensive fix were the brakes on all tires.

    (This all happened at same time) Ok, I have my ABS light on, my air conditioning does not work, my cruise control does not work, and my odometer and speedometer does not work. Now, I replaced fuse 10 in the fuse panel just left of the brake pedal. Everything works except for Cruise Control :confuse: .

    After while The fuse would blow again, I tried this a few times and there is no pacific time it does go. So, I checked all the wiring, that I could see (I do not know much of anything about vehicles - I know how to change a tire, hehehehehe) nothing seems to be broken or frayed. Also, I looked for leaks, like the master cylinder leaking on wires and melting the sheathing down till they short, but nothing there, everything seems pretty dry in there. (Under the hood and down by my feet).

    (Is this True)
    Then, I was told it could be a relay in the fuse box in the cab. I was told to replace the blown fuse (10), then start the vehicle and turn my A/C up full blast and to make sure to monitor the relays for how hot they might get. Supposedly a bad relay will get hot before it blows a fuse. I did this and one got a little hot (R2) and the one above it got Hotter(R1). So, if I replace this hot relay will that stop my fuses from blowing?????? Is this all true or hog wash?

    I still have now clue how to fix my Cruise Control, but, I am not worried about it, as long as I get my speedometer and odometer fixed.

    I am new to this forum, so any help is greatly appreciated.
    Thank You

  • stamastama Member Posts: 2
    my 02 windstar has been wonderful i have never had any major issues and have had just regular maintence done on it. Now the brakes have failed and the pads and rotors are in normal condition and there is also normal brake fluid. Had it taken to a ford dealer mechanic who after they checked everything told me he took it for a test drive and all is normal. i asked him to keep vehicle and rec check it as i dont want this to be a recurring problem. Any help?????????????
  • jimskinsjimskins Member Posts: 11
    I have an 02 Windstar currently in the shop for brake problems (see posting # 2412). It has been at the dealer every week for the last three weeks. My problem is that the rear brakes and/or emergency brake engages when backing up and the brake light on the dash comes on. A couple of times the brakes were grabbing while driving forward. The dealer has been on the Ford hotline multiple times. They have just put on new shoes and resurfaced the drums. I doubt this will help, though. Just be careful driving as I have heard other issues where the brakes fail altogether. You may want to check
  • aceladyacelady Member Posts: 10
    okay, i thought i had gotten a good deal when my trusty plymouth voyager bit the dust, now I'm not so sure. I paid $750.00 USD for it and have spent about $600.00 in repairs. The windshield needed replaced, the lock actuator was bad on the drivers door, the rear wiper motor didn't work, there was a brake job, the cylinder switch for the speed control. Some of the things I was able to take care of cheaply (least expensive being the .80¢ repair to the drivers door the fix the switch the previous owners had disconnected, I had to have it because stupid me leaves the lights on and I had been jumped 3 times)

    Now the ac isn't blowing cold and I am wondering if I can use a recharge kit from autozone to fix it? I don't know what type of refrigerant it has? Any thoughts?
  • ramjitramjit Member Posts: 1
    I had that problem and it turned out to be a broken piece in the upper intake ( the black piece that you see as soon as you open the hood)you could replace it yourself for about $200 to 300. you have to get it from the dealer.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    I paid $600 for my 1995 Windstar. Then I turned around and spent $2100 to rebuild the trans with custom (non Ford) parts. Have a 3 year warranty on it so it's not all bad. Rear wiper doesn't work. Previous owner said it quit working after it went through a car wash. You can hear the motor working, though. All doors are fine but also had to replace a fuel injector, plug wires, coil pack, and computer. Not too bad yet. Sway bar is busted but it's an easy fix and the junk yard has one for $45. Engine was rebuilt 2 months before I bought it.
    As for the AC. I recharged mine and it blows 47 degree air. You can go to Auto Zone to pick up the R134a and a filler hose. I recommend one with a guage. You shouldn't put more than 2 cans in unless it's bone dry. Walmart also has the stuff for cheaper than auto zone.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    It does need to relearn but that shouldn't take long. 3 drive cycles should do it. Bring the van up to 60 and then drop it to 40. Do that 3 times and it should be fine. If not then you may have a bad computer.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Member Posts: 61
    Mine did the same thing. You can pick up an injector at Auto Zone for $32. Easy to replace.
    However, the injector didn't fix the problem. I replaced the computer and it was fixed. 3 weeks later it did the same thing and said misfire #4. I drove it for another week and it stopped. I'm thinking another bad computer but I could be wrong.
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