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Ford Windstar Problems
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Comments
I have a 2000 Windstar SEL that has recently run into Brake problems. I don't know exactly what symptoms you are having but mine started with a little brake fluid on the garage floor followed by the brake light coming on EVERY time we stepped on the brake. I took it to my Uncle's repair shop where they replaced a switch that is right below the Master Cylinder due to a leak. He ordered the part from Ford ($20.00) where the delivery driver from Ford indicated that he is delivering about 20 of these per day; which indicates that there is almost certain to be a recall on this part soon...so save your receipts and the bad part for reimbursement.
Thanks!
Any ideas on what may cause this problem?
I have a 2000 windstar LX and Mine just did the EXACT SAME THING. Were you not able to control the rear blower? In my van, the Rear AIR blows air, not cooled air. I have to reach over the passengers side sliding door and tun off the blower. It is not able to be controlled from the front.
Can you tell me what relay you replaced?
Mine has just come back from the FORD dealer where I had them look at the Cruise Control (Amongst other things)Funny Huh. It was going to be a $350 fix. Needed a Speed servo and a couple of other things. :-) I told them nah for now. But surprising that you had the exact smae problem.
brad
Thanks for the input.
Has anyone mounted a heavy duty hitch on their own & did you have two or three bolt holes on each side of the rear frame ?
Did you have any slots on the frame to put the boles through ???
If I need to drill & cut a few slots , will it cause a proble with the frame ??
I was wondering if the Winstar came with all the holes and slots from the factory ?
We have the big six engine A/T with O/D
Any help or pictures of your rear frame & hitch installation would be greatly appreciated .
THANK YOU
It's worse when the weather is warm and when it gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press.
Could this be the master cylinder?
When the van is running, everything operates normally. When I remove the key, all the accessories stay on and the headlights and heater fan turn on even though the switches are off. I've swapped all the relays, swapped out the ignition switch and just replaced the front electronic control module (the one on the inside firewall by the fuse panel). The problem is still there. Anyone have any suggestions before I give in and take it to Ford?
The problem sounds a little dangerous because if you happen to be working on it and the fan comes on you could get seriously hurt by it. Try complaining to Ford and NHTSA at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
Thanks,
Danielle
Ken
Thanks
When I turn the key into the ON position, whether the car is running or not, the following stops working:
instrument panel backlights
the following things never work:
instruments on the panel (odometer, tachometer, speedometer, all guages)
"dummy" lights/indicators
radio
AC/heater fan/blower
power windows
and turn signals
The following things still work:
power door locks
interior lights
hazard signals
cruise control
alert chime (to tell me if door is open, keys are left in ignition, or headlights have been left on)
air conditioner and heater (in that if I put my hand to the vent, I can feel coolness or heat but it's not blowing out)
What is unusual is that occasionally, when I turn the van off, certain accessories begin to work again. These are the accessories that the car provides residual power to once the key is off before the door is opened:
power windows
radio
Also, when the key is in the off position and the headlights are on, I always have instrument panel lights.
Does this sound like an ignition switch issue?
Another problem that is likely unrelated is that the windshield wipers don't work and haven't for some time. They don't have power at the wiper motor, but we've not been able to figure out where the power break is because the car doesn't match any of the three or four schmematics we've referred to for the car. Like I said, I don't think it's related, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!!!!
Thanks
Sammy
2425, and 2448 are applicable???? I have 147,000 miles on a 1998 Canadian market WS. Believe it or not, the only problem was at 99,262 when the alternator and the driver's side guide for the window broke. It ain't moving until I take it to my my mechanic :sick:
Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Courtjester
One thing I did notice, I hear a single click sound, just before the gauges start working. Sounds maybe like a relay engaging.
Can anyone give me some instructions on how to remove the Instrument Cluster?
Is there a specific connector I should check to see if it's loose?
If it's not a loose connector, is it most likely the cluster or a sending unit?
If it turns out the cluster is broke, there are places on the web that say they can repair it for under $200, should I got that route?
Any other hints.
Thanks.....
RE:instrument cluster, get a manual. I replaced a light in my non-digital without one= 4 hours of frustation but I got it in. The light was in the middle of the speedometer!!!!
The squealing-whistling noise comes from the driver's side
of the instrument cluster inside the car. Front brakes and rotors changed around 120,000 miles. I did notice that the parking brake light came on about 3 times while I was driving it on the 3rd. But didn't think anything of it.
I bought it in Dearborn MI in early 1999 with about 15,000 miles on it. For the past 7 years it has served me well.
If you buy one get it with the dual heat and air From the winters of Detroit to the hot,hot weather of Oklahoma it has served me well (147,000 miles now)
Thanks
wojo2
Well I am one of the lucky ones to own a Windstar. I wouldn't know where to start with the problems it has or has had.
Right now it is a coupe. The only doors that work are the 2 front. The side doors weld broke a few months ago and the trunk latch broke on me a couple days ago. But this is the least of my problems right now.
Yesterday I drove it and it was running fine. This morning I woke up got it in and noticed it was not running smooth. There was some blue colored exhaust coming out and it was stinking. Quickly shut it off. Check the oil. That was fine. But noticed the oil smelled of gas. Then went and checked the liquid dripping out of the exhaust and that also smells of gas.
Talked to a few people and was told it is probably a bad fuel injector. My hubby and I decided to start tackling taking some things apart to get to the injectors. But at this point tonight we are about to take a crowbar to the thing. What a pain to get to anything.
My question is, before we go any further, has anyone had this same problem with the gas smell in the oil and exhaust? If so, was one of the injectors the problem?
Thanks for any help,
Michelle
Good luck,
Melissa :sick:
The check engine light is flashing. I am trying to decide if I just want to junk this thing now or not. I was hoping it would hold out a couple more months and then I was going to look for something newer and definetly different.
I told my hubby that I want to go buy a big truck with big tires and just run over the thing every time I pull in my driveway and park on it.
I swear this van has been broken down in my driveway more in the last year than I have driven it. I bought it from my sister in law 2 years ago with 79,000 miles on it and I just turned 100,000 with it. And yes the engine was replaced at about 43,000 miles.
I will list the problems this van has had, just incase it might help someone else.
*Engine replaced at 43,000
*Light always on and dinging showing a door open. And because it thought a door was open the ceiling light wouldn't go off. Had to take the bulb out because it was getting so hot it looked like it was about to catch on fire.
*ABS light has been on for the last year or more
*Can't use side sliding door, because the weld broke and door is about to fall off.
*Door latch broke for truck so I have no way to open it
*Went through a few sets of spark plug wires because the ones I was first getting weren't strong enough and caused the van to run rough.
*Passenger side sway bar broke
*Both wheel cylinders and brake lines had to be replaced. One side about 8 months ago and the other side 2 weeks ago.
*Just had to replace the starter wires a couple weeks ago.
I am sure there is probably more, but I am getting too depressed thinking about it. Luckily I have manual windows and locks otherwise I would probably have problems with them.
Well I guess I will sleep on it tonight and figure out tomorrow if we are going to try and fix it ourselves or just go look for something different now.
Michelle
Thanks for any help
WOW, I think we own a mirror image of each others van!!!
1. Engine replaced at 60,000 miles
2. Had problem with door ajar issues and it was a conector on the sliding door. (I think it was a recall item)
3. ABS light on for longer than I can remember. It's a ground wire issue that takes a $10 kit to fix and an hour of labor. It doesn't affect the functionality of the van.
4. I think I'm going to check on my spark plug wires now.....
5. Drivers side sway bar broke a year ago.
Ignition coil, wires, plugs, computer, fuel injectors all had to be replaced 3 months ago.
6. Transmission rebuilt at 43,000 miles, 75,000 miles, and 130,000 miles
7.Rear wiper hasn't worked in a long time.
8. Brakes wear quickly
Starter, alternator and wiring replaced
9. both inner tie rod endsreplaced twice now.
10. Keyless entry system doesn't always work properly.
Yeah, I feel some depression coming on.........
Good luck with whatever decission you make. If you go for another vehicle make sure it's anything but a Ford. The Caravans are nice and the only issue with those that I've had (owned 2 previously) were cooling system issues. The front fan motor and relay tend to go bad but are easy and cheap to replace.
Melissa
This all happend at once, i shut it off one day it was fine, the next day i started it and had all these things go wrong at once! The tack and engine temp and gas gauge work fine.
So im puzzled... can you help me?
Thanks.
Mike
I have enjoyed reading the various posts on here as I too have experienced SEVERAL of the same problems-transmission, interior lights staying on, service engine light staying on, transmission "clunks", passenger window not functional, etc.
My trans went out while we were vacationing at the coast 2 years ago and we had to have new trans put in while we continued our vacation w/ a rental car. We picked up the van on our way home and didn't get 50 miles down the road before the overdrive light on the gear shift started to blink and the RPMs shot way up. When we contacted the Ford dealership that installed the new trans we were told it had nothing to do w/ what they did! To this day the light continues to come on after driving it about 20mi and it seems to switch back and forth between manual and overdrive.We refuse to put anymore $ into this pile of
#%*@ because we are hoping to get a new car soon!
Any help w/ the above AC problem would be appreciated as living in Texas, having AC is a MUST!!
Brad
thanks