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Thanks
Leon
I have a 98 passat gls, I bought it used, and im starting to have some very weird electrical problems.
The lock and unlock only work occasionally, the driver side is usually the one doesnt work.( and yes i said usually, but it any time it could be any door) Then its the weirdest thing,all four windows just roll down by themselves??? I cant explain it? Ive tried to just lock and unlock manually but the driver side lock just keeps turning and turning? Dont know if thats related or a completely different issue all 2gether?
The other question i had, is when im driving the locks just go up and down and the hazard lights flash a couple of times. There doesnt seem to be any method to the madness,its all just completely random. Im just a little taking back by my cars recent behavior????
I would really like to get these problems figured out without dumping alot of money into the VW dealerships series of test.....
If you have any ideas please let me know, im open for anything about now.
Thank you
When I bought it the electric door lock on the Pas door was messed up and you could not open the door. My son opened it and disconnected the lock from the device. #2- When you put on brakes the Turn signal indicators glow and the blinking quits with right or left signals. They glow when you use the brakes lights on or off. More with lights on.
#3 I have no way of knowing which fuse will disconnect the power locks.
so a week ago from today someone broke my right front passenger side window to steal a worthless nonworking radar detector-
my insurance sent me to get my new window at a safelite bodyshop which i did yesterday afternoon, i gave the shop my car in perfectly fine condition what happened next is a huge puzzle
1. my alarm wont disarm itself and my car wont start
2. when i open my driver door my hood pops open
3. a "click" noise occurs inside the car as if the blinker was on but it goes to the same tone or tune as the little red alarm light (which wont shutoff)
3. the alarm light is on while the door is open and it goes crazy
4. the alarm light is off while the door is shut
5. non of my lights turn on when i open the doors
6. when you turn the key to lock the car- the car locks but doesnt make that final "beep"
6. the guy that changed my glass claims the only electrical he touched was by the door where he needed to set up the automatic window opener again.
and some maybe helpful information may be that- my actual alarm remote control have batteries that i got 5 months ago but that simply wont get the alarm to work with the touch of a button so i have gotten used to arming and disarming my car by turning the key either way and have not used the remote in a long time- - however when the guy said he went to go unlock my car he used the remote and said nothing happened so he unlocked it manually and that the lock opened but the driver side door wouldn't??
idk if maybe he pressed a button that triggered something else or what but not 1 dealership has any idea what the problem could be and insurance says i have to prove that they ruined my electrical and if i cant prove it then all the repairs are on me..
somebody please help me
my e-mail is Seburb27@yahoo.com or i will check this page constantly
Thanks,
Devin
passat microswitch alarm
You'll find some help there.
After I found the problem I discovered a couple of websites with helpful info:
http://www.headfuzz.co.uk/?q=vw_ccm
http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm
The first one was basically the exact problem I had except the damage on that site was much worse than mine.
The second site helped me trace the cause of my leak. The main source of my leak centered around the ignition box located on the drivers side of the firewall. A water channel runs directly beneath this box. Unfortunately the clearance between the box and the water channel is very small. Some debris got lodged in this area and essentially dammed up that channel. With no other place to go, the water found its way into the car via a whole in the firewall which allows wires from the box pass into the vehicles interior.
Long story short...I had to clean that area out well; remove the rear seat, center console and door sill covers so I could expose as much of the floor boards as possible so I could dry out the car. (Both sides of the car had about 3/4 inch of standing water. Unfortunately the Passat is designed with a large gap between the carpet and the actual floor board, thus making a wet floor board undetectable from the capet.) After thoroughly drying out the carpet and floor boards for a few days I reassembled the interior and haven't had a problem with the alarm since.
Sorry for going on and on, but hopefully this helps someone else. All in all I would have to say that once I rid myself of this car I will never own another VW. :lemon:
If you need a ABS controller you might want to look at this site for an ABS controller rebuild. http://www.autoecu.com/ I had them rebuild my ABS controller for my 2001 Passat 2.5 years ago. It cost $250 plus return shipping. They pay for shipping to their facility. I had it back in 3 days and it has performed flawlessly since. They even guarantee it for 3 years.
Jim
I was also considering getting new tires, balanced and aligned, although my tread doesn't appear to be too low. I've heard that on all-wheel drive cars, if your tires are out of alignment, it tends to throw off the abs performance. Do you think this would be a waste of money? I just bought the Passat in July, and have only driven it for 4,000 miles, and the tires don't look too terribly worn.
When I had the ABS controller on my Volvo replaced it had to be off the road. I did my own ABS controller on my Passat but I had the Volvo garage do that one. If you plan to do it yourself I would suggest researching if the car can be driven without the controller in it.
Good luck.
Jim
:shades:
I have been reading posts, and trying not to be redundant in my own post, but... I think I may have CCM problem but not sure, have tried to diagnose/fix but now I'm stuck: 2000 VW Passat, 71K, automatic trasmission
History: Big rain storms 1 week ago. Found 1/4 inch standing water drivers side (you see where this is going). Wet corner near drivers side of sunroof, and flooded sun roof gutters, suggested that water leaked in through sunroof and came down column near rear view mirror and onto floor. Car seemed otherwise fine. Has worked fine for a week, including being driven long and short distances, and multiple errands (on/off/on/off with electrical, engine, etc).
Symptoms: Last night left work, remote key did not work to open car. Opened with key manually. Found that the following did not work: dome lights, trunk release, sun roof, windows, unless they were lowered/raised by using the key in the door, and car would not turn on. The headlights and radio did work. Needless to say jump start did not work. Had car towed home, as was 9pm and did not have mechanic to drop it off at (long story). Found that key batteries dead too (tested w/ volt meter); replaced batteries in case alarm was preventing car from working, didn't help, but needed to be done anyway.
Plan: Mechanic friend came last night and tested battery and all fuses, all checked out normal. Not much else he could do at midnight and not in his shop. Today, after talking to 3 mechanics, determined that CCM most likely problem. Pulled up carpet, located CCM, removed. Condensation found around cable bundles/under carpet and insulation, which are still very damp. No condensation inside box, opened CCM, no evidence of moisture in there. Put heater in car to dry, left CCM open (but covered to avoid dust collection) for several hours. Carpet dry on top, still damp underneath of course. Plugged CCM back in, checked all plugs near where those cable bundles go into car on left, below fuses, to make sure dry and not loose.
Status: ARRGGH! Still won't work! My CCM did not seem wet. Is it possible it's done for anyway? Or is the problem most likely elsewhere? Any ideas for my next steps?
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Any chance I can "fix" the problem myself (or my husband, who is mechanically inclined)?
Thanks.
350 N Main St
Brooklyn, IN 46111
Phone: (317) 831-2627
They have a large selection of Volkswagens
1st Problem: The #14 Fuse has blown now 3 times in the last 6 months and I don't know why. It seems to happen whenever I use my key fob to either open the trunk or unlock all the doors. The car will not start when that fuse is blown. Has this happened to anyone else and if so what did you do to fix the problem?
2nd Problem: My radio will not turn off even after the car has been shut off and the key removed from the ignition. I don't know if it stems from maybe having a wrong fuse somewhere or if it is something unrelated to the fuses at all. Has this happed to anyone else out there and if so how did you fix the problem?
3rd Question: Is there some where I can go to figure out the proper amp fuse needed for each location. I want to make sure I am not using to high or to low of a fuse. Thank you for your help in advance.
Fuse 14 is the comfort system. You probably have a short in it somewhere. One thing I would attempt to rule out is water intrusion in the passenger compartment, on the driver's side. The Comfort Control Module (CCM) is located on the floor under the driver's seat in a box.
See if the carpeting under the driver's side feels damp. Also, check under the hood in the cowling for the recent presence of water.
Is there no common -- magic bullet-like -- knowledge out there for fixing these terrible electrical problems in driver's door (or not) on these wonderful cars? I am now reduced to disconnecting or trickle charging the battery at night, and driving the car with all of these electrical (Maxwell's?) demons still running around....Help!
You cannot imagine my elation at solving this riddle. (or how strangely powerful this makes me feel...)
I saw a post on some other site indicating a fix to the dreaded HomeLink - Dead Steering Wheel controls - fuse 5 issue.
It happens because the wires coming out of the sun visor stalk get smushed and the housings get torn after repeated use (or bad install i'd guess) This causes a short. This short blows fuse 5 and kills all it's accouterments (steering wheel radio controls, cruise control, homelink, horn).
So, you'll need:
a very small flat head screwdriver (like to fix glasses)
a medium sized phillips head screwdriver
some electrical tape
a six pack of good beer to celebrate with
Where the driver's sun visor base connects to the ceiling is a small (8mm) circular disc. Pry it off with your tiny flat head. This hides the medium sized phillips screw that connects the visor base to the body of the car. When you have that screw out, the base of the visor will sort of hinge out of the ceiling (not enough to help though). You'll need to carefully work this thing out of the ceiling - it's about an inch long (don't pull on the visor because you'll break something) pull and rock the base out of the ceiling, it takes a bit to do this.
Eventually the whole thing will hinge out and pull out of the ceiling. There is a wire connection now visible between your visor (in your hand) and the wires coming out of the ceiling. Disconnect this.
Put a new 10A fuse in socket 5. Turn the key and see if it doesn't blow.
I was stunned. It worked for me. Obviously, there may be additional reasons for fuse 5 blowing, but this was mine.
Now you can re-wrap the wires coming out of the visor base with the electrical tape. (at least this was where mine were rubbed raw)
Reconnect the wire connection, shove it back into the ceiling. Put the visor base back in place, replace the screw you took out. Replace the little plastic disc.
You're done.
Took me 15 minutes, and I'm on beer 4. The wife's wondering why I keep yelling "WHOOP!" at the top of my lungs.
I really hope this helps somebody out there.
(my remote alarm ;stock: stopped working 2 months prior to this- batteries were new)
on dec. 25th 07 someone broke my passengers side window (while alarm was "activated maually"and stole my GPS
it was fairly nice that week except for a small rain shower and i never put a bag over my window.. 3 days later i got a new window put in....
-after the window place- my car failed to start
-the guys nor I had any idea what happend??
-when i unlocked the drivers door manually the trunk popped open (only happened that 1 day a few times)
-the alarm light started flickering continuosly and making a little 'click' noise (still happens- very annoying)
-my dash lights still work perfectly but my interior lights wont turn on and niether will the visor lights.. they dont turn on at all not even when my doors are opened..(this didnt happen until AFTER i got my window replaced. (car ran fine with broken window)
-my sunroof never works and occasionally opens by itself while im driving.. (always opens up moonroof style.. doesnt slide back)
*within the last 3 weeks
- my blinkers have completely stopped blinking.. front, side, and rear
- altough when i turn my key they blink the first time but wont repeat it unless i pull the key out and do it again
- car also stopped making that 'beep' noise when i turn the key to lock it
- my automatic lights stopped working (im using my fog lights on bright at night)
-ive also noticed my heater isnt as strong as it used to be
-ive also noticed i need to give the car alot more gas than usuall for it to jump past 40, 60, and 80 mph (the rev goes up)
*some1 please help me .. post here, reply to me, or e-mail me at Seburb27@yahoo.com
*im an 18 year old isenior in highschool so moneys low
1) some of the symptoms sound like the CCM (comfort control module) is wet. It's under the driver's side front carpet, between the floor mat pegs and the reinforced section of the carpet. I'd check to see if it's wet. Check all four footwells carefully (pull out the mats) and see if the carpet is wet/damp in any of them.
2) some of the symptoms sound like the microswitch in the door is either not connected, has gone bad, or has a poor connection. Given your circumstances, I'd start looking at the door with the replaced glass.
3) about the heater - not as strong as in it's not as hot, or as in not blowing the same amount of air? Could be the heater core is clogging up. Is the difference between when the window incident occurred and afterward, or are we talking abo9ut a longer period of time?
4) engine power down - I dunno without more info. Is the car a manual 5 speed or tiptronic autobox?
also as for the door microswitch... how should i go about fixing that problem?
the heater is just not as strong as it used to be... i remember when i first got it i used to sweat because it would get so hot so quickly... now i have to hold my hands up to the heater my entire car ride to school on full blast.. and its just warm
(i always wwarm up the car for atleast 5 minutes before driving it)
and its an automatic with tiptronic.... altough the tiptronic stopped working about 6 months ago due to "magnet malfunctions" according to my machanic....(never tried fixing it because he told me it would not affect my driving or the car at all
You are going to need to read more on the web about those microswitches. I have not had a problem like yours so I've never had to work on them. Sorry.
I"m still guessing about that the heater core is obstructed assuming, of course, that your coolant is of the correct type and at the proper level. Google (and I'm not kidding) "I ain't got no heat blues". You might find instructions for flushing the core by doing so.
BTW, IMHO you are just wasting gas letting the car warm up for five minutes. Even in single digit temps, VW recommends the "start it and drive it easy" approach.
What you might want to do is go to an Advance or AutoZone store and borrow their free OBDII reader and see what codes, if any, you can pull from the car.